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If the dropsy is severe we don't want to do high salt, but with what looks like a parasitic issue the benefits of the salt and slime coat stimulation outweigh fluid retention disadvantages. Unless you have someone who is strongly pineconed instead of just a little rough?

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If the dropsy is severe we don't want to do high salt, but with what looks like a parasitic issue the benefits of the salt and slime coat stimulation outweigh fluid retention disadvantages. Unless you have someone who is strongly pineconed instead of just a little rough?

Epsom removed and back to salt at .3%..

______________________________________

 

Question about the other fish..

Is it safe to move the tancho (prolapsed ovaduct) to the main tank  ???

It has been in QT tank for almost a month with salt at .3% (13days) and 1 round of prazi

Super active and piggy eater

 

I thought of doing WC's using main tank water so it could acclimate but didn't want

to bring bugs to the QT that could worsen the bronze (pinconed) fish

 

Please advise

Edited by 210 Oranda

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I'm not ignoring your message or post, I'm just in the middle of homeschooling. Give me an hour and I'll update :)

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If the dropsy is severe we don't want to do high salt, but with what looks like a parasitic issue the benefits of the salt and slime coat stimulation outweigh fluid retention disadvantages. Unless you have someone who is strongly pineconed instead of just a little rough?

Epsom removed and back to salt at .3%..

______________________________________

Question about the other fish..

Is it safe to move the tancho (prolapsed ovaduct) to the main tank ???

Yes, in the absence of other symptoms I'd move her back.

It has been in QT tank for almost a month with salt at .3% (13days) and 1 round of prazi

Super active and piggy eater

Sounds good - move her.

I thought of doing WC's using main tank water so it could acclimate but didn't want

to bring bugs to the QT that could worsen the bronze (pinconed) fish

Please advise

Thats a good question. Bronze fish has been in the main tank or no? If not, I's not use tank water in the quarantine. If both fish have been in there before it is probably fine. Otherwise I'd stick her in a bucket and mix the water there for a day if you're worried about parameter differences or the seller has advised it. A bucket for a day or two isn't a big deal but we don't want to interrupt any progress of the bronze fish if they are already weakened by adding new bacteria/pathogen profiles. Make sense?

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If the dropsy is severe we don't want to do high salt, but with what looks like a parasitic issue the benefits of the salt and slime coat stimulation outweigh fluid retention disadvantages. Unless you have someone who is strongly pineconed instead of just a little rough?

Thats a good question. Bronze fish has been in the main tank or no? If not, I's not use tank water in the quarantine. If both fish have been in there before it is probably fine. Otherwise I'd stick her in a bucket and mix the water there for a day if you're worried about parameter differences or the seller has advised it. A bucket for a day or two isn't a big deal but we don't want to interrupt any progress of the bronze fish if they are already weakened by adding new bacteria/pathogen profiles. Make sense?

 

Non of them have been in the main tank.. only regular tap water

I thought the same as you're suggesting..

no main tank water touching the bronze fish until pinecone is completely gone

Unless you think a "day or two in a bucket" is necessary

 

Another question...

Since the Antiprotozoan (gram positive) flakes aren't doing anything to the fish,

Isn't it adequate to feed the (gram negative) flakes (Oxytetracycline and/or Kanamycin) or add powder to water..??

(just a thought)

 

Did you get a chance to read my PM sent on Apr23 ???... Thanks again!

Edited by 210 Oranda

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Just throwing this in.. so u can see behavior

Still little pineconed though

 

 

Still wondering if is adequate to feed the (gram negative) flakes (Oxytetracycline and/or Kanamycin) or add powder to water..??

 

Let me know please

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You must finish out the full course for the metronidazole flakes. And yes, dose the oxytetracycline flakes once that is completed. You can't easily double up on two medicated foods and adequately dose the correct volume for both, so don't even try. No waterborne meds at all, please.

They look good in the video, but if you're still seeing some symptoms that aren't coming across the oxy flakes are the way to go. No kanamycin at this time, okay?

