Jump to content
Kokos Goldfish Forum

210 Oranda

Full Member
  • Content Count

    494
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 210 Oranda


  1. Also, how is their behavior today?  Eating?  :idont

    They were in a corner in top of each other (motionless) before I turned the light up..

    I gave them some bloodworms.. they ate some but when trying to get too many at once they ended up spitting everything out.. however they did it some..!!

     

    _______________________________________

     

    Secondly:

     

    "You want the salt at 0.3% and temp at 80* for two weeks.  This is the typical ich treatment.  Have you seen any ich?  I dont' see any in the pics"

    The red/black oranda had some ich last week but it went away a couple of days after starting .3% salt @ 80 degrees treatment

     

    Days 5-7 are NO prazi days in which case we need to figure out how you can do 100% WC that day to get rid of the prazi.  How much water would you be able to age at once?  You will need to do 100% WCs once a week.

    I have a sterilite tube (& a pump on the way) so I'll be able to do the 100% WC you are asking

     

    _______________________________________________

     

    Im starting NOW!!.. :flex:


  2.  

    Hello again!!..

     

    Just got home and Prazi is here.. so hopefully I get an answer from you guys before adding this stuff tomorrow morning

     

    The orandas have been in salt for the last 7 days.. So I kinda wonder if they're gonna be ok in salt for another month..??? (regardless of concentration)  It's fine.

    How about the temperature??.. They have been at 80 for the last 7 days.. Will they be ok for another month??.. When can I reduce temp? (if)  What % salt is in the tank right now?

    Also.. Im using "Mortons canning & pickling"instead of API aquarium salt.. Is 1 teaspoon gonna be equivalent to API even though Mortons is super fine ???  Very good observation!  When using Mortons, use 3/4 tsp per gallon instead of 1 tsp per gallon.

     

    ___________________________________________________________

     

     

    I need to go back and take a look at a few things before I comment on your treatment schedule . . .

     

    How about the temperature??.. They have been at 80 degrees for the last 7 days.. Will they be ok for another month??.. When can I reduce temp? (if)  What % salt is in the tank right now?.. 0.3%


  3. Hello again!!..

     

    Just got home and Prazi is here.. so hopefully I get an answer from you guys before adding this stuff tomorrow morning

     

    The orandas have been in salt for the last 7 days.. So I kinda wonder if they're gonna be ok in salt for another month..??? (regardless of concentration)

    How about the temperature??.. They have been at 80 for the last 7 days.. Will they be ok for another month??.. When can I reduce temp? (if)

    Also.. Im using "Mortons canning & pickling"instead of API aquarium salt.. Is 1 teaspoon gonna be equivalent to API even though Mortons is super fine ???

     

    ___________________________________________________________

     

    Thanks for the those answers.. Back to treatment..

     

    first..I'm gonna add 2 teaspoons of Prazi + 4ml of Prime + 1 capfull of Stability to the tank after changing 25% (5G) of temperature matched water (@80 degrees).. Obviously Im gonna add 15 teaspoons (or 5 tablespoons) of salt to the 5G prior to add to tank

     

    Second... "If" for the next 3 days my ammonia remains <1.0, I'll leave everything as is.. If it gets >1.0.. I'll do 25%WC as needed to remain under 1.0, replacing Prazi, Prime Stability & Salt proportional to the 5 gallon exchange

     

    Then days 5, 6 & 7 I'll do 25% wc "if" needed (to maintain ammonia + nitrites <1.0) with salt, Prime & Stability but NO Prazi

     

    Then day 8, I'll add 2 teaspoons of Prazi + 4ml of Prime + 1 capfull of Stability to the tank after changing 25% (5G) of temperature matched water w/ salt (@80 degrees & 5 tbs salt)

     

    Then days 9 to 14 same as 2 to 7...

     

    Day 15.. I do a 25% wc with NO salt but double dose for Prazi (which for 5G should be 1/2 tsp), capful of Stability and double dose of Prime for 20G

     

    Day 16.. same as 15

    Day 17.. same as 15

    Day 18.. same as 15

     

    Question.. Do I still have 0.1% of salt If Im doing (4) 25% WC without salt from day 15-18..  ????

     

    Day 19.. I do a 25% WC with 5 teaspoons of salt, 1/4 tbs of Prazi, capful of Stability & 4ml of Prime.. right???

    Day 20.. I do a 25% WC with 5 teaspoons of salt, 1/4 tbs of Prazi, capful of Stability & 4ml of Prime..

    Day 21.. I do a 25% WC with 5 teaspoons of salt, 1/4 tbs of Prazi, capful of Stability & 4ml of Prime..

     

     

    But it gets confusing here because you say at the end to:

    "use 0.1% salt (one teaspoon per gallon) and the recommended dose (not doubled) of prazi (on the days when you are using prazi) and just 0.1 salt on the days with no prazi"

     

    Which are the days "with no prazi"..?? Im in the understanding that Im using Prazi until the day 21, right? (or not?).. then what happen ?

