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Found 9 results

  1. I'm getting conflicting information. Can anyone tell me what the optimal dH for KH and GH are? The reason I'm asking is because my tap water's KH is 3 dH (53.7 ppm) and the GH is 6 dH (107.4 ppm). From what I've read so far, I know the KH and GH values are too low. When I put together my tank I made a layered substrate of dirt sprinkled with crushed coral and capped with aragonite sand. I figured this would be enough to boost the GH and KH to certain degree and stabilize. Of course when I do water changes this process happens again. So yesterday I did a water change and 24 hours after I measured the KH at 7 dH (125.3 ppm) and the GH at 8 dH (143.2 ppm). Seems like the crushed coral and aragonite sand are doing there work. But a few questions: 1. Do I still need to tinker with the water to raise the KH and GH or are they in there optimal range? and, 2. Since I'm not adding any buffers or replenishing the minerals with lost with the water change, is this too much time for the KH and GH values to not be in there optimal range? I also have ample amounts of SeaChem Replenish and baking soda.
  2. Hello everyone, I have finally managed to do most of the move and will soon be able to start what I like to refer as my goldfish journey, in form of fishless cycling. Before I start this, though, I'd really appreciate some help with my water parameters. I tested the water we have today with API Freshwater drops, and got following results: Ph: 7,4 Ammonia,nitrite,nitrate all 0 Gh: 71,6 (4 drops) Kh: 53,7 (3 drops) Now, as far as I know, the Ph is fine for goldfish, but the Kh anf Gh are problem, especially Kh as I believe ppm this low can easily result into Ph crash (I believe Kh and Gh between 100-150 ppm is desireable for goldfish tank?). I am aware of the method to raise Kh with baking soda, and plan on using that to raise Kh, but I would like to hear a) what to do with the low Gh and b) that I have understood what I've read correctly and there isn't anything in my ramble here that makes you guys' alarm bells ring. (someone please hold my hand this is scary and exciting )
  3. I have soft tap water with a pH of between 6.8 and 7.0 that rises naturally by .6-.8 points over a 24-48 hour period, which makes large water changes extremely stressful for this fish. I already add 5/8 tsp to every 5 gallons to bring the kH up to 9 drops, which also pushes the initial pH up to 7.6, but that doesn't really help, because it also pushes the eventual pH up to 8.2-8.4. So, for an example: Fish are in the tank with a pH of 8.2-8.4. I move the fish plus some tank water to a large casserole dish, empty the tank, add water, baking soda, and Prime (and PraziPro on applicable days), which brings the pH to around 7.6. It takes 4-6 hours with aerators on full blast to raise the new water to 8.0 so that I can re-add the fish, who have now been in that casserole dish a VERY long time. What can I do differently to make large water changes less stressful for the fish?
  4. The tap water's ph is about 7.6-7.8, but the kh is about 3 drops. So I add baking soda to get the kh to about 7-9 drops. That raises the ph to about 8.4+. The brown hairy algae love this ph range. I would prefer to keep the ph range to what comes out of the tap to help reduce the brown algae (I only keep my lights on for about 6 hours a day). Would Gold Buffer be a better choice to buffer the ph but not raise it? I like the cost of baking soda in comparison to Gold Buffer, but I'm tired of fighting with too much brown algae.
  5. I have recently moved and want to see if the water parameters are ok or if there are any suggestions to make it good for my fishies (2 orandas in a 55 gallon) It is a private well & a water softener is used. The ph is 7.5, ammonia/nitrate/nitrite is 0. Gh is @ 1 drop (way too low) and the kh is @16 drops (I believe that is too high). If anyone has any suggestions on how I could get the gh &kh better suited for the fish I would really really appreciate it. I have been filling 1 gallon water containers twice weekly (15 gallons total each time) then take them home to do the water change. It would be much easier for me if I was able to use the water in the house or even a half & half mix (half from work with half from home). The gh from work is 9 drops, the kh is 6 drops, ph 7.6, ammonia/nitrate/nitrite is 0. Thank you in advance for any help.
  6. I have a 29 gallon tank that is currently uncycled (started late October this year). Should I work on optimizing the hardness of the water now or should I wait until my tank is cycled? Current params: Ammonia 0. (80%water change yesterday, water changes every third day) Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 Tank and faucet ph 7.4 - 7.6 Tank and faucet gh = 3 drops Tank and faucet kh = 3 drops I have crushed coral in my hob filter, and ever since then the ph range has been in the 7.5 range. Oh yeah, two lovely orandas with about 2.5 inch bodies.
  7. How important is this kit to have? My current non treated PH is 7.5.
  8. Hey everybody i finally got the kH/gH test kit!!!!! It arrived today sooo immediatly i went downstairs and tested the water. I guess the basement sink ISNT softened gH= 10 drops or 179 and kH=12 or 214.8. Sooo pretty hard water. I now know that the "white dust" in my cycling tank is calcium deposits. I am also not on a well which is super weird that my water would be that hard. Now that i know it is calcium, how do it get rid of it?? Thanks!!
  9. Hey everyone! Recently i got a 50 gallon tank for my b-day.(Couldent get parents to agree on a 75!) I just started cycling it today(19th) and all is well. The pH out of my tap is between 8.0-8.2.. The tank water is between 8.4-8.6. Really high!!!!! Is that difference okay for the fish when cycling is done? For doing large water changes? I currently don't have a gH/kH test kit:( I will be ordering one soon. Is anything needed for this high of a pH? On the test, the color didnt exactly match any of the colors, soo i went on the tone of the color. Thank youuuu sooo much!
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