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Pic of the week


Pic of the week poll #14

tangcoral

Swimming Fry
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Previous Fields

  • Gender
    Male
  • Age
    36
  • Location
    United States
  • Referred By
    google
  • How many Goldfish
    9
  1. tangcoral

    I am having so much trouble...

    Everyone keeps talking about avoiding sudden temperature drop during water changes but what about sudden increase in temperature? Does this have the same affect on increasing the chance of dropsy? Where I live the tap water is always hotter than my tank water, sadly unlike most of you guys I cant control the tap water temperature unless I add ice to my buckets but that's a PITA For example, the tank temp averages 80 and my tap is 83. To minimize temp swings I generally do a 70% water change in which I end up with a tank temperature of 81 79 -> 81 in a matter of 5 minutes during WC which equates to 2 degree shift in temperature... is it safe? What would be the maximum sudden temperature swing be considered safe? I'm sure there is no one specific number but what is generally tolerable.
  2. Maybe my wishful thinking but I wish the super-sized bags came in 2 or even 3 individually packaged so as to maintain the freshness and not having to open a huge bag. Maybe I should dump half the content of a new bag into another bag and vacuum seal it.
  3. Is it just me or does everyone find that they go through SG much faster than PG. Seems that I run out of SG much faster. Probably cause I dont have a weight scale and going by general estimation.
  4. I understand the bigger the bulk the cheaper it gets but just for crude estimate and I don't want it to get too mathematically complicated, 1 bag of Pro-Gold SuperSize 2lbs (32oz) = $19.99 +$9.99 shipping = $29.98 2 bags of Repashy SG 16oz Bag (2 bags = 32oz) = $26.98 +11.25 shipping =$65.21 by my calculations, is repashy a bit over 2 times the cost? I also tried another variation for ex. 2 ~ 2lbsbags PG vs 1 64ozbag of SG and the gap lessens at 27% cost difference which made realize that repashy is much cheaper going with the big 64oz (4lbs bag) I'm assuming I shouldnt be calculate adding water to the final mix of repashy towards my price per weight calculations. I always considered progold a slightly expensive premium food but that would definitely mean repashy is expensive unless I go with the biggest bag. Is there any flaw to my calculations? Am I not taking account in consideration of other factors? Let me know.
  5. tangcoral

