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Found 30 results

  1. I have 2 fantail goldfish in a 65 lt tank. The filter is a hang on back filter but back because i keep it in my room i turn the filter off at night. Does it affect the cycle of the tank or is it ok?
  2. Hi all, I was wondering if anyone would care to share how long your fishless cycle took, especially if you fishless cycled without old media. I had to do a total tear-down of my tank and have been using pure ammonia. It is currently at 3-4 ppm for 10 days without any sign of dropping or nitrites. The last time I fishless cycled, I think it took about a month, but that was nearly 5 years ago. When my tank had a massive BB death and re-cycle about 16 months ago, I had to do fish-in cycling, they suffered since I had to go to Europe for two weeks and had my hapless boyfriend trying to do water changes, and so I don't know how long that took to fix itself. Specs: 29-gallon tank with sand and moderate planting; two AQ 70s; bubble wand; 81 F; lights for the plants during the day. So.... I know that the correct counsel is patience, but I'd like to know if something's wrong or what other people experienced.
  3. Hello! So I'm relatively new to fish keeping. Because of REALLY bad circumstances, I have ended up with two single tailed fish in a 10 gallon tank with a 29 gallon tank that I'm planning to move them into eventually. What I want to know is, how can I cycle my 29 fast and safely? Should I leave the fish in the 10 and do a fishless cycle on the 29, and then add them once it's cycled? Or should I just add the fish and cycle the tank with them in it? I have a 400 gph hang on back filter with filter floss and ceramic media. Thanks!
  4. Fishless Cycling Below is a quick guide to cycling your aquarium without fish. Cycling without fish has many benefits for both you and your future fish. It is less stressful for you because there is no need to worry about daily water changes and the health of your fish, and less stressful for your fish because they will not be exposed to harmful toxins during the cycling process. You can expect a complete cycle to take anywhere from 1-3 months on average, but every tank is different. If you are not familiar with the nitrogen cycle please read about it here http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/cycle.html What you will need: 1. Ammonia source - Liquid ammonia, used for cleaning, can be found at hardware stores, dollar stores, and some larger chain stores. Ammonia should be free of any dyes or perfumes. Ingredients should read ammonia and water only. - If liquid ammonia cannot be obtained, a frozen prawn or fish food can be used as an ammonia source. Liquid ammonia is preferable though when it is available because it is easier to measure exact amounts. 2. Water test kit - A liquid test kit, such as the API master freshwater kit, is necessary. Test kit should contain pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate tests. - A kh and gh test kit can also be helpful, particularly if you suspect you may have soft water. 3. Heater - A heater is not always necessary, but can help the cycling process along. Starting the Cycle: - It is a good idea to keep a log somewhere regarding your cycling process. You can use a notebook, or start a thread on the forum in the water quality section. 1. Test your tap water to determine if your tap contains ammonia/nitrite/nitrate, make note of this if it does. Also test pH along with gh/kh if you have this test kit. Ultimately, pH should be 7.2 or above and gh/kh should be 100ppm or above for goldfish. During cycling, a pH of less than 7.2 and kh less than 40ppm can inhibit the cycling process. Optimal pH and kh for the purpose of building a colony of nitrifying bacteria are 8.3 and 300ppm respectively. If you find you have a low pH and kh you will need to buffer your water. A commercial buffer, crushed coral, or baking soda can be used for this purpose http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/110296-stabilizing-your-tank-ph-with-sodium-bicarbonate-baking-soda/ 2. Fill your tank as you normally would, adding dechlorinated tap water 3. Raise tank temperature to 80F. This will help the beneficial bacteria to multiply more quickly. 4. Add enough ammonia to bring the ammonia concentration to 4ppm. How much ammonia you need will depend on the concentration of your ammonia. However, approximately 1.5 ml (.3 tsp) should bring 10 gallons close to 4ppm. Add ammonia to tank, wait 5-10 min for it to circulate, then test ammonia. Adjust as necessary. - If you are using fish food, begin by adding about 1/2 tablespoon of food per 10 gallons or frozen prawn to the tank. You can place food in a mesh or pantyhose for easy clean up if you like. Wait a couple days and test ammonia. If ammonia is less than 4ppm, add more food and repeat ammonia test in a couple days. It is a good idea to replace the food with new food every couple weeks 5. Wait..... test your ammonia regularly. At the beginning of your cycle it is not necessary to test daily, however as you begin to see ammonia dropping it is important to begin testing on a daily basis so that you will know when it is time to add more ammonia. There is no need to test nitrite/nitrate until ammonia begins to drop. 6. When ammonia drops near 0ppm, add enough ammonia to bring it back up to 4ppm. Continue testing your water daily, and bring ammonia back up to 4ppm as necessary. It is important to begin testing nitrites at this point. 