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RHankinsJr

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About RHankinsJr

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  • Age
    10/09/1979
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    Texarkana, TX
  1. @koko: Thank you for your explanation. I just did not understand what would make it drop from 7.5 then bring it right back up to 7.5 on it's own without any outside influence from my wife or myself. In fact after the fish died I left the tank running and I am going to continue to monitor the pH levels twice daily for the next couple of weeks to see if this 'crash' happens again without water changes ( fishless now of course ). So far the pH is staying stable at 7.5
  2. This can be moved from 911. They both died. @trinket, If the pH did crash, what brought it back up when my wife tested the water before any changes were made to the tank? And what would cause a crash and recovery like that? @newbiefishgirl: I am buffering the water before I introduce it into the tank due to the condition of the tap water. I will get some buff it up and try it instead of proper pH, my only concern with it is the fact that you can overdose it and since I have to pre-condition my water before adding it to the tank this would make it a much more tedious task. But I guess I have to do whatever it takes. What is the difference between these products that makes buff it up the better choice or is it your personal preference?
  3. I use a python to remove water and do the substrate 100% each time. To refill, I mix the water in a 5 gallon buckets using proper ph, and I check the levels on the water before I add it to the tank. I check the water params every wed. and every sat. the ph has always been 7.5 or very close to it. If the ph gets to 7.0 I do a water change, although I have only had to do it for this reason once. I was curious about proper ph as well since you mentioned it. I took a gallon bucket, put the water in then dosed it with 5gal worth of proper ph... stirred it up tested it 7.5. There was no spike to say other than it correcting the ph... I'll test it again in 30m. It might act differently in the tank since as I mentioned before I have crushed coral in the filters. But I *never* overdose it like I did in this test. I am using my newest test kit, it is 3 weeks old. Closest store I have found with the antibiotics is 3 hours away. ***edit** This week I did not do sat or wed testing because I was gone, but upon my arrival back home ( at the end of 2 weeks ) the ph was 7.5 steady. **re-edit** I just realized that I said the ph was originally 8.7 in my first post, that was innacurate. Not sure where I got that number when entering it.
  4. I am not sure if it would be columnaris, when the wife first described them to me that is what I thought as well. But after seeing the pics and looking at them IRL it looks more like they have created a lot of mucous in trying to protect themselves. It is not cottony. That supported your original assumption that it might have been an abnormal trichondia population in the tank. I'll try to locate some of the antibiotics They are not eating. Params are 0nitrite,0nitrate,0ammonia. 7.5ph ~73degrees salted as perscribed.
  5. bump. ph of water on tap is 5.9, I was out of kH, gH test. Changed water ~90%. Was a little more debris ( guessing from feeder ) but not a lot. Nothing out of the way in filters.
  6. Substrate is maybe 1/4" at most spots some may be a little higher from getting moved around in pythoning the water. I have crushed coral in the extra media holders on one of the emporers. When I get home I will test the tap water, the last time I did it was very very low and with a low (gH? whatever the one that keeps it stable is ). Normally at the end of 2 weeks the nitrATE is barely to 10ppm, this time it was larger. Quite possibly due to the feedings having to be done via auto-feeder for the time we were gone. There are no decorations in the tank at all. Thanks, Richard
  7. Thank you for your advice, as soon as I get home I will be doing that right away the nitrATE is high for being at the end of their 2 week cycle. The wife doesn't know how to use the python so it has to wait on me.
  8. [*]Test Results for the Following: [*]Ammonia Level? 0ppm [*]Nitrite Level? 0ppm [*]Nitrate level? 20-25 [*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? 8.7 [*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? ?? [*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Drops [*]Water temperature? 72ish [*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55g and for 1yr approx ( filter has 3yrs of constant use ) [*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? 2 emporer 400s [*]How often do you change the water and how much? every two weeks, 80% [*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 orandas, 5-6" and 4-5" [*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? amquel+, proper ph 7.5 [*]What do you feed your fish and how often? progold 1once daily [*]Any new fish added to the tank? no [*]Any medications added to the tank? no [*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? cloudy color to them, blood in rear fins, some fin rot [*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? bottom sitting, not eating, deep breathing Not sure when this started, we have been gone for the week. They were showing no signs of distress when we left. The wife got home before me and notified me so I had her check the water, snap pics, and I am posting the information. The feeder was still working properly for our time away and was still dropping a small amount of progold and was still set to once a day. don't pay attention to my sig, I have not updated it. These are the two orandas from the 20g tank that were moved into the 55g tank after my ranchu passed. The tank was fully cleaned before we moved them over. We bought all new items for the tank when we moved them and we moved their emporer to the new tank to seed it properly. Tank has had them in it for approx 1 year now. Thanks, Richard
  9. Just bumping incase this got missed. Thanks again.
  10. I have went a couple days over since my post asking if I should continue its use. But I did stop using it yesterday and went back to pro-gold. I have a bubble bar in the tank now being pushed by whisper 100 and I lifted the emporers up some to keep the water broken up more. Do you have any ideas on how to get him moving again? I don't want to chase him around the tank but if that is what I need to do I will. Do I keep the salt up for the time being or should I start dropping it yet? Thanks again for your continued help!
  11. Internet is down in our neck of the woods so I have not been able to upload images. Supposed to be back up today once they get all the trees cleared out from the storms. Thanks.
  12. They are all over from his chubby cheeks to his hind end. The over-do of water changes was due primarily to the fact that in the previous thread where we were discussing this there was talk of things in the water that might have been building up. So really it is just paranoia, being anal, and ready to get him well finally. The gravel had all been removed over the course of the problem to ensure there could not be any nasties lurking beneath it. I have plenty of surface area in the emporers to maintain a pond worth of bacteria ( or so I like to think ). The white spots look like cottony buildup. The wife is going to try her camera out for pictures first thing in the am since my kodak isn't getting the job done. Thanks for your help thus far, sleep well.
  13. No problem, the only tank that I only test with strips on is the beta tank. Everything else has API listed with them I think. I have the bar back in now.
  14. Also, you suggest 50-80% water changes weekly. In two weeks with one ranchu in a 55g tank I have yet came to anywhere near 10ppm nitrate and everything else stays stable. What does the water change take out that can't be seen in the tests? Just curious. As of the time this issue started I am doing 50% every other day, which in the past 7 days I have bumped up to 90 with hard core cleaning performed every other water change ( 4 days ).
  15. All of the fish stores in my area only have the API drop kits that I use. I'll see if I can find a APR one at one of the smaller places. Only times I do the jungle strips is when I want my daughter to feel like she is able to help. I never use them for the results that I give on the board other than kH&gH early on. The APR kit is more accurate than the API kit? Their numbers will be the same as mine, they use the same API drop kits that I use to check my stuff at home. And I use two different kits to ensure that my reagents aren't going bad. I'll run some up there tomorrow after work, closest fish store is over an hour away from me. I'll put a bubble bar back in, the two emporers make pretty good spashing as it is and put tons of bubbles into the mix, but I'll add more if needed. The wands were removed to keep him from sitting upside down in the tank from eating bubbles all day long. Still trying to get more clear pics up. p.s. when I google apr test strips it asks me if I mean API. Is that what you meant? If so, thats what I use as stated in the OP & signature.
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