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fireevt

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Everything posted by fireevt

  1. The Black Moor is about 10 to 11 inches and the Blue Oranda is about 6ish. Its hard to get a good reading. The redish orange ones are a red tuxedo variant and the I can't remember the others. Thanks for the great comments everyone.
  2. I cleaned the tank today a took a bunch of picture. 99% didn't turn out since I no longer have a nice camera. Here is a couple I liked. Top view of Ranchu Top view of Big Bob (Blue Oranda) Top view of three of the fish. The giant one is Leviathan the Black Moor. Side view of Leviathan. Side view of Big Bob. Leviathan's new love. The hand made fishy plate. Gift my wife bought me. In my display case or fish tank as others may call it. Couple guppies Rubber Lip moved to the Guppy tank for clean up. Found the yummy green algae really fast.
  3. I believe you are over dosing your tank. I would start by cutting the amount by 25% and see how the plants are doing. If they are still doing well you could drop it down again. The instructions are more of a starting point than a rule. It is a lot harder to dose a 5 gallon tank than say a 50 gallon tank. Drops in a small tank make a huge difference, were in a larger tank they make almost none. I would leave your light duration the same.
  4. I picked them up from a Independent LFS. Other than the fact that they carry dogs and cat they are a pretty nice store. Thanks everyone for your wonderful comments.
  5. I have been on the look out for another nice blue Orandas for a long time. Most of them have a lot of bronze colored markings on them. I don't mind one marking as I'm not super picky. I visit a my local 8 stores every week and a couple others when I can. Finally this last Saturday I found 3. I purchase 2 of them. They were listed as large for $11.99 each. They are about 3" to 4". One is dark and was listed as a black and is a dark grayish blue. The other was listed as a panda and is light grayish lavender color with a white belly, with one bronze spot. They are in QT (low light) and seem kind of shy for now, making it hard to get a picture. Here a the current pictures. I will post again in a month or so with better pictures. Lighter one with spot. Darker one (washed out by flash showing no spots) Color of darker one Lighter one (washed out on the other side - no spots)
  6. Dry foods should be kept in the dark. If you place them in a new bag that is clear you should put it in a paper bag or other non-transparent container.
  7. Breeding animals to early causes a couple problems. Breeding fish to early or excessively causes stress and generally shortens their life span. It can cause long term reproductive problems. They generally release their eggs early or produce smaller than normal eggs. If the eggs are fertile then the fish could be stunted or have a higher defect rate. Fish will breed on their own but I wouldn't encourage early breeding.
  8. There are more factors than wattage. Like color spectrum and light intensity. I didn't have any testable ammonia when I had green water. I had two 18 watt compact florescent lights over a 12 gallon tank. Both were 6700K/10000K combo lights. I had good luck with UVA reptile bulbs. Compacts are brighter per watt than T8 or T12 bulbs. Is this going to be a fish tank? You can also by green water starter online.
  9. It could be from air, over heating or air causing overheating. Ways air could get into the impeller. Leaking motor o-ring. Just because air gets in doesn't mean it will leak. Crack or pin hole in the uplift tub. It maybe very hard to see. The water level should be at the lip of the filter. If it is lower, air could be drawn in through the fitting on the U-tube It could be from heating. Water must flow to keep the unit cool. Running the filter without water or running the unit while not lowing water could cause damage. A prefilter could slow flow. Have you tried removing the media and run the filter? Also make sure the U tube snaps into place.
  10. IF you have the gray cartridges you can jump start the filter by putting other cycled media in it like tubes or gravel. This is how I did mine.
  11. No, not all plecos species are herbivores.
  12. Do you have the extra gray cartridge? If so what's in it?
  13. I have and experiment. The bio wheel is a single sheet of fabric that is pleated. It just comes out. If you remove it you could try to place it over the new one for a couple months. So there is two fabrics in the same wheel. If it will not spin you could just place the old fabric without the wheel in the filter for a couple months. It seems to me that it takes a couple months to get a healthy layer of BBs on the bio wheel.
