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Kokos Goldfish Forum

DataGuru

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    Thedataguru2001

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  1. That's Stripe, my color changing goldie. He was one of my first after I got a clue about water quality and he was a sweetie. He started out bright red and white and lost his color quite rapidly. I was devastated when he died in only a few years despite me keeping the water happy and giving them a healthy diet. http://okfishppl.info/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=3&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=13&t=505 I'm glad you're quarantining the newby. Are you going to steal cycled biomedia from your existing tank to cycle it? And is you medicine cabinet stocked to be able to deal with flukes, other external parasites, internal parasites and bacterial issues? I'm not sure it matters what type of store you get your newby from as long as the conditions there aren't horrible, as they all likely get their goldies from mass production fish farms. I don't even think paying high dollar from an online auction gets you any guarantees that the fish will be healthy. I picked up my last four newbies at wally world as I've been looking for calicos with longer bodies in the hope of breeding what I think should be more robust Watonai type goldies. I believe those guys came from a large fish farm in Florida. They did end up getting sick, but are happy and healthy now because I was paying close attention and started antibiotics when their symptoms emerged. I do agree that there is quite a bit of variation in how robust individual goldies are, so spending the time watching them to attempt to pick out a robust fish is your best bet, tho it's still not a guarantee. IMO making sure the water is happy, looking at symptoms and deciding on an appropriate course of treatment (the best drugs at the right delivery method, dose and duration) is the way to go. I do remember what it was like way back when, when I used to post here a lot. Way too many sick fish and iffy advice coming from anyone. Limiting advise to moderators should work if you have enough moderators who are well versed on water quality and diagnosis/treatment to handle the sick fish posts in a timely manner. Tho I wonder tho how many of you could tell me why you'd use something like trimethoprim rather than triple sulfa, or kanamycin rather than nitrofurazone? or when kanamycin wouldn't be appropriate and why? or why fortaz is better than baytril? or how specifically to dose baking soda to raise KH safely and keep pH stable? or when you wouldn't want to do that and why? On the flip side you lose out on other's expertise, tho that comes with having to make sure it's good advice (which again goes back to moderators having the knowledge to be able to differentiate between good and not so good advice as well as their skills at dealing with people). and again on the flip side, by limiting advice to moderators, you may not miss or alienate the geeky people who do show up and could help. It's an interesting conundrum especially with the volume of posts you get here.
  2. Excess fluid around the eyeball can be the first sign that the fish is becoming fluid overloaded, especially if the fluid inside the eye is clear rather than cloudy (cloudy would suggest an infection). Pineconing is basically the result kidney failure. Water, since it's lower in solutes than the fish, constantly tries to get into the fish. There are two mechanisms for offloading excess water.. the gills and the kidneys. Freshwater fish pee about a third of their body weight per day in dilute urine, so when that is impaired their gills try and compensate, but they can't get rid of all the extra fluid. It builds up in the area around the eyes, and both in their belly and in their tissues resulting in the enlarged belly and scales sticking out. By the time you see pineconing, it's likely already too late to save the fish. Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate. Mag sulfate is one of the main components of water hardness (GH) as is calcium. Calcium is also very important in osmoregulation. When a fish is retaining fluid, raising GH to around 250ppm helps reduce the pressure of water trying to get into the fish because it raises the solute levels of the water to approximately that of those inside the fish.. and thus decreases the amount of effort they have to expend trying to offload extra fluid. That can be accomplished with mag sulfate, and/or calcium chloride. I prefer adding calcium because it plays a more central role in osmoregulation. Here's a thread where I researched it. Adding sodium chloride at 1 teaspoon per