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Guest slntsam

Help With Oranda - White Swollen Area

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Guest slntsam

[*]Test Results for the Following:

[4ppm]Ammonia Level?

[0ppm]Nitrite Level?

[0.5ppm]Nitrate level?

[8.0]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[-]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[API strips for everything but ammonia for which I used API drops]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

[74F]Water temperature?

[10gallon, about two weeks]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

[s15]What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?

[weekly 20%]How often do you change the water and how much?

[Changed 2 days ago, 20%]how many days ago was the last water change and how much?

[2 small oranda]How many fish in the tank and their size?

[seachem stability added today, water conditioner (dechrolinator added to start and during changes]What kind of water additives or conditioners?

[pellets and peas once]What do you feed your fish and how often?

[both fish are new]Any new fish added to the tank?

[no]Any medications added to the tank?

[yes, the "healthy" one looks like he has ich, this new]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

[sick one floats at top, struggles to get to bottom of tank, is now lethargic]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

Hello,

We recently (3 weeks) brought home an aquarium setup and two goldfish. Not really knowing anything at first, I've slowly become familiar with cycling and general fish care. I plan to move these fish to a larger tank as I've also realized that this tank is probably too small for them.

Having said that, one of our goldfish has recently fallen ill and I'm not 100% sure what it is and how to treat it. About 4-5 days ago we noticed that he lost control of his bouyancy and floats upright, near the top. It seems to have gotten a bit worse as when he's at the bottom and stops swimming, he gets to the top faster than before.

It was only then that we learned about soaking pellets before feeding them and about frozen peas, he's has course thawed and skinned frozen peas and we only feed them every other day right now until the tank is stabilized.

There are two fish.

Fish #1 is an orange Oranda and he swims happily, feeds happily and seemed to be problem free. Today I noticed that he was white spots which I've gathered is Ich.

Fish #2 is a black Oranda and he:

- Floats to the top

- Is lethargic, probably because he has to try so hard to get to the bottom of the tank.

- Still eats and wants to eat

- Has white patches on his fins

- developed a white patch on his face

- Looks like he has a growth at the side of his head that wasn't there before, some kind of swelling

- The eye on the same side of the swelling is now cloudy.

I think that's all the info I have, please feel free to ask questions.

Below are the pictures I've taken. Additional pictures of the same fish can be found here: http://www.kcphoto.ca/Life/Nature/Sick-Fish/17675173_8QKmQL

The ailment is on his left side.

IMG3547-L.jpg

IMG3558-L.jpg

IMG3557-L.jpg

IMG3570-L.jpg

IMG3534-L.jpg

Edited by slntsam

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Please do a HUGE 90-100% water change right away. With your pH, ammonia of 4 is extremely toxic.

We can talk about the rest later

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Guest slntsam

Will do, I'll re-post numbers after that.

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You already got the best advice that can be given at this stage, but I wanted to add that when you recheck the water parameters, ammonia should be below 0.25 (to be bearable for your fish). If not, it's best to immediately do another water change to make up for the difference. If you then keep tabs on the water parameters, and do the needed water changes to keep ammonia below 0.25, then the water quality will allow the fish to recuperate a bit and allow us to see what we can do further to help them get better :).

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Yup exactly. You will probably have to do daily water changes to keep ammonia under 0.25. It is very important because of your high pH.

The good water should already clear the cloudy eye. Both fish should perk up and generally look happier.

Can we also see pics of what you think could be ich?

The only thing we must keep a close eye on is the swollen gill cover. But clean water will help that too. Remember to always keep pH and temp stable - especially important for larger water changes.

Keep the water good, and we should already see good improvements in a few days :)

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Keep the water good, and we should already see good improvements in a few days :)

Exactly ^_^. Typically, the main part of keeping your goldfish healthy involves keeping your water healthy :).

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Guest slntsam

I did the change, 85-90% of the water was changed.

[*]Test Results for the Following:

[0.25ppm]Ammonia Level?

[0ppm]Nitrite Level?

[0.0ppm]Nitrate level?

[Ph = 7.5 / GH = 180ppm / KH = 180ppm]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[-]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[API strips for everything but ammonia for which I used API drops]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

[80F]Water temperature?

[10gallon, about two weeks]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

[s15]What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?

[weekly 20%]How often do you change the water and how much?

[Changed 30 minutes ago, 85-90%]how many days ago was the last water change and how much?

[2 small oranda]How many fish in the tank and their size?

[seachem stability added today, water conditioner (dechrolinator added to start and during changes]What kind of water additives or conditioners?

[pellets and peas once]What do you feed your fish and how often?

[both fish are new]Any new fish added to the tank?

[no]Any medications added to the tank?

[yes, the "healthy" one looks like he has ich, this new]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

[sick one floats at top, struggles to get to bottom of tank, is now lethargic]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

The both of them, even the active one, seem more active than before.

Here's what I did.

- Changed 85-90% of water using gravel vac to remove water and waste from water

- Added seachem Stability again

- Added water conditioner (into the bucket, not to the tank. I don't know if that makes a difference)

Should I add some aquarium salt at this point? I have some but figure I'd ask here first.

The other fish, the one I suspect has Ich looks like this

IMG3518-XL.jpg

IMG3519-XL.jpg

There are white spots on him that weren't there before. Will the water change / aquarium salt get rid of this over time or does he need the Ich meds?

Also, now that I've removed so much of the water, won't my tank have to re-cycle causing another amonia spike?

Thank again for your help, it's very much appreciated.

Edited by slntsam

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Good. :)

You will probably have to redo one tomorrow morning or later tonight.

How pretty your oranda. I am not sure I see itch. Can you take a side picture? Do they look like grains?

What you can see in the oranda are the red veins in the tail - this is also caused by the bad water. When they fade is a good sign of good water :)

No water changes don't affect cycling as most of the bacteria will be growing in your filter.

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is it only that cluster? ich usually starts from the fins - or at least how I have seen it.

let's see what other members think.

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Guest slntsam

Yes, that is the only cluster I've noticed.

I just noticed him bouncing off the gravel as well. not sure if he's scratching or just having fun.

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Guest slntsam

Ammonia went to 1ppm. So I changed the water (30%) and it's now somewhere between 0 and 0.25ppm.

I didn't feed them today. I'll test and feed tomorrow and then test again after work.

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good job!

How big are the fish? Ten gal is a little too small - which is also why you are seeing it get polluted so fast. Usually 2 fantails need at least 20-30Gals. But if they are smaller sized they can still stay a few months in there is you keep a close eye on the water parameters.

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Guest slntsam

the fish are small so at the moment they have lots of room. I plan to move them soon though. I'd just like to get this tank stabilized and everything working before moving on.

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Guest slntsam

So it was Ick. I used API super Ick cure and he's way better. I've never seen him use his dorsal fin but now he's using it. The swollen area is much better. not completely healed but much much better. White areas are gone and the eye is clear.

Now I just wish my tank would cycle!

Thanks again.

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It's not necessarily ich, since super Ich cure OS malachite green oxalate, which will kill a lot of things, including your cycle. Nevertheless, I'm glad the fish is better :)

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