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*Amanda*

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About *Amanda*

  • Rank
    Level 15

Previous Fields

  • Gender
    Female
  • Age
    30
  • Location
    Watsonville, California
  • Referred By
    Google
  • How many Goldfish
    Veiltail, Butterfly & Pompom ... plus BABIES!!!

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  1. *Amanda*

    Rescue Betta

    Update - Blue is now in a 10 gallon tank with my 2 apple snails. He looks THRILLED to have so much room! And I am thrilled to see him so active ... I've never seen a betta swim around like that! :D
  2. Thanks, I can try the duckweed and see if I can set up a large container. I might have room on my patio (I live in a condo, so no room for a large pond unfortunately ... one day!). I do have a tank full of plants, but my fish don't pay any attention to them - not even to the ones they're supposed to like, such as elodea. But if I were to lay duckweed across the surface, if nothing else that would at least keep him below the water line.
  3. Thanks Jared, I can try this out. I have a spare 10 gallon I can set up for him to see if it's a water depth issue. My tank is 21" deep - I have been lowering the water level by several inches the past few months, but it hasn't led to any improvement. Good to know about the water changes; I wasn't really sure what that meant. I was worried it might be something in the replacement water, but it wasn't affecting the other fish and my test kit shows absolutely no difference between the tap and tank water - no drop in pH, etc.; our water is really hard here. It would make sense if Gordo's swim bladder is just slow to adjust.
  4. Hi all, I was hoping you could help me with an issue my Gordo has been having - details below. Thanks in advance! Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0ppm * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tank) 0ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0ppm * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tap) 0ppm * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.0 pH, 13 drops gH, 10 drops kH * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.0 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops * Water temperature? 70F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 50 gallons, 1.5 years * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? API Filstar XP-L canister * How often do you change the water and how much? ~70% every week How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Sunday, 50% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3 adult fancy goldfish, fairly large (probably around 5" body) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Only Ultimate and Praziquantel (standard maintenance dose, per label) currently. Normally also add Excel and Flourish for the plants, and koi clay, but not adding these during Prazi treatment. * What do you feed your fish and how often? Primarily Soilent Green and also NLS Thera-A, twice per day, with occasional frozen bloodworms and nori. * Any new fish added to the tank? No * Any medications added to the tank? Prazi semiannual maintenance dose. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Prazi has been in the tank for 1.5 weeks. No other medications have ever been administered to this fish or tank. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? White patch at base of dorsal fin from exposure to air caused by floating. I have been applying Vaseline to the area to prevent it from drying out too much. He also has cataracts in both eyes, but has had them since I got him when I set up the tank. * Any unusual behavior? Gordo, my butterfly telescope, has been more and more floaty lately. I am sure it is genetic since he is very deep-bodied and has had intermittent floating issues since I got him, but the episodes have become more frequent and long-lasting over the past month or two. He is a "senior" fish, probably around 6-7 years old. He has difficulty swimming down most of the time now, but every day there is a period of several hours during which he is able to swim perfectly normally. I have been unable to identify exactly what precipitates the trouble (it doesn't seem to be food, but I can't be certain), but I have noticed he becomes more floaty immediately after the Sunday water change. I have begun changing a bit less water (50-70% instead of 90%) in case this is part of the problem. Still, that doesn't explain why it happens the other six days of the week. Neither of the other fish (a pompom and a veiltail) have ever had any floatiness; only Gordo. Do you have any suggestions? If this is something that is unlikely to improve, is there anything I can do to make his life more comfortable? I was considering adding some netting (or something) a couple of inches below the water line to keep his whole body underwater, but am not sure how I would do this so that it doesn't go across the entire tank. When he gets floaty, he likes to anchor his tail between the top of the filter intake and the glass to keep himself upright ... smart fish! So, he always goes to the same corner when he's struggling. Thanks! Amanda
  5. I like both tanks - either would be great for your number of fish. I personally have a 55 just because it holds more volume, but I like the look of the 40B a lot ... plus plants look great in it. Also, a 40B actually holds something like 43 gallons.
  6. Probably people who have bought fish from them in the past. If I'm buying from a new supplier, I research them heavily, but if I bought from them in the past and was pleased with my purchase I generally don't research them again to see if anything has changed. Maybe I should, but I don't think most people do this. I wouldn't have had a clue about the current problems with GoldfishNet if I hadn't read about them here.
  7. My fish were very small for the longest time, but I was feeding a lot less - there is so much emphasis given on not OVERfeeding goldfish, and I went to the other extreme and was UNDERfeeding them! I switched from frozen Spirulina/brine shrimp cubes to a staple diet consisting of Repashy Soilent Green, NLS Thera-A, Omega One sinking pellets, Saki Hikari Fancy Goldfish and Pro Gold (which is sadly no longer made). I also feed frozen bloodworms and nori strips once a week as a treat. Of the pellet foods, I think the NLS is the best - that and the Soilent Green seem to cause the least floatiness with my fish (I have a couple who get constipated easily). I don't feed the Saki Hikari too much anymore because it has more fillers than the other pellets I feed ... surprising with how expensive it is. I tried Hikari Lionhead, but my fish got very floaty on it. Since I mixed up their diet, I've seen crazy growth, and I think they appreciate the variety! I've seen amazing tail growth in addition to body growth, which is really neat.
  8. The last time I went to my local Petsmart (a month ago) they had really scaled back their antibiotics section. However, they still carried a lot more products online. I think they are starting to follow the lead of other countries in this. (I think the reason is to prevent impulse purchases by inexperienced hobbyists of medications that may not be appropriate ... kind of a drag for those of us who know what we need and need it immediately, but better for the hobby as a whole to prevent antibiotic overuse.)
  9. Tohru, not sure where you live but if you are in the U.S., PraziPro is not sold at Petsmart or Petco. Some local fish stores do carry it, but not all. I would call and ask your local store(s) if they carry this and the metronidazole. Hopefully one has these medications, but if not you could still overnight it online. Helen, that video was very educational. Hopefully it is pinned somewhere?
  10. *Amanda*

