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Arctic Mama

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Everything posted by Arctic Mama

  1. You could certainly try posting this on your local Craigslist too, though obviously that’s much more of a grab bag. I’m sorry she wasn’t able to help but I’m glad you touched bases and tried, nonetheless!
  2. Did you message Myra like I mentioned above? She is the only one I know close to you. Otherwise if you’re willing to ship there are other members here who could help you
  3. Just feed it to them a few flakes at a time. Little tiny mouthfuls, so none gets wasted. A couples times in a row should get decent quantities in them as they learn.
  4. Just redose when you water change, you don’t need to add it more frequently than that if I recall.
  5. I’d probably run it for a week or so; make sure you vacuum well in the middle and dose again to catch any new hatchlings too, if this is indeed what you are dealing with. And like prazi, I like to give a week or two off and run one more time.
  6. What strength is your dimilin? Is it 1/4 tsp per hundred gallons? The dosage matters to the math and yours might not be the same as mine, but yes, the general idea is that you measure it into a water volume you can then use a portion of, if the amount for your whole tank is too small to get an accurate measurement. And dimilin is very forgiving too, as a med. not easy to overdose.
  7. Sounds good As long as they’re eating it should work.
  8. No, no meds will help. If it is going to grow back it is time, months and months sometimes. And if it is a defect she was born with it won’t ever get better. Really though it’s just cosmetic at this point and I wouldn’t worry about it at all
  9. https://angelsplus.com/collections/fish-flake-food/products/fish-antibiotics This is one I’ve really liked, but read the instructions carefully, medicated food isn’t fed like normal food
  10. It’s really your call. I don’t think it would hurt, but I also can’t say with confidence it would help at this point, and I don’t like using needless antibiotics since that contributes to resistant strains. However if there is one more treatment that could assist this would be it.
  11. A little visible veining is okay, but when they look bloody or bright pink that’s the worrying sign if they’re not getting better beyond this point it’s really your call. The listless side laying isn’t a good sign, so if you don’t see that go away you don’t have a lot to lose You can give it more time to observe; too. That’s always an option.
  12. Yeah those are ammonia burns and shredded/injured fins from the water quality issues. If the filter is fixed just keep an eye on the water parameters with your test kit; as long as it stays clean (no ammonia or nitrite, nitrate below 20 ppms) he should heal just fine
  13. Awe he’s so cute! I hope you find a great home for him.
  14. If I haven’t managed to explain this clearly enough in a dozen posts and our personalities aren’t meshing, it is better for everyone for me to step back. @FishyMandy, @shakaho, @Fish Of Gold, there are plenty of members who can speak to cycling, and dozens of threads on the topic. Please feel free to peruse the site and glean what you can. In the end it comes down to testing, water changes, and time.
  15. So if the dimilin is for, say, 100 gallons, I’d dilute it into a five gallon bucket and then scoop out water for 20 gallons at a time (which would be one gallon of treated water, 1/5 the whole bucket amount right?). You can dilute it into 1 cup of water the same way. 100 gallons of dimilin in concentration (with my dimilin that’s like 1/4 teaspoon), and scoop out 1/4 cup of the mixture per 25 gallons of tank water to treat. It’s super easy.
  16. The stringy poop could be stress, it’s tough to say. His tail looks okay to my eye, some residual redness but not terribly inflamed. Would you like to try metronidazole with him? Two weeks of either a medicated flake or some in the water in a hospital tank would be the next thing I’d recommend, with the caveat it’s a 50/50 toss up as to whether it would work. Metro is nice because it’s fairly broad spectrum and affects parasites too, so it gives us a good coverage of things the Maracyn might not have affected
  17. You can attach photos by clicking on the “Click to choose files” option at the bottom of the text box for these responses Consider messaging @mjfromga as I know she is down in Georgia and an excellent goldfish keeper, she would take good care of your baby. Otherwise I wish you the best!
  18. Okay, no attitude please. I’ve been traveling all week, am pregnant, have six other kids I’m managing, plus a home remodel, and my own tanks and other pets. I’m trying to explain this clearly and cannot always jump on every single aspect you don’t get. I’m one person and a volunteer, at that. I will kick it over to @koko to deal with if this get tetchy, my patience is pretty limited. Generally speaking during any cycling, I recommend complete water changes. 100% or close to it. I do not remove my fish, I take out 80% or until the fish are barely covered, then I refill it back halfway, and remove down to 80% empty again. This two step water change removes and dilutes practically the entire water column without the disruption and difficulty of catching fish. And yes, do that WHENEVER you’re showing any ammonia or nitrite. I tend to do it daily or even twice daily when I have a hospital tank or a new fish in cycle. But as long as you’re testing you can spread that out until you show any toxins on your tests, which may be a day or two if you’re lightly stocked, which I stated several posts up. You change the water weekly OR more frequently based on your tests and tank requirements, more than any scheduled thing. What I do may be overkill for your tank, as I have heavier stocking and maybe bigger goldies. But if BOTH of us change our water based on our test results and fish behavior we are in good shape. Weekly or biweekly changes down the road should also be very big, as it gives the fish fresh minerals in the water and higher redox potential, which they require for their osmotic health. Generally pristine water and frequent large changes make for very happy tank goldfish. Ponds or planted tanks can be a bit different, but that isn’t what we are dealing with here. I recommend a python or other hooked up sink water changer compared to buckets. Any tank over about 20 gallons is awful with bucket changes, and if the water changes are easier and less messy it makes it more of a pleasure to do at the proper frequency. That sort of water change system is one I don’t think any of us have ever regretted. If you are doing buckets by all means recycle the water in your garden, it’s great stuff for plants. Don’t worry about the bloom. It’s normal. All of this is NORMAL. Cycling tanks isn’t rocket surgery, though the stability added a complicated element since we don’t really have a good feel for how well it worked or what parameters it changed, but it is what it is. We have some additional links above about a fish in cycle. All our advice is based on that outline, but you can adjust as needed for your specific tank. As long as the water is clean your fish will be in good shape, and clean water varies based on the parameters and needs of each tank
  19. I don’t know how big the buckets are. If I was changing the water I’d be doing 80-100% changes to get the circulating waste back to zero. I wouldn’t touch the filter; the mulm in there is fine at these levels and helping the bacterial population to grow. The water Is cloudy because your tank isn’t cycled or fully matured, it’s called a bacterial bloom. Not a big deal, just aesthetically ugly. It will go away in time and isn’t something to worry about. As the filter ages that almost always takes care of itself.
