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fanta_naranja

Oranda underbelly red spots

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So today before WC I have Ammonia at .25 Nitrite at 0, nitrate at 40, pH 8.2, and my tapwater is .25 ammonia.

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28 minutes ago, fanta_naranja said:

So today before WC I have Ammonia at .25 Nitrite at 0, nitrate at 40, pH 8.2, and my tapwater is .25 ammonia.

That right there tells me your over crowded with fish :( The ammonia even if you have it in your tap should be consumed with in 24-48 hours at that low level.

:( 

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Please test some distilled or RO water for ammonia to see what zero ammonia looks like.  Some people have trouble distinguishing between zero and 0.25 ppm ammonia.  Prime will protect your fish from 0.25 ammonia, but you must add Prime every 2 days to maintain that protection.  

Nitrate that reaches 40 ppm before a water change indicates too little water changed, too many fish, and/or overfeeding.  Most goldfish have no trouble with 40 ppm nitrate, but high nitrate also indicates high concentrations of other pollutants.  Some of these feed bacteria in the water, which at high concentrations may infect fish.  

The red spots probably indicate bacterial infection at the site of fluke attachment, so we would like to kill the flukes and bacteria.  So you should treat with praziquantel (for flukes) and metronidizole for the bacteria.  If you don't have access to these medications, you can use API General Cure until you can get the individual medications.  Be warned that you have to use a lot of General Cure to get results so it gets pretty expensive.

You do need to increase the amount of water you change.  Please do a very large water change, then change 50% of the water twice a week.  

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OK so I want to mention that the red spots cleared up quite soon after I made this post, and I can make a new post with a new title for my concern, which is the Oranda frequently going to the surface and gulping some air.

I have been doing 50% water changes every 6 days. I stopped feeding gel food and have been exclusively feeding the purple bag Hikari. After WC yesterday I started PraziPro and MetroPlex and installed a cheap heater that raises the tank temp to 76

I feel a bit silly now that I've tested RO water for ammonia because it really does look green to me. I'll let you all be the judge... http://i.imgur.com/07lGGPC.jpg . From left to right it's ammonia (RO water), ammonia (tap), ammonia (tank), Nitrites (tank), Nitrates (tank). Looks like between 20 and 40 nitrates to me but maybe I can't see reds either :/

edit: I'll add a video of the behavior: https://vid.me/nK9x

Edited by fanta_naranja

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We need the card in the picture behind the tubes.  You can't compare the color of something on the screen to something on paper.  The ammonia tests are all the same, for sure.  The nitrate looks like 40 to me.  Test your tap water for nitrate again.  Doing 50% changes once a week usually keeps nitrate in the 10-20 range.  You may have nitrate in the tap water (not unusual), or you may be overfeeding.

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OK here is a pic with the cards before a 50% WC today: http://i.imgur.com/ktd1Rao.jpg . left to right is RO, tap, tank. Continuing PraziPro and MetroPlex.

A slight wrinkle is that I'm going out of town for 8 days on Tuesday. The person I'm having look after my place doesn't know how to do water changes, so I'll obviously do a big WC the day I leave. What would be your suggestion for feeding instructions, as in grams per day or something (I have a scale).

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Looks to me the ammonia is 0 and the nitrates are 20 thats to my eyes :) 

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Observe how much food you feed each day -- count pellets, weigh them, or use a measuring spoon.  Then put that much food in each of four packets.  Date the packets so that she will feed one packet every other day.  Hide the rest of your food so she can't feel sorry for them and feed a bit more.  

Before you leave, fast the fish for a day and then do a 100% water change. Don't feed before you leave.

 

 

 

 

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