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2601angela

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One of the basic failures in many systems, especially for newbies (obviously because of lack of experience) intended for diseasae control is the lack of prep work - the thinking process - before placing the order for equiptment.

An example: at some point you are going to run into a disease problem. What is thye first thing most antibac. products- or fungus - tend to suggest you do? Take out the activated carbon. Two reasons primarily -

Most products are cleaned out of the water by the activity of the carbon in the filter - The other - and almost never mentioned - is that some treatments actually replace the bound toxins in the carbon - releasing the toxins back into the water - this reaction does take place with some products. But say you have just cleaned your filter and now you have to open it up again and remove the carbon - AHHHHH! Especially those that still use mioxes of carbon and zeolite.

Prethink and resolve the problem at the beginning - with some added benifits.

For about $90-100 more in setup cost; obtain:

1. Lifeguard - or similar - modular filter with media capability and replacable z style filter.

2. One Quietone pump.

3. intake and outlet line accessories

Here is the rationale. If you ever need to remove the carbon in the system - you unplug the waterpump - unscrew the top of the modular filter - pull out the carbon bag - screw the top back on - plug the pump back in - The chemical canister filter contains the zeolite, resins, etc that - normally, do not need to be removed from the water path. There is almost no mess in this removal or place back in process.

There is another side benifit. Most persons that buy UV inline lites fail to recognize an operation delimina - Many simply place their UV in the line with the canister filter and thats it. Well; in most instances - you have done nothing to benifit your fish or your wallet.

Most canisters put out - on average - 200 - 250 gph. This is especially required for 28 gallon and above- generally speaking.

At this very brief exposure - high flow rate - to the UV - most have little or no effect on anything but algae.

My smartlite - $300 as it was - will not - basically - be at any steralization consequence unless the flow rate is around 70 gph. I like bug free water LOL

You may say - God forbid - - well just turn down the flow on the canister - I pray you did not ask that question or make that statement on a 28 or 55 gallon tank.

The lifeguard setup is perfect for lower flow outputs - dircected thru the UV filter - while getting the benifits of 5 micron paper filtration and the carbon activity. I use a Quietone 1200; and on the output, to the lifeguard module ,I engineered a plastic flow control valve to keep flow levels; allowing the exposure time for the UV filter to be in the "SEEK< KILL< DESTROY" flow rates required by the manufacturer. This valve allows opening of the canister with no water pouring out of the top.

At the same time - your canisters flow rate - containing the important Zeolite absorption materials for the heavy toxins - is unaffected and stays at hiogh flow rates.

For newbies - think of your design - draw it out - understand what flow rates mean and their importance in enabling the expensive toys we buy - for our aquaspuppies - to do the job as claimed....

May you r aquapuppies have cleaner water than you get from your tap!!!!!

In memory of Thurston.....

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When Lovie and Thurston were spawning for - both of them - it was a first - I check for two things - especially if the fish have never done this before - you know - the sperm and egg process.

1. I carefully check to see that the female is freely able to release her eggs and not experiencing any type of impaction or other problems.

2. gently - and very briefly - check to determine the males ability to release when it comes his turn -

I assume you saw the spawning video - in the breeding forum - that i added last week. I could not have asked for a better male - not overly stressing her out but - at the same time - knew exactly what to do and when - and when to rest beside her when she needed quiet time - it was facinating.

Well - I discovered that - on Thurston's check - there was nothing releasing - This was rare and worrisome.

The day she released Thurston was the best attending father - prodding her to keep moving so as to shake out all the release - and sitting over her like the protective prince - but he did not release.

There is no vet in the area and I am not trained for that type of delicate procedure; attempt to clear the blockage - well - sure enough in two days he started to get bloaty - and withing 24 hours he encountered a rupture - and I had to make a decision to put him to rest.

I have heard this happening but never experienced it.

In the rare cases I loose an aquapuppy it is the result of the strangest events - no disease or like that - just unusual acts of nature.

During his final hour - it was obvious that Lovie was upset - I do not believe I have ever seen her attentive to him like she was - It was always the opposite

in him caring for her -

I am preparing a quarantine tank and going to get a new aquapuppy- we shall see how she reacts to a new tank mate in 4 weeks or so.

Right now she comes out to eat - then sticks herself back in the bushes - little or no movement - this has affected her....

