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Kokos Goldfish Forum


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  1. Hello again! I noticed a small whitish thing on my black moor a while ago, and when I looked more closely, it appeared to be a very tiny, clear/whitish worm! It looked much like a nematode I thought, and was just moving across the back of the fish. I have noticed others occasionally on the glass of the tank, but never any others on the fish. Perhaps I would notice more in the tank if they were not so tiny! What should I do, if anything, to get rid of these guys? I am going to take one in on Monday to look at it under a nice scope and try to identify it, but I figured I would ask here while I was waiting, to see if anyone has had the same issue. thanks! V
  2. The lights on my tank were actually off for ten days, but have been back on their normal schedule since Sunday night. I typically don't turn the light on until the evening when the tank is obviously dark, and it gets turned off before I go to bed. I was always told not to siphon out all of the gravel at one time, because you wanted the good bacteria build-up. So you say I should go ahead and siphon 100% of it? I suppose that makes more sense, especially considering the fact that many people have bare-bottom tanks with no gravel/build-up at all. I will try siphoning all of the gravel from now on to see if that makes a difference. thanks for your response! Brit
  3. right now I have a fifteen gallon, and the heater says 50 Watts. You may be right about the factory setting - the tank is a very steady 80 degrees. It occasionally dips towards 78 degrees, but other than that it seems to be stable. I tried another 50 Watt heater that I have in here, and it also kept the tank at 78-80 degrees. so it looks like I need to buy a new heater? I have hopes of upgrading to a thirty gallon once I move into college, and so I suppose this heater would work better in that tank, but I'm not sure of the tank size limits my potential schools have. The school I am currently at (residential high school) has a 20 gallon limit, which I am told is twice what most colleges allow. Sooooo, I guess I will have to go ahead and purchase a smaller heater, unless you think it is ok for my fish to live at 80 degrees. What size would you recommend for this 15 gallon tank? thanks for your response! Brit
  4. Hello! I made gel food a month or two ago, loosely using a recipe I found on this forum. My goldies love it, and the corydoras goes nuts for it. But I have noticed a boom in what I think is bacteria since I started feeding this food (lots of brown gunk buildup in the filter and on everything else). I still do 25% weekly water changes and siphon out the gravel (I never siphon it 100% clean), but the gunk is grows and builds up everywhere. I understand that the beneficial bacteria in the brown gunk are good, but these amounts seem a bit rediculous. Perhaps I am wrong? I think it is caused by the gel food. The recipe I used called for a small chunk of salmon, but didn't specify any way to prepare the salmon. I skinned it and threw it into the blender raw. Should I have cooked it somehow first? Since I store the gel food in the freezer (keeping one brick of it in the fridge for feeding during the week), there isn't any bacteria growing in there, but perhaps it grows on waste food particles in my tank? Does anyone else have this problem? The gel food has virtually eliminated all the buoyancy issues my fish were having, and my fish love it, so I hope the food isn't the problem here. thanks! Brit
  5. Hello again! For those of you who may remember, Loki got over his dropsy just fine so I am trying to keep the water in my tank at 74*, mostly for the pleco (I live in a dorm room and it is often very cold in the room, making the tank way too chilly). I bought a new Top Fin tank heater that was the proper size, and it worked swell for a week so I threw the packaging and receipt away. But now it isn't working properly. It seems to only want to keep the tank at 80*, no matter how low I turn the dial. I have it on the lowest setting, and the stupid heater still insists on 78*-80*, even though 74* is supposed to be the middle setting on this one. Has anyone else had any problems with their heaters doing this? I can't return it, and I'd hate to have to spend the money on a new one, but that might be the case. thanks for the help! Brit
  6. yay for snails I love my big ramshorn - he's so fun to watch! I also keep "all" fish - well over four hundred gallons - I have different breeds of goldfish, various tropicals (fancy guppies, barbs, etc.), a lone red zebra cichlid (rescued from a toilet!), some fancy plecos (gold nugget, rubber lip), cory cats, and lots of native IL (U.S.) fish (longnose and shortnose gar, white crappie, bluegill, yellow bullhead catfish, Gambusia sp.). Nice to see some other people who keep U.S. natives, as well Brit
  7. Great news! Loki appears to be getting better! He is still pretty bloated looking, but his scales have laid down almost to their normal state - you can tell from some angles that they are still a wee bit raised. I'm psyched! Today was the last day of the Maracyn2 treatment, and I have just enough Maracyn2 left for two more days of treatment - can I go ahead and treat for two more days? Should I treat with a round of Maracyn1 now? How long do I have to maintain the epsom salt level? I'm sooo happy that he seems to be getting better! I hope I'm not jumping the gun. Brit
  8. Thank you for your responses! I think I am going to have the metro-med ordered. The 24-hour comment was made because of a thread I read earlier - the poster said to treat with Maracyn2, and then do the water change and wait 24 hours, and then start treating with the Maracyn1. I suppose it is not an issue, because by the time I am able to get new Maracyn1 (since mine is expired), the Maracyn2 treatment will be done. Should I be doing water changes during the Maracyn treatments? I was going to wait until the treatment was done (five day treatment). There are only two days of the Maracyn2 treatment left, then water change, then I can start with a Maracyn1 treatment, and hopefully by then I will also have the metro-med food! thanks again, guys! Brit