gallon also increases solutes in the water, however even with .1% salt, the amount of solutes in the water is still well below the levels inside the fish. There is absolutely no reason that I know of that you can't use sodium chloride and mag sulfate together. I do not think the meds killed the fish, tho the quick cure was not necessary given their were no signs of external parasites and could have been stressful since the formalin reduces oxygen saturation in the water. I think the kidneys were already impaired which could be due to a number of things. e.g. I just necropsied a wakin goldfish whose kidneys had turned into fluid filled cysts (polycystic kidney disease), so not all thing that trash the kidneys are bacterial... but then bacterial is about the only thing we have a chance of fixing. Making sure the water was happy and starting antibiotics, preferably orally or by injection would have been my preferred method of treatment. Tho with kanamycin, I would not dose it more than 7-10 days as it can be nephrotoxic with prolonged use. Do keep an eye on water quality. How toxic ammonia is depends on your pH and water temperature. http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html Having the extra salt in the tank may be a good thing if your biofilter isn't happy as the chloride helps protect against nitrIte poisoning. I'd maintain it at 1 teaspoon per gallon if you see nitrIte and then after nitrIte drops to 0ppm let water changes remove it over time.
  3. Thanks! Oh, it's frigging hectic as usual. LOL I'm sooo glad it's Friday! I get to go save some more goldies and other fish from a pet store tomorrow where the new owner is threatening to throw them in the dumpster. Got to go visit Tommy this summer! got me a nice calico wakin girl. Martha: well come on down. We don't have many goldie folk in our aquarium club.
  4. Hi guys, I scanned the current forums and couldn't figure out where to post this. Please move it to the appropriate forum... thanks! Betty Come join us for the first annual Oklahoma Aquarium Association Spring Auction! http://okcaa.org/OKAASpringAuction.html Location: Cleveland County Fairgrounds auditorium, 615 E. Robinson, Norman, OK 73071. (map) Date: April 4th, 2009 Check in: 9:30-11am; Auction begins: 11am Split: The first dollar of every sale goes to OKAA. Every dollar after the first dollar is split with 80% going to the seller and 20% going to OKAA. This is a somewhat different split than you might be used to. It is meant to encourage you to bring bigger dollar items and leave the small dollar items at home (or to combine those small dollar items into fewer, larger dollar items). In other words, bring the good stuff! We hope to see you there!
  5. That looks just like what we think is a sporazoan parasite. I'd feed something with metronidazole in it... e.g. metromeds.
  6. Hey Paul, Have you used Chloramine-T in a cycled tank yet? If so, did it mess with your biofilter? Thanks,
  7. Well, of course he died. you chose not to treat him and put him in the freezer. I hope you will stock a medicine cabinet for when your goldies get sick. Finquel is a much kinder way to kill a fish.
  8. If you can't get injectable Baytril, my second choice would be tricide neo dips combined with medikoi or medigold medicated food. So what do the ulcers look like?
  9. So is it blisters or more like pimples that fall out and leave an ulcer or ooz white stuff? Check out this thread. Does that look like it?
  10. Thanks Andrea. I'm tempted to make some goldie cards for next year.
  11. Hope everyone is having a great holiday season!
  12. As long as you're not showing ammonia, pH of 8.4 is fine. I'd just use the tap water myself. A series of small partial water changes using the tap water should be fine for the transition. If you're cycling, it would be better to mix the two to get pH in the low to mid 7s. That'll make ammonia less toxic while your biofilter bacteria get up to speed.
  13. Adding more of the Seachem De*Nitrate couldn't hurt. I'm trying a product called nitra-zorb at the moment. I'm kinda overstocked at the moment so it's difficult to tell if it helps. Fast growing plants may help if you have enough light. There are also anaerobic denitrification units you can build or buy.
  14. You can make a test tube holder out of a flat tupperware bowl by drilling or burning holes in the bottom of the bowl.
  15. no, the water softening pillow probably won't help. What's the range of your pH test? What are your GH and KH? A safe way to reduce pH would be to mix your tap water with either distilled or R/O water. but until we actually know what your pH is I wouldn't recommend messing with it. Do you have an ammonia test?
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