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Found 24 results

  1. Hi there guys! I'm running out of water conditioner and this time I plan to go big in stocking ( buy like a 1gal of it) as it takes about 2 weeks to receive my orders and with holidays coming up it would probably take even longer. I used to use Prime as it came highly recommended by fish keepers online. I can't say it did miracles to my tap water as others claim. A few months back I was looking for some medicated water conditioner and ordered Amquel Plus by mistake. I had very little Prime left so I decided no to cancel and give it a try. At that time Rory was having a fungus of some sort on her tail that I was trying to heal unsuccessfully with salt baths and Medicagold. Also had some issues keeping pH levels up and steady. A couple of days after I treated the water with Amquel the fungus disappeared and (to touch wood) my fish look healthier. No problem with very low pH either. I'd like to "hear" about your experience with Prime and Amquel. An advice on which one to buy will be much appreciated. By the way, the pH of tap water at my place is 7.
  2. hey guys today morning again my fishes were spawing, since i dont have too many hiding spots in, i have to seperate them to another 5 gallon tank of 11" by 9" tank but the problem is i have only 1.5 inches of water level is that fine or i have to add water if so how? which water? when? I didnt want to take risk so i didnot added water, My all eggs are transculent and seems 100% fertile. I have added airstone in it, mehylene blue one drop,and a live amzon sword plant lie.
  3. Hi guys, I'm new to goldfish keeping, I've just started 20 gallon tank forsome goldfish and I really want to know more about the water level in the tank. I've read some articles about it and some recommends that it should be between 15 to 20cm to give the fish less water pressure and nice tail, but I saw lots of video on youtube of some tanka fully filled .So which one is better ?
  4. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0ppm * Nitrite Level(Tank) .10ppm (was at 2.0 ppm three days ago) * Nitrate level(Tank) 0ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) .15ppm * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tap) 0ppm * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.6 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.4 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Freshwater test kit (Drops) * Water temperature? 71.8 * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55g / running for a month now * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? AquaClear 70 HOB * How often do you change the water and how much? 20-40% once a week * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Yesterday, 50% (there was a Nitrite spike) * How many fish in the tank and their size? two goldfish; 13g pearlscale and 13g oranda * What kind of water additives or conditioners? SeaChem Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? Hikari Fancy Goldfish pellets, 2-3x a day * Any new fish added to the tank? No * Any medications added to the tank? Only a .01% salt treatment to possibly help with detoxing Nitrites. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Two weeks ago, 0.03% salt treatment, for Ick. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Red spot on body. Was not there a week ago. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? He has been hanging out in the bamboo plant about two inches from the surface. Not gulping air or anything, just staying near the top. From what my internet sluthing has come up with, it may be Nitrite Poisoning? There was a large spike in my Nitrites just 4-5 days ago (Nitrogen Cycle) and I didn't catch it to do a WC. I'm uncertain how long they were subject to the spike. Video of Krang and Petrie (Red Spot visible)
  5. Hi, this is the begining of my journey, I had a 10 gal at home (my main tank) that used to house a betta and some neons, cycled and everything was good for a year, then the neons started bulling the betta and so he had to move to my 5 gal. tank (he is totally happy there) so I was rooming around and so I got my hands in a ranchu, put the neons in another tank(they are much better in there) and left the ranchu all in the 10 gal tank, kept investigating and so I upgraded to a 20 long but 2 weeks before I set up the tank I cleaned the 10 gal tank loosing my cycle (I changed from a wall filter to an sponge filter) so I was doing 70% water change morning and 50% water change at night, I never let the ammonia to build more than 0.50ppm and the nitrates never more than 20ppm that was for 2 weeks then I set up the 20 long so I put the sponge filter into the new tank with the old tank water (I have no decor in the tank) and my ranchu in it, so kept doing the same thing for a week it was still pretty much the same then I put 2 little anubias and a lilly(top plant) in the tank, my ammonia(1.0ppm) started rising with the nitrate(40ppm) so I figured it was because the sponge could not be enough for the bb to colonize so I put the ceramic media, from a brand new aqua clear 70 (got it for when s/he will get older), into the tank then 3 days later I got my ammonia at 1.0 and nitrate at 20 so I did 80% water change; then the next day I did testing and it was ammonia:0.25 nitrate:20 there is no way that they will rise so much in only 24 hours(I then installed the aqua clear 70 hoping that the extra sponge could only help; I figured out a way for the dropping of the water not to make a current, so far so good extra sponges are never too bad right?). then the next day the ammonia:0.50 and nitrate:40 did a 7 gal water change then 2 days after it got again to this point where I did again the 7 gal water change; then the next day I got ammonia:0.25 nitrate:10 and I noticed that my ranchu was trying to eat some clear stuff from the anubias(I stopped feeding so much as s/he had trailing poop) so I took them out and proceeded to take some ceramic media from my 5 gal tank and placed it in the aqua clear ; 24 hours later I did a water test and got ammonia:0.50 nitrate:40 this time I did not do the water change and then 24 hours later I did a water test and got ammonia:1.0 nitrate:40 so I did a 90% water change(today). API water test kit with a reading of: PH:7.6 HPH:7.4 Ammonia:0.25-1.0ppm Nitrite:0 (glorious number never changes) Nitrate:5.0-40ppm when the water gets to the highest I will do water change(this week only) but before that I was doing two times a day. tap water will give me a reading of 0 in all of them and then the PH and HPH will be the same numbers not quite the same deep color but not light/dark enough to change into another number. I am well going into my 5th week of this cycling process so I am getting to the point where I am asking myself what else to do, shall I get some new plants? plastic ones ofcourse cuz I am done with the live ones(rehome them into glass containers in my window sill and to my surprise the anubias are pulling out new growth, I figure not enough lighting for them to be of much help in the tank since they are little ones still.) I am not putting any gravel (I did graduated from gravel a long time ago) what else can I do??? thank you for your help this is as much info I can give without being too extent and yet I feel I have given you the story of my life... LOL... so once again sorry and thank you.!
