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Kokos Goldfish Forum


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Everything posted by fishy

  1. That's what I was kind of thinking. I had my concerns about quality but I'll tell you though, she was as happy as could be this morning. I'm happy I appreciate all of the advice & suggestions!
  2. Hi, sorry for the late reply. I apologize, I probably explained myself incorrectly in the original post (floating upside down x 6 months). The actual upside down consistently was a week, give or take a couple days. She's been a little off x 6 months ago so took her out of the 75g into a 20 long with a not full water level at that time. I did the storage container, duckweed and she seems to be her happy swimming self again
  3. Good idea, I forgot about the under bed storage box. She's not been upside down x 6 months, just the past 2 weeks. She had more like floating to the top issues that would get better with lower water levels but that's not working so much now. I'll get her a box tonight, thanks
  4. So I made a mesh net out of the filter media bags (the soft white ones from PM I typically use for aquarium salt) & laced them together with the drawstring. It is submerged with heater suction cups and covers the tank length & width. I will fast the fish, do the duckweed and take it from there. If I need a follow up post I will copy & paste and a video
  5. Thanks for the copy & paste instructions I will try it. Also, thanks for the well wishes!
  6. I'll post a picture or video tonight when I get home. I have duckweed on order
  7. My little oranda has been having issues with floating upside down for about 6 months. At that time I moved him/her from the 75 gallon tank to a 20 gallon long filled about 3/4. On occasion I put him/her under a sterlite container with holes in there. I did that when the upside down was bad. It seemed to help after a couple days. It's not helping much now, the belly is red, I think from it being in contact with the container. When I don't use the container, the belly is air exposed. I still don't know how to copy & paste/post so here are the parameters: Ammonia 0, nitrate 10-20, nitrite 0. Water change 5 gallons every 5 days. Food is elive spinach flakes soaked in seachem nourish (worse floaty on nls algaemax and goldfish formula). No heater, temp is 70°. Will not eat veggies. No meds in past 6 months except for .1% aquarium salt as needed. I was thinking of putting floating plants in the tank with mesh netting over the plants but all under the water level so he/she isn't exposed to air and it's softer than the container. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  8. Actually, in thinking about it, I don't think that it is a good idea. I think it will bow in the middle as there is not an even weight distribution.
  9. Neat, thanks. I'll do it after work this evening
  10. Hi, I have a floaty oranda so I moved NipChee from a 75 gallon into a 20 gallon long tank last night with 5 gallons of water. He/she seems to have a bit easier time with the swimming but will still be on the side or back more often than not. I've done alot of reading on koko's so I will start duckweed and homemade gel food for floaters. I guess I'm asking if anyone has any experience with the 2 diet changes, any thoughts if NipChee will be able to go back to the 75 gallon or will it be better to keep in a shallower water level permanently? I apologize but I can't copy and paste, the nitrate is 20, ammonia & nitrite 0, ph 7.5, weekly changes apx 30%. NLS algae max soaked in seachem nourish. Thank you for any input
  11. I have a double metal stand used for my 40g breeder tanks, it's sitting in my garage because I switched to a 75 gallon set up. I would like to use that stand for 2 20 gallon long tanks, can I put a piece of wood to make a solid surface for the 40 breeder size and put a 20 long on it? One 20 gallon tank has 10-15 lbs of sand, 6 gallons of water, and a fiddler crab. The other 20 gallon tank is for my floaty oranda, it has 5 gallons of water, bare bottom. As always, safety first so if it's questionable in any way I won't do it but if it's perfectly fine I'll go with that. Thanks!
  12. Yes it is! I am pretty sure that I now officially have more food for the pets than I do for myself
  13. Thank you! I definitely wanted to double check
  14. I normally feed NLS goldfish formula pellets & NLS algae max pellets and am planning on trying out some fresh organic foods (zucchini, cucumber, etc). I came across the Northfin GF formula pellets and Southern Delights GF pellets, they seem like good foods. My question is: can I alternate feedings of NLS, Northfin, and Southern Delights so the fish have a daily variety or should I stick with one brand? Luckily, the fish are well-no floaters or sinkers. Thanks!
  15. Will do I tested the water this morning and ammonia is at 0, yeah!
  16. Thank you Jared, I appreciate the advice. I will do the baytril injections. I had used the baytril apx 3 1/2 years ago on my 1st oranda. He wasn't pineconed but I think just very lethargic, bottom sitting. Water parameters were good. Honestly, I took him to an animal hospital that handles fish, birds, exotics, rabbits etc and I am pretty sure the dvm was looking info up as she went. I was there for 3 1/2 hours & they couldn't find an exact answer from diagnostic testing so baytril was recommended x 10 days. A bit surprisingly, the fish was completely normal by the end of baytril. I found koko's around the same time and I know my fish have fared much better because of the forum. Thanks again
  17. The buffer is gold buffer, I my mistake, it's not gold salt, it's gold trace (trace elements). Big difference between the two I'm sure.
  18. I believe I can, I've done it before but that was about 3 years ago. It just goes under a scale, correct? If that would be the best option, I will make sure I do it and do it correctly.
  19. I work at a veterinary clinic so I can get all the baytril I want, lol.
  20. Thanks for the replies, I do have a 10 gallon qt tank. I do not have a clue on how to get a picture into this thread, I'm really bad at that kind of stuff - I can't even copy & paste. The additives (buffer, gold salt, replenish, prime) were all recommended by seachem based on using ro water. I do have epsom salt, no other AB but the kanaplex & metronidazole. I have a good LFS that carries alot of things, they may be an option for additional meds. I also have baytril injectable. Thank you
  21. I upgraded my 4 goldies (1 small, 2 med, 1 large) to a 75 gallon 2 weeks ago. Parameters matched old & new tank. Api test (drops) on 5/29 (set up) : ammonia 0, nitrate 10, nitrite 0, ph 8.2. I moved the established filters & media to the 75g, filtration is 800 gph. water test on 5/30 was nitrate 20, ph 8.2, ammonia & nitrite 0. Water test 6/1 results: same. Water test 6/5: same. Water change 6/8 of apx 12 gallons. I tested the water today & all same except ammonia at 1.0, my large oranda has lifted scales/pinecone. I check the fish daily and he/she wasn't like this. Water is r.o. with seachem gold trace, buffer, prime, salt. All fish are eating, I am unsure of the age. I did a 20 gallon water change 2 hours ago & double dose prime. the ro ph is 6.0 so I need to do small frequent water changes bc of the ph difference, I do have a better idea of how to do larger water changes that are safe for the fish, I didn't get it done since 6/8 because of long work schedule and my geriatric dog was having some health issues (he's ok now). Anyway, I have kanaplex and metronidazole (seachem), what should I do to help the fish: qt, meds, both, anything else? Thank you for any suggestions
  22. Thanks everyone! I'm still checking into the canisters, each time I think I've made a decision some other concern comes up (too much flow, too little flow, handles for transport, UV or not, etc). I'm sure it'll get figured out
  23. I'll definitely look into the canister filter. Luckily it's not something I need to do right away which gives me time to check it all out. Thanks for the info
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