7. When you first register a nitrite reading, drop the ammonia concentration down to 1ppm. From now on you will dose 1ppm of ammonia. Allow ammonia to drop near 0ppm before raising ammonia back to 1ppm. It is important to begin testing nitrates at this point in the cycle. 9. If nitrites reach a concentration of 2ppm, do a large water change and add ammonia back in. Nitrites higher than 2ppm can sometimes stall the cycle, so water changes are necessary to keep these lower. 10. You should begin seeing nitrates soon. If nitrates register as high as your test kit is able to detect, do a large water change and bring ammonia back up. Completing the Cycle: You will know your cycle is complete when, within 24 hours of adding 1ppm of ammonia, ammonia and nitrite test 0ppm and your test kit registers some nitrate reading. Nitrite readings typically take longer to bottom out as compared to the time it took for ammonia readings to drop to 0ppm. Remember that cycling can take time, keeping temperatures warm, kh high, and pH at an optimal level will help things along. However, if you feel as though your cycle is taking longer than typical to complete, please begin a thread in the water quality section of the forum and we would be happy to help you problem solve. Adding Fish and Cycle 'Bumps': When you feel certain your tank has finished cycling, do a 100% water change before adding any fish. When you add your fish, check water parameters daily for at least 1 week to make sure there are no cycle bumps. If you do see ammonia or nitrite readings, indicating a bump in your cycle, follow the instructions below: - Test water daily. If ammonia plus nitrite are less than 1ppm, add a double dose of Seachem Prime water conditioner for the day (repeat the next day if necessary). If ammonia plus nitrite are equal to 1ppm or higher do a large water change to bring ammonia/nitrite down. Please remember to match temp and tap pH when doing water changes. Tank and tap pH should match within .5ppm and temp within about 3 degrees. If there is a large difference between tap and tank pH you may need to do multiple smaller water changes to bring ammonia/nitrite down. Other Notes: - If you have a tank that is already cycled or have a friend with a cycled tank that you trust is free from pathogens, you can seed your filter with cycled media to speed up the cycling process significantly. Depending on how much cycled media you add to your filter, you can almost instantly cycle your tank. - Do not clean the tank/filter or wipe down walls during the cycling process. Your beneficial bacteria are just beginning to establish and cleaning can disrupt this process. - Do not use cartridges in your filters. Please check out this link on how to set up your filter without cartridges http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/page/index.html/_/aquatic-equipment/simple-media-setup-for-hob-filters-r248 - Bacterial additives that claim to cycle a tank instantly are making false claims. Nothing will cycle your tank instantly, except perhaps the addition of already cycled media from another tank. These products get very mixed reviews. Some people have reported faster cycling time using these products, others have seen no effect. At best these products will increase cycling time, at worst they are a waste of money. They are not necessary for the cycling process, but will not hurt if you want to try them. Written by Koko's mod/helper team! This post has been promoted to an article
  5. Hey Guys, I am excited because this is my first ever post here! WAHOOO!! Anyway, I'm fairly new to fish keeping (serious fish keeping anyway). The other day I bought a lovely Lionhead Goldfish (1 1/2 inches at the moment) and put his in my 20g tank. However, I thought I could get away without having a filter in the tank! How wrong was I?! He makes so much mess for a small fish!!! So after just 24 hours I have bought a big filter that will filter nearly 3 times the size of the tank every hour. The thing that I'm worried about is that this filter won't have the beneficial bacteria needed to take out the ammonia and nitrites. Will he be okay? I'm doing daily 50% water changes to try and keep the water quality good until the filter arrives! HELP! Thanks.
  6. The Nitrogen Cycle Cycle: your fish produce ammonia. Beneficial bacteria live in you filter media (one reason why filtration is so important!). The bacteria take the ammonia and convert it into nitrite and nitrite into nitrate.
