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Slugger

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Everything posted by Slugger

  1. Keep us posted, I'm interested to see the results of your KH/GH tests. In the past I have had trouble with low KH water which I had to buff up with sodium bicarbonate, which also raised my pH. Don't have these troubles now!! I have water that furs up the kettles Regards Slugger:)
  2. Hello, Interesting reading, but I don't quite understand it The hardness of water (alkalinity) doesn't have to be linked to pH, ie you can have hard water with low pH or high pH. What a water softner does is mess around with the alkalinity of you water. This means that by hardening or softening your water you won't necessarily be moving the pH. I believe that water softening (adding salts) can both move your pH up and down. I found a link on wikipedia that explains it a bit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salt_(chemistry) Hope this is useful. Regards Slugger
  3. Hello, This makes for very interesting reading!! Well done and keep it up. Don't know much about this, how about potassium permangenate, or other pool disinfectants? Regards Slugger
  4. Hello, One thing that gets rid of nitrates are anaerobic bacteria, often cultured in denitrificating equipment, or in a plenum beneath the gravel. In the marine hobby, they are commonly used together will micro-organisms in coral "liverock" to reduce or get rid of nitrates. Don't know what's going on with your tank though, coz it doesn't look anaerobic!! Regards Slugger
  5. Hello, Cometgirl is quite right that epsom salts are used differently. As I understand it, different foms of salt, chlorides, bicarbonates etc will in solution produce different pHs. I can't remember if epsom salts will cause pH to go down, but if that is what you have found, then it could be the case. I'll have to do some more reading to find out what causes the different pHs. (chemistry lessons are a bit hazy ) I'm guessing it is when the salt molecule temporarily splits into ions when in solution, that it affects hydrogen ions, but am not sure. Could anyone else help? Regards Slugger
  6. Hello, I have attached a link to a pretty good article. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2004/review.htm I don't run phosban on my marine tank, but live with a bit of algae Hope this helps Slugger
  7. Hello, I agree with Erinaceous that a uv shouldn't really affect the bacteria in an established filter. However when you start up a filter, you are trying to grow a colony that muliplies faster than it dies off. I would feel that keeping the uv off might help a little bit when starting up and you don't have much bacteria. I haven't tested this, but it is just a feeling. In any case, it doesn't hurt to switch it off for a week because: a) if algae/green water appears, it doesn't hurt the start up and will disappear once you restart the uv b) parasites are not being intoduced to your tank because you are not adding new fish (hopefully?) c) similarly harmful bacteria are not being imported to your tank at this time. If you are worried about dormant parasites/bacteria previously suppressed by uv then flaring up when you switch it off, you could maintain water quality through water changes. Just my tuppence. Regards Slugger
  8. I found this useful document published by the san francisco public utilities commission, linked below: http://sfwater.org/Files/FAQs/removal.pdf Apparently there are a few methods to remove chloramine, and it will dissapate eventually from standing water. Hope this is of some use. BTW, does anyone know of a test for chlorine and chloramine? Regards Slugger
  9. Hello, An alternative to dechlorinator would be to "age" your water for about a week. You could fill a bucket and run an airstone to keep the water agitated, which will help to disperse chlorine. Not so sure about chloramine, so will look it up and get back to you. Regards Slugger
  10. Hullo Yellow, I've found that no matter how much you feed 'em, they are always hungry!! Goldfish, like carp are natural scavengers and will keep swimming and eating, so provided you are feeding regularly and in small quantities, say a thumbnail or teaspoons worth per medium sized goldfish, I wouldn't be too worried. Regards Slugger
  11. Hullo, I had a quick read of you other threads, you seem to have been very unfortunate It might be worthwhile to check your water parameters again just to make sure. With so many water changes, there is a chance your good bacteria has been disturbed. Your basic tests for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH would be good. Regards Slugger PS Good luck!
