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ranchu_man

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Everything posted by ranchu_man

  1. You can get the sleeves from Atlantic Ultraviolet. Website is at http://www.ultraviolet.com/ You can get both the lamps and quartz from them but fairly costly. You can specify the length of the sleeve when you order as they can customize the size for you. I am using a 1" OD quartz sleeve with one end closed cause the lamp I am using is thin type. If your tube is of bigger diameter, you have to order a bigger sleeve. What is the dianeter of your tube? They normally call it COE (Close One End). You can check out their website and you might get a good bargain if they have offer items. You can use a plastic box provided the exposure time is short or else the UV will decay the plastic material and eventually caused it to crack.
  2. Hi Captk, Below is the picture of the UV lamp placed inside the sump. The wiring is a little messy as I am still waiting for the stainless steel plates to be fitted on the quartz sleeve and around the sump to prevent the UV rays from irridating the 2nd stage filter. The end of the sleeve is also not covered, also waiting for the parts to be machined. I am presently using a piece of plastic to cover the 2nd stage filter but plastic is not good with UV as the degrades rapidly and crack unless the plastic is made to withstand UV rays. You will note that the starter is placed inside the quartz together with the lamp to reduce the number of wires coming out from the lamp. The ballast is fitted externally as it is running fairly hot and has to be well insulated from plastic and wood (to prevent accidental fire should the ballast failed). I will take another picture once all the metal parts are in place and it should be quite neat. A piece of polished stainless steel reflector will also be installed to the sleeve to reflect the UV rays back to the bottom of the sump. The lamp is working well and water is crystal clear. I have just changed 25% water a while ago. Cheers............ UV lamp placed in the sump.
  3. DG, My lamp has 2 pin on each sides (see attached pictures). The lamp rating is 10W and I am using a 11W ballast to run it. Since it is like a normal florescent lamp, it will also need a starter. For wiring connection, it is just like any ordinary florescent lamp. Since you ontained a 25W UV bulb, you should be able to get hold of a 25W ballast. Is your lamp with 2 pins or 4 pins? If you cannot get a 25W ballast, a 30W should work with a little overdrive. This will increase the power slightly but may reduce the UV lamp life a little. There is 2 ways to mount the UV lamp. The one I am using is immersed in the sump using a quartz sleeve. You will need a quartz sleeve to prevent the lamp from touching the tank water. If you do not have a sleeve you can mount it above the water level in a sump. Using a polished reflector will maximize the irridation of the UV rays to the water passing through. I think the effectiveness is much better if the lamp is inserted to a sump than a in-line version. The contact time in a sump is much longer compared to the in-line type as the flow rate is usually failrly fast thus reducing the contact time. Most of the in-line type UV sterilizer are quite short and small volume. Let me know if you need further information. Cheers.............. UV lamp UV lamp label Cheap conventional ballast
  4. I found another tooth today!! I have all together collected 8pcs. I have 9 gf, 1 Oranda, 1 Black moor and 7 Ranchus but not sure which one is loosing teeth. I would guess the biggest one as the rest are moderate size between 4-5 inches. I will snap some pix next week of all the teeth collected. Cheers........
  5. Yea, I have read the thread on goldfish teeth and it is really funny. I am quite surprise to see such a tooth in goldfish as you cannot really see it from the outside. Most other larger fishes teeth are quite visible though. I have collected 7 pcs and I will use a trinocular to shoot a good picture of them to share. In most cases the teeth will not be visible in a tank with gravel and most likely a lot of gf keepers like me do not know gf have teeth. It is funny that I will cut most of the life food into very small pieces to prevent choking. I think I do not need to do that anymore since they have teeth that can chew!!!
  6. This is the best goldfish site so far and provides lot of excellent informaiton from members and moderators. I have no problems using this site and my PC is mostly hooked up with Kokos 10 hours daily. I have also never seen a rude or bad posting so far. Cheers.....
  7. My gf is passing white poops. Upon inspecting the white hard stuff under microscope, it looks like teeth!! I have collect 7 pcs today from the bare bottom tank of various sizes. It have a enamel coating and pointed end with a small cavity on the other end. I am quite surprise to see this but not certain it is from which gf but could be from the biggest Ranchu. Will the teeth grows back like some other animal?
  8. Cathy, So sorry to hear that you have lost so many gf Since you have high copper in your water, you may need to use RO system to filter off some of the heavy metals in the tap water. I have just found out the white poops are very likely the teeth of the gf but I am not sure whether gf have teeth!! I have 9gf in my tank with one fairly big. Under the microscope the white poops looks like a vey small teeth with a layer of enamel coating. It looks like a human teeth, miniature though with a small cavity on one side probably for the veins to grow and this part grows on the gum area. It is also flat in most cases with a fairly sharp end. From the mouth of the gf, I cannot see any teeth growing but I know most fishes have teeth but gf?? I will look up the anatomy of gf to see whether they have teeth. Cheers........