Eric

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Yes, Eric, I saw that video. I am SO SORRY about Thurston! :cry1 I know how much you loved him! He was so sweet and attentive to Lovie. Bless his heart, may he rest in peace and happiness. Eric, my heart goes out to you and I know this must hurt you a lot. I only hope that you feel better soon and Lovie, too. I almost feel like I knew Thurston, as many pics and videos I have seen of him. :( I hope you have better luck with your new fish. Keep us posted...

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Yes, Eric, I saw that video. I am SO SORRY about Thurston! :cry1 I know how much you loved him! He was so sweet and attentive to Lovie. Bless his heart, may he rest in peace and happiness. Eric, my heart goes out to you and I know this must hurt you a lot. I only hope that you feel better soon and Lovie, too. I almost feel like I knew Thurston, as many pics and videos I have seen of him. :( I hope you have better luck with your new fish. Keep us posted...

Thank you - Although I have 7 tanks ranging from 28 to 55 gallon - you always find - at least I do - the pair that you become attached to - especially these two - ever since they were places alone in a breeding tank -0 it was just such a remarkable union of the two -

I do not love the others less - just their ability to interact and his restraint at not being overly aggressive - which has happened to other pairings in the past - made the union of these two a daily treat to witness -

Thank you for your kind words....

Eric

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I am sorry about THurston...... :(

As far as the cannisters...... yes - it is not wise to always run with carbon in a filter. It has such a short life that it is not really worth keeping in a filter/cannister for "everyday" concerns - instead it is best added if and only if you wish to specifically use it to bind something from the water. Then it is best removed.

BUT, I do question a couple of your statements......concerning the use of Zeolite in your filter. Zeolite is a very efficiant ammonia binder...... It will bind ammonia in a fashion that does NOT leave it available for any beneficial bacteria to process..... if effect - any ammonia bound in such a fashion is "gone"........

It is perfectly acceptable to run a tank with Zeolite. I commonly do so, when "holding" fish for a short time/quarantine tanks, etc , where I do not want to bother with a cycled filter. But realize - Zeolite and a nitrogen cycle using the types of beneficial bacteria we typically talk about here on Koko's do not mix! Zeolite will bind the ammonia before the BB has chance to process it..... and without "food", the BB will die. A zeolite based filter and a nitrogen cycle based filter are not compatible within the same unit......

Because Zeolite releases ALL the ammonia it has bound when exposed to salt, it is alao not a filter/tank that can ever be treated with salt. Zeolite can release up to 8ppm ammonia within a matter of moments - killing fish, when salt is added.....

Most Zeolite filters need to be recharged (cleaned with salt so they are capable of binding more ammonia) every few days to a week. If you have it "hiding" in your cannister filter, you need to make a specific effort to remember to remove and recharge that zeolite on a very regular basis - otherwise, when it "fills up" you may find that the ammonia will climb to amazing levels overnight! In my experience, people do not service their cannisters nearly often enough, even when running a nitrogen cycle with them...... a Zeolite based tank needs.... demands..... regular attention.

As far as UV lamps - you are correct - most filters do more gph than is normally suggested for good kill under a UV. But it is not difficult to split the output of a cannister filter - running part of the outflow through the UV and the other directly into the tank. A simple additon of a valve allows you to self adjust the UV flow - for use with algae or parasites or bacteria - your choice of dwell time. IT is even simpler to simply buy a water pump of the gph flow rate you wish for the UV - and plumb it directly into the UV - skipping the filter altogether.

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Well ya caught me - normally by the time I am done detailing things I am on reply page 3 - I cut some corners - Three factors exist for all 7 tanks;

1. A 3 basket Eheim pro wet dry filter is on each tank. The sort of public housing for the BB. One of the reasons that Eheim discourages pre-filters or filter padding in wet/dry is to allow a certain amount of waste particles to accumulate within the filter body - thus giving them a source on the dry days LOL-

The chemical filtration Eheim - also on each tank - stands guard to protect against that ever pending spike that one day may occur - I was using Zeolite in the broader sense -0 recognizing that resins - and other absorption media are used.

