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Kokos Goldfish Forum


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  1. That definitely makes me feel better. It's so hard since the bacteria need the ammonia but you can't have ammonia with the fish... it's like I have no idea what to be doing. Is there a "safe" level I can keep the ammonia at so that the bacteria stand a chance but the fish won't suffer?
  2. Sorry to be such a bother with all of the cycle questions. I have now had The Freds for a full month (as of tomorrow). I have not been able to let the ammonia levels over a 1.0 b/c of the toxicity issue. I still have a reading of 0 nitrites. The ammonia is usually around a .5 before I do the first water change of the day. I have added Special Blend to the tank twice now, directly to the filter. Is it normal for there to be no signs of nitrites at all? I know it's a lengthy process and I did not expect it to happen over night, I just want to make sure there isn't something else I should be doing... Can I add something to my filter for the beneficial bacteria to grow on? My filter does not use sponges so I'm not sure if it's okay to add something like that to the extra space that's in the filter. Is there some kind of media I can put in a bag or something? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Again, thanks for your patience and all of your help over the past month.
  3. I have decided that you're all right, which is why I bought the API test to begin with. I'm just going to have someone double check it for me b/c I'm really having trouble with the greens. It was an issue for me when I took biochem in college too so I'm not surprised.
  4. I bought the API b/c it's the name I saw the most on here and b/c it had readings as low as .25 where a few of the other tests I saw had the first result as a range of .5-1.0 that's not really that helpful for me! It's just frustrating I guess. When in doubt, do a water change I suppose. I mean, it can't really hurt I guess. I just know I need some ammonia in order to get the bacteria going.
  5. I gave up and did a water change just to be safe. I retested and the color was lighter, now it's between a .25 and a .5 for sure depending on the light hitting it so it's a good thing I changed it. I hate this test kit though. It's hard to read, maybe I'm just color blind or something, I don't know, I use the API kit, so if anyone has a better suggestion I am open to it.
  6. That is what I usually do as well. When I do this, the color is much lighter than if I had the tube directly touching the card with the light behind me. Normally, it's not a big difference but today, maybe it's the lighting since the weather has changed, the difference is quite noticeable. Thank you for responding. I have been feeling quite anxious.
  7. When checking the color of an ammonia test (API Liquid goes from yellow to dark green) should you hold the tube directly on the card and not let any light shine through it, or should you hold it directly above the card to avoid a shadow on the glass? If I hold the tube a tiny bit away from the card it is a light green, maybe a .25 If I hold it directly on the card it looks like a 1.0 Since I'm still cycling this is a big difference. I know there has to be some ammonia in the tank in order for the bacteria to feed/grow whatever it does and that I'm supposed to do a water change to keep in under 1.0 So, do I do a 50-75% water change b/c this test says it's 1.0 ? Or do I do a smaller/no water change since it's actually a .25 ?
  8. I am going away for 8 days in September and I am already completely freaking out about it. I don't think anyone will do huge daily water changes for me while we're away. I really hope the cycle kicks in by then and I can do a big water change the night before we leave. Ugh. The stress!! I do love my Freds though. They have grown on me and they are just so cute! Big Fred seems to like me too. Everytime I have to do something in the tank he wiggles into my hand. It's quite strange.
  9. The GPH is the thing you want to have at 10x right? I believe that the total was defintely at the 10x point before I put the smaller filter in the tank. I like the idea of keeping the smaller media in the larger filter for emergencies and to help keep the cycling from bumping.
  10. I have 2 air stones in the tank now. 1 large one that is either 12 or 14 inches and a smaller one that is 6 inches. The water level is always a bit low due to evaporation since the smaller filter is sitting on the front of the tank right now which is propping the hood open. (it's not really an issue since I don't want the water to get TOO much warmer since most days it's actually over 80. Today is an exception) I will clean out the 10 gallon then. I have several of them laying around. We've had them for so many different animals over the past 5 years it's crazy. But, that's what happens when you rescue everything people hand you. Will I be able to remove the smaller filter at any point? The "main" filter in the tank is a 40-70 gallon filter.
