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Kokos Goldfish Forum

lizam

Regular Member
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    294
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About lizam

  • Rank
    Level 2

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    liza333@live.ca

Previous Fields

  • Gender
    Female
  • Age
    older :)
  • Location
    BC Canada
  • Referred By
    youtube-tithra
  • How many Goldfish
    a few

Recent Profile Visitors

317 profile views
  1. Hi. No I did not because I am in BC. You are lucky! Go see it if you can. I hear he is getting a new shipment in September so you may want to contact him
  2. Thanks Lisa. No it's an importer and I have not contacted them. I did not see a point. I waited a few days to observe the fish. I was hopeful that Winston would improve after some rest. I have had nothing but problems getting the two new fish. The first oranda I ordered from the other source arrived DOA, which does not happen often at all, but I was really upset by it. The seller gave me a replacement of course but ugh
  3. Witnessed some stringy poo this afternoon. I'm thinking maybe metroplex, kannaplex and epson salt? Going to do a WC. I will be away tomorrow so cannot likely do much tomorrow.
  4. Sorry I should add some white stringy poo was observed for a few days last week. I am bummed about this because I really was not expecting any issues. I was hoping to try breed him down the road and that is why I spent some extra money and bought him. He is a nice looking pearlescale. Those photos above don't do him justice. Thanks for your help.
  5. I should note that even in the picture from where I got him therr was a photo where he was swimming favouring or tilted to one side slightly. Medications on hand: General cure Furan 2 Triple Sulfa MetroPlex Kannaplex Oxytetracycline medicated flakes Focus Neoplex PraziPro Salt & Epson Salt On order Erythromycyn.
  6. Hi, Winston is new fish I received from a reputable source on July 21. He is approximately 3 1/2 - 4 inches nose to beginning of tail. He was in a 40 G breeder and then I moved him to a 10 gallon yesterday. I was hoping to quarantine him (meaning I would just have to do Prazi treatments) with another oranda that I received on July 21st from another reputable source. Unfortunately my beautiful new oranda was bullying Winston so I moved Winston to 10 gallon yesterday. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) 5 * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrate level(Tap) 5 * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.8 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API test drops * Water temperature? 73 degrees * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 10 gallons since yesterday. Was in a 40 G cycled breeder since I got him on July 21, 2016. Was gong to quarantine him in this. * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Aquaclear 30 with cycled media that I put in yesterday at start up. * How often do you change the water and how much? Since I got him I have been doing daily to every other day 80& WC * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? yesterday at start up of 10 G tank * How many fish in the tank and their size? Just him since I got him. Then I got an oranda from another reputable source on July 29th and thought I would just quarantine them together for Prazi treatment. * What kind of water additives or conditioners? prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? 2X per day. Repashy in the morning as recommended from seller. Duckweed in the evening. * Any new fish added to the tank? he's in quarantine see above. * Any medications added to the tank? yes Paraguard * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Parafguard and Metroplex (mixed in food with Seachem Focus as recommended by Seachem representative) See last bullet for explanation. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? No * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Yes since I got him on July 21st he seems to spend a lot of time nose down. When he was in the 40 breeder he would rest against the sponge filter. Then on July 27th he was up at the top of tank swimming in one spot with rapid breathing. I have seen this before over a year ago in one of my other fish. I successfully treated it with Paraguard. That is why I added the Paragaurd to Winston's tank on the 27th. From all my reading Paraguard is a pretty gentle, even prophylactic treatment. I confirmed this when I phoned Seachem. The representative confirmed that Metroplex and Paraguard can be used together as a prophylactic treatment if a fish keeper wished. Winston stopped the behaviour within 24 hours and appeared calmer but still spent most of his time against the sponge filter. I wanted to try this treatment for a couple of days at least before I panicked. However it would appear that I have to try something else...
  7. Thanks Lisa! That's awesome. I have had some luck with using New Era/Vitalis cichlid pellets and algae pellets, which are both soft pellets and don't seem to cause floaty issues. I have to be careful with NLS Thera A though but have had luck with NorthFin goldfish pellets. I was a huge Repashy fan but that is changing...I just got an order from Almost Natural Fish Food that I'm excited to try. He doesn't use any wheat products at all. I have been really trying to mix up their diet and they seem better for it.
  8. For sick fish, especially those showing unspecified symptoms or external infections, salt helps slough off the slime coat and interrupts the attachment of many kinds of external parasites, as well as keeping any wounds from becoming infected. It works very well in those capacities. Some of the breeders are observing that higher salt (.5%) is more effective now because many parasites have become resistant to salt due to people keeping low levels of it in their tanks constantly, and some of us prefer salt dips for certain symptoms because it allows other treatments to be more effective (when your ectoparasite is essentially protected from the treatment *by* the slime coat).For new fish with no symptoms, the thought behind it is to help the fish's immune system by bolstering slime coat production, as well as interfering with any conditions like ich or costia that are salt sensitive and can wipe out a tank. I find that time and heat has worked well to produce any response I may get from parasites and then only salt if needed, but the recommendation stands as a good practice for those who may be tempted to do shorter quarantines and therefore introduce an immature parasite to the tank accidentally. Prophylactic salt isn't something I've found necessary but oftentimes here on Koko's we are seeing fish from dodgy sources, with lesions, behavioral cues, or other red flags that necessitate low levels of treatment in quarantine. What an experienced fish keeper can manage in their own tanks differs from what can be managed by a new hobbyist. We want to give the fish the best chance of health and the owner the best chance of success with the least drama - and since most do not yet have the experience to evaluate a fish for more subtle signs of problems having a basic quarantine procedure that covers the most common ailments that might pop up is prudent. I don't believe most of us more seasoned aquarists follow the guidelines on here to a T, as we have adjusted them for our own husbandry practices and stock. But for a beginning primer they work well to avoid the biggest pitfalls we see in these tanks - flukes, ich, and secondary bacterial infections from poor water conditions or parasites. Does that help? Thank you very much! That helped a great deal and your explanation helped me make my decision very easily with both of my concerns. Much appreciated.
  9. Ultimately I just want to make better more informed choices when it comes to my fish. I guess the crux of my question is related to slime coat. I believe salt does kill some parasites due to not being able to tolerate the osmotic pressure the salinity in the water creates or something like that...? Parasites will irritate the fish's skin and gills so the fish attempts to shed its slime coat. So then salt (which I have read some people say acts like an irritant allows the fish to produces more slime coat) builds new slime coat to protect the fish? On humans we use saline solution to clean wounds. So there is a bacterial element to all of this too I guess. Before I subject either my two new fish or my sick fish, Elton, to .3% solution of salt, I want to better understand why I am doing it.
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