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Everything posted by Erinaceus

  1. HERCULES! He battled the Gorgon, defeated the Hydra and ate all your plants!!!
  2. I think it's likely that this will be an annual thing for us :-)
  3. I was wondering if anyone (of the European kokonuts) is going to this show in the Netherlands: http://www.hollandkoishow.nl/content/index.php?catid=2015&catgroup=2000 We're planning on going anyway, but depending on when other people might be going, we could go either Saturday or Sunday .
  4. I'd also advise trying the more gentle treatments like salt and (half dose) melafix before moving on to harsher treatments like PP (it may well be 'external', but that doesn't mean it's gentle. It's still a shock for the fish, likely with lasting consequences with respect to longevity).
  5. It's best to rinse the filter media (such as sponges) every once in a while, but the really important part is that you do that using water from the tank, not water straight from the tap, otherwise the chlorine in the tap water will kill of (part of) the beneficial bacteria.
  6. Exactly ^_^. Typically, the main part of keeping your goldfish healthy involves keeping your water healthy .
  7. Hi, I just wanted to comment on the following: Above you mention 0 - 5 ppm. 5 ppm is more than 10x above the dangerous level for goldfish, so I wouldn't refer in any way to it as 'low'. (or did you mean 0.5? this is still on the high side if there's fish in the tank). With a fully cycled filter of sufficient size, ammonia and nitrite levels are always at zero, which is essential because any level above zero constitutes a stressor for you fish. Even though e.g. goldfish can cope with 0.25 for a limited amount of time, these levels will act as a low-level chronic stressor, which on the long run will take its toll just as much as a high level acute stressor would.
  8. You already got the best advice that can be given at this stage, but I wanted to add that when you recheck the water parameters, ammonia should be below 0.25 (to be bearable for your fish). If not, it's best to immediately do another water change to make up for the difference. If you then keep tabs on the water parameters, and do the needed water changes to keep ammonia below 0.25, then the water quality will allow the fish to recuperate a bit and allow us to see what we can do further to help them get better .
  9. Products for kickstarting a cycle tend to have varying effectiveness, but generally they won't hurt, so all things being equal it's worth to give it a try. Apart from that, if you wait long enough, the right kind of bacteria should eventually find their way into the tank. But if you're cycling with a fish in the tank, it's better for the fish, as well as for you given the at least daily very large w/c's, that the cycle gets on its way as soon as possible. What are you readings (water parameters) right now? That way we can get an idea of how the cycling is progressing .
  10. What also tends to work (depening on the type of silicone though) is to make a soapy solution. This tends to soften the outer layer of silicone a bit, so if it's a very tin layer, you might be able to get it of that way. That's to say, if the alcohol doesn't work .
  11. Very true. All things considered, actively guarding against high levels of nitrates (as well as a bunch of other stuff) while also carefully monitoring your water parameters is the best way to go if you want a healthy tank (and therefore healthy fish) .
  12. Enjoyment succesfully established ^_^ Are your black moors made of black satin or black silk? I can't tell in the pictures
  13. Sorry to drop in this late in the discussion, but I felt it necessary to stress that you need a functional and fully cycled filter to turn ammonia into nitrate (for what it means to have a 'cycled' filter, please read the pages linked to in my signature below). If that isn't in working order, all other things like salt and medication are beside the point, because good water conditions are to fish what oxygen is to us (in which case medication would be what food and water is to us: pointless if you don't have oxygen). So to be able to judge whether your filter is fully cycled, we need need to know the following water parameters (as a bare minimum!): ammonia nitrites nitrates pH You're lucky Stakos is here giving you advice: she's one the best helpers here and has the spotless fish record to show for it, so her advice is worth its weight in gold. So please don't dismiss it out of hand . With regard to salt: it's one of the first types of medication that should be used, at least in a lot of case, but it's definitely not a good idea to. Not so long ago, Chrissy (another really experienced helper) recently gave a good explanation of this (link). I hope all the issues get sorted out. Best of luck!
  14. We get 10-15 ppm out of the tap, so it's practically impossible for us to get <10 ppm nitrate (barring green water of course). But as far as I've always heard, although lower is of course better, anything below 20 is considered safe and things typically only tend to get hazardous when you're approaching 40 ppm. That doesn't mean that 20-25 would be acceptable over longer periods of time, but it does indicate that 10 ppm isn't worth worrying about (even with, say, a 50% measurement error).
  15. That would be great . And if so, details on how you managed to make the control solution would also be really appreciated ^_^.
  16. Given the size of the tank, I'd expect it to be in the 1-5 ppm range, not up to 30 ppm, so it's in essence possible to make some (ballpark) estimates. But even for 3 ppm/fish/week vs 4 or 5 ppm/fish/week (for a given size of fish), there's a rather large degree of uncertainty, which would increase dramatically when the number of goldfish in a tank increases (even if we were to keep fish lengt or body mass constant per tank volume). To make things even more difficult, over the course of subsequent water changes that uncertainty would slowly accumulate, and as a result to only way to get a fix on the levels would be to do a test (which might just as well be off by, say, 10 or 20%, but which would be far less that the uncertainty that accumulated when only doing the calculations). Hope this helps .. (and if something I've said isn't clear or doesn't make sense, don't hesitate to tell me )
  17. As Alex mentioned, nitrate production can be affected by such a wide range of factors that it's very difficult to predict it except by past experience, that is by what nitrates were produced the weeks before (even a given tank can evolve over time so that this figure changes). With regard to the amount per length of time per time, ammonia (and as a result nitrate) production is dependent on metabolic activity, which differs between types of goldfish but which is also typically not linearly related to body length (or if I recall correctly even body mass), so although I think it would be possible to create a statistical model which predicts nitrate production, I think you'd need hundreds if not thousands of goldfish, measures throughout their lifetime, which isn't exactly practical for most people, while for a scientist it's just to applied/practical/specific to be of much interest :-/. It is a nice idea though, so it's too bad it's not really doable :s
  18. This is what our tank and its internal filter look (found this image online). The filter itself is about 6" by 4", so the internal volume isn't big. For more information on the water pump, I think Miki will be able to offer some information.
  19. I'm glad there on the mend, and I'm crossing my fingers for amico! And I second Miki said: this topic is one for the books .
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