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Posts posted by alistairw

  1. That would not be a permanent solution. If you have algae on your plants it is because the conditions are perfect for the algae to grow. Your tank is probably receiving too much light. You could cover your tank with a blanket for 3 days, leave the light off for that period. Once you take the blanket off all the algae should be gone :)

  2. Hi Alistair,

    How are you? It's been quite a while. I hope all is well with you. We need updates of your baby! Koko and TD have welcome a baby of their own as well. :)

    The hole does look very clean and does not appear to be infected, and it doesn't look like any HITH that I've ever seen. Has it gotten better since you've posted?

    Hey Alex, hope you are well. It's strange being back on Kokos after only 8 months away and not recognising a lot of the new members. The BN Plec is still going about business as usual. I will be doing large regular water changes and I started dosing with melafix today. I will post some new pictures of Emma when I get a minute :)

  3. For Scottish members. I have an Aqualantis 150 Litre Cube tank (39 US Gallons) plus Eheim Air pump and 2 air difussers for sale for £150. I also have an Eheim Pro III 2080 Canister filter for sale, this has a max flow rate of 1700 lph but with media fitted 1210 lph. Filter comes with all media and tubing. £150 also.

    These are pick up only. PM me for more details.


  4. £20 is not really going to be enough for a goldfish filter, even if you can get one second hand. You could try ebay or gumtree for a second hand one. I would recommend Eheim, Rena or Fluval. The stingray filter i would avoid, they really aren't designed for goldfish although some filtration is always going to be better than none.

  5. The only thing that stands out to me is that you are underfiltered. With an Eheim caninster i would suggest that you are processing your whole tank 4-6 times per hour. I don't think that your filter is capable of any more than 2 times per hour and that is being generous. If you can leave your water for 3 weeks and still have a reading of 0,0,40 i am beyond impressed. Also can i ask why you remove your fish for a water change ?

    4 inches of gravel is quite alot. Do you dig in to it with each water change ?

  6. In an large outdoor eco system like a lake or large pond i can see this being a big factor. However, in a small artificial eco system like an indoor tank i can't see the difference between and newly cycled filter and a long running one. If the newly cycled filter is for example keeping a 60 gallon tank with 4 fancy goldfish at 0, 0, <20 each week then 2 years later that same filter is keeping the same tank 0, 0, <20 is it really so much better due to the fact that it is well established ?

  7. A filter that has just been colonised with BB's and is capable of housing enough bacteria to deal effectivley with the amount of ammonia and nitrite will be just as good as a filter that has been running for years.

    Not in my new tank. :no: I put two layers of new ceramic rings in my Fluval 405, and I put a bag of "cycled" rings on each level. I also filled the underwater filter biomedia chamber with all "cycled" ceramics rings. My 55 gallon was cycled. The new tank still is not.

    I think that you misunderstand me. I am talking about 2 fully cycled filters. The one that has only just been cycled will be just as good as the one that has been running for much longer.

  8. Bacteria do not die because the food supply runs low. After all, a population of bacteria can run through a food supply pretty fast. So they slow down their rate of metabolism and stop dividing. In a healthy growing population of bacteria, most will be operating at less than 100% efficiency. Add one of the limiting factors, be it nutrients, oxygen, the right temperature, or whatever, and the population is able to boost it's metabolism before it increases its number. I think that could be called a "strong cycle."

    You might like to read this article: http://www.drtimsaqu...ria-arent-human The guy is peddling a product, but he's talking good microbiology.

    I know that various factors affect the efficiency of autotrophic bacteria. PH is a big factor with BB's being almost 100% efficient at PH 8.3 dropping to only working at 50% at PH 7 and below PH 6 they stop functioning and reproducing. Temperature also plays a big part with 78-86 F being the best range. At 64 F BB's are again only working at 50%. Above 120 and below 32 F kills them dead. Taking away their food source would have a much more dramatic effect i think. As for a strong cycle, once a tank is fully cycled it will get no stronger or weaker providing all the factors remain constant. A filter that has just been colonised with BB's and is capable of housing enough bacteria to deal effectivley with the amount of ammonia and nitrite will be just as good as a filter that has been running for years.

  9. I don't believe that there is such a thing as a "strong cycle". This is a goldfish myth just like over filtering. Your tank is either cycled or it isn't. The amount of beneficial bacteria in your tank is in direct relation to the amount of ammonia being produced in the tank. If for example you have 1ppm of ammonia being produced daily then beneficial bacteria will multiply until they are at the concentration where they can process all of that ammonia. There will not be any spare beneficial bacteria hanging around on the off chance that more ammonia comes along. If the ammonia produced by your tank reduces to only .5ppm daily (perhaps as a result of the loss of a fish) then this will have a direct impact on the amount of BB's in the tank. 50% will die off due to lack of ammonia required to exist. Likewise if you suddenly increase the amount of ammonia in your tank (adding a new fish) it can take some time for your BB's to multiply to the level able to process the additional waste. Don't forget that even on an established filter BB's only have a certain life span. As the old BB's die new ones have to multiply to replace them. This is happeneing 24/7.

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