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About erk39

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  1. Hey I'm not sure if this thread is even still active but I unfortunately haven't been on the site for awhile and am just now, two years later, reading all the responses. Looks like for some, I touched a nerve. Having read them, I would just like to clear up a couple things... 1) I never said anything negative about the mods or the helpers. I think they do as good a job as humanly possible for a site that is so active. This site is, generally speaking, one of the most civil and informative forums I've ever visited. I never meant to imply that anyone was being harrassed, either. I was quite suprised to see how many people came to the mods' defense, when I didn't think I had said anything that needed defending against. I guess I will chalk it up to the fact that everyone cares about the site so much, they take any perceived criticism of it personally. 2) I never intended to imply that all or most threads in the forums were like this. These were reltively speaking, isolated events. However, at the time of my first post, I had noticed a spike in it. I thought pointing it out might help keep misinformation from being spread and help people to see things through the eyes of a newbie. I like this community and I know everyone on here means well. Just wanted to make that clear.
  2. Well, unfortunately, I don't have any advice for you that hasn't already been given. But I did notice that you said you are ashamed of all the mistakes you have already made. I just wanted to tell you you shouldn't feel ashamed. We've all been there. Unfortunately, even a lot of people selling goldfish these days don't know how to take care of them...The result is a most of us learn the hard way. At least you are being proactive and trying your best to fix the situation. With any luck, your fish will be just fine! Also it's great that your parents are going to buy a tank for your fish. I've seen other kids on this forum with parents who just don't "get it." Best of luck.
  3. I don't know about the rest of you, but testing for nitrates has always been one of the most frustrating parts of taking care of my gfs. To me, 20, 40 and 80 ppm all look about the same on the test. That's why I was so excited when I was surfing the web and saw the new Hanna nitrate tester; it measures nitrate turbidity to give you a digitial readout of your nitrate levels, with accuracy to 0.1ppm! The only drawback- it costs nearly $200.00, and you have to buy reagants for it as well. Oh well, I guess it's back to the old-fashioned method for me. At least it's extra motivation to keep the nitrates well under 20.
  4. That's exactly what I've been trying to say! Thank you for putting it so succinctly. Sorry if I'm being redundant on a post where we are talking about the importance of not being redundant
  5. Nenn- It sounds like you are on the right track with writing down the instructions, and I think there is some other good advice here about feedings. One thing I would definitely stress is if possible, teach your roomate to do the changes and feedings before you leave. I learned the hard way that written instructions, however complete, can be mis-read, misinterpeted or just plain misplaced. Still have the written directions as back-up, and I like your idea of marking the tank, too. Also, have you considered Bio-Spira to speed along the cycling of your new filter? It's a little expensive but it may help to establish your cycle before you leave. Might take away some of your stress and worry. As regards your tank, I personally wouldn't worry about it as long as it is doing ok now and there are no leaks or obvious cracks. If the tank is gonna go, it's gonna go whether you're there or not. So no use worrying too much. Good Luck!
  6. I totatlly agree that the mods and helpers are doing a great job, and that most people on this sight are well-intentioned at heart. I'm sorry I don't have more concrete data (I haven't been tracking posts), but I do think that if you keep an eye out for related posts, where someone is reluctant to get 10G per gf (usually b/c it's just not practical for them right now) you'll see a LOT of responses telling them they need to, and often implying that they can't solve their other problems without it. The individual responses usually aren't mean-spirited, but taken as a whole it can seem like the person is getting attacked. I just think people need to be careful and make sure that a) they are giving accurate info and b) they aren't beating people (especially newbies coming to Koko's for help), too hard over the head with a stick I'd hate for a fish to die, or a person to have a bad fish experience because they were scared off of Koko's before they got a chance to get help and become comfortable here.
  7. It seems like there has been an increased amount of discussion about the 10G rule over the last few weeks. And while a lot has been said, I think there are a few things that have been overlooked, or that maybe need to be looked at from a different perspective. First let me say this: I agree with the 10 gallon rule. From personal experience, I think 15G per gf is even better. And more if you can get it. That being said, I've seen some statements about the rule that I feel are either downright wrong, or at least counterproductive. Note: I have saved my most important point for last (#3). Here are my thoughts: 1) "It is impossible to cycle a 5G tank because it is too small." I saw this statement once when I first joined the sight. Maybe someone just mis-spoke or wasn't thinking, but this statement is just plain false. I know because when I first got gf I had a 2.65G tank and, once I knew what I was doing, I managed to get it cycled in a few weeks, and this without any Biospira or other such products. I have since managed to re-cycle it twice to use it as a short-term QT tank for small goldfish. 2) "A large tank is actually easier to clean and maintain than a small tank." I've seen this posted several times. While it's not exactly false, I think it is misleading. Yes, it is true that you can get away with less frequent water changes and maintenance procedures on a big tank. However, when you do them, they can be big projects. It takes me about a half hour to do a proper water change, and can be much longer if I am cleaning ornaments, scrubbing down algae and/or cleaning out the filter. On my smaller tank, a water change takes about 5 minutes and I only need bring one small water container to the tank. For me, I find it easier to do 5 minutes daily or every-other day as part of my normal routine than I am to do a big project once a week. 3) "You must get the right size tank, now, now, now!!!!!!!" Ok, it's not usually stated that way, but how many times have you seen a newbie looking for help end up receiving post after post after post telling them that they need to get a bigger tank and sometimes even arguing with the newbie if they balk at the idea. Yes, it is important to educate people, but I think we need keep in mind that some people just can't or won't get the bigger tank, and slamming them for it is just going to turn them off and won't help their fish get better now. Keep in mind that a some of these people are 12 or 13 years old with no money. When I was that age, I would have found it really difficult to tell my parents I needed a bigger tank when they just paid $100+ for a new one. So I guess that's it. I don't know if people will agree with me or not, but I just wanted to put my two cents in and give people something to think about.
  8. erk39