My rationale for the Lifeguard filter fulfills a number of issues and objectives-

1. It is a heck of a lot easier to quickly unscrew and screw the lifeguard to pull the carbon bag out then to tear down the 3 basket canisters

2. The 5-10 micron pad filtration assists my specialized feeding parameters - as described in past replies - my food is a daily - partial crush of variety - presoaked - resulkting in a paste - like material - allowing a multitude of sink- float foods to be used where - normally - would not be considered - as well garlic - soluble vitimans - etc - - I believe it has been a signifigant factor in reduction of bottoms - up - and internal bacterial problems - not to mention great control of the constipation. But as I am sure you are aware - golds - all of them - tend to sort, sift whatever - so there is a slight increase in the soluble particles after feeding - allowing the Lifeguard in the process cleans up this residue - of which - as you know - can be another sourceof breakdown toxins. As well; it signifigantly reduces the residue that - over time accumulated during the filtering process in the canisters - that being the Lifeguard filters are cleanable and reusable.

3. By incorporating the Lifeguard into the line prior to the UV - it has virtually eliminated any accumulation of residue or algae deposits - yes even on the UV glass - that used to occur - resulting in less cleaning and breakdown time. The smartlite long tubular type - as mine is - is placed horizontal - as per manufacturer - but the horizontal position hives a signifigant area to let particles settle.

You may see that this entire process - has been rationalized, disected, detailed, mapped, and tested - a cause and effect study every time we alter the setup LOL LOL --- it almost takes the fun out of it - untill the alternative comes to mind - then it is all worth it - Right?

Of course - - my regiment is geared to - what I call - a zero tollerance to toxic factors. Every tank has a 90 percent change - pre adjusted for pH etc - and the change is - during refill - allowed to proceed slowly in consideration of stress potential. This is never missed. a standard addiotion - weekly - of Stability -0 3 level bacteria formulation - ios added to the tanks to supplement the wet/dry biological family condo living and a mineral additive on each change. Unlike most people - around it seems - Chicago's biggest problem seems to be that they, here, are incapable in stabalizing the pH factor - morning is 6.8 and by evening 7.9 - our change water is prepared 24 hours ahead of each change so that it settles in for testing before being added.

That is why the commentary about the way Thurston died - and thank you for your comment - If I have an aquapuppy die - it is not from disease - of any conception - It is usually the result of an abnormallity such as what happened to him. Although - I admit this affected me more that has in the past in that I forsaw it, I knew what the problem was exactly, and I knew it would take two or three days to climax in death - but there was no way to locate anyone with the expertise to resolve the issue. And there is a point that you say to yourself - in that fleeting moment - that you may hurt him more than help him - if I were to ever think of trying to correct that tyhpe of problem ....

As I have stated in the past - with saddened resolve - there are just some things that nature will find to show us not everything is fixable or open to correction (unlike how many of us try to live as in sterile environments, air conditioning - etc... ) - oh wellll....

Eric

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Daryl - By the way -

With the Lifeguard tube type filter systems the flow control valves are required anyway - without them - when you would take the lid off the intake line would siphon into the filter unit and out the top - One of the design features I am surprised they did not adjust for - and when I was mentioning flow adjustment - the 1200 quietone pumps are not causinbg such a great flow to have the valves in a substantial closed pposition - It does allow you to refine the flow rate - without harm to the system.

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eric, we (the moderators/helpers) were concerned about your claim that Thurston may have died from milt impaction, as we had never heard of this happening before.

We have checked around and spoken to an authority on goldfish who also has never heard of milt impaction occuring with goldfish.

Do you have any evidence/references that milt impaction can occur or is it just something that you made up?

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i have never heard of milt impaction in freshwater fish of any kind but certain saltwater fish can suffer milt impaction, mainly it is sharks. oh and for any mods wondering where i got this info we were learning about reproduction in fish in science and it was in our text book and in a video we watched :)

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Well first: I do not know anyone - especially me, who would think that was something funny to "make up". Why would you even consider the idea that I would wish to make something up about the death of a pet.

To summarize what I had said; when I shift fish to the breeding tank and the female is already releasing small amounts of eggs; I have always carefully tested the female to assure that the release will go smoothly; as well the male. A vet friend ( the one that you used to see on the iams commercials with his afgans ) was part of my training long ago. When I had tested Thurston - itr was obvious that he was not releasing - my vet friend was away for the weekend. - and there is no other vets in the Chicago area that will take fish - By the time my friend returned 2 days later it was obvious that the pressure caused a ruptureand was causinbg bleeding. Of which he was put down so that he would not endure any more pain.

My vet friend - confirmed what had happened. At that stage of activity 0- as seen in the spawning videos I placed on utube - he should have easily released with almost no pressure to the underbelly area.

No it was not a joke.

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