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TorontoBoy

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About TorontoBoy

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  1. It always makes me a angry when an LED fixture fails. In the race for cheapest price, quality plummets and we get crappy products from China. The technology that is LED should be good for 40,000 hours, or 18 years, but the reality of manufacturing and quality is far from this. LEDs are more complex to make, require not only a transformer but also a resistor in the circuitry. It is not rocket science but it is more complex than a CF bulb. It is hard to fix an LED fixture. The fixture for a CF bulb is dead simple and easy to repair. If your bulb burns out they are replaceable for a reasonable price. In the race for lower quality and price, I recommend a standard fixture with a flourescent bulb. Reliable, inexpensive and repairable. I won't last 18 years, but then again neither did your LEDs, which you got less than 1/18th (5.6%) the rated time.
  2. LEDs usually last approx 50,000 hrs. Your box says 40,000 hrs, which is close enough. This equates to, if lit for 6 hrs/day, to 6666.67 days or 18.25 years. If the circuit boards are dipped in epoxy the lighting should be waterproof. LEDs are also impervious to vibration, making them ideal for truck and vehicular lighting, and other hostile environments. LED quality varies greatly. Cheap LEDs burn out prematurely. If you have a couple of LEDs die, then the LEDs used were defective. If the fixture is flickering then it is the circuit board or wiring. Either way, using it for less than a year is extremely premature for failure.
  3. Mr Hyde, I currently have no goldies that float but I have seen other goldies gulp air and then float. Hypothesis: Some goldies, for whatever reason, gulp air, possibly in an attempt to eat food from the surface This becomes a habitual behaviour, no matter if fed floating or sinking food. This is the corollary to bottom dredging for food, except at the surface. Goldies constantly look for food. Most go looking at the bottom of the tank. Some goldies go to the top, and these become floaters. Use sinking food, no matter what type. Prevent goldies from being able to gulp air from the surface. They will eventually unlearn their habit of surface air gulping, thereby resolving the floaty problem. Goldies are fish that do not need to gulp air. Experiment: Feed sinking food, no matter the type. Cover the complete water surface with thin perforated plastic (1/16"), sufficiently heavy enough to prevent them from breaking the water surface and gulping air. Watch and wait over a 2 day period. If the floaty issue does not resolve then my experiment has failed. If the floaty issue gets positive results continue to keep the perforated plastic on the surface. Your goldies will need to unlearn their habit of surface air gulping. How long this will take depends on your goldies. What are their GIQ (goldie intelligence quotient)? After a sufficiently long time you can then remove the perforated plastic. Note: Adding perforated plastic to the water surface may reduce oxygenation in the water. You will need to monitor this.
  4. Mr Hyde, do your goldies gulp air when they eat? Do they eat at the surface? I am wondering if the extra air is from the surface or if it is gas from the food? Can/do goldies fart? If you have no alternative ideas I could come up with some unique ones.
  5. One is a parasite, and the other a bacterium. You will see different presentations of inflammation etc in the organs. Cyprinidae, sorry for your loss. Were both fish bought at the same time, or from the same store? I have had the same experience with goldies and tropicals. Alex: Would a treatment of salt during QT help with killing off these parasites, viruses and bacteria? I believe salt should at least kill off free floating fresh water viruses and bacteria?
  6. I am unsure if your shrimp tank will give you much of a beneficial bacteria (BB) boost, but it is better than nothing. BB will only grow to the bioload of your tank, and a 5G shrimp tank seems like a very low bioload. 3-4 goldies will create a pooping factory in a hurry, as goldies' digestive systems are relatively inefficient. Before you buy your fish consider filling up and then cycling your tank without fish, instead using ammonia as the bioload. This will take a couple of weeks but will be safer for your fish. You will need a test kit to tell you when your cycle is complete. Only then you can go buy fish. If you buy commons or comets you need not use a heater. All fancies, it seems, require the temps of tropical fish.
  7. For the most part, my Aquaclear harem (7-9, excluding spare parts) has been very well behaved. When noisy I clean them and restart. Sometimes I need to restart a couple of times before it quietens down. All but one have been bought used. In my son's bedroom his AC50 is pretty quiet if we keep the water level high. Splashing noise increases as the water level drops. I am considering doing Shahako's gravity fed pond pump for his bedroom. Her design uses a submerged water pump that slowly flows back into the tank. This outflow can be submerged and should be very quiet. Still, the AC has not been noisy enough for my son to insist on making the pump (I have all the parts). Less splashing noise means less oxygenation of the water, meaning not as good for the goldies. Really, I find an air pump or bubble wall much more noisy than an AC.