    THAILAND

    Anyone living in thailand?
  6. Sorry the seachem text above was not visible. The ammonia is changed to a ammoniacal substance that is nontoxic to the fish but is still biologically available to the bacteria to consume. Prime (or Safe) only holds it as a ammoniacal substance for 24 hours after that it is free to turn to ammonia or ammonium. Ammonium is also non toxic to the fish. How much toxic ammonia you have depends on your pH.Most test kits for ammonia read total ammonia (NH3 and NH4). This is both the toxic ammonia and the nontoxic ammonium. They will also read the nontoxic ammoniacal substance.
  7. I have high ammonia coming from my tap, cant afford rodi system just yet. I understand using prime/safe will neutralize the ammonia by converting it into ammoniacal. Below is a statement from Seachem rep on their forum. The ammonia is changed to a ammoniacal substance that is nontoxic to the fish but is still biologically available to the bacteria to consume. Prime (or Safe) only holds it as a ammoniacal substance for 24 hours after that it is free to turn to ammonia or ammonium. Ammonium is also non toxic to the fish. How much toxic ammonia you have depends on your pH.Most test kits for ammonia read total ammonia (NH3 and NH4). This is both the toxic ammonia and the nontoxic ammonium. They will also read the nontoxic ammoniacal substance. My questions is..since the ammoniacal will be eaten up by my BB as stated above and assuming it will convert to nitrites then nitrates. That would mean using my ammonia tap water would just create more nitrates correct? So when will my battle of nitrates end, obviously not through water changes. Let me know if I am misunderstanding something. Thank you in advanced.
  8. Doh I knew that! The acclimation of .3% is not needed since is already acclimated (forgot about that one) Once again I tank you guys for the awesome response time...I am now a believer in this forum so I just might be a subscriber for the support. Also from past threads I found these post.. It's been used to transport koi for years and years, Has a calming effect on fish. Also used in QT as a antibacterial and gill wash, great use for ulcers along with salt. I have a friend who uses it for her koi and swears she'd never be without it. and It is anti bacterial, not for parasites. Good for stress as when shipping fish. Has a calming effect though they do not know why. Supposedly very good for ulcers especially in conjunction with salt.
  9. Ahh..come to think of it I see the extensive usage of this med here in Thailand pet fish market where hundreds of vendors gather for weekend sale. Normally early in the morning the fish are in plastic shipping bags are filled with yellowish water dropped off by suppliers. dnalex, I think I will go with your suggestion and skip this treatment. Question, you mentioned 100% WC for severely infected fish how about my case where it looks none to mild. Would 50% or less be okay cause when I introduce salt I staggered the dosage at .1% every 12 hours. So it would be hard to imagine how easily that can be done with a daily WC of 100%
  10. INCREDIBLE!! Wow I really appreciate the help Pearlscaleperfect Now the question is...should I be using it? Any precautions or risks?
  11. Thank you for the replies...This results are from my OT tank, let me know if you need parameters for my main tank. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank): 0 * Nitrite Level (tank) 0 * Nitrate level (Tank) trace and main tank 30ppm * Ammonia Level (RO h20): 0 * Nitrite Level (RO h20) 0 * Nitrate level (RO h20) trace * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.4 * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.4 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API test drops * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? QT no filter just air bubble for areation and Main tank K1 media filter and sponge filter * What kind of water additives or conditioners? None * Water temperature? 79 F * How often do you change the water and how much? 2 times weekly 50% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? QT 100% new and MT 50% * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? QT 18gal 1 day and MAIN 50gal 3 months * How many fish in the tank and their size? QT 1 and Main 5 * What do you feed your fish and how often? hikari lionhead and frozen blood worm and occasionally peas * Any new fish added to the tank? NO * Any medications added to the tank? QT just .3% salt and nothing in Main * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) NONE * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? NONE, just cut and missing scales due to srape with pvc filter pipe * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? NONE, injured fish acting and eating normal. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. NONE * You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video. I will try to get pictures
  12. Unfortunately my fantail had an accident with the filter pipe. He now has a 1 inch semi deep cut with scales missing right above his head. Hes doing fine but I want to take preventive measures to avoid infection and fast heal time. Being in Thailand I don't have access to much meds but at my LFS they gave me a packet of granulated powder that will make the water turn yellow. Hes currently in 20 gal QT with .3% salt water for 1 day now. The LFS said to put 1/3 of this packet in and let him stay for 3 days. How long should he be in the QT tank with salt? I would love for someone to translate what it says on the packet and the small instructions.
  13. I went with a diy drip system cause its literally like a 50% water change daily. Temperature and PH of the tap water doesnt matter since its being replenished one gal over a hours time. This of course would work for anyone with no chlorine no ammonia no nitrite and no nitrate in their municipal water system or well water. For those of you with the extra funds you can attach it directly to your RO unit.
  14. Well it was dripping high ammonia level well water over a long period of time so it gave the biofilter a real work-out so fortunately the tank didnt have as a high of a level since it was quickly being turned into nitrite. I guess Nitrite -> Nitrate takes a bit longer to process thus the high Nitrite 2.0ppm. But by next morning 0ppm but as expected the Nitrate level would jump. How are the fish acting? Are they doing anything strange such as bottom sitting or do they seem to be showing normal behaviour? Uhm..I didnt notice anything unusual. Fish here in Thailand are kept in deplorable enviroment at my LFS. Maybe they adapted to the conditions? Anyhow 2 inch ranchu, orandas, lionhead cost like $1 each here...maybe some of you guys dont know but Thailand is a major international hub for fancy and exotic goldfish, arowanas, discus and flower horns. Discus cost $3 bucks!
  15. I tested the tank water only but since I saw the high spike in Nitrite I went on to test the tap water just to find the reason. Yeah I'm kinda addicted to testing. Its done randomly and frequently. I'm in thailand so these nipple output (dont know technical name) cost me like 15 cents. They come in 2 sizes I believe 1/4 pvc pipes and 1/2 pvc pipes Dont know if they are sold in the US at homedepot, lowes, etc.. but you can try your local irrigation/garden store. If anyone want one, I can send some but postage is probably like $3 or so.
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