  6. Hi all, I hope im in the correct place. Its my 1st post. I have a large tank 450l. I recently went pond hunting and found out that most medium sized ponds are about 450l. My question is why do ponds need less filtration than indoor tanks, and why do fish grow faster in a pond?
  7. Hello all - I am a new member and need someone to slap me. Here is my dilema ..... I have raised fish successfully for over 20 years . Not a novice by any means , BUT not a beginner either. For the last 7 years I had raised goldfish bowl comets to 6 inch beauties in a 55 gal tank. Trying to be the good steward , I had released them into a beautiful pond to grow and live out their next 15 years . This time around I thought I would raise Fancies . Never having them before , I have done extensive research to make sure that I provide the best care possible . ( I love this site by the way - very informative , watching it from afar for ever ) Anyway - After reading what I need to know - My head is spinning out of control . I am talking about water quality - Everywhere I read , they want you to have PERFECT water . Too hard , too soft , add salt , add this , add that . Good grief - I understand the importance of keeping up with your water , BUT - water softner water is no good , they prefer we add chemicals left and right . Holy cow - you would think the constant water changes , plants , bio filters would be enough . NOPE - not good enough . Gotta add Chemicals or they will die . After all of this doom and gloom talk , I dont even feel adequate to have a goldfish. I just thought , like a dummy , goldfish are pretty hardy & will adapt to their environment as long as they have a healthy bio system . Yes - I have a dreaded water softner , as most people have well or city water . I understand its not perfect , BUT - during changes doesnt the tank water mix with the soft water & you still have clean fresh water at the end of the change ? Isnt that the ultimate goal ? Also - people change water daily ? You would almost think that would cause stress on the fish . My point is - There is no such thing as " perfect " water - they need good CLEAN water , not perfect. If somebody can shed some light on this - maybe I am missing something ? Almost feel I should turn their tank into a rat cage ....... would hate to make a goldie suffer.
  8. Does anyone have an elderly friendly water changing setup? Preferably still cleans the gravel. Not too complicated and expensive.
  9. my water is cloudy... Until my test kit comes all I have are some test strips but here are my readings as far as I can tell... GH: 0 KH: 240 PH: 8.5 NO2: 10? N03: 10? Tap water: GH: 6.0 KH: 240 PH: 7.0 N02: 0 N03: 0 What I did is treat it for cloudy water, put in something to balance the PH to 7, and treated it for high ammonia... I also added tap water conditioner (when I first filled the tank) and API: quickstart. I didn't know about cycling back when I started the tank... Now I'm stuck and I have a new fish coming soon in the mail... what can I do? What else I did: Added water from my boyfriends turtle tank whose only problem was high KH... Added water from my tropical tank: Which is clear but I don't have enough strips to do a test on.
  10. TAP WATER: PH: 7.6 (OR UP) High Range PH: 7.4 Ammonia: 0.25ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 0ppm TANK TEST: PH: 7.6 (OR UP) High Range PH: 8.2 Ammonia: 0.50ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 0ppm Thanks guys. I don't know whats good, whats not, and what to do about what I have. I detoxified the ammonia and added a proper PH thingy to the tank. Thats pretty much all that would affect these readings...
  11. Hi guys..... The tank I have in our extension gets lots of sunshine (when it's available!!), the last couple of days I've suffered badly from green water..... I had a look on Amazon, and came across an external UV filter made by AllPondSolutions...... I chose the 2000EF+ Model.....it pushes 2000 L/Hr and has an internal 9w UV lighting tube. I connected it to the tank tonight .... for the moment I have just rigged it up externally. I have kept my Fluval external filter and my internal Interpet IPF3 running for the moment, as not to affect my cycled tank. I will take the latter two filters out of the equation eventually, the new filter is more that big enough to run my 160 litre tank. Fingers crossed the transition will go smoothly, and that dreaded green water will be a thing of the past... I'll update the images in a few days to demonstrate the new pumps' efficiency....I will either rave about it, or criticise it to high heaven.....