  20. I was just giving a general explanation of why that can happen. The nitrate isn’t a big deal unless it gets too high. Weekly water changes, or every time the ammonia or nitrite shows, and testing every day or two, depending on how things look. I think you’re cool with every other day at this point since things aren’t spiking dramatically. That’s really what we are looking for, just to protect the fish. Otherwise let it do its thing.
  21. That’s not too weird, it’s mostly just your tank cycling Just keep up with your testing and water changes when why parameter gets too toxic until all you’re showing is nitrates. If ammonia is showing that is because there is waste breaking down that hasn’t been processed into nitrites or nitrates yet. Once it crosses .25 ppms ammonia it’s water change time. Whether you’re showing nitrates or not isn’t really the issue so long as you’re NOT showing ammonia or nitrite. Sometimes with frequent water changes, a heavily planted aquarium, or a new aquarium there just isn’t much being produced. That’s not really the point much one way or the other and it isn’t weird in a lightly stocked, heavily water changed tank, okay?
  22. Your water change schedule and filter maintenance is the problem for sure, and that’s what needs to be remedied. Those nitrates are dangerously high. What kind of filter do you have? Filter floss, pads, and sponges MUST have the mulm (poo and broken down food) emptied out of them monthly. Squeeze, dump, or knock the filter media in a five gallon bucket of tank water (half full, we are just trying to rinse out the excess not splash all over) or the side of your sink. ONLY EVER RINSE YOUR FILTER MEDIA WITH TANK WATER. Never tap water, the chlorine is hard on your beneficial bacteria. Once the media has all the loose waste rinsed from it, it will still look brown and dingy. That is GOOD AND NORMAL. Do not toss your media for fresh or you lose your denitrifiers and have to cycle your tank all over again. The only other step to filter maintenance is wiping down or rinsing off any poop in the corners of the plastic, if your filter has a casing, again with tank water and not tap. Then you reassemble your filter and proceed with your normal water change. This should bring your nitrates down to 5-ish ppms, which is the safe zone. They MUST stay under 20 ppm or it’s time to knock the crap from your filter again. Second point is water changes. Goldfish are not like your average small tropical fish, they’re very big and very messy. To manage this we recommend a very thin layer of substrate (large rocks or sand) or a bare bottom tank so no waste gets trapped. Then with vacuuming the bottom or siphoning out the water you want to aim for weekly large water changes. 80%-ish. I usually suck it down until there is barely enough water to cover the fish and then refill with tap water conditioner and fresh, temperature matched water. This is EVERY WEEK. In this case I want you to stop the salt and medication for a bit. JUST focus on being the perfect water keeper and letting your goldfish rest for a week or two. When you fix these issues I think you will see some of the problems your fish is experiencing clear up with the cleaner environment, and during that time I want you to go online and order powdered praziquantel from eBay, please. It is a gill fluke treatment and one we do on goldfish when they’re new to us, as babies, or once every year or two for maintenance from there on out with the red mouth and his age, this is where u would start. If that doesn’t work the other medication I would try is Kanamycin (kanaplex), which can be ordered on eBay or amazon or Chewy. In summary, the way to get nitrates lower is very regular filter maintenance in removing the broken down mulm - that stuff sitting in there turns the filter into a nitrate factory. Then weekly we need bigger water changes to give the goldfish a cleaner and more health promoting environment. That stops most illness before it starts. Finally, after all that if he is still sick we can treat. But your tank and maintenance habits are what made him ill, and that’s where the long term fix for your friend is
  23. Ten gallons is simply too small. You’d need to be changing out 80-100% of the water volume twice per week to control that with a bigger, older comet. That’s the issue, honestly. If you commit to twice weekly big water changes that should help very much, and adding in bigger filtration to holder a larger colony of beneficial bacteria might also help, like a sponge on the intake of your filter.
  24. Welcome to Kokos! So to be clear, how long have you owned this fish? Has he ever been treated for gill flukes? Is that nitrate test amount a type? 20 ppms is getting a little high, but 200 would be very toxic to the fish
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