  11. I meant that I could dump the 10 gallon and just start over again with a fishless cycle in there. Hearing that it can take 2 months for the cycle is really helpful. I had been reading that a cycle with fish can take 30-40 days but I was seeing no improvement at all so *fingers crossed* I don't actually mind the water changes. It's a good workout and thankfully I don't pay for water in my building. I will add the bacteria stuff directly to the filter, though, since it will be on and moving the water I don't see how it will help much. At least it will put my mind at ease and give me another step of something that might be helping. Thank you for all the help!
  12. I didn't even think about the stagnant part. you're totally right. Should I attempt a fishless cycle in the 10 gallon? Dump it and just start over? Or would that take just as long/longer than the cycle I'm trying to get going in the 29 gallon? I was told to take the filter from the 10 gallon out of the 20 gallon after 2 weeks. That's today. I can leave the filter cartridge in the larger filter in the area to add extra media if that would be usefull. I can then move the filter to the 10 gallon tank so that the water doesn't get stagnant but there would be no media in the filter, so the bacteria would have to just be growing in the gravel. Am I over thinking all of this?
  13. You have been so very helpful and kind and always quick to respond to every post I've made. Thank you for helping me feel welcome here. I do a daily water change. At least once a day actually. My arms are starting to look pretty nice! I'm hoping that taking out the ammo chips will help. When I first got the fish I couldn't keep the ammonia level under a 4 even with water changes I could never get it around or under .25, but that was before I added them to the bigger tank. I added Special Blend Micro-lift to the tank 7 days ago. The next dose is tomorrow. I just don't really understand how helpful that stuff is if I'm doing big water changes every day since you add it directly to the water... I feel like everything I've seen or read to get the tank to cycle only works if you don't do water changes. Which is why you should always cycle a tank before adding fish and in normal circumstances and in the past that is always what I have done with no issue at all. Doing a cycle with fish is starting to seem impossible. Today marks 3 full weeks of having them. 2 full weeks of them being in the new tank. I am a huge animal rights activist, and an animal rescue person, and it is breaking my heart that nothing I'm doing is working.
  14. I completely removed the ammo chips. There have not been any other fish in the 10 gallon tank. It was the same fish that I moved to the 29 gallon. The 10 gallon has just been sitting on my dining room table waiting to be emptied and cleaned. The 50% (maybe more) water change that I just did in the 29 gallon brought the ammonia under the 25 mark. The 29 gallon is currently at 78 degrees. We're in one of the hottest summers our area has seen in a while, and I'm in a 3rd floor apartment. Even with the fans going across the top of the tank this is as low as it's been able to get. The fish do not appear to be in any kind of stress. I took a video of them to my pond/aquarium center that has been helping me out here and there and they said they seemed to be acting fine. No one is bottom sitting, no gulping at the surface (except when they think I'm going to feed them). Since it's the same fish, from the same tank, do you think adding the gravel would be a good idea? There has been no filter or fish or anything else in that tank since around July 10th. The water in that tank has definitely been over 80 degrees prob closer to 90 degrees since there is no fan or AC in the kitchen. I suppose I could try to wait until the nitrites are 0 again, which would mean the tank is cycled, but does waiting really matter? I don't want to harm the fish since their tank has a 0 nitrite reading. There is no salt in the tank. I was told that could stall the cycle.
  15. I am sorry for posting so many questions. I am sure there are answers to everything I've asked somewhere on the forums. I promise I have tried to do searches but I am so worried that it's a little overwhelming to go through each thread. Thank you so much for all of your help and all of your patience while I take care of my Freds. I just did a 50% water change as the ammonia levels were over 1.0. I also removed the ammochips that I had in the tank for fear that they were stalling the cycle. I have had 0 nitrite readings in the 29 gallon tank. Due mostly to lazyness I never dumped the 10 gallon tank that they were originally in for a week. I decided to test the water today just to see what the levels were at and I got a pretty dramatic reading on nitrites. All of the original gravel is still in the 10 gallon tank. Would it be a good idea to take some of that gravel and put it in the new tank? I took a picture of the test results because I'm not sure what it means, and I think nitrites are still bad for the fish so I don't want to make the levels TOO high for them by adding too much of it... Does that make sense?
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