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210 Oranda

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Posts posted by 210 Oranda


  1.  

     

    If the dropsy is severe we don't want to do high salt, but with what looks like a parasitic issue the benefits of the salt and slime coat stimulation outweigh fluid retention disadvantages. Unless you have someone who is strongly pineconed instead of just a little rough?

    Thats a good question. Bronze fish has been in the main tank or no? If not, I's not use tank water in the quarantine. If both fish have been in there before it is probably fine. Otherwise I'd stick her in a bucket and mix the water there for a day if you're worried about parameter differences or the seller has advised it. A bucket for a day or two isn't a big deal but we don't want to interrupt any progress of the bronze fish if they are already weakened by adding new bacteria/pathogen profiles. Make sense?

     

    Non of them have been in the main tank.. only regular tap water

    I thought the same as you're suggesting..

    no main tank water touching the bronze fish until pinecone is completely gone

    Unless you think a "day or two in a bucket" is necessary

     

    Another question...

    Since the Antiprotozoan (gram positive) flakes aren't doing anything to the fish,

    Isn't it adequate to feed the (gram negative) flakes (Oxytetracycline and/or Kanamycin) or add powder to water..??

    (just a thought)

     

    Did you get a chance to read my PM sent on Apr23 ???... Thanks again!


  2. If the dropsy is severe we don't want to do high salt, but with what looks like a parasitic issue the benefits of the salt and slime coat stimulation outweigh fluid retention disadvantages. Unless you have someone who is strongly pineconed instead of just a little rough?

    Epsom removed and back to salt at .3%..

    ______________________________________

     

    Question about the other fish..

    Is it safe to move the tancho (prolapsed ovaduct) to the main tank  ???

    It has been in QT tank for almost a month with salt at .3% (13days) and 1 round of prazi

    Super active and piggy eater

     

    I thought of doing WC's using main tank water so it could acclimate but didn't want

    to bring bugs to the QT that could worsen the bronze (pinconed) fish

     

    Please advise


  3. I'm going to agree with myself from earlier - continue the antiprotozoan flakes. If the salt isn't up already please bump it up to .3% on the off chance there is an ectoparasite involved in the irritation. We probably don't need the nitrofuracin powder at this moment, not without more signs of external infections or compromised slime coat. No more peroxide dips either please. At this point I don't think Epsom is going to be much help unless the pineconing has worsened.

    I may combine the oxy flake with paraguard later in the treatment if the fish worsens, do you have the latter on hand?

    Yes.. paraguard on hand

     

    I'll remove Epsom and add reg salt.. but.. Question..

    Isn't regular salt bad when dealing with dropsy ?? (fluid retention)


  4. Taryl,

     

    I've received the flakes you requested, Antibiotic1 (Oxytetracycline Hydochloride)

    How do you guys want me to proceed?

     

    Fish have been on Antiprotozoan (metro) flakes + Epsom since Tuesday night

    No changes in her looks/behavior (which I hope is good)

     

     

    FYI.. I also have some Nitrofuracin green powder, just in case


  5.  

     

    Just some questions did these fish ever go into the main tank?

     

    Are these fish come from the same seller as the others that got sick?

    Nope.. they haven't been in main.. only 20 days in a separate QT by themselves

    (they do use same water pump for water changes but the pump gets submerged in vinegar for hours and dried overnight before re-using) 

     

    This ones are DO and the other ones came from CoastGem

    for what I know at that time CoastGem didn't know how to ship or QT properly

     

     

     

    Do you know what your KH and GH is hun?

     

    Once Lisa (fantail1) told me the number but cannot find the thread

    the chart that comes with the API kit doesn't tell you the PPM after 12 drops..

     

    My KH is 13 drops

    My GH is 18 drops


  6. Just some questions did these fish ever go into the main tank?

     

    Are these fish come from the same seller as the others that got sick?

    Nope.. they haven't been in main.. only 20 days in a separate QT by themselves

    (they do use same water pump for water changes but the pump gets submerged in vinegar for hours and dried overnight before re-using) 

     

    This ones are DO and the other ones came from CoastGem

    for what I know at that time CoastGem didn't know how to ship or QT properly


  7. Move the healthy one or move the sick one during feeding time so the healthy one doesn't eat those flakes. It's up to you.

    Mmmmmm :hummm

     

    Questions..

     

    Im in the middle of round 1 of praziquantel (w salt) but obviously dropsy is priority so..

     

    I assume I gotta do 100%WC to remove prazi/salt and add epsom, right ??

     

    But.. Even though the healthy fish won't be eating the metro food.. Is it ok to have it with Epsom for the next weeks ???

    ______________________________________________________________

     

    The reason I asked about the NLS metro food is because is pellet and won't make a mess as the flakes do..