  9. Hello, I first have to thank you guys for all of your help - I've been reading these forums off and on for a while, and I am learning a lot! I am currently treating a fish for dropsy, and am a bit confused with the epsom salt treatment. I understand the 1/8 teaspoon per five gallons, but is this a one-time thing? Or do I have to do this more than once? My black moor, Loki, is the one with the dropsy. It is a strange dropsy though - he is swollen, but not much, and the scales that are most noticably pine-coning are the ones on his chest and down his right side. Nobody has told Loki he has dropsy, because he is behaving and eating like normal - lively and begging for food! His only dropsy symptoms are body swelling and some pine-coning. I can't tell if his eyes are swollen, because he is a moor - they don't look any different than usual. I'm on the third day of Maracyn2 treatments, and I put a heater in the tank last night to raise the temp from 70*F to 80*F, though the heater is a bit faulty. I can't get to a store to replace it though, so right now I am having to watch it closely. I have doubled aeration and am running the filter with no carbon. The pH is about 7.1, no ammonia, no nitrates, and I can't test for hardness or nitrites because the kits given to me were expired. I soaked some Jungle anti-bacterial pellets in water last night until they were mushy, and then fed those to the fish. I usually feed them a home-made gel food and cucumber since they are very prone to buoyancy issues. Should I continue feeding this medicated Jungle food? They don't have other medicated foods in stores here (in fact, it took a long time for me to find the Jungle stuff), and I am worried that ordering it will take too long. Is it necessary to treat with Maracyn 24 hours after the Maracyn2 treatment? I checked my Maracyn1 and it expired 7/05, so I think I need to throw it away, and try to get some new stuff (if necessary). I read in one post of someone using Jungle fungus clear for dropsy - I have some of this, so should I use it, or is it not a good idea to mix it with the Maracyn2? I must say, I panicked a bit when I came back from class and saw his scales pine-coning, but his lack of other symptoms has me feeling a bit optimistic. He certainly hasn't gotten any worse, though I can't say if he has gotten any better either. From what I understand, I can expect healing to take a while (if he pulls through). I appreciate your help - after reading some of the threads on here, I feel like I have a better idea of what to do and expect, but I needed some clarification on these points. Thank you! Brit
  10. Thanks for your thoughts guys! I can't have a bigger tank in my room - we have a 20 gallon limit, and I have no place to put a 20 gallon, which is why I have the strange 15 tall. Table-space is limited, so I have to go up rather than out. My goldfish were about the size of a quarter when I got them, and the tank was plenty large for them. They have to wait for a bigger tank - most colleges have a rediculous limit of 20 gallons. But after that, I plan on getting a 40 breeder size for them. I use those for my geckos, and I really like that size and shape. They get a 20 long over the summer - the 15 tall is just for the 9 months that I live in a dorm. They don't seem cramped at all, and like I said, the water is perfect. I will get a new nitrates test kit if you think that is really the problem - maybe for some reason my test isn't functioning properly? I know my hardness tests are not reading properly - I have tested many different water sources and they always read the same - so those got thrown away. Have you guys ever had your chemical tests go bad? These tests didn't have expiration dates on them anywhere, even though they were made by Tetra. I do a 25% water change every weekend, and sometimes I do two smaller water changes in one week instead of the 25%. There isn't gunk in the gravel - it seems to be hiding down in the UGF. So, I think I will take out the UGF, and sink the air stones some other way. My dad is one of those aquarists who swears by the UGF, which is why he got it for me for this tank, but my personal use of them is off and on. I think, like you said, they don't work well for dirty goldfish. All the other tanks I have with UGF are tropical. I am having troubles getting my silt substrate established in my Sirens tank, so I know it definitely will not work in my goldfish tank. Good point about the goldfish eating the plants - I will try some elodea, since it is so cheap. If they (or the snail) eat it all, I guess it will just be a healthy snack! Thanks for the input! silly messy goldfish - oh well, you have to love them Vacado
  11. Hello! This is my first time posting here, so I'll start with a brief introduction! My name is Brit, and I am a senior living at a residential high school in Illinois (USA), near Chicago. I am responsible for running the greenhouse, and so I have filled it, along with my dorm room, with aquariums! I currently have well over 400 gallons here to tend to, which keeps me busy but quite happy as well I have been having lots of problems with my tank of goldfish over the years, and I can't seem to find any answers to my questions. I have been trying to chip away at what appears to be swim bladder disease. My fish get this off and on, but it seems to effect the moor and the fantail much more than the ranchu. I tried soaking their flakes and pellets, but that never had any impact, so I made a gel food by combining a few recipes I have seen on this forum. I hope to see results of this within the next week or so. And now I am trying to tackle the biological filtration. All of my water quality readings come out perfectly, but I am thinking there is a bacterial issue in my tank. I am wondering if this is caused by the under gravel filter, since I only have a powerful bubbler on it and not powerheads. Some people swear by UGF, but others shun their use. I can hook up powerheads, or I can just take the UGF out. I have a hanging box filter, too, that is running, so I think I just used the UGF as a method for keeping the air hoses in place, anyways. I have noticed a lot of gunk build-up under the UGF, which I am sure can't be good. I was wondering if I could then remove the UGF and replace my gravel with silt from the on-campus research pond. I am autoclaving large quantities of the benthos as a substrate for my Sirens intermedia tank, and I should have plenty left over to coat the bottom of my 15 tall goldfish tank. I am autoclaving it to get rid of any living organisms, so that is not a concern. Even though my fish are small, I am worried they will make a mess of a dirt aquarium. They do a lot of rock-digging as it is, so will a dirt bottom just constantly cause a clouded tank and soiled filter? With the Sirens, I have a Magnum HOT 250 with the intake near the surface of the 30 gal., which I hope will prevent the filter from becomming clogged. Could I do this with the goldfish? I have run balanced aquariums before with dirt bottoms and plants, and never needed a filter for them (just something for aeration and water movement), because there was a complete cycle. Since goldfish are so dirty, though, I don't think this would work. Plus, my ramshorn would probably love for me to fill the tank with yummy plants. maybe sticking with gravel would be a better idea? What are your opinions? I really want my fish to feel better! Thanks! I love reading posts on your forum Brit
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