  8. As Goldilocks prefers, not too cold and not too hot, so does bacteria. I doubt you will get to the low temps we have here in Canada, where the outside temperatire is currently -13C/8.6F but it is possible. This article covers Autotrophic Nitrifying Bacteria and Temperature. This chart, from the article, summarizes the relationship. If you are already cycled, then you should be able to maintain your cycle in cold water. If you are cycling, then it will take much, much longer to complete. Bacterial growth is exponential, so getting started takes most of the time. My commons are probably in the 60F range, indoor, and their cycle is maintained. Bacteria are very hardy and relatively hard to kill.
  9. A submerged powerhead is really for better water circulation. Some powerheads allow you to add an air line to the output for extra bubbles and therefore oxygen. Cap the intake of the powerhead with a sponge to protect your fish. Consider a bubble wall stretching the length of your tank, placed at the rear and suction cupped down to the bottom, for a wall of a lot of small but constant bubbles. A bubble wall does create a lot of ambient background noise, unfortunately. You can also add a submerged powerhead with its intake in the curtain of the bubble wall, which will shoot small bubbles into the rest of your tank.
  10. There are people with lots of money that can buy anything they want. Then there are people who want to do a lot but have little/no money. I am in this last category. Rethink your equipment by trying to make it yourself. It really is not as hard as it seems. A filter, simplified, requires you to suck water into a waterproof box, pass the water through a sponge, which traps the dirty stuff, then the clean water goes back into the tank. You can buy an aquarium filter that looks pretty, but you can build one yourself that works just as well. Both do it yourself and bought filters require beneficial bacteria, which you grow at home. The only think you need to buy is a pond pump. This is a fan that pushes water from one place to another. If you can find a water fountain, like ones that people use in their front yard that flows water down a sculpture, rip it apart and use the water pump. Your family or your neighbour may have one that they are not using, or no longer works. You can take it apart, clean it and use it in your tank. Others have pointed you to do-it-yourself pumps that work very well. Shahako's pond filter is quite nice. She sometimes uses a plastic flower pot as her container and then puts a real plant on top to make it pretty, so you do not even see the filter. You might need some guidance from an adult. If Dad is unwilling to spend money then he might be willing to help or supervise you to build a pond filter. You both might learn something as well as have fun together.
  11. MTS: Multi-tank Syndrome Famous last words: "I really like those goldfish, Daddy! Can we get 10?". It was all downhill from there! When hobby becomes chore more often than not you will know to slow down.
  12. Hand catching might work well with fancy goldies, but I get the feeling that my common goldies would laugh at me if I did the same. They are lightening fast and excellent swimmers. My small neons are much the same and would be impossible to catch by hand. You could find a piece of perforated plastic the depth of your tank and force your fish to one side, reducing their maneuvering room, but ornaments and such might get in the way. I minimize the amount of handling I do with my goldies. I do not move them for water changes, for example. Only when I have to empty a tank completely, such as to move it, do I remove my fish, and I then use a net. The net is not ideal as it removes some of their slime coat, but this will grow back. I do the catch fast and have everything ready beforehand. Moves are similar to ripping off a bandage after your cut yourself and healed: quick, painful but over before you realize what has happened.
  13. I'm unsure what kind of balls you use, or where you choose put them, but a pellet bag is not where mine reside...
  14. I also feed my goldies Chinese veggies, specifically bok choi (in Cantonese) or bai cai (in Mandarin). I learned this from Tithra's video. I microwave a clean leaf with some water in a bowl for 1 minute, clip it wiht a plastic clip that has a suction cup and attach it to the tank glass. After about 1 day and a half I remove what is left, any longer and the leaf breaks apart and makes a big mess.
  15. So you're saying that your AC110 is acting like a tidal wave machine? That would be very cool! More specifically the intake "U" tube is not seating properly against the filter body, in the area just above the motor and impeller blades. If the "U" tube is a little askew you will get this filling up of the intake tube, a large cascade of water, then air gets into the intake tube (not seated tightly), the water column loses suction, causing the cascade flow to markedly reduce, the pump builds up suction and the water column, and the large cascade happens again.
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