  7. Hi everyone, so I noticed a minor leak in my eheim 2217 canister last night and made the decision to remove the canister until I could fix the leak. This was so that I could sleep properly. Anyways, I will likely not have time to fix the issue for a couple of weeks. In the aquarium (65 gallons, 5 fancies), I still have a marineland c220 canister which has awful water flow and an internal fluval u4 which are both well established. The eheim 2217 holds the most media and has been in the tank since day 1 (the other 2 filters were subsequently added). Of course my concern is a cycle crash. I was fully cycled and had great metrics. 0 ammonia and nitrite and sub-20 nitrate. Any ways I can alleviate the risk of a crash until I can "reinstall" the eheim? Also, the current media in the eheim will sit dry, so I assume all the good bacteria creation gets destroyed...? This is a terrible situation as things were going well, but what can you do?? Any advice would be much appreciated. thanks in advance!
  8. So about 3 weeks ago I got really excited to start seeing nitrites, and hoping my cycling was coming to an end. In a matter of a few days my super high ammonia dropped to zero. And my nitrites skyrocketed. We're seeing both nitrites and a few nitrates (10-20) but they never get very high because of all the water changes we've been doing to keep the nitrites in check. For a few weeks we've been doing nearly daily 60% changes (sometimes a bit more) with almost no change in the nitrite level. It is still between 2-5ppm. Last night before the change it measured between 2-5ppm, and after a 90% change is measured .25ppm. It's the lowest it's been. I had hoped it was enough of a reduction to help us stay ahead of it. Well, not so much. This morning, 12 hours after the 90% change the levels are right back up where they were. Our tap ammonia is .5ppm, so I know we're putting more into the tank when we change the water, but would that (plus what comes from my fish) be enough to make it jump that high in just a 12 hours? I know the second stage of cycling takes longer, so do I just need to be more patient (haha hard for me) and keep changing the water, or is there something else I can do to help this along? It's been weeks!! We are dosing with Prime every time we change the water. I've got 2 small goldfish, 2.5 inches each maybe. They both appear to be fine, as a matter of fact, they love to play in the bubbles the water makes when we pour the new water into the tank. You all were so helpful in getting me to this stage, I'm hoping you have some great insight for this second step. Thanks for your input! J
  9. I'm just wandering roughly when do your nitrites appear? I haven't gotten to seed my tank (unfortunately) and I added ammonia so the reading was 2.5-3.0ppm, its been about 5 days? I have no nitrite reading whatsoever. Am I being too impatient? How long roughly do nitrite first appear?
  10. I voted very stressful. My tank is still not cycled. My fishies are arriving in middle of January. A moderator will arrange for someone to send me BB's in the mail. How stressful was it for you to cycle your first tank?
  11. Ok, I'm new here, and I've been reading other cycling threads to try to figure out my problem..but I need some specific advice. I've got a 75gal tank with 2 small goldfish, maybe 2 inches a piece. I've got a Magnum 350 canister filter, and a Penguin 350 bio-wheel. I didn't cycle before I put the fish in here (I know I know, rookie mistake) Goldies have been in the tank for 5 weeks as of tomorrow. The tank also has enough gravel to cover the bottom, and a hand full of plastic plants. We also have a bubble wand that extends the entire length of the back of the tank. Temp stays around 72F. The ammonia has gone WAY up, but now it's down around 1ppm. We test every day, and have been doing water changes either every day, or every other. Sometimes very large ones, and sometimes only 20-30 percent ones. Our tap ammonia is .25ppm. We condition with Prime. We've been doubling up doses to detox the ammonia levels every 24 to 48 hours. I know the levels are high, but the fish seem fine. They are never listless, they are always active and interested when you approach the tank. They eat, want to eat, beg to eat...we only feed them a few pellets once a day...this makes them sad. I'm hoping I've given you enough info on the tank... The problem is, it's been 5 weeks and we aren't seeing any nitrites or nitrates, and the ammonia doesn't seem to go down. Also, our pH is low...I'm thinking this is bad. We test the ammonia with the API drops kit. I had a 5 in one strip test for pH, nitrites, nitrates..I only used it when it had been a day or two since a water change. I've never seen a positive reading for nitrites or nitrates. I am on my way to the pet store to get a better nitrite/nitrate test. When I return I will do the daily water change. I'm hoping some of you nice people around here can give me some advice and point me in the right direction to get my tank cycled, you know, before the world ends. Thanks so much! J
  12. What should I do in this circumstance? I'm trying to cycle my tank with Safe Start. I've had the Safe Start in my tank for 24 hours. I want to go buy a Gh and Kh test kit. Called all around and NO ONE in Las Vegas will have a test kit till next Thursday. A lfs told me that Las Vegas water is 40 grains . (300ppm GH and 120ppm KH) How should I remedy the problem?