    The remain flakes I have are all crumble down so it will be harder for the fish to eat them before the active ingredient dissolves into the water

    and even if I move the healthy fish to a container while feeding the sick one.. there will be tiny flakes floating around when I bring the healthy one back so.. :huh:


  8. You have them on hand so I'd recommend feeding the metro flakes along with Epsom salt in the water, 1 tsp per five gallons. Please do a two week course of the metro food and make sure the dose is adequate. In the meantime see this thread:

    http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/123981-testers-needed-new-medicated-fish-food-options/

    Order the Antibiotic II food and we will try that if the metro flake doesn't get on top of it, okay?

    Both flakes I have came from AngelsPlus.. However I have the Antibiotic I (gram-negative)

    I'll order the Antibiotic II (gram positive) right away

     

    Now.. if you recommend the NLS metro-pellet or anything else instead of the "Antiprotozoan" Metro flake I have, I can buy it tomorrow

     

    I have 2 lionheads in the QT and don't have a way to manage a 3rd tank as right now

    So.. Are we gonna be ok if we treat both fish with meds even if one "looks healthy".. ???

    (I can move the healthy one tomorrow to main if needed)


  9. Test Results for the Following:

    • * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0- 0.5
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0
    • * Nitrate level(Tank) 0
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0
    • * Nitrate level(Tap) 5
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.4
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.4
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API
      • * Water temperature? Fluctuates from 72-75
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20G QT, 20days
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? sponge / pinguin150 floss only
      • * How often do you change the water and how much? 75% Every other day (degas overnight to obtain 8.4ph)
      • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Today, Apr19 - 75%
      • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 - 4.5"
      • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? prime
      • * What do you feed your fish and how often? twice, NLS pellet, soilent green gel, bloodworms
      • * Any new fish added to the tank?
      • * Any medications added to the tank? salt (0.3%) + prazi powder
      • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. See Above
      • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? pinecone scales and excessive white fuss on wen
      • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? lethargic
      • * Meds? kanaplex, metroplex, bifuran, triplesufla, reg. salt, epsom, prazipro, aquaprazi (powder), kana flakes (food), metro flakes (food), colloidal silver 500

         


  10. Well.. once again Im experiencing dropsy..

    (So yes Taryl, Im a horrible fishkeeper, Lol..jk )

     

    I have 2 mailed lionheads that arrived in March 30, in what it seemed to be good conditions

     

    They're still in a 20G QT

     

    One is (still) in perfect conditions but the other black/bronze one started to get red pimples and excessive slime on the wen a few days after arrival so I notified the seller and he recommended a few (10 second) peroxide dips.

    First dip.. good

    Second dip.. a little more time to recoup and some sideways

    Third deep.. more time to recoup and lethargic

     

    On April 12 I noticed some prickle to the scales but didn't think any of it since I was told that ranchus sometimes experience that without being sick

     

    I sent today some pictures to the seller and he corroborates that it is an early stage of dropsy but cannot recommend anything specific since it could be caused by different internal problems.. pristine water along with antibac water treatment and/or medicated food is his suggestion

     

    Im doing the questionnaire in a few minutes..

     

    Thanks!

     

     

    Here's what I've done so far

     

    Mar 30: Arrival, covered tank

     

    Mar 30 -1: De-stress days (just WC & double prime)

     

    Apr 2: 75%WC + 76g salt (.1%)

     

    Apr 3: add 76g salt (.2%)

     

    Apr 4: 100%WC + 228g salt (.3%)

     

    Apr 6: 75%WC + 170g salt (.3%)

     

    Apr 8: 75%WC + 170g salt

     

    Apr 10: 75%WC + 170g salt + 10sec peroxide dip (8:1 ratio)

     

    Apr 12: 75%WC + 170g salt + 10sec peroxide dip

     

    Apr 14: 75%WC + 170g salt

     

    Apr 16: 10sec peroxide dip prior to WC

               100%WC + 76g salt (to reduce at .1%) + .2g prazi powder

     

    Apr 8: 75%WC + 56g salt (.1%) + .2g prazi powder

     


  11. I would like to suggest something....Since we have had many problems in this tank. I would like you to get the simple Silver and place some in the tank. Let it cycle though and kill any kind of bacteria in the filters? or tank.

    Have never use Colloidal Silver but I have 2oz of 500ppm.. & tank is a 125G..

     

    How much you want me to use ???

     

    I assume the silver stays in the tank permanently, right ?


  12. Your have the toughest time keeping stock around

    I don't know..  I have 3 GF from LFS that have been with me for over a year..

    Even with all my "mess ups" I've been able to manage and keep them happy..

    Two of them had dropsy, we overcome that and they're still w/ me

     

    Im trying to understand how did you get to the conclusion that "my water source" isn't adequate for GF.. ??

    There's several local GF stores and fish keep selling..

    I was in the impression that my KH and GH was better than average for GF keeping.. but I might be wrong

     

    Lately, I've been trying a different quarantine method given to me by one of the "seniors" here and it has been the less stressful (for me & fish) so far

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