  9. Cathy, do you have the full picture of your Chilly Willy? It looks very special...I know it is gone now.
  10. Hi Cathy, how are your doing? Hope you are in great shape!! I noticed you have been extremely active at Kokos and surpassed the 1500 post mark...wow. I think my case is probably different from yours as the white poop is very tiny sizing about 2mm X 1mm diameter. My tank is bare bottom thus this white stuff should not have been consumed by the gf. It is very hard though but not sure how it gets into the gf digestion system. I am thinking like in humans, we sometimes gets stones in our bladder or kidneys but not sure gf had similar problems.. Anyhow all the gf are OK and I am just curious where in the world the white stuff comes from. You can only see this if the tank is bare bottom as the bits are very small.. Cheers...........
  11. I only feed the gf with Hikari pellets, green peas (once a week) and nothing else. All of them looks very healthy and very active. The only concern is the white stuff appears at the tank bottom and I am wondering whether the rock like poops could have comes from the accumulation of dissolved calcium in the water. I am certain that the white stuff is coming from the gf as my filter will be able to filter off any debris in the tank. Cheers.........
  12. Is it normal for gf to have rock solid white color poops? The poops looks like small pieces of corals but it is very white and very hard and heavy and it sinks. I tried smashing it and it turn into powder. Is this normal? My tank GH is about 100ppm. I am not sure the poops belongs to which gf and I could see this everyday.
  13. The following link was provided by our beloved Dataguru. You can find a lot of UV models for aquarium use. If you read all the contents in this thread, you should be able to solve the green water problem in your tank. My tank now is super clear and I have never seen water so clear in my tank before using the UV lamp. I am running the UV 3 hours daily with great results. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/NavR...m?N=2004+113778 Cheers.....
  14. I think your tank is having the green pea soup syndrom (floating algae). Mine had the same problem and using a UV sterilizer solved the problem. Do you have a unit? UV can clear up the water within a day or so. Make sure thae flow rate that goes through the UV unit is not too fast or else it won't be effective. Cheers....
  15. Thank you guys.. appreciate all your help. The tank is so clear now and the water looks "invinsible". Captk, I can give you one lamp as my gift to you but the freight might cost more than the lamp . I am serious and I still have 9 pcs in stock. It is just a UVC germicidal lamp but the quality is quite good. Cheers...........
  16. Hi Guys, excellent news!! The tank was super clear this morning. The water looks like it has just been changed. I have attached the pictures of the tank before and after the UV treatment and it was sooooooo dramatic. I must thank you all your all your kind assistance. It has been a great experience to solve the green pea soup problem. The tank clears up in just 16 hours without the use of any chemicals. I intend to continue to use the UV about 10 houra daily (attached to the timer of the aquarium lamp). Do you think this is sufficient? I also checked the water parameters with both ammonia and nitrite at zero ppm. DG, the lamp is made by the Japs and I still have 10pcs in stock. I purchased it some years ago to build UV strilizers for air purifications. I have also purchased large quantities of UV lamps from Atlantic Ultraviolet Inc. located in New York. They produced very good quality UV lamps and quartz sleeves. They are very expensive though and we used it for water strilization of RO water used in the medical industry. The most important point for a good UV strilizer is to have a quartz sleeve to house the lamp. Quartz is able to transmit UV very well hence not losing much of the irridation. If the sleeve is of poor quality glass the UV power will be lost hence affecting the effectiveness. UV is a kinda bad if you exposed it to your skin and naked eye. If you shield it properly it will be OK I have shielded the light from the other chamber of the filter or else it will kill all the good bugs but still some light will get through as the lamp is placed inside the sump. I will do some mod to improve the shielding. Here are the pictures of the tank. Before UV treatment After 16 hours UV treatment Before UV treatment - front view After 16 hours UV treatment - front view
  17. Hi Captk, thanks for the advise. I will monitor the water quality. Will update you later on the progress.
  18. Captk, The results of the new lamp is excellllllent!! I have seeing immediate improvements after running only for 6 hours. The water is clearing up and I could see the other side of the tank now. Sill a little cloudy though but most green are gone.. Yes, I am aware that the UV lamp place in the sump might kill the good bugs. I have placed 2 pcs of aluminium reflector, onr in the sump and the other outside the filter to maximize UV ray irridation in the sump. The reflectors will shield most of the UV rays from the media. Todays job is quite crude and I will make a new reflector using stainless steel next week to shield the ray from getting to the 2nd stage filter. The 1st filter media should be OK as it blocked by the 2nd stage media. I think by tomorrow the water should clear up. One question is whether the UV rays can clear up cloudy water cause by the heterotrophic bacteria? The UV rays should kill them all but can it be trapped by the filter media clearing up the water making the water sparkling again? This is the first time I am using a UV lamp and seems to be very effective. Cheers...........
