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anastasiam

Need advice on a Craigslist tank!

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Hi everyone! I found this add on craigslist and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on it?

One of my main questions would be more specifically on how to re-seal an aquarium...

http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/for/3860639266.html

Thanks everyone!!

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That's an awesome price, but I'm not sure about the leaking. If you can take the time and energy to seal it, I say go for it! :D

Edited by teleSC

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Resealing a tank is not a deal breaker. If you have the time and energy to do it, I say go for it!

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I've done it before on a smaller tank. It's worth doing if the price is lowered.

On a tank this size it might be more complicated to get it right and also more critical due to the potential mess. So not sure what to tell you here.

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Is tank re-sealing super difficult?

thanks for the input guys!!

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go for it if you have the time and money to seal it!!!

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I don't think resealing is super difficult. You have to make sure drying time are adhered.

What is hard is making the seams look nice. Some people who reseal tanks can have a perfect bead and others (like me) just look like they used a clear ketchup bottle to seal it :rofl

Also make sure that the leak is in fact coming from a seal and not a chip in the glass. (I know he said the glass is in tact but you never know)

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That part isn't too hard, easily if you don't care how the seam turns out.

The hardest part is that panels need to held together rigid and tight while the silicone dries at the seams.

It might be worth going onto monsterfishkeepers and asking there.

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Eighty bucks for 120g sounds like a great deal. But personally for me I wouldn't get it. I'd be afraid I would mess it up or over time my work would be a disaster and unseal itself. :( I think I would be paranoid and constantly looking at the tank making sure it's not leaking.

If you think you can do it though you should purchase it. That's a huge tank. :) And just imagine how neat that is going to look and be for your fish.

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I'd say go for it! Especially since he's willing to deliver for only 20 bucks! :o Try to really do your research on resealing a tank, before you start. Look up tips/tricks on resealing a tank.

The only thing that might be a pain is reaching in to seal the bottom, and maybe worrying over getting your seams nice and net. Also be sure to really let the silicone dry; if you rush it, you might end up with leaks. Test your work outside of your house, and be sure that you have a way to tell that it's leak proof.

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Use painters tape around the edges when you reseal to make a nice line; you can also get an inexpensive caulking tool to smooth it out at the hardware store.

~~Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk~~

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How timely! I resealed a 25G tank yesterday, and even still have the vinegar smell in the basement.

I think the tank, at $80, is too expensive to cost justify the reseal job. Maybe at $60? It will be a lot of work. I estimate about 3-4 hours or so, mainly in prep. Scaling up the cost and usage for my 25G, the cost of GE silicone 1 caulking, at $5 per 290ml, would be $15. You will need a caulking gun, razor blades ($3), a razor blade holder, rubbing alcohol (to remove residual silicone and remove all oils), masking/painter's tape, and a small vaccum.

You will need to keep the glass panes together while you work on this. Some people use some tiedown straps for car/truck luggage. Something strong that you can attach to the top and to the bottom, to keep the tank looking tankish.

The tank is 26" deep, so when you are scraping off the silicone and add your masking tape you will be very deep into the tank, like head first deep. My tank is 16" deep and doable for me, but with 26" of depth I am unsure if my arm would be long enough. You really need to get deep into the tank to not only ensure you completely remove the old silicone, which sticks exceedingly well, but to also wipe down the edges with rubbing alcohol, then tape the seams to get a nice line. Prep is critical.

Doing the actual silicone bead is really the easy and fun, but smelly part. The caulking gun tip is long, so this makes it easier to reach into the tank. When your head is in the tank and you are squirting out all that gooey goodness the smell might be strong to overpowering. I was slightly craving for fish and chips! I'd wear a respirator with a deep tank.

Sorry for the longish post. I might have inhaled too much vinegar fumes.

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Sorry for the longish post. I might have inhaled too much vinegar fumes.

lol!

~~Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk~~

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The real cost could be cleaning up 120 gallons of water if the seals between the glass are bad.

Make sure the silicone between the glass is in good condition.

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Hi there,

I just did my first reseal yesterday and the tank has held water for 24 hours, no leak. It was super easy and cost me $10 bucks. If you screw it up, just peel off the new seal and go again. I used GE silicone I (do not use II, or anything with mold, mildew, fungus killers), just pure silicone. It says it's for doors, windows, basements and attics. I scraped off ALL (very important) of the old silicone from the inside. Wiped it down with rubbing alcohol to remove any particles and disinfect (this was the most disgusting tank ever). Then, I masking taped all of the seams, siliconed a nice big bead and used my finger to remove excess. I peeled the tape off right away (it gets stuck if you don't) and the lines were perfect with no mess. It looks better than the manufacturer's seal did. Supplies: boxcutter (to cut seams), razor blade in holder to work off the cut seams, GE silicone I, masking tape, rubbing alcohol, paper towel.

Test it outside on a stand if it's metal, flat level surface if your stand is particle board.

The worst part was removing the old silicone, it took about 2 hours. The reseal itself took all of 30 minutes. I say go for it!

Edited by goldiegeek

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Hi there,

I just did my first reseal yesterday and the tank has held water for 24 hours, no leak. It was super easy and cost me $10 bucks. If you screw it up, just peel off the new seal and go again. I used GE silicone I (do not use II, or anything with mold, mildew, fungus killers), just pure silicone. It says it's for doors, windows, basements and attics. I scraped off ALL (very important) of the old silicone from the inside. Wiped it down with rubbing alcohol to remove any particles and disinfect (this was the most disgusting tank ever). Then, I masking taped all of the seams, siliconed a nice big bead and used my finger to remove excess. I peeled the tape off right away (it gets stuck if you don't) and the lines were perfect with no mess. It looks better than the manufacturer's seal did. Supplies: boxcutter (to cut seams), razor blade in holder to work off the cut seams, GE silicone I, masking tape, rubbing alcohol, paper towel.

Test it outside on a stand if it's metal, flat level surface if your stand is particle board.

The worst part was removing the old silicone, it took about 2 hours. The reseal itself took all of 30 minutes. I say go for it!

Please pay attention to the dates on the last post in a thread. This thread was from June and is no longer active. ;)

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