  14. Place your media in the tank. If you have a battery powered pump place the air stone my the media for circulation. If not you can scoop water out of the tank and pour it back in. Do this as often as you can. This will add surface movement and keep the tank from getting stagnant. You can also aerate the water with a spoon or beater before dumping it back in.
  15. I don't recommend sealing over old silicone. Your new silicone will only be as good as the leaking old silicone under it. I recommend removing the old silicone and cleaning the tank will denatured alcohol. The denatured alcohol will evaporate 100% and leave a clean surface. Use a lint free cloth. I do agree with the 72 hours or longer. I am a silicone expert. I have installed tile and siliconed for a long time. I used to work for a hardware store and was trained by GE in using there product. I also did home improvement classes. I have resiliconed a few aquariums including my current tank on Koko's. http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/93293-my-new-tank-setup/page__fromsearch__1
  16. Do you have a picture of this? I have never seen this. I have AquaClears forever and I go to the pet store a couple times a week. Its different than this. http://www.hagen.com/pdf/aquatic/Aquaclear_English.pdf
  17. Fish will even sleep in the daytime if left alone. My Black Moor seems to stay up late and rests during the day. No matter what time i peek into the tank at night he is always swimming. I have a theory about this. When I got him he was with a Raphael cat. They are nocturnal. Every night when the cat woke up they would both swim around. During the day they would both rest (sleep) a lot. The cat is gone but the Moor still swims at night.
  18. Moon light enters the water at night in nature. Complete darkness is not normal for fish. There are exceptions like really deep water. If it is a little light like a reading light I wouldn't worry about it. If your room is lit up then I would cover most of the tank. I used LED night lights for a couple years on my reef tank. Your tank light will determine the light cycle.
  19. That is just a base for scientific study. Example a 12" Marine Frog fish and only eats once a week and rarely moves will not need the same size tank as a 12" angel fish. There are individual guidelines for almost every kind of fish these days.
  20. The plastic covers the tank and the light sits on the plastic. I do have some open top tanks with the light above them. Some of the lights are waterproof so its ok if they get a little wet. Other tanks the light just sits above the water and I make sure there is no bubbles or splashing to get them wet (I don't recommend this method).
  21. Its always best to age your water for 24 hours. Then you can pretreat it. I used to do this every time. I used to use a Rubbermaid trash can and a large aerated powerhead. I could use peat for Discus and crushed coral for Africans. Then you just use the powerhead with a hose to fill the tank. I thing i will set this up again soon.
  22. They're really easy to setup. There is a giant bio wheel the sits in a V in the base and the rest is like the picture. Prefilter pad does in the top tray and the other are for anything else. You will need a skimmer box and a pump rated for up to 700 gallons per hour if it is the Tidepool 2. Here is a link for the new model. I believe the trays are the same. http://www.marineland.com/uploadedFiles/Marineland/Products/SumpModel%201%202%20QSUG.pdf
  23. I have used Nitrate bead resins in over crowded tanks and they help. They are generally rechargeable with aquarium salt. This means you can't have salt in your tank or it will release the Nitrate back into the water.
  24. I'm sure everyone knows how to test Nitrate with an API test kit. but it is good to go over them just in case. The test procedure must be followed exactly to get an accurate test. Water must equal 5ml. The 10 drops of solution #1. Give it a good shake. The shake #2 for at least 30 seconds. Longer if it has sat for a while. Then immediately put 10 drops of #2 into the test tube and shake for 1 minute. Then wait five minutes. Most errors occur with #2. There are suspended particles in solution #2. They must be evenly suspended to work correctly. If you have not shaken solution #2 and used it, the tests will never be as accurate again. The more times you have done it the worse it gets. If you do not use #2 right after shaking it the particles will settle and you would get an accurate test. This is chemistry. Using your finger to cap the tube can also give a bad test. Make sure you squeeze the bottle lightly and evenly so the drops are the same size. We are testing ppm or part per million and every little error can make a big difference. API test kits are really a lab grade product but they will get you close. In order to clean a test tube you must have a cleaning brush. Rinsing it with water or a cleaning solution will not do it. If you really want to do a good job distilled water should be used to rinse the tube. My tap water tested 0 Nitrates. Please correct me if I missed something.
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