    :hummm


  4. Why are you aging water when you are making 25% water changes?  Adjust your tap water to the temperature you want using the hot and cold taps, and pour a bucket of water into the tank.  When you are changing small volumes, you needn't fuss over the pH.

     

    The prazi schedule you have been given is needlessly difficult.  Let me adjust it for you.  I'm not finding fault with Mikey's advice, but he's not carrying the buckets.

     

    Day 1: Do your 25% water change and add Prazi at twice the recommended dose. Keep the salt at 0.3%. This is the beginning of Round 1.

     

    Day 2-4: . Add prazi and salt to the replacement water each time you do a 25% water change. Do as many 25% water changes as you need to keep ammonia + nitrites below 1.0 ppm. 

     

    Salt should be 1 Tablespoon per gallon.  Prazi twice the recommended dose for the bucket size, and Prime twice the recommended dose for the entire tank.

     

    Day 5-7:  Do as many 25% water changes as you need to keep ammonia + nitrites below 1.0 ppm.  Replacement  water should contain 1 Tbs per gallon of water and twice the recommended dose Prime for the full tank volume. This is the end of Round 1.

     

    Days 8-14  Round 2.  Same as Round 1.

     

    Days 15-21 Round 3.  This is a little tricky because we are lowering the concentration of salt and prazi.  

     

    FOR THE FIRST 4 WATER CHANGES, add no salt to the new water and add Prazi at the same dosage as in Rounds 1 and 2. This will get the salt concentration down to 0.1%.

     

    After that, when you change water, use 0.1% salt (one teaspoon per gallon) and the recommended dose (not doubled) of prazi (on the days when you are using prazi) and just 0.1 salt on the days with no prazi.

    So.. you're saying that I get to save my fish & keep my job !?.. thank you!!

    Actually I dont age the water (not enough time in my day, sorry)

    it comes straight from the tap & I just adjust temperature (78-80) w cold/hot taps

    ph only varies from 8.4-8.8 (b4 wc) to 8.2 after wc

    To tell you the true I can't even keep up with the double 25% wc daily.. I did it once but my work doesn't allow me to keep doing it twice.

    My ammonia has never gone above 1.0... right now is between .25 & .50.. usually before wc is between .50 & 1.0

    So if you guys think I should be fine with 25% instead of 100% daily.. im in!


  5. Some of us who have to age our water with an airstone use a small pond pump to get it from the floor and into the tank without having to do bucket after bucket.  In the future (even after your tank is cycled) you will either need to do multiple 25% water changes during the week or if you want to do one large like 80-90% this is a real back and time saver.  Goldfish are super messy and need large fresh water changes on a weekly basis.

     

    Here is the one I have but there are many out there and some are cheaper.  I use a regular cut off garden hose to go from the pump to the tank.  Make sure if you buy one you get one at least this strong so it can make it up the 4 or 5 ft to your tank.  This comes out at a nice rate but not so fast it pushes the fish all over ;)

     

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012UZYMG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    This one has held up well and I use it week after week.  I use two sterilite tubs one inside another to put my water in the night before.  They will bow a little but with two I have never in 3 years had one collapse.

    Usually over night is enough to bring up your ph.  You can check it after 6 hours, after 12 hours etc to see how long it takes it to get close to the tank ph.

    My back is worth more than 20 bucks.. Thank!!


  6. Thanks Cindi.. I just got confirmation from Fedex & the prazi should be home tomorrow..

    Just a quick comment/question.. I gave them some chopped peas this afternoon to snack on and (after a few min) they all had a huge/long off white poop hanging .. is this related to their stress/flukes etc or something else completely different that I should take care of ??

    Also.. in regards prime..

    should I add double dose to the 5G im exchanging or double dose to the 20G ??


  7.  

    Mikey.. something I for got to mentioned.. Earlier when I did a water change I noticed that non of the rocks are slimy anymore which they were before.. Is that ok ?

    where did you get them from? I don't think it's an issue. It sounds like it was biofilm on them.

     

    I got them from Home Depot.. They were super dirty with some black waxy stuff on them..

    I boiled them for 30 minutes then rinsed them with Prime water..


  8. Thanks Mikey.. I will raise the water 2 degrees right now and another 2-4 degrees in the morning (and add the 15 teaspoons of salt)

     

    Yes.. the Ph was between 8.6-8.8 before wc

     

    Im gonna order the prazi today as well.. hopefully it doesn't take forever to get here

     

    Ahh.. I forgot to mention.. I promise I had all the intentions to got to petco and get the 55G but I worked tilI 10pm yesterday..

    However, I have a 10G that I purchased for a betta (which I never got) and also a Marineland Pinguin 150.. Should I transfer any of the fish to the 10G temporary until cycled (and to help w ammonia)??.... If so, which one ??..


