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alistairw

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Everything posted by alistairw

  1. When it comes to salting your tank to 0.3% i will give you the method that i use and hopefully it will make it alot easier for you. Members on here will talk about teaspoons per gallon, the trouble is the UK and the US use different systems and your 72 litre tank is 19.2 US gallons or 15.8 UK gallons. Now which to use ???? Neither in my opinion An easier way of doing this i find is to add 1 gram of aquarium salt per litre to get you at 0.1% so 72 grams for your tank. You will need to repeat this 12 hours later by adding another 72 grams to get you to 0.2%. Finally another 12 hours after that add another 72 grams which will get you to 0.3%. By this point you will have 216 grams of dissolved aquarium salt in your tank. Another tip that i would suggest is to measure the height of your tank if you can. Then mark out exactly quarter, half and three quarters on the side of your tank in permanent pen if you have one, just a little dot will do. This will give you an exact reference point of changing water especially with salt in it so that you can work out exactly how much you need to add again should you need to change the water. When i add aquarium salt i use kitchen scales, kettle and 1 litre pyrex jug. Measure the salt and add to jug. Pour on boiling water and stir until fully dissolved. Top up with cold water and wait until it is the same temp as your tank. Hope this helps
  2. Large water changes are good ! As mentioned I highly recommend seachem prime. It's the only water treatment you will ever need. You have been given lots of good information and we can hopefully have your beautiful fish back to normal in no time
  3. Aquatics-online.co.uk is where i get my prime from in the UK and they will beat any other online sites price too. I don't think that we can get the liquid form Prazi in the UK from an online retailer, perhaps a vet but i couldn't be certain. Pets At Home use API Master tests kits and will test your water for free. API Aquarium salt is the brand that i use and most pet stores will have it.
  4. The 2 canister filters that i would recommend for a 30 gallon tank would be either the Eheim Classic 2217+ or the Fluval 406. Eheim 2217+ Actual output 208 gph - Power consumption 20w Pros - One of the most reliable filters ever made. Cons - Doesn't come with ceramic media. Fluval 406 Actual output 248 gph - Power consumption 23w Pros - Excellent reviews, alot better than the 405. Cons - More expensive than the Eheim, some stockists still unable to get spare parts.
  5. The Eheim filters tend to run on less power than the other brands so if your electricity bill is a worry Eheim are usually far more economical
  6. I also plan to get my head into the second two links but they are intense to say the least. Perhaps someone with a science background can put them into plain speak for us non sciency types
  7. I log into practical fishkeeping uk every now and again just to see what is going on in the aquatic world. They usually have great new articles. I stumbled across an article that seems to contradict everything that was considered to be the accepted norm for BB's. The article is new but refers to a paper from 2006 that i haven't seen or heard mentioned before. The main article is here and is user friendly. http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/content.php?sid=4780 The paper it refers to is here and it is not so user friendly if you are not a scientist http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1574-6941.2006.00170.x/pdf On top of this there is another article listed in the comments on PFK that is newer and is quite an eye opener. Of the 27 filters tested in the experiment over half of them contained no beneficial bacteria ! http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0023281#pone.0023281.s003 To read the bottom 2 you will need coffee, lots of coffee !
  8. I would recommend 40 gallons minimum for a single tail goldfish, 20 is fine for 1 fancy but not for a single tail.
  9. I have just ordered a large breeding net from amazon for my blue oranda as she is confirmed female and the other 2 fish are definately male and have been giving her a hard time this last week. I can pop her in the breeding net to give her a break from the attention of the other 2. A net would probably be too small for your fish but mine is small so it should do the trick. A divider would be a good idea to give her a break.
  10. I certainly wouldn't like to call it one way or the other just from looking at the pictures. If it is dropsy though something is causing it and that will need to be addressed asap. What medication do you have available ?
  11. Only the last picture looks like the scales are slightly raised to me. Was your ammonia reading prior to your 90% water change ? Is your filter running on the 20 gallon tub ?
  12. Efimech and substrat are fantastic media. I reckon a mild bleach solution would be better on the sponge rather than boiling water. Another way you could clean the tank is empty it and use about a cup full of neat bleach with a sponge and wipe down the whole inside of the tank. Fill it up and run the filter on it for a couple of hours. It doesn't have to be a great deal of bleach. In the UK the ammount of chlorine they add to tap water is strong enough to kill free swimming ich. It isn't seen as a viable treatment for ich though as it can also harm your fish.
  13. Welcome to the forum. My fancy goldfish tank is kept at a steady 72 F. 70-75 F would be fine for them. The beneficial bateria that will deal with the waste they produce prefer warmer water. If your tank does go to around 50-55 though i would hold off on feeding as their metabolism will slow down the colder it gets and you would need to bring the temperature back up very slowly as not to stress the fish (probably over a couple of days). I reckon that your fish will likely be less than 6 months but it's hard to tell and you would really need to know their history to accurately get an answer. What size is your tank and what filtration do you have running ? Goldfish are messy !