  12. Unfortunately, it's coming up to midnight in the UK and I have to work tomorrow I'll try and take a pic over the weekend and post it. I'm also trying to get a pufferfish this Saturday for my marine tank, so I may not be able to. Regards Slugger
  13. Thanks for the info. I have also used cat wormer pills that contain praziquantel. You have to look carefully at the ingredients to make sure it contains this medication. The problem with prazi in pill form is that it is nearly impossible to dissolve I can't remember the brand, but will keep an eye out for it next time. Regards Slugger
  14. Amynmitchell, Good to hear that your pH is normally stable, things should be hunky dory. I only really used to test kH right at the start. Once you know your tap pH and kH, you only really need to regularly monitor pH. (Unless you get lazy like me). Pixiefish, Yup I got pond with 12 fish in it, mostly koi and some goldfish. My biggest fish is 3 feet long!!! I do miss keeping fancy goldfish though... Regards Slugger
  15. Hello Pixiefish, wow Mod and so many posts!! Good to be back and see some familiar people around. :alc I may have got my numbers a little wrong on the ppm because it was a long time since I buffered goldfish. Please do correct me I now keep koi, which I don't buffer, and marines, which I buffer to about 350. Regards Slugger
  16. Hello, Could you tell us the nitrite and ammonia readings? This will help to answer your question and lead to solving your water quality issues I'm guessing that either: 1. Filtration isn't up to it because it can't process the fish waste quickly enough from ammonia to nitrites to nitrates; or 2. Filtration is up to it, but you don't have enough bacteria growing in your filter. How long have you had these water problems and how exactly do you clean? Orandaa has given very good advice on cleaning with tank water only. Apologies for so many questions, but even partial answers will help find a way. Regards Slugger
  17. Hello Chelsea, Some sound advice from A Penguin. In the meantime, without test kits, I'd suggest you change a quarter to a third of the water every day or other day. Don't use fresh tap water, but if possible aerate it the night before in a bucket if you have a small air pump. If not, at least try and get water from a sprinkler tap, like a shower. Agitating the water will at least help to get rid of the chlorine, but won't do much for chloramines (Bad for fish). Keeping the water overnight will help temperatures balance and match your tank. Lightly rinse the filter media in old tank water every 1-2 weeks will help. Hope this advice helps. Regards Slugger PS Good to see you on the boards again.
  18. Hello, Is there a conversion given in the test leaflet? It's just that I'm used to ppm There is another scale, but I'm not familiar with it. dKH?? I used to buffer my water with baking soda to 200-300 ppm. Hope this is some help. Regards Slugger
  19. Thanks for the info!! I'll check out my local to see if they are still on special offer. Regards Slugger
  20. Hi, I'm more than happy to help, but my knowledge of treatment of diseases is very limited I'm afraid. In this case the most important would be ammonia and nitrites, but knowing these parameters would knock out only one or two possible causes. It looks like the testing kits are a bit expensive in your parts, so I'd put an order for a master kit that has liquid tests for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and fresh water pH. While you're waiting for that to arrive, I'd try and get some info on your tap water. Is it hard or soft? Is it drinkable from the tap? If your water is hard, then there's a good chance that pH isn't a problem. If it's drinkable from the tap, then we don't have to worry about impurities. Can you get hold of a conditioner that removes chloramine as well? My idea is that if you can change at least half the water every two days, then any build up of ammonia, nitrites or nitrates can hopefully be limited. Of course your water parameters may be OK right now, but we won't know until the tank is tested. I would continue with the salt treatment. How much salt did you add? Can anybody else give ideas on short term treatment of tail rot? Good luck Slugger
  21. Hi, I haven't used this product, but I have tended to keep my marine and freshwater additives separate. A lot of the time, marine supplements have added minerals that may be unsuitable for fresh water. I always mix before adding to the tank. Hope this is some use. Slugger
  22. Hi Dana, I've not used many fish meds because I mainly trust to salt, but I'm sure there are members on this site who will be able to help you with diseases and treatment. Apart from the marks on your fish, could you perhaps give the water parameters of your tank? Things like ammonia, nitrite, and pH to start with. This info would be really useful to help identify the underlying cause of distress. If the water parameters are not what they should be, I don't think any treatment you add will help your poor fish. Good luck, and do post back. Slugger
  23. Hi, I was in HK a few months ago. I don't recall seeing gel food, but try asking in several of the shops with fridges along goldfish market (Tung Choi Street). Rather than getting gel food, there is a wealth of "fresh" or frozen. Fresh as in livefoods, insects, and frozen as in vitamin enhanced worms, shrimp, seamonkeys etc. I used to get some really expensive Hikari pellets that were enhanced with beneficial bacteria. I think they were probiotics, but I can't remember. Good luck Slugger
  24. Hi again, There is a pinned note at the top of this tanks and equipment forum that gives a lot of useful info. Slugger
  25. Hi Goldenlady, I have previously used a coralife uv on my cannister. You need to connect the outflow from your eheim to the uv intake. The coralife should come with adaptors to fit your particular pipe diameter. Then you can connect some tubing to the outflow from the uv into your tank. One thing to bear in mind are the flow rates for effective sterilisation. Your choice of steriliser will mean that a pretty low flow rate is needed. I believe it would be a lot lower than the output rating of your cannister. To get around this you can install a T-junction between the UV and cannister to divert excess flow from the UV and into the tank. I'll have a look to see if I can find some diagrams. Hope this helps. Slugger
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