  9. Hello Cindi.. I just did a 25% water change..

    My Ph after WC, shows between 8.2 & 8.4 (ammonia between .25 & .50) I match temperature which right now is at 76 degrees

     

    No one has said if I should keep the salt or not so I decided not to add any to the 5G I just took out. I've also reduced the temp from 80 to 78.. & now to 76

    (If you guys think I need to get back to 80 degrees & .3% salt please let me know)

     

    I gave them some peas ealier which I soaked in garlic.. The red cap ate some but after a while of having it in the mouth he spitted out

    There's a couple of people that are telling me to use Prazi pro on Mardo but I don't know how to get a hold of a moderator to give me more instructions.. Can you tell em about the usage of this medicine on my red cap??

     

     

     

    Is this (below) a proof of a BAD fish keeper or they're just sleeping ??  :(

     

    20150125_202223_zps0xe0ufnb.jpg


  10. After morning feeding.. This is what Mardo & Buddy do.. :(

     

    Actually Buddy (red/black) swims all over when he sees me but as soon as he realize that Im not feeding he goes back to Mardo..

     

    Is this normal?? (sympathy, perhaps)

     

    Im starting to do 25% W/C morning and 25% evening.. Is the PH variation from tap (7.4) to existing water tank (8.4 - 8.8) stressing them ???

     

     

     

    ARE WE SICK ????

    20150125_104104_zps4ijvfc14.jpg


  11. Do you know anyone else with a fish tank? If you do, you could get some old filter media from them to help your cycle move a little faster. Good luck and remember it's not a fast process, but will be a rewarding process. If your kids are old enough, it can be a great thing to let them learn all of this as you go. Goldfish are great and you have some beautiful ones.

    Thanks for all the pointers.. Unfortunately I don't know anyone that has fish .. :no:


  12. Your fish are beautiful :)

    I cycled with two fish-in a 20g and I have to admit it was a pain in the butt and mine took 12 weeks for whatever reason. Most do not take that long. I have to age my water as my ph is similar to yours. That means putting it in a bin with an airstone and/or heater depending on your tank temp for 24 hours and than the ph will come up. Your natural ph is fine for goldfish. Whats more important is not having big changes like from the 8.4-8.8 in the tank and than adding 7.4 water greater than 25 -30%.

    For cycling with fish in the general rule of thumb is:

    If ammonia and nitrite are less than 1.0 together double dose prime and wait 24 hours and test again.

    If ammonia and nitrite are greater than 1.0 do a large water change, normally 50% or more (in your case you will want to age that water or some people here use baking soda to buffer it before the ph comes up on its own). Double dose prime and check again in 24 hours.

    With 3 fish in that 20g you will probably end up doing large water changes every day to every other day with the amount of ammonia they produce. Time and effort wise for you it would be good to either get that bigger tank or is it possible to return one of the fish since you just got them a few days ago. I know you may not want to do that and its only a suggestion.

    Also you mentioned adding three more fish into a 75g. That is too many and your fish will suffer. We recommend 15-20g per fish and the 75 realistically holds only around 70g, We recommend 2 fish for a 40. Think of it this way, 4 or 5 fish max. in a 75g will allow you to do large weekly water changes instead of 2x a week and will give you some breathing room. Its hard to imagine but your fish can easily grow to 8 inches a piece. The advice you are given in fish stores is really more for tropical fish than goldfish.

    A mod will answer any questions you have related to sickness.

    Good luck :)

    Thank you for all the feedback!!


  13. Can you get some closer up shots of those pimples?  When you look at them, do they just seem like white heads, or are they reddish in, or around, the white?  They do appear to be normal wen growth, but the fish refusing to eat makes me want to take a closer look.

     

    A fish-in cycle is labor intensive, but as long as you keep up with the w/c's, it can be done.  I've been there, and so have many of us on the forum.  When you start seeing the nitrites spike, you'll know that it's the beginning of the end. :)

     

    I do believe that a fluke treatment might be useful here, but I'll have to defer to someone more familiar with the available meds in the area.

    Hi..!! and thank you in advance for all your help..

     

    With the news that the calico is now eating better.. He still spend a lot of time at surface but he's doing good with the omega pellets, peas & frozen bloodworms.. the one that looks like a picky eater is the red cap.. He still spitting out the pellets & the peas but really liked the bloodworms

    I don't know if some garlic will do the trick.. Should I try it ??

     

    Also, as you can see in the pictures.. I have a layer of foam at the edge of the tank.. Is this normal or too much protein/waste ??

    What can I do to fix it?

     

    I just did another 25% WC, so 25% in the morning and 25% right now (12:00am).. My ammonia was .50 before the water change

     

    Question.. Once the cycle is done.. is the 20G gonna be able to handle the ammonia of these 3 babies (for a couple of months) or am I gonna have to keep doing daily WC ??

