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shakaho

Disease Assistant
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shakaho last won the day on March 27

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About shakaho

  • Rank
    Sharon

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Age
    75
  • Location
    Orlando FL
  • Referred By
    google
  • How many Goldfish
    Too many! About 50.

Moblie

  • Location
    Orlando FL

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  1. Absolutely not! Prime converts ammonia to ammonium, and nitrifiers prefer ammonium to ammonia. Most of the "bacteria in a bottle" do little to cycle the tank. From what I read in the link, the tetra product is one of them. There's a saying among pond keepers, "Cycling is a four week process that, if you add "cycling products," can be completed in a month." You might move some of the cycled medium from Sebastian's filter to Leo's. He won't need very much.
  2. 2018 Pond/Aquaponics Setup

    Look at the basic upflow biofilter here. I used a 5 gallon bucket for a 50 gallon fish tank, following the rule of thumb that the biofilter should have 1/10 the volume of the pond. For your big pond you should get a 30 gallon or (better) a 55 gallon plastic drum for the container. You can find these on Craigslist. You just have to scale everything up for the larger container. You should consider using a bell siphon to fill and drain your grow beds and keep your pump going all the time. You can find dozens of detailed instructions on how to make these on You Tube.
  3. 2018 Pond/Aquaponics Setup

    Your system will work much better for both fish and plants if your water flows from the pond to (at minimum) a 40 gallon biofilter and then to the grow bed. Most people have a settling tank or radial flow filter between the pond and the biofilter. Your plants want nitrate as their nitrogen source, not the ammonia from the pond. It is possible to filter with just grow beds, but you would need to fill all of those benches with beds. You might like to look at this system. The thread needs updating, but the rather primitive system grew lots of plants and very healthy fish.
  4. I pay no attention to temperature whatsoever with my fish. If I move a fish to a pond/tank of a different temperature it might pout a bit, but rapidly readjusts. Water changes cause no problems because I do 10% a day, which doesn't change the temperature enough for the fish to notice. I do think it a good idea to gradually change the temperature of the water for a new fish that has already suffered a lot of stress and doesn't need to add temperature stress to the list.
  5. She’s just so darn CUTE.

    That plant gives her good camouflage.
  6. Should I crossbreed?

    You can crossbreed, but don't expect to get the traits of both parents in the first generation. Most, if not all, of the offspring will have single tails. If you select the best of the female offspring and mate them with their father, you may get some you really like. Also realize that the calico-calico mating will result in 1/4 mattes 1/2 calicos and 1/4 wild color. What color is the other watonai?
  7. Pothos question.

    The oxalic acid in the leaves is one of the most widespread plant toxins. It works very well because it irritates the mouth, causing the eater to spit it out and avoid that plant in the future. Most people know that rhubarb leaves can make you sick, while the stems will not. Oxalic acid concentrates in the leaves. Chew a piece of a leaf and you can see why these leaves rarely get eaten, even by bugs. Toxic means that it causes a negative effect when eaten. In the case of philadendrons like pothos, the negative effect is mouth irritation, drooling and spitting it out. Here's a veterinarian's response: https://www.justanswer.com/veterinary/4yd9m-dog-eaten-devils-ivy-scindapsus-aureus.html
  8. Pothos question.

    No. Completely false.
  9. Prazipro and temperature??

    Usually, you treat, and change the water and do a second treatment a week later. Apparently the prazi loses effectiveness in about 4 days so you have a few days rest from the prazi built into this schedule.
  10. Hello

    Welcome to Kokos!
  11. In the typical aquarium, you can control the build up of nitrate by changing 50% of the water weekly, assuming you provide at least 20 gallons per fish. By changing this water, you also control the build up of: various minerals, some of which may be high in your tap water, organic compounds, which can be harmful to the fish, but which feed bacteria using up a lot of oxygen. Some of these bacteria can begin to feed on the fish if the population gets so high they are competing for organics. nutrients leached from fish food -- particularly sinking foods and gel foods -- which can create a biofilm on top of the water dust, leaves, and other stuff that gets blown into the pond by the wind. Topping off increases the concentration of all dissolved materials. Suppose you put a glass of tap water on the kitchen counter. When half of the water has evaporated, you top off the glass with more tap water, and repeat this several times. would you drink the water in the glass?
  12. Your filter nitrifiers may produce some nitrate and the pothos (a land plant that uses nitrate) may just gobble it all up. I don't know your water change schedule, but with ammonia in your tap water, you should consider small frequent water changes so that you never have much ammonia in the tank. Changing 10% of the water daily maintains the average water quality as well as a 50% weekly water change, and you never have more than 0.1 ppm ammonia, which should be gone in a few hours.
  13. Did you put the water with 1 ppm ammonia into the fish pond? Do you use Seachem Prime daily to Protect the fish from ammonia? While aquatic plants do use ammonia, you don't have many plants in there. Hornwort can consume a lot of ammonia if you have a lot of hornwort. Do your fish actually eat it? Mine won't. Your sponge filter doesn't appear to have enough nitrifiers to handle the ammonia since you don't see any nitrite or nitrate.
  14. Thoughts on using H2O2 for treatment?

    That source has a lot of misinformation. I wonder what chemical reaction they propose for salt removing oxygen from the water. I'm sure hydrogen peroxide will kill algae, and your nitrifiers as well. The rotting dead algae will remove oxygen from the water. You can use hydrogen peroxide to swab a infected area once. Repeated use irritates the lesion. You can follow up the peroxide with daily swabs with iodine, preferably betadine, which doesn't sting at all.
  15. Please start a new thread in Disease diagnosis. Start by filling out this form: Please copy & paste the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems. If copy and paste doesn't work for you, just quote this post and fill out the form. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? * Water temperature? * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? * How often do you change the water and how much? * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? * How many fish in the tank and their size? * What kind of water additives or conditioners? * What do you feed your fish and how often? * Any new fish added to the tank? * Any medications added to the tank? * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
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