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Arctic Mama

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About Arctic Mama

  • Rank
    Level 70

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  • Gender
  • Age
    Old enough to know better!
  • Location
    Land of the Buckeyes
  • Referred By
    Madame Google, many moons ago...
  • How many Goldfish
    More than I planned thanks to Cincy Ranchu!


  • Location
    Milky Way galaxy

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  1. I don’t think I realized they breed that prolifically! I’ve been thinking when my goldfish finally pass on I may do a tank with South American cichlids and some tetra and catfish species, but I don’t want things getting out of control frisky in there 😁
  2. Awe they’re so cuuuute!
  3. Yup. I actually tend to do twice daily if they’re adult sized fish, because my ammonia creeps up .25 ppms in about ten to twelve hours if I’m feeding normally.
  4. Okay Enrofloxacin is baytril, which is also fairly broad spectrum. Give it a shot. Hold off on the antiseptic for now, just use the baytril and salt.
  5. Salt. Begin salt right now, it prevents the bacteria from spreading further. .3% No cupramine with goldfish ever, they are extremity copper sensitive. I’ll have to look up the efficacy of the other ingredients at another time, off the top of my head I’m not sure they’d work. This is a gram negative bacteria and needs those treatments. Oxytetracycline would also work. Possibly even triple sulfa, which is rather broad spectrum.
  6. I bought enough Kanaplex and Furan-2 to change the water daily and redosed the meds full strength each day. Remember to keep the water warmer 76-80 degrees F is not bad.
  7. Yeah, I’ve had that happen. Otto list his entire upper lip but lived two and a half more years until I had a poisoning accident in the tank. Columnaris benefits from a treatment of Furan 2 and Kanamycin. 2-3 weeks, or until five days after you see the last symptom. Kana maxes out after two weeks and you really needs a break, but the furan should continue and salt can he added at .3 percent concentration with that remaining furan until the symptoms are gone. Warm, clean, well circulating water. And nuke all your tank equipment that could have any contact with this - boiling, baking, or throwing away. Here is a video of the treatment I did.
  8. The poo breaks down into that pulpy mulm, it can be uneaten food too but is very likely not. It’s no big deal, just keep knocking it out. And don’t worry too much about the flow rate. As long as it is moving, even a trickle, you’re good to go. If you need additional gas exchange then I recommend a good air stone, it helps a ton
  9. I’m not familiar with them either, sorry! We did a DIY stand
  10. So the surface area of the green frame is way less than the white floss. That has much larger biomass. All you have to do is squeeze and knock that white floss against the water change bucket - or rinse in tank water, but never tap water - to remove the solids. It discoloring is normal and harms nothing as long as the actual physical waste goes down the drain every month. Consider it a poop *catcher* - there to hold the detritus until you can knock out clean. Then it goes back in the catch more poo. But every single fiber of that filter floss is a surface with much more area for colonization it bacteria than the green clip frame. Every time you toss the white media you’re tossing poo and ALSO your beneficial bacteria in the biofilm on the fibers. That is what we want to keep, until the little bits fall apart in a few years. And heck, even then we want to put the new filter fabric in with it for a few months so it can grow its own colony of bacteria before we toss out the existing one on the old filter fabric Here is an example in one it my tanks, I use sponges instead of white filter fabric in this one, and every water change I squeeze out the poo and put it back. Even when I’m starting a brand new sponge I’m definitely not tossing the old one, though. As long as its not completely destroyed it is doing its job as a substrate for beneficial denitrifying bacteria and poop catching! You don’t need any carbon because you’re not trying to absorb a medication or toxin from the tank. Chemical filter media like charcoal or purigen absolutely has uses, but they are specific and only certain circumstances, not in a healthy normal tank. The happy news here is that you only have to buy a new filter for that sucker every once in a blue moon. I had a similar one many years ago and replaced the white fabric once in five years. But because that was in the tank when you medicated now we need to rebuild the bacteria that died in the treatments (metro doesn’t usually do it, but API fungus cure and malachite green both harm denitrifying bacteria). That’s why I want you to test for ammonia and just manage the water quality for now. Because I think you have a fish who isn’t happy with the cycle bounce of treatment more than anything suggesting a separate illness.
  11. Can you take a picture so I can see what you’re talking about? Let’s make sure we are not talking past one another. Generally no, you don’t need charcoal in any filter except for specific reasons. And generally if you’re doing ANY medication you want to have the fish in a separate tank with just an air stone, because the medications affect the beneficial denitrifying bacteria that keep your tank cycled and can decrease or even kill them, as well as the poo and other detritus in the filter making the medication less effective overall. That is why I believe you are seeing ammonia and why your fish is acting off, there was a die-off of some (but not all, as you’re still showing nitrate) of your bacterial colony when you treated for the cloudy eye, and now the spikes in ammonia as waste products are breaking down and you don’t have enough bacteria to detoxify the waste products are irritating and making your fish sick on their own, now. We call this a mini-cycle, and it takes a good 6-8 weeks generally to clear it as your filter matures again and the bacterial colonies rebuild. During that time is when you want to be testing your water every day or two to make sure the ammonia and then nitrite are staying within acceptable levels.
  12. If you can not replace your filter I recommend it. Every time you let your filter dry out or replace the media you lose your bacterial colony responsible for keeping the tank cycled, and treating with something like Malachite Green in your main tank will actually affect the denitrifiers in your gravel and on your ornaments too. That biofilm is important. It looks like your tank is going through a little mini cycle now from the treatments, so your goal from here is to just make sure you’re doing a water change every time you get ammonia reaching .25 ppms. That, plus the additional buffering, should help him be his happiest self. I’d like to give that a week or two before we assess if any more treatments are needed, as I’m thinking you’re looking at cataracts and water quality pouting in behavior more than an infection. Sound good? If you need to replace your filter, can you instead just smack it against the side of the tank or a bucket or tank water to knock out the poo and replace it? I have media in my filters that is going on two years old, it only gets removed entirely when it disintegrates It would be even older but I had a virus I had to nuke that necessitated a whole tank breakdown and sterilizing. Cartridge filters are tricky but not impossible to reuse. We can give you tips if you need help with that. With my old terms filter I used to just rubber band filter floss into the original frame that I could remove, squeeze out well into conditioned water, and then attach back to the cartridge frame again. No charcoal is needed so I tossed that part and didn’t miss it!
  13. Hmmm, why are you getting ammonia? Did you replace the filter media recently? That’s unusual and that amount would explain the red fins and lethargy. Did you treat his illness in your main tank with your filter in, perhaps?
  14. Okay, I’ll wait for the form. I’ll need time details on the malachite green, fungus cure, etc as well. Some of these we don’t want to use again or in conjunction with other treatments if the course has already been long, it can harm their organs and cause more harm than good What a bummer about the tap water change, we had similar issues when I moved across the country and I lost an ancistrus due to it. Yes, the baking soda would be in conjunction with the replenish, to buffer it a bit more. You can add more replenish, too, but that’s expensive. Using it for trace minerals and baking soda to go the rest of the way is a cheaper method and doesn’t hurt to try.
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