     

    Another question.. Should I continue with the 80 degrees & .3% salt ?

     

    Last Question (for today :) ).. Red/black (my first oranda) is used to 3 meals a day & now with the new friends he's only eating once.. I see him at bottom motionless a few times a day.. Have any idea what can that be?

     

     

    Thanks a bunch..!!

     

    Foamy

    20150124_103240_zpsmojkr8yv.jpg

     

    Thomas close up #1

    20150124_103411_zpswhop3wgq.jpg

     

    Thomas close up #2

    20150124_224323_zpshxblcad5.jpg

     

    Thomas close up #3

    20150124_224437_zpsrkhfw188.jpg

     

    Mardo close up #1

    20150124_225005_zpsss1ycjup.jpg

     

    Mardo close up #1

    20150124_224827_zpskea08aki.jpg

     

    Mardo close up #3

    20150124_224907_zpsprd9pfn5.jpg

     

    Mardo close up #4

    20150124_225000_zpso8cr1po2.jpg


  14.  

    I posted this in the "NEW members" page but I was told to look for help here..

     

    • Test Results for the Following:
      • * Ammonia Level(Tank) - between .50% & 1.0%
      • * Nitrite Level(Tank) - 0%
      • * Nitrate level(Tank) - 0%
      • * Ammonia Level(Tap) - 0%
      • * Nitrite Level(Tap) - 0%
      • * Nitrate level(Tap) - 0%
      • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: between 8.4 & 8.8 - KH: 300 - GH: between 25 & 75
      • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: 7.4
      • Other Required Info:
        • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? - API master kit (drops) & I borrowed a strip to test the KH and GH for today
        • * Water temperature? 78-80
        • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20G - 17 days since filtration media was added
        • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Marineland Pinguin 350, I don't use cartridges. I replaced w/ blue pads & Eheim Substrat Pro
        • * How often do you change the water and how much? daily, 25%
    • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? today, 25%
    • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3 Orandas, 2 inch (w/o tail)
    • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime & Stability (daily)
    • * What do you feed your fish and how often? When I had one fish, three times a day.. Now with three only once
    • * Any new fish added to the tank? yes, two orandas since last wednesday (1/21/15) at noon when water just got .3% salt
    • * Any medications added to the tank? API aquarium salt (.3%)
    • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Tue Jan 20 @ noon .1% salt - Tue Jan 20 @ midnight .1% salt - Wed Jan 21 @ noon .1% salt.. Two water changes of 25% with salt added @ .3%
    • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Red/Black oranda got white sparkles on tail & head
    • New orandas (calico & red cap) have white pimples on wen
    • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Red/black oranda stays (more often) motionless at bottom lately than before (when water had no salt & 70 degrees)
    • Two new orandas (calico & red cap) spend most of the time at surface. Calico not eating much & red cap not eating (at all) what I gave him
    • New calico swims funny, like he doesn't have enough strength to pass by the water coming from the filter.. he gets pushed away

     

     

     

    Hello everyone!..

     

    Im "the new" in the hobby making a lot of mistakes!..

    Since kid I always wanted a goldfish so now that I have kids a found that "as excuse" to get myself one..

     

    I followed the "reknown" small local petstore directions and introduced (after 2-3 days of water running alone) one red & black 2 inch oranda (Buddy).. (They said that I needed a fish to start the cycle.. Wrong!!)Actually, they are not completely wrong. You are doing what is called a fish in cycle in which yes, a fish is needed to start the cycle. However, there is the fishless cycle where you buy pure ammonia and cycle the tank yourself.

    They also said that I could Introduce another one in about 2 weeks.. wrong too!

     

    After I brought Buddy home (20G tank) I started to watch videos, read blogs and ask questions.. so I find out about the nitrogen cycle, overfeeding, water changes, tank size.. etc.

     

    Now that I knew I had a fish in an uncycle tank (w/ .25ppm - .50ppm ammonia) I wanted to do what's possible to keep him alive so I started to do 25% daily water changes (which by the way, my local store said NOT to do because I wasn't allowing the ammonia to get to it's peak)..

    I followed kokos site advise anyway & "Seachem Prime & Stabilily" directions & keep doing water changes...

     

    Buddy didn't show any "heavy" stress from the ammonia (that I can recall).. I was feeding him/her small amounts 3 times a day (Omega One sinking, Fozen bloodworms, Peas & Spinach) & he/she loved it!!..

    But I started reading somewhere that says that I was overfeeding him/her & maybe he/she was constipaded so I started to give him/her more peas.. obviously he pooped a lot (& long ones too) but nothing alarming.. Feeding 2-3 times a day if small meals is perfect :) Overfeeding is possible, but it was most likely you weren't. If you saw him pooping then he was not constipated. If he wasn't pooping, then yes, peas or red leaf lettuce and even blood worms work great as a "laxative" to clear them out.