  13. I'm re-asking this question in this thread because I hid my question in someone else's thread and didn't get any answers. Plus my stand is coming coming Dec 4th so it is rather time sensitive. Dec 4th is when I will try and start my cycle. I need an answer before then on whether I should treat my current goldfish with prazi or not. Here is my awkward situation. I have two situations and two questions. Situation #1 The forty gallon that I'm going to cycled and get ready for my two rain garden babies( the fishes arrive in the mail Jan 14) is in my bedroom. I'm always in and out of my room with lights and everything. I have a ten gallon hospital tank with filtration that have yet to set up. The hospital tank , once set up, will be in my spare bedroom. I almost never enter my spare bedroom. My question once I get my fishes in the mail, should I just put them temporarily in my ten gallon for two days? The fishes will have time to rest. Situation #2 Right now I currently have one fish in a twenty gallon. I plan to start doing a fishless cycle now on my forty gallon tank and seed the bio media of 20 gallon at the same time.. By Jan 14 I hopefully should have one 40 gallon and a 20 gallon that is cycled.When my two rain garden goldfishes arrive on Jan 14th should I just put my two new goldfishes right into my 40 gallon or should I quarentine them first? If I do quarentine how should I quarentine? I've had my current goldfish for two months now. She shows no signs of illness. I never treated my current fish with prazi. Should I go ahead and treat my current goldfish now with Prazi in her 20 gallon before I begin my cycle?? I plan to seed the twenty gallon filter media while I'm cycling the 40 gallon so there could be cross contamination.
  14. Hi guys and gals, I'm fairly new to keeping fish and have been researching a lot lately. I'm aware of cycling a fish tank however I'm slightly unclear on how to do this. I know about "http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/FishlessCycle.html". The thing is I think I'm going to have major problems getting a hold of some pure ammonia. I've had a look at some other options such as adding fish food or a dead prawn/shrimp? What would my best option be? I'm thinking fish food. Can anyone share some insight as how I'd go about this. Obviously putting food in the tank lol, but how much per L, how often etc... Any help would be fantastic - I want to get my cycle started! Thanks muchly -Lisa
  15. i am cycling my 30 gallon tank with 2 fancy goldfish (if i had known about cycling, i would have done fishless), and last night, after 7 weeks of waiting, nitrite finally appeared, in an attempt to get the nitrite levels down i did a 40% water change and forgot to add dechlorinater. this morning my nitrite was at 0 again and my ammonia was really high. is there any way i can get my cycle back on track or does this mean i have to start again?
  16. Hello!! I finally finished my fishless cycle! rejoice! Anyway something popped in my mind that I would have never thought of.... PH.... ooh god. So, my city water is a 6.5 ph and I think fancies need 7.5 or so. Is that a huge deal? I have heard around the internet that its better to have a low stable ph, than a high unstable ph (chemicals and what not). I'm not sure how true that is. so am I ok? or can you recommend any (not plants, I dont have sufficient light sigh) decorations or substrate I can use to higher it? Thanks!
  17. This isn't a problem or a question, I'm just excited and you guys are the only ones who would understand, lol. I started cycling my 135 gallon tank on Wednesday night (09/26/12), with an established filter pad from a friend. I added 2 ppm of ammonia to the tank. Yesterday the ammonia was still at 2 ppm, and I was afraid all the bacteria on the filter pad might have died from being out of a filter for 3 days (it was in a container of water from their tank). And also my power was out for 9 hours yesterday. So last night I added some "Cycle" to the tank, because hey why not. Just got these results! :nana :nana :nana
  18. Started my cycle today. Ammonia reading is at 4ppm (around what the article on fishless cycle said) Will test again tomorrow to see what changes
  19. I am happy to announce that my 29 gallon goldie tank is finally cycled!! It took about 3 months of daily water changes and I can say I will never do a fish-in cycle again. I am so glad I was able to find Kokos and I probably wouldn't have been able to do it without the help of this forum My 40 gallon is getting close to the end of it's cycle, I added another filter so it slowed down the process a bit, but the nitrites are almost gone. Maybe I'll be able to have a social life again?? :alc Just had to share, I am pretty excited. Thanks everyone!!