When they're clear of symptoms you can add some tank water for slower acclimating, but it's probably not necessary if the two tanks are fairly similar in chemistry. If you want to move one of them due to no symptoms go for it.

Edited by Arctic Mama

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You must finish out the full course for the metronidazole flakes. And yes, dose the oxytetracycline flakes once that is completed. You can't easily double up on two medicated foods and adequately dose the correct volume for both, so don't even try. No waterborne meds at all, please.

They look good in the video, but if you're still seeing some symptoms that aren't coming across the oxy flakes are the way to go. No kanamycin at this time, okay?

When they're clear of symptoms you can add some tank water for slower acclimating, but it's probably not necessary if the two tanks are fairly similar in chemistry. If you want to move one of them due to no symptoms go for it.

 

Tancho was moved to main a couple of days ago and so far is doing good..

 

But.. Im doing a WC in the bronze's QT tank and I noticed this.. ARE WE FINROT ??

If so, what should I do ?

 

Edited by 210 Oranda

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Is that a hole I see in the anal fin? Are any others more tattered than normal? Is it bloody or white on the edges?

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Is that a hole I see in the anal fin? Are any others more tattered than normal? Is it bloody or white on the edges?

Yes.. that is a hole in the anal fin

It is red on the edges with some off-white

I just carefully look and it does have another (very) little hole in one of the pelvics

and the other pelvic seems to miss a small piece (kinda chewed off)

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Okay, swab it with either hydrogen peroxide or methylene blue. Keep an eye on it and if it gets worse or other fine become affected please let me know.

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Okay, swab it with either hydrogen peroxide or methylene blue. Keep an eye on it and if it gets worse or other fine become affected please let me know.

 

Ok.. I did that and I saw little blood on the Q-tip.. (just FYI)

let me know if I should do that more than once..

_____________________________________________________

 

Monday will be the end of the 2 week of Metro flakes course..

Can you tell me what am I doing afterwards.. ???

 

Also..

Do you know if this flakes (Angels Plus) are actual food with medication in it or just medication with fillers ???

You already know we are feeding this fish DOUBLE of the time recommended per manufacturer

so If NOT food in it Im just concerned of having the fish in-taking nothing but meds for a month (2 week metro + 2 week Oxytetracycline)

 

Thanks !!

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1. The food is nutritious, not just medicine. And I did not indicate to do a two week course - we need a full course as directed by the manufacturer, which is that food exclusively for ten days. A longer course isn't needed at this point and carries more risk of side effects we don't want to add into the mix.

2. Repeat the meth blue swab every day until the area looks less raw. If it isn't improved in a week please let me know and we will treat it differently to see if we can't prompt healing.

3. Once the metro flakes are done keep all parameters exactly the same, including your water change schedule, except dosing the oxytetracycline food as directed on the package.

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1. The food is nutritious, not just medicine. And I did not indicate to do a two week course - we need a full course as directed by the manufacturer, which is that food exclusively for ten days. A longer course isn't needed at this point and carries more risk of side effects we don't want to add into the mix.

2. Repeat the meth blue swab every day until the area looks less raw. If it isn't improved in a week please let me know and we will treat it differently to see if we can't prompt healing.

3. Once the metro flakes are done keep all parameters exactly the same, including your water change schedule, except dosing the oxytetracycline food as directed on the package.

 

Hello..

 

Just to let you know that Im using peroxide daily to clean the fins instead of meth blue (hope is ok)

Also.. Im in the beginning of the Oxy flakes however.. I just remember that the fish has been in 0.3% salt for over 25 days (combined, while in QT) ..

Is it ok to keep it in salt for another 9 days ???

 

Thanks!!

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Hope they feel better soon.

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Your call. I'd probably bump the salt back down if their fins and slime coats looked fine at this point, and just feed the medicated food. If there are external symptoms then keep the salinity at .3-.5%, depending on what your seller indicated.

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Your call. I'd probably bump the salt back down if their fins and slime coats looked fine at this point, and just feed the medicated food. If there are external symptoms then keep the salinity at .3-.5%, depending on what your seller indicated.