     

    After a couple of days I noticed a couple of white sparkles on his/her tail but it didn't bother me thninking that it was some dirt from the tank.. the next day he had more sparkles (head & other side) so I decided to do some reasearch..

    Finding out that it was "ich" I decided to follow kokos site directions.. .1% salt.. 12 hours later another .1% then another .1% twelve hours later.. however, I had ammonia so I didn't (& don't) know what the effect of them combined (ammonia + salt) will be on the fish.

     

    The very same day I added the last .1% of salt (two weeks of Buddy alone by then) I decided to make things worse by adding another 2 orandas (Mardo & Thomas) as the local store guy said it will be "ok".. besides, (since) the main 20G tank had one fish being treated at .3% salt, I thought I could use my main tank as quarantine and have them all 3 being "cured" for whatever they came with from the petstore.

     

    First the new two orandas spent the entire day at the top of the tank (trying to get oxygen I think).. My ammonia leves went from .25-.5% to 1.0% but no change in my Nitrites (0%, which means my cycle isnt done, I think).. Then the two new orandas started to show white pimples in their wen (not salt looking, ich,  but more like a pimple).. & as today I don't know what it is.. The pimples you see is just wen growth and is perfectly fine :). The reason the new orandas were probably gasping was because they were put directly into .3% salt instead of gradually being introduced to it in .1% intervals. 

     

    The red cap (Mardo) is not eating, at least not when Im there..  I tried Omega pellets & he/she spits them out..I tried spinach & they don't even bother to pass by it.. I tried peas and he/she runs away when they're coming down from surface.. Im really worried about this one. To me, this sounds like irritation due to flukes. 

    The calico (Thomas) is only eating what's "only" in front of him/her..  he/she doesn't chase food at all.. also the swiming is a little strange.. it seems not to have the strength to pass by the filter current without being pushed away.. that also worries me too.. This could be due to water quality, but a mod will be able to answer this better.

     

    Buddy (1st fish) seem the same.. with the exeption that he is not as excited to see me that he/she was when alone. Buddy spends some time now at the bottom motionless which i don't know if is stress related or if it could be something else.

     

    I know having 3 goldfish in a 20G tank is not ideal.. I want to learn but every site says different things (about feeding, water changes, tank size etc).. I want to become a knowledgeable keeper & If everything goes well.. I'm planning to move them to a 60-75G tank in a few months.. I can't justify the expense just yet Today (the 24th) is actually the last day of the Petco Dollar per gallon sale. You can get a 55 gallon (perfect home for 3 goldfish) for 55 dollars! You will need to get another filter to get to the correct gallons per hour. On a 55, you will want at least 550 gph worth of flow. I would highly recommend an Aquaclear (Fluval) 70 or 110 to get you to the right amount of filtration if you were to upgrade. As of now, you are fine with 350 gallons per hour on the 20 gallon. I know a 20 gallon will use less meds/salt, but with 3 in a 20, it's going to be hard to QT them. I think even though it will cost more, it will be easier to QT in a 55.

     

    It is also stressful for me having to spend more time with the fish (or learning about them) that w/ my kids.. Im taking a lot of time away from work to come home & feed them, do water changes, clean extra poop or food and look at them for signs of sickness..

    I want them to be happy but I don't how much longer am I gonna be able to do this without actually affecting my work..

    When you upgrade the tank to the right size (a 55) water changes will be much easier on you. Once the tank is fully cycled, you will be wanting to do a minimal 50% weekly. Do you buffer your tank with baking soda for the pH or is it increasing as the water de-gases?

    So....

     

    - Should I keep doing 25% water changes daily to maintain the ammonia as lowest as possible or it needs to get to a high level in it's own to then decrease ?.. Or should I do 25% morning & 25% evening (or 50% morning)  ???? I think with the pH differences, a 25% (maybe a 30%) twice a day will be best for now unless you can age 20 gallons of water to do a 100% water change so your pH doesn't fluctuate too much.

     

    - What can I do to make the newer fish to eat??.. Or is it just part of the stressfull stage ??? It can be due to irritation like I said above. Would you be able to pick up some PraziPro, please? A mod will help you with dosing the prazi and making a schedule.

     

    - Is the white pimples something I should worry about or should I let it go in it's own ?? They are just wen growth. Nothing to be alarmed of unless there is a red patch on the wen.

     

    -Some of you say to keep the salt & 80 degrees for a while, some of you say that ammonia w/ salt will burn the gills & some of you say that if ammonia is present in the tank, the salt won't work.. PLEASE HELP

    Is it smart to keep them at 80 degrees and .3% salt or should I do water changes to get rid of the salt and still keep them at 80F.. Or just go back to normal (No salt, 70 degrees) ??? For now, I would keep the salt in the tank. If you are positive that they do not have ick, then heat is not needed that high. I would slowly lower it (2 degrees every couple hours so not to stress them) until around 70-72 degrees again. If there is ich, leave it at 80.