    Rescue Betta

    I love your setup! I'll stop by Petsmart on my way home from work this week and check out that tank. It looks lovely!
  11. I just reported this; hopefully you will be hearing from one of the mods soon. Sorry he is still like this.
  12. I try to give my tank a slight seasonal variance. For me in California that means adding a heater in the summer and removing it during the winter (since the temp here is almost the same throughout the year), but if your winters are cold, I'd definitely add a heater during the winter as Chelsea suggested. As long as it's approximately "room temp" (around 60-75F), I haven't noticed any problem with my plants, and they have grown quite well. I have 2 swords, 2 Anubias, Cyperus helferi, dwarf sagittaria, crypts, red Ludwigia and lace java fern. Enjoy your plants ... having a planted tank is quite addictive! Edit: I just looked up your city to find out about the weather, and saw that you just had your coldest morning in 18 years at -0.6°C ... my goodness! Yep, I'd definitely add that heater!
  13. I'd do it while cycling. Aquatic plants take up ammonia more than nitrate, so it's a win-win for helping the plants establish themselves and grow IMO. Not all goldfish will disturb plants (mine don't), but some people do say your chances are better if the plants are there first (part of the scenery) vs. added when the fish are already in the tank (yay, food!). I have no idea if this is true or not though, because I've literally never had a fish that even pecked at my plants, whether they were added before or after!
  14. My plants usually take a couple of weeks to root themselves. It helps a lot if the substrate is deep enough so that they don't fall over. It also helps if your fish ignore your plants but if it's going to be a few weeks before you add your fish they should be OK. The plant I have that has grown the most is dwarf sagittaria ... that thing extended itself all over my tank and is still growing! I also have Anubias nana petite, Anubias barteri diamond, Cryptocoryne wendtii red, lace java fern, Cyperus helferi, red Ludwigia, melon sword and a big rose sword. I use a Marineland Double Bright LED and enriched substrate (Activ-Flora Lake Gems), and use Excel, Flourish and Flourish root tabs. Here's a pic of my plants in action. I do have some problems with hair algae on the dwarf sagittaria and Cyperus helferi, which I have to manually remove with each water change ... the stuff can be somewhat controlled with that and Excel, but never goes away 100%. It seems to like the plants with long, grass-like leaves. Today's water change day and I haven't done it yet, so the algae is pretty out of control at the moment!
  15. *Amanda*

    Rescue Betta

    I went over to my boyfriend's house last night, and a friend of his had dropped off a Betta that he wasn't taking care of. I am not sure how long his friend had had the fish, but he was in a ~1 gallon plastic cube with no heater or filter. It looked like the water had never been changed. [emoji17] I did a large water change immediately and matched the temperature ... fortunately it is summer so the temp is pretty warm anyway, plus I took him home and put him upstairs since heat rises. After the water change, "Blue" immediately perked up. Mario's friend gave him some pellet food called "BettaDelux," but it doesn't look very high quality (3 of the first 5 ingredients are fillers). I have some NLS Thera-A (small pellets) and also Soilent Green; would these foods work? I will also be upgrading the tank and adding a heater. I haven't decided yet whether I want to add a filter or just do daily water changes - I might just add an air-powered sponge filter. Is there anything else I will need for him? His pectoral fins look pretty ragged, so I'll definitely be focused on keeping the water pristine. Mario said he was in there with another fish; the way he described the fish it sounded like a female Betta - it looks like they were fighting. I just want to nurse this little guy back to health, so any tips would be much appreciated! I've never had a Betta myself before, but researched their care last year for a coworker who wanted to get one for his daughter. Here's a picture of him with the flash and without the flash - it's amazing how iridescent he is!
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