  20. i'm planning on upgrading my goldfish to either a 3 or 4 ft tank very soon. it will have new filter & gravel. i will use some of the plastic plants from the old tank & some of the old filter media will go into the new filter. are there any rules to how long the new tank will take to cycle when adding established filter media etc. or is each tank different? will adding water from the old tank be beneficial in helping the new tank to cycle? i wanted to add my goldies to the new tank straight away if possible (matching ph & temp of course). do i need to test the water params daily & what would be the main indication of the need for a water change (ammonia??)? when all the levels are steady/good for a few days would this indicate my new tank has successfully cycled? sorry for so many questions, im sure its all been asked before
  21. Hey guys! Not to bother you with more "my tank won't cycle" crap but I've gotten myself super confused. There are so many variables that I can't figure out. Quick run down of my situation. I had two goldfish that I got before I knew about tank cycling. I was working hard to cycle the tank while keeping them healthy and happy. My sister babysat my fish for a weekend and my fish ended up dying under her care So now I'm trying to do a fishless cycle. - I have a 20 g tank with two filters running; a Topfin 10 & an Aquaclear 30. I have a mostly bare bottom with just a few larger rocks and an airstone. I use drops instead of strips to test the water parameters. - I've been trying to cycle for 4 weeks with no nitrites whatsoever - Ammonia has been consistently present but I don't know whats producing it if I'm not adding ammonia or even food product? It has been sitting at 8.0 (or higher I guess since the test kit tops out at 8.0), and I thought the higher the better and just read this week that it's better to have it sitting at 4.0- 5.0. So I did a 50 % water change with Prime and now it's at 4.0 - I also read that things happen faster at slightly higher temperatures so I've been trying to keep it at 80 F. But I also realized that it was at 88 F (gghh way to read a thermometer right :[ ) So I'm guessing that's too hot and probably wasn't helping so I got it turned back down - PH has been around 7.2 - I've been using Seachem Stability for the past 4 days out of desperation - Oh and I've got some brown particles (?) growing on things. Where is that coming from and is it bad? it tends to clump together. I guess I just want to know if I'm on the right track now. I'm just getting pretty impatient and frustrated with the process. And should I only do water changes to maintain ammonia at 4.0?
  22. Hi everyone I'm very new so please be kind! I was recently advised on and sold a 14L tank by pets at home (uk) which came with two free fish. I have two baby black moors both about 1 1/2 inch at present. I was disgusted to find out i had been given poor advice re tank size. I requested a refund but was told i should have read up myself first! Admittedly they were right! I have now purchased a fluvel Roma 125 uk litres with U2 filter. The tank is second hand, but in great condition. Ive set it all up, but its only been set up a few days, so isnt cycled. I have a testing kit. I am currently keeping the 14litre tank levels safe with daily 50% water changes. Ive had the fish 6weeks and so far they are doing great. My question is, is it safer to leave them where they are until the big tank is cycled, or should i move them into their new home now because of the risk to them in the small tank?! And how long will they be able to live in the 125 litre tank before i need an upgrade? They are lovely fish, herbie and louie, and louie is already eating from my fingers! I want to get it right for them Many thanks for any advice Kat
  23. Hi everyone! I hope someone can help me with this... It is my first experience with cycling and I'm starting to wonder if I'm doing it wrong... Fishtank- 26 gallon barebottom Planted- Lightly Heater- No (room temperature) Aeration- Yes (big bubble wall) So, on day 1, I dosed to 3 ppm of ammonia. It dropped to 0.50 ppm on day 11. I added ammonia to reach 3 ppm again every time it dropped lower. I started seeing nitrites on day 13 and it never dropped (5 ppm). I now add half the ammonia I used to. My ammonia breaks down in about 24 hours every time. I did a 40% to 45% water change two days ago, as my Ph was about 5...but no changes were observed. I know this was long to read, thanks ALOT! Am I doing this the wrong way? Should I keep adding ammonia or just leave it alone? Should I try adding a heater? I need help, please.
  24. Hi, everyone... 55 gallon tank I have 2 veiltails, and 2 fan tails and another veiltail in QT waiting to be brought to the mansion. I use API drops to test Tank has been established for more than two years Temp varies from 73 to 76 Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 PH stable at 8.2 Nitrates almost 0 (Test tint is a dark yellow, but not the orange it should be for 10) I have diligently tested my water for ammonia, nitrates and nitrites everyday and so far I have been getting 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and around 10 nitrates, but tonight, I'm still on 0 on ammonia and nitrites, but I have almost 0 nitrates... should I panic? Is that how a cycle crash happens? The fish are okay, but I am worried that something might happen, like suddenly having a nitrite or ammonia bump and losing them!! I do have Cycle at home if I need it, but I would love to know if this is how it starts and how it can be prevented, if at all. What brings it about? Am I just a worrywart? (I tend to be when it comes to my Goldies... I've lost too many)
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