    Python Tip

    Draining tank water with a python "clean and fill" is great, but filling with one can seem like more trouble than it's worth, because it can be difficult to get water temp. right, and you either have to hope the chlorine won't hurt or treat the whole tank with dechlorinator. That's why I've devised this system: I drain old tank water normally. Then I place empty buckets next to the tank, and fill them with water temp. as close to temp. as possible. I then treat the water for chlorine, and if I got the water temp. right, I pour it right in. If the temp is too far off, I just let the buckets sit for awhile until the temp. is closer and then pour them in. There is still some bucket handling, but at least you don't have to deal with dirty water buckets and carrying the clean buckets to the sink. Overall, I find this a lot easier and faster than the traditional bucket method, but less worrisome than filling straight out of the python.
  9. Just a quick note to say that I think Blue is completely better (knock on wood)- I haven't seen her bottom sit in a couple days, and her appetite is good and swimming is strong.
  10. Much Better!- sorry for not posting. Blue still does some bottom sitting, but it seems to be less every day (about 10% of the day, down from 80%). Her swimming seems stronger, too. Also, she never stopped eating but I think her appetite has increased- she swims straight up to the tank when I open the top for feeding. She is not 100% yet, but has improved daily for the last few days, so I am finally convinced she is on her way to recovery. For now I plan to just keep doing water changes to keep a close eye on the params and hope for the best. I know I said this already, but thanks again for helping me out with this. None of my family or friends knows much about fishkeeping, so Koko's is the only place I have to go when there's a problem.
  11. Welcome back! From what I've seen on this board, a lot of people (if not most) still consider progold the best. I use Hikari because it has a good reputation, is a bit cheaper and I can get it at my LFS. Hope this helps!
  12. I could be wrong, but from what I understand cycle is a product that simply contains bacteria to help jumpstart the initial cycling of your tank. This in theory will help with ammonia and nitrites, because once your tank is properly cycled these will go naturally go to zero. However, it doesn't bind ammonia or nitrites, and doesn't do much of anything for nitrates. If your looking to detoxify these while you're waiting for your tank to cycle, you'll need something else. I've always used prime, but I've heard Amquel Plus does pretty much the same thing as prime if you can get that in your area. There are other brands, too, but I can't think of them right off the bat. In theory, once your tank is cycled, and if you are doing regular water changes and testing your water parameters to make sure nothing is out of whack, you should then be able to get away with just the chlorine remover.
  13. Wow. I have no idea what most of those posts said! But I will say this- your English is better than a lot of native speakers I know, so don't sweat it! Out of curiosity, is prime available in stores in Canada, or only from the internet? My Sister-in-law and her family are possibly moving to Canada.
  14. Thanks for the info awrieger. Have you found it to be reliable? Also, how often do the batteries need replacing?
  15. Well I don't leave it depressed all the time---that would be silly! But I would like the ability to limit flow- for feeding and stuff- and also temporarily to help determine if tank current could be what's causing my fishy problems. But I don't because of the grinding noise.
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