     

    I'm sorry for the thousand questions.. I just don't want them to die 

     

    Thanks a bunch!!!

     

     

    (Ah.. & sorry about the spelling)

     

     

    My other kids!!

    20150123_1140210_zps19n7itlq.jpg

     

    Mardo with white pimples on head

    20150123_112136_zps8k4anjqd.jpg

     

    Thomas with white pimples on head

    20150123_112713_zpscqh4d3qw.jpg

     

    Are we sick??

    20150123_112325_zpsydi3bfjj.jpg

    Your orandas are gorgeous :wub::heart I hope they feel better soon. :hug just take deep breaths. We'll help you get through the cycle and QT process :) When dosing with the prime, I would suggest double dosing it.

     

    Thanks Mikey..!!

    I don't use any buffer (or baking soda) in the water.. Today is the first time I checked the PH of the tap water so Im impressed that it has changed drastically from 7.4 to 8.8.. How can I fix that to a more comfortable PH for the orandas ???

     

    If Mardo (red cap) ends up "being irritaded due to flukes".. how do I fix that ??

     

    By "aging" the water you mean to leave it out from tap for 24hr (w thermometer in to match tank temp) then change it ??.. without Prime or Stability?

     

    Should I try to "soak in garlic" the food instead of PraziPro (which I don't even know what it is :hummm )??

     

    How long should I wait with water at 80 degrees & salt to determinate if ich is still in the tank ??

     

    Also.. lets say there's not more ich.. Should I leave the salt there ? if so, for how long ??

     

    Believe me.. I do want to upgrade but I do want a 75G (to have ranchu, a panda moor, a pom pom & my other 3) however.. I went last month to the pet store to get a betta for my kid and came back home with a bunch of stuff to set up this 20G.. My wife tripped..

    I'll prefer not to get a 55G today & buy all new filtration.. then in a couple of months buy a 75G, stand, lighting, canisters..etc.. (I cannot justify the $$ spent)

    However if you guys think the're NOT gonna make it for a couple of months an live comfortable in this 20G tank I will buy the 55G tomorrow and add the other Penguin 150 that came with the initial kit..

     

    I have other questions about quality food, keeping colors etc.. but I guess first thing first.. Let's get cycled!!

     

    By the way.. How much longer do you think it will take to finish the cycle??  (knowing my conditions)

     

     

     

    Thanks again!


  15. I posted this in the "NEW members" page but I was told to look for help here..

     

    • Test Results for the Following:
      • * Ammonia Level(Tank) - between .50% & 1.0%
      • * Nitrite Level(Tank) - 0%
      • * Nitrate level(Tank) - 0%
      • * Ammonia Level(Tap) - 0%
      • * Nitrite Level(Tap) - 0%
      • * Nitrate level(Tap) - 0%
      • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: between 8.4 & 8.8 - KH: 300 - GH: between 25 & 75
      • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: 7.4
      • Other Required Info:
        • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? - API master kit (drops) & I borrowed a strip to test the KH and GH for today
        • * Water temperature? 78-80
        • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20G - 17 days since filtration media was added
        • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Marineland Pinguin 350, I don't use cartridges. I replaced w/ blue pads & Eheim Substrat Pro
        • * How often do you change the water and how much? daily, 25%
    • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? today, 25%
    • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3 Orandas, 2 inch (w/o tail)
    • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime & Stability (daily)
    • * What do you feed your fish and how often? When I had one fish, three times a day.. Now with three only once
    • * Any new fish added to the tank? yes, two orandas since last wednesday (1/21/15) at noon when water just got .3% salt
    • * Any medications added to the tank? API aquarium salt (.3%)
    • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Tue Jan 20 @ noon .1% salt - Tue Jan 20 @ midnight .1% salt - Wed Jan 21 @ noon .1% salt.. Two water changes of 25% with salt added @ .3%
    • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Red/Black oranda got white sparkles on tail & head
    • New orandas (calico & red cap) have white pimples on wen
    • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Red/black oranda stays (more often) motionless at bottom lately than before (when water had no salt & 70 degrees)
    • Two new orandas (calico & red cap) spend most of the time at surface. Calico not eating much & red cap not eating (at all) what I gave him
    • New calico swims funny, like he doesn't have enough strength to pass by the water coming from the filter.. he gets pushed away

     

     

     

    Hello everyone!..

     

    Im "the new" in the hobby making a lot of mistakes!..

    Since kid I always wanted a goldfish so now that I have kids a found that "as excuse" to get myself one..

     

    I followed the "reknown" small local petstore directions and introduced (after 2-3 days of water running alone) one red & black 2 inch oranda (Buddy).. (They said that I needed a fish to start the cycle.. Wrong!!)

    They also said that I could Introduce another one in about 2 weeks.. wrong too!

