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Kokos Goldfish Forum


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About dahling8

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    North of the 49th parallel
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    Vancouver, Canada
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  1. Glad you are enjoying your fronts, they are gorgeous! If I had a large enough tank for them, I would have kept a school of fronts. I enjoyed my tanganyikan cichlids when I had them, but the market here is so bad. It could be our very soft water, so SA cichlids are very popular. The people that do want them have to buy them online. It sounds like there isn't much demand for L. Tanganyikan cichlids in the UK?
  2. So hard to tell. First pics "looks" like 40ppm, 2nd 20 ppm. I'm always scratching my head at the best of times - the higher ranges are harder to interpret. I like the Salifert nitrate test kits a little better - it is easier to read different shades of pink/purple. What I do is do a 50% water change anyways - the lower ranges of the nitrate colour chart are easier to decipher. Take another reading after the water change and mentally double the readings value . What I mean is that if the nitrate reading after a 50% water change reads 20ppm, then nitrates before the water change would have been about 20ppm x 2 or about 40ppm? In my (totally unscientific) experience, the nitrate readings after a 50% water change are not as bad as I originally thought. I may be totally wrong, but the fish will always benefit from a water change. It would be interesting to know other aquarists experiences if they do this or am I totally out to lunch.
  3. Sponge filters - kinda ugly looking, but they do an amazing job. I have used ATI Hydro Sponges for years, I would lean towards the IV for a 40g tank. Another option are cubefilters - they last you forever and provides greater bio capacity. Better Box Filters, kinda of a hybrid between a sponge and the old style bottom filters. I am using 2 of these, both in a 40g tank and I really like them. Both are sold by Swiss Tropicals in North America.
  4. Most of my tanks are overfiltered, but the fish are not complaining. Nothing wrong with a sponge filter, cheap and easy to clean and run. Very easy to adjust the flow rate with air valves.
  5. Cool...just asking because my spouse just retired from Dept Fisheries & Oceans (Canada), lots of funding going towards species @ risk, Aquaculture...she says she's never seen the gov't open up their wallets as much as it has for the last several years. If you're willing to migrate to the coast...
  6. Species at risk - fish? Is your work on either side of the coast?
  7. Yikes! Stay well everybody, anytime is a tough time to be down for any length of time, but if you have to deal with winters on our side of the world makes it especially worse.
  8. Good luck with your pending baby - not sure if you'll have any more time for fish. Here's a more current video, name and part # included. I wouldn't trust it for more than 2 tanks stacked though. I used a similar setup as a rack for multiple 20 gallon tanks.
  9. IIRC, the original rack from Lowe's were replaced. I think other's may have posted YouTube vids of their search for replacements. Hopefully they'll list where they bought it and the part numbers.
  10. Hello, welcome to the forum. I love reef tanks, I maintained my friends reef tanks whenever he was on vacation. I know enough maintenance that convinced me that reef tanks were not for me. That setup sounds great, I would love a sump for my goldfish but at least I am using an overhead trickle filter that is working out really well. For your power filter - is it the regular hang on the back power filter? If it is, I would probably mount that on the main tank just because the intake tube can filter mulm/detritus from the tank bottom - I would recommend a pre-filter though, just helps prevent uneaten food rotting in your power filter. If you don't like the look of that, you could mount it in the sump. With that much capacity in your sump, I would look into bio-media that encourages denitrification. Either used in a media reactor to slow the flow down to encourage denitrification or in your main sump if you can control your flow rate. I shoot for 50gph or less. If you have a UV filter, you could use it. I don't, just a personal preference. Maybe in an outdoor pond if algae is an issue, but goldfish thrives on algae. Watch the wood pieces, if it is large enough it may drop your pH if your KH levels are low. Some of your plants may become salad items for your goldfish. Good luck in your goldfish journey.
  11. I never used fish to grow with duckweed, I use old tank water (source of minerals and nutrients) and some aquatic plant fertilizer. I feed a cupful of duckweed daily, so it's not too small if you feed duckweed pretty regularly. It's likely once your goldfish gets a taste for duckweed, none will last in your tank!
  12. Glad it started working again...nothing more frustrating than a filter, especially a canister that refuses to run. My guess is that it lost it's prime - perhaps air made it's way through the hose or canister body during the service That would explain the rattling sound until water filled up the chambers again.
  13. If your water is naturally low in KH, your pH will likely be low too. If you fishless cycled your aquarium, the whole nitrogen cycle uses up a lot of carbonates which would naturally lower your pH too. Have you done a water change after the cycle? Do you have fish in the tank? So it is important to know what your KH and pH readings are out of the tap. Your pH readings a day later after your water has had a chance to outgas would also be useful to know too. When I use baking soda, I use enough to raise my KH to about 6 dKH, pH rises instantly once the baking soda dissolves. Your dosage will vary depending on your KH level. For me it takes 2 tablespoons in about 40 gallons of water.
  14. I love the look of acrylic tanks, but there's not much love in return! I look at it funny and scratches magically appear.
  15. With my tanks with a thin layer of sand, I paint the outside bottom of the tank a flat black. When sand does get pushed aside, it still looks quite natural and without any glare too.
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