 

I prefer to do what you guys suggest.. Im not sure if (0.3%) salt for over 30 days is bad on a fish

If it's not gonna hurt and it might help with the fin issue, I'll leave it.. you're the boss

 

The fin issues are the same.. anal still red (bloody) and now a caudal one has split and have some white in it..

(see full video please)

Edited by 210 Oranda

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Not trying to bump the thread to the top but I think the anal fin looks worse

 

Please advise

 

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Okay, swab it with either hydrogen peroxide or methylene blue. Keep an eye on it and if it gets worse or other fine become affected please let me know.

Well.. 10 days have passed and the anal fin is literally disappearing

I don't know what to do to make it better or grow back!!.. :no: 

 

I know you're busy.. but please let me know what do you suggest  

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Hope he feels better.

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Definitely bump the thread if you need help, I don't see everything when I log on :)

I'm sorry to hear about the anal fin and am going to ask the other mods their opinion. Sit tight.

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Here is what Helen said:

if this were my fish, i would do a very high potent salt dip for a very short time. then, a day after the dip, i would simply trim off the dead bits of fin. that would be my last attempt to heal continually eroding fins.

That's our best advice at this point. The good news is even if the fin entirely erodes if that is the worst of it you're still looking at w functional, happy animal. It's the internal problems I'm most concerned about.

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Here is what Helen said:

 

if this were my fish, i would do a very high potent salt dip for a very short time. then, a day after the dip, i would simply trim off the dead bits of fin. that would be my last attempt to heal continually eroding fins.

That's our best advice at this point. The good news is even if the fin entirely erodes if that is the worst of it you're still looking at w functional, happy animal. It's the internal problems I'm most concerned about.

 

 

Thank you!!..

I will do a salt dip tomorrow..

However.. whats the appropriate ratio (water:salt) and the time of the dip ??

(never done one so)

 

Also..

Today is the last day of the Oxytetracycline flakes..

How do you want me to proceed afterwards ???

 

The fish is SUPER active all day..

Scales are NOT 100% flat but not pineconed either..

The fish looks somehow pineconed in the (top) videos I took last night

but it is not in real life.. I think because it's scales have different colors it creates an optical illusion but I might be wrong

 

Please advise

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Dip instructions, with thanks to dnalex :)

DIP

1. dissolve 30 teaspoons salt/gallon of water (30 grams/Liter, or 113.7g/gallon). This concentration is 3%. Let it match the temp/pH of the tank, and make sure to add de-chlorinator. You can also use tank water, but because you are adding a lot of salt per gallon, you will need to heat up the water. Hence, it's crucial that you cool it back down.

2. prepare a holding tank. This is a tank that is pH/temp matched with the main tank, and has been de-chlorinated. This can be a 5 gallon tub, with bubblestone, or something bigger.

3. make sure you have some sort of timer

4. gently lift the fish out of the tank, and place into temp/pH matched salt solution.

5. start timer.

6. if the fish stays continues to stay upright, or tilts over but can get back up, keep him/her in the salt solution for exactly 5 minutes.

7. remove fish from the salt, and place in holding tank. The reason why we do this is to: 1) give the fish a place to recover by him/herself, and 2)to let the fish purge out ammonia/wastes in a place that is not the main tank.

8. if the fish starts to lose balance and cannot get back before the minutes, remove him/her and place in holding tank, as described in #6.

9. after 1-2 hours, the fish can be moved back to the main tank. He/She might still be disoriented, but should be fine.

After the oxy is completed please keep the fish in QT with clean water, no salt, and just observe behavior for the next week. If all seems normal for this fish with no return of symptoms then transition him to the main tank. If the fins stay bad you'll have to make a decision whether to just let them heal on their own in the main tank or keep him out. If they're worsening, there isn't much for it but time. We have reached the limit of the internal meds I'm comfortable doing on this animal and topical treatments haven't worked. But the fish may well bounce back on its own with some more time. There isn't much more to be done beyond that.

I'm out of town for a week and away from the Internet. Please poke a team member directly if you need help and I'm not responding :)

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Thank you Taryl..

 

Here's my video update of the anal fin.. :(

 

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