     

    After I brought Buddy home (20G tank) I started to watch videos, read blogs and ask questions.. so I find out about the nitrogen cycle, overfeeding, water changes, tank size.. etc.

     

    Now that I knew I had a fish in an uncycle tank (w/ .25ppm - .50ppm ammonia) I wanted to do what's possible to keep him alive so I started to do 25% daily water changes (which by the way, my local store said NOT to do because I wasn't allowing the ammonia to get to it's peak)..

    I followed kokos site advise anyway & "Seachem Prime & Stabilily" directions & keep doing water changes...

     

    Buddy didn't show any "heavy" stress from the ammonia (that I can recall).. I was feeding him/her small amounts 3 times a day (Omega One sinking, Fozen bloodworms, Peas & Spinach) & he/she loved it!!..

    But I started reading somewhere that says that I was overfeeding him/her & maybe he/she was constipaded so I started to give him/her more peas.. obviously he pooped a lot (& long ones too) but nothing alarming..

     

    After a couple of days I noticed a couple of white sparkles on his/her tail but it didn't bother me thninking that it was some dirt from the tank.. the next day he had more sparkles (head & other side) so I decided to do some reasearch..

    Finding out that it was "ich" I decided to follow kokos site directions.. .1% salt.. 12 hours later another .1% then another .1% twelve hours later.. however, I had ammonia so I didn't (& don't) know what the effect of them combined (ammonia + salt) will be on the fish.

     

    The very same day I added the last .1% of salt (two weeks of Buddy alone by then) I decided to make things worse by adding another 2 orandas (Mardo & Thomas) as the local store guy said it will be "ok".. besides, (since) the main 20G tank had one fish being treated at .3% salt, I thought I could use my main tank as quarantine and have them all 3 being "cured" for whatever they came with from the petstore.

     

    First the new two orandas spent the entire day at the top of the tank (trying to get oxygen I think).. My ammonia leves went from .25-.5% to 1.0% but no change in my Nitrites (0%, which means my cycle isnt done, I think).. Then the two new orandas started to show white pimples in their wen (not salt looking, ich,  but more like a pimple).. & as today I don't know what it is..

     

    The red cap (Mardo) is not eating, at least not when Im there..  I tried Omega pellets & he/she spits them out..I tried spinach & they don't even bother to pass by it.. I tried peas and he/she runs away when they're coming down from surface.. Im really worried about this one.

    The calico (Thomas) is only eating what's "only" in front of him/her..  he/she doesn't chase food at all.. also the swiming is a little strange.. it seems not to have the strength to pass by the filter current without being pushed away.. that also worries me too..

     

    Buddy (1st fish) seem the same.. with the exeption that he is not as excited to see me that he/she was when alone. Buddy spends some time now at the bottom motionless which i don't know if is stress related or if it could be something else.

     

    I know having 3 goldfish in a 20G tank is not ideal.. I want to learn but every site says different things (about feeding, water changes, tank size etc).. I want to become a knowledgeable keeper & If everything goes well.. I'm planning to move them to a 60-75G tank in a few months.. I can't justify the expense just yet

     

    It is also stressful for me having to spend more time with the fish (or learning about them) that w/ my kids.. Im taking a lot of time away from work to come home & feed them, do water changes, clean extra poop or food and look at them for signs of sickness..

    I want them to be happy but I don't how much longer am I gonna be able to do this without actually affecting my work..

     

    So....

     

    - Should I keep doing 25% water changes daily to maintain the ammonia as lowest as possible or it needs to get to a high level in it's own to then decrease ?.. Or should I do 25% morning & 25% evening (or 50% morning)  ????

     

    - What can I do to make the newer fish to eat??.. Or is it just part of the stressfull stage ???

     

    - Is the white pimples something I should worry about or should I let it go in it's own ??

     

    -Some of you say to keep the salt & 80 degrees for a while, some of you say that ammonia w/ salt will burn the gills & some of you say that if ammonia is present in the tank, the salt won't work.. PLEASE HELP

    Is it smart to keep them at 80 degrees and .3% salt or should I do water changes to get rid of the salt and still keep them at 80F.. Or just go back to normal (No salt, 70 degrees) ???


     

    I'm sorry for the thousand questions.. I just don't want them to die 

     

    Thanks a bunch!!!

     

     

    (Ah.. & sorry about the spelling)

     

     

    My other kids!!

    20150123_1140210_zps19n7itlq.jpg

     

    Mardo with white pimples on head

    20150123_112136_zps8k4anjqd.jpg

     

    Thomas with white pimples on head

    20150123_112713_zpscqh4d3qw.jpg

     

    Are we sick??

    20150123_112325_zpsydi3bfjj.jpg


  16. Hello everyone!..

     

    Im "the new" in the hobby making a lot of mistakes!..

    Since kid I always wanted a goldfish so now that I have kids a found that "as excuse" to get myself one..