  14. First of all do you have a water changing system or do you use a tube and buckets ? I would fill the tank and let it stand for 24 hours once you have it in place as i would be wary of leaks. I would then set the filter up so it's running on the tank and then add around 2 litres of household bleach (un perfumed if you can get it) i use blue domestos and haven't had a problem with it. That will be a mild bleach solution in such a vast amount of water but it should do the trick. It would be helpful to know if this tank has been empty for a period or does the seller still have it filled ? If it has been empty for a while the less chance of bringing something unwanted in. I belive costia can survive dry but can't remember a time frame. Unless you have a tube brush you can use string, kitchen roll and something that will act as a weight. Pour boiling water down the tubes then use the weight attached to the string to get the string all the way through the tube. Roll a single sheet of kitchen roll up and tie to string, pull through tube. Job done Boiling water would clean your filter just as well as bleach. If you do use bleach though be sure to dechlorinate on completion. I use a large glug of seachem prime. That is a fantastic bargain you have there too
  15. This is the kind of stuff your friend should be writing down We need data and we need it now ! The tests were 2007/8 and that was back in the day when bio spira was around $40 and had to be kept in the fridge at all times. Personally i have used stability in 2 different tanks and on both occassions had no noticeable results.
  16. I would take all the gravel right out. The amount of beneficial bacteria will be very small and will not affect a cycled tank. Have you tried gel food ?
  17. The Prof of ichthyology is/was a Moderator on badmans tropical fish. She didn't believe that a product can take the normal fishless cycle of a tank from 8-12 weeks down to a number of days so she tested a few. She found that that bio spira reduced cycling time by 3 weeks and that the old nutrafin cycle actually increased the time to 15 weeks. I know that research has changed alot since the original findings but there are still companies that use the term 'instant' in their headlines to sell these products. It was thought the species associated with the conversion of ammonia into nitrite was Nitrosomonas europaea and that the species associated with the conversion of nitrite into nitrate were Nitrobacter, Nitrospina, and/or Nitrococcus. This belief was based upon the correct fact that these are the bacteria primarily responsible for maintaining the nitrogen cycle in soil. To this day, most bacterial additives (quick cycle products) available to aquarium hobbyist contain these bacteria. Unfortunately, it has been discovered that this is not the correct combination of bacteria that exists in our tanks. It’s no wonder that aquarist worldwide have come to the combined conclusion that these “quick cycle” products do not work. They (as in, the industry) are packaging bacteria that function in soil and selling it to us as something that works in water. It doesn’t. Nitrifying bacteria only divide once every 12-20 hours, it can take a significant period of time for the bacteria population to catch up to the amount of ammonia being produced. From scratch, it can take up to 8 weeks for these bacteria to fully colonize a tank in sufficient quantity to eliminate ammonia and nitrite. Another issue is that nitrospira (the bacteria that converts nitrite into nitrate) cannot multiply in water that contains significant concentrations of ammonia. There is even evidence suggesting that existing populations of nitrospira become dormant when ammonia is present in high concentrations. So if you are cycling a tank, the nitrospira bacteria will not even begin to colonize until the Nitrosomonas marina bacteria population is sufficient in size to bring ammonia concentrations under control. If you experience an ammonia spike in an established tank, you can expect a subsequent nitrite spike, with the nitrite spike being a “double-whammy” as the nitrite oxidizing bacteria may have to wake up from dormancy, then increase in population to account for the abnormally high nitrite levels.
  18. I am still highly dubious about any of these products and i still doubt that any of them actually work. Have read lab test reports from a professor of ichthyology who claims that they are all 'snake oils' and do not work. Anyhoo, have been digging a little deeper and this is one of the reports that i have found Research conducted by Timothy A. Hovanec (formerly of Marineland Labs, now the founder of Dr. Tim’s Aquatics) has identified the correct combination of autotrophic bacteria performing the nitrogen cycle in our tanks are Nitrosomonas marina (converts ammonia to nitrite) and Nitrospira (converts nitrite to nitrate). Only two “bacterial additive” products contain these bacteria, Dr. Tim’s Aquatics “One and Only” and Tetra SafeStart. United Pet Group has purchased Marineland. In the process, Dr. Tim bought out Marineland Labs (the creator of BioSpira, which is no longer available), forming “Dr. Tim’s Aquatics”. United Pet Group also owns Tetra. Tetra has subsequently released Tetra Safe-Start, which appears to be BioSpira repackaged in a form that does not require constant refrigeration (just as One and Only does not require refrigeration). It may be that availability of actual functioning product, containing the correct combination of living bacteria, may remain limited to these two products due to patent restrictions. Dr. Tim and the former Marineland Labs (now Dr. Tim’s Aquatics) hold the patent and United Pet Group/Tetra received co-ownership via their purchase of Marineland.
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