  12. I have a Sunsun 304B canister filter with a 9uv light on a 110 gallon tank. Do uv lights affect (kill off) beneficial bacteria?
  13. My tank is undergoing a bacterial bloom. I'm 150% sure of this. I did a really large water change took out too much water which killed the bacteria in my filter (idk how much). I test my water and ammonia/nitrite are ok. Nitrate is around 40ppm. My water is cloudy white. I'm afraid the fish will die. What should I do?
  14. So I have a large aquarium and I'm tired of carrying 5 gallon buckets to and from the sink to do a 30 gallon water change. I can't get a hold of a python now because my nitrites are at the level where it's getting stressful. Can I use a bplastic wheelbarrow to carry water? I have a 200 gph pump to put the water back in.
  15. According to your experience what is the best/most effective way that you have found keeps YOUR tank water crystal clear?
  16. Is there a more efficient/proper way to set up spray bars? 1) I've noticed that If I set the spray bar a little higher than my water line, the output splashes with more force which creates thousands of mini air bubbles that flow through the tank. 2) If I set the bar up on the water line, the water just comes through with little splash and doesn't create as many bubbles. Is option 1 more beneficial for the fish/water quality because of the bubbles. Bubbles do bring gases to the surface I've been told or read somewhere.
  17. Those of you who use water changers to change/take out/replace water, how do you manage to do that without affecting the health of the fish? Most tap water has chlorine, which is bad for fish. How do you treat your water when using a water changer?
  18. Has anyone had any luck with these? it's made out of glass. I'm afraid the fish my break it. ViaAqua 300-Watt Quartz Glass Submersible Heater with Built-In Thermostat
  19. Hello to all! I've been looking around these forums for a while now and have found some great info within the threads. First time post so my apologies if I forget to supply any vital info....... I have a 29 gallon tank that I set up a few weeks (3) ago and read all about the nitrogen cycle and how it works. After reading about this I decided to add a couple of danios to get the cycle going and have been monitoring the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and ph levels daily. I used tap water treated with seachem prime in the tank. The first week or so, the ammonia levels went up and I kept them in check with water changes, after the nirites started showing up the ammonia has been steady between .25 and sometimes a little higher but below .50ppm. The nitrites shot up to about 2.0 and I brought it down with water changes between 25-50%. Just yesterday my nitrite levels were very high at about 4.0ppm and I asked the guy at the pet super market nearby and he said i was probably feeding the fish too much so I did another water change about 80% and used a siphon vacuum to remove most of the food that was inbetween the gravel in the tank. When doin this I found a dead danio stuck behind a bubble wand that I have in there and it seemed to have been dead for a little bit. (poor little guy , So I thought he might the culprit for such high levels of nitrite and figured the levels would fall after the water change and removing the little danio. that was last night and upon checking the water this morning the nitrites are back up to 2.0+. I fear that these little guys are under too much stress and will perish...... I was hoping that I could get some input as to what might bring the nitrite levels up so rapidly, I have been doing almost daily water changes to keep levels down but I'm afraid that I cant keep up! any info or advice would be greatly appreciated! The ph in the tank has been steady at 7.6 nitrates are reading at 5.0 ppm and carbonate hardness is at 70ppm I have to power filters equal to 350gph combined and a bubble wand and disc with larger sized gravel and a couple of beach pebbles bought at lowes just scattered around the tank. thanks for any advice or info! have a great day! Roger
  20. is it a good idea to treat a tank for parasites/disease etc. after the cycle is over (and before adding fish)? like adding something to the water "just in case"/as prevention.
  21. So i mixed up 19 parts water and 1 part bleach and dunked each plant in it, let it sit for a little bit, and moved them to another tub of water. Then to the non bleached tub I added prime. What else do i need to do? They still smell a little like bleach. What else do I need to do to make them safe for my tank?
  22. This video is a sample of water out of the 20 gallon Guppy tanks filter. I had another video but it got lost in transit Enjoy!!
  23. why do aquariums so highly recommend the use of the blue conditioning salts? i know they contain beneficial minerals etc. but isn't the "salt" part the same as the chunky white aquarium salt crystals & therefore not really necessary in everyday water? i know minerals are important & can't figure out how to add them to the water another way... also, when salting a tank that is already using the blue salts, do you have to take into consideration the amount of blue salts in the water when calculating how much to add to bring the tank to .1%, .2% etc. for medicinal treatment of the fish? thanks!
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