     

    I followed the "reknown" small local petstore directions and introduced (after 2-3 days of water running alone) one red & black 2 inch oranda (Buddy).. (They said that I needed a fish to start the cycle.. Wrong!!)

    They also said that I could Introduce another one in about 2 weeks.. wrong too!

     

    After I brought Buddy home (20G tank) I started to watch videos, read blogs and ask questions.. so I find out about the nitrogen cycle, overfeeding, water changes, tank size.. etc.

     

    Now that I knew I had a fish in an uncycle tank (w/ .25ppm - .50ppm ammonia) I wanted to do what's possible to keep him alive so I started to do 25% daily water changes (which by the way, my local store said NOT to do because I wasn't allowing the ammonia to get to it's peak)..

    I followed kokos site advise anyway & "Seachem Prime & Stabilily" directions & keep doing water changes...

     

    Buddy didn't show any "heavy" stress from the ammonia (that I can recall).. I was feeding him/her small amounts 3 times a day (Omega One sinking, Fozen bloodworms, Peas & Spinach) & he/she loved it!!..

    But I started reading somewhere that says that I was overfeeding him/her & maybe he/she was constipaded so I started to give him/her more peas.. obviously he pooped a lot (& long ones too) but nothing alarming..

     

    After a couple of days I noticed a couple of white sparkles on his/her tail but it didn't bother me thninking that it was some dirt from the tank.. the next day he had more sparkles (head & other side) so I decided to do some reasearch..

    Finding out that it was "ich" I decided to follow kokos site directions.. .1% salt.. 12 hours later another .1% then another .1% twelve hours later.. however, I had ammonia so I didn't (& don't) know what the effect of them combined (ammonia + salt) will be on the fish.

     

    The very same day I added the last .1% of salt (two weeks of Buddy alone by then) I decided to make things worse by adding another 2 orandas (Mardo & Thomas) as the local store guy said it will be "ok".. besides, (since) the main 20G tank had one fish being treated at .3% salt, I thought I could use my main tank as quarantine and have them all 3 being "cured" for whatever they came with from the petstore.

     

    First the new two orandas spent the entire day at the top of the tank (trying to get oxygen I think).. My ammonia leves went from .25-.5% to 1.0% but no change in my Nitrites (0%, which means my cycle isnt done, I think).. Then the two new orandas started to show white pimples in their wen (not salt looking, ich,  but more like a pimple).. & as today I don't know what it is..

     

    The red cap (Mardo) is not eating, at least not when Im there..  I tried Omega pellets & he/she spits them out..I tried spinach & they don't even bother to pass by it.. I tried peas and he/she runs away when they're coming down from surface.. Im really worried about this one.

    The calico (Thomas) is only eating what's "only" in front of him/her..  he/she doesn't chase food at all.. also the swiming is a little strange.. it seems not to have the strength to pass by the filter current without being pushed away.. that also worries me too..

     

    Buddy (1st fish) seem the same.. with the exeption that he is not as excited to see me that he/she was when alone. Buddy spends some time now at the bottom motionless which i don't know if is stress related or if it could be something else.

     

    I know having 3 goldfish in a 20G tank is not ideal.. I want to learn but every site says different things (about feeding, water changes, tank size etc).. I want to become a knowledgeable keeper & If everything goes well.. I'm planning to move them to a 60-75G tank in a few months.. I can't justify the expense just yet

     

    It is also stressful for me having to spend more time with the fish (or learning about them) that w/ my kids.. Im taking a lot of time away from work to come home & feed them, do water changes, clean extra poop or food and look at them for signs of sickness..

    I want them to be happy but I don't how much longer am I gonna be able to do this without actually affecting my work..

     

    So....

     

    - Should I keep doing 25% water changes daily to maintain the ammonia as lowest as possible or it needs to get to a high level in it's own to then decrease ?.. Or, how about allowing ammonia to incease by avoiding water changes daily but adding double dosage of Prime to neutralize its damaging effects ????

     

    - What can I do to make the newer fish to eat??.. Or is it just part of the stressfull stage ???

     

    - Is the white pimples something I should worry about or should I let it go in it's own ??

     

    - Having an uncycle tank (w/ ammonia).. Is it smart to keep them at 80 degrees and .3% salt or should I do water changes to get rid of the salt and still keep them at 80F.. Or just go back to normal (No salt, 70 degrees) ???

     

     

    I'm sorry for the thousand questions.. I just don't want them to die 

     

    Thanks a bunch!!!

     

     

    (Ah.. & sorry about the spelling)

     

     

    Hello Family!!

    20150123_1140210_zps19n7itlq.jpg

     

     

    White spots on Mardo

    20150123_112136_zps8k4anjqd.jpg

     

    White spots on Thomas

    20150123_112713_zpscqh4d3qw.jpg

     

    Buddy & Thomas

    20150123_112325_zpsydi3bfjj.jpg

     

     

     

       

×
×
  • Create New...