  19. Captk, Thanks for the information. I also thought that 1800l/hr flow rate is just too fast for a 10W lamp used in the in-line configuration. The pump and UV is non adjustable thus not able to bring the flow rate down. I have just modified another lamp using a quartz sleeve to house a 10W T5 lamp and place it inside the sump. The water level in the sump is now adjusted to about 10" (used to be about 4" during normal use). This will maximize the water contact time with the UV lamp. This lamp is a better quality lamp made by Sankyo Denki, UVC gemicidal lamp. I think the performance is much better that the in-line type as those are using cheap China lamps. I also did partial water change justnow to reduce the amount of algae in the water. Nitrate was also building up slowly. Hope this works as it is very awful to have a green tank in the living room.
  20. I think the lamp power is 10W and it is housed in a black plastic barrel. I am not sure whether this is sufficient for a 70g tank as the flow rate through the lamp is quite high at 1800l/hr.
  21. I have installed a in-line UV sterilizer yesterday to kill the algae. How long should the UV lamp be swiched on? Should it be all day till the water clears up? The water seems to improve a little (still green and cloudy though) after running the UV lamp for 16 hours since yesterday. In normal day how long should the UV run? I am intending to build another higher power UV to be placed at the sump area.
  22. Yes, the gf can really suck out every tiny bits of the daphnia from the tank itself. This morning when I check the tank with lights on, not a single daphnia is visible. All gone... You suggested to place the daphnia in the sump. Did you mean in the pump section or the 1st stage area? The pump area is relatively small and the pump will suck all of them to the tank unless I place a very fine mesh filter to block the pump intake. I am thinking of putting them directly into the main tank earlier but I guess the gf will swallow all of them within an hour. How would you normally get Daphnia in your area? All our Daphnia are not cultured but harvested from the large septic tank (open air processing sewage plant)..yeak.. I am not very comfortable using this type of Daphnia but this is the only source. I would normally use my tank water to rinse is for a few times before placing them in the tank. So far no major problems as I feed my frys from the same source. Just one question on phosphate. Is it coming from tap water or it is a byproduct of generated from the nitrfying bacteria? I have no idea about phosphate all and how to control it. I will try getting a test kit but not sure whether I can get hold of one. Cheers......
  23. Captk, this is something very interesting. I will definately look into this method. All the time I thought the nitrate level should be maintained at lowest level possible for fish growth and health of the tank. That's where the bigger water change came in and "crash" the system. I am not sure about how phosphate comes into the picture and the main source. I heard that marine tanks are very particular about phosphates. Can you actually "dose" phosphate or it comes naturally from the system like nitrate etc. I have just added about 50ml of Daphnia to the tank and I used a medium size net to hold them (can't get a breeder net today). I have also added some to the filter and hopefully they could survive there as the flow is very high in the filter. To my surprise, all the Daphnia in the net are gone within 2 hours all eaten up by my Black Moor and Oranda. Both gf literary sucks the daphnia through the net! I have to get more tomorrow cause most of the Daphnia are eaten up. Do you have this problem when using a breeder net? The mesh of the net is quite small and yet the gf manages to suck all of them out....darn gf
  24. Captk, no problem. I have given a lot of troubles to you guys already. I will definately try the Dapnia method and this is probably a long term solution. I have already switches off the lights already most of the day except at night for about 2 hours. I will update you guys on the progress. The problem is getting exciting and hope I can cure the tank in a while. Thank you guys...appreciate it very much...
  25. Hi Betty, thanksfor the very informative links. From the readings of the articles, my tank bloomed is likely caused by a series of events and eventually causes the algea to bloom. Starting from high nitrate, big water changes and distrubing the filter might have lead to the problem. You are right that changing the media will not help as the algea is everywhere in the system. I will try the Daphnia method and I am sure it will work as I did see drastic improvement in my fry tank. The only problem is I have not seen a Daphia net and my filter system might not work. How would you propose to add Daphnia with the filtration system on or switch it off for a few day? I will have to bypass the filter system to prevent the bio bugs from dying. Can I use the fine mesh fish net to house the Daphnia temporarily?
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