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2601angela

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Everything posted by 2601angela

  1. Sometimes the addition of a plant area for them to go to will also reduce or eliminate thios problem.
  2. There has been various comments in literature concerning red caps and Orange red orandas and alike resting this way - unlike Pearlscales - they have determined that this is natural due to the un - natural weight of the wen on the front of the body in relation to the location of the Swim bladder.
  3. Here is the double edged sword - (by the way the primary food forthe algae of this type is Nitrate - it does not affect ammonia.) I applaud Lucky13 for her comments. You are the first person I have ever heard that actually allows the algae to accumulate on the back of the tank - yes it is much nicer than the artificial curtains - One Note - do not be so fast to clean it off of the orntaments - allow a patch or two remain on the light spots to determine the rate of growth - as I have said - algae is the firstr responder to nitrate accumulation - warns you of an ammonia spike that has occured - and is a great buffer for Nitrate buildup - although that is not the primary toxin to your fish. Don't overdo the scrubbing idea. Water wysteria are the best plants- I find - for algae accumulation. The bigger - lower ones get the brown algae as the plant grows and reduces the light reaching the old leaves. The new ones grow out bright green -ners clip these leaves off even while they are green on the underside. This is great roughage for the goldies - It is not hard to put up with the little pieces that float to the top during your normal main. In fact - I have found tanks that happen to have more plant feeders must have more due-dilligance in maintaining a nopn toxic tank - they are - clearly - ingesting more material and spewing out more waste - in fact - i have adjusted those tanks feeding habits accordingly and spaced out smaller feedings more often to offset any negative toxin effects. One of my male Orandas - Thurston - Seems to have as much desire for algae and plant leaves as Bonnie and Clyde had for robbery. I am a confirmed Plant person - most of my tanks are likened to the jungles of Colombia. They have clearings in the front - and so on - for resting etc - but the plants give the females a rest from the Horney Meerkat aquapuppies. Back to algae. My Goldies love the older thicker algae for some reason - Lucky13 try as I do - remove bits and pieces of the old algae areas once and a while - and allow it to float in the water - most goldies will love this event - especially the little chunks. They way to keep that form of algae thriving in very low Nitrate conditions is to have your return spray bar just above the water surface directed at the back side of the tank. That creates great aggitation and consistantly covers the algae in Oxygen. Lucky13 - If your water from the tap is fine and non-toxic- consider it may be time for you to walk away from the testing nipple for toxins. If you can say you have evened out feeding to a much lower level than when you started, have developed the daily water change routine and have good control on the algae growth - Then stop giving companies like API extra money for the test Kits ammonia, Nitrite and alike - or start weaning from them - Then again if you are not on a daily water change regiment etc... then it is impossibler to wean yourself away. I wrote a "brown water from the tap" topic the other day - look at it....
  4. would you not feel more comfortable - maybe a little more cost as some equiptment is repetitive - but having 2 95 gallons - just thgink if you have a leak you limit the mortality rate - if you have an infection it is isolated to half the group - what if you wish to get schooling fish later on and some are not compatible with goldies.... if you ever have to move it - hmmmm.... Think very strongly on this issue - maybe one of these reasons is the reason the person is selling it for a great price LOL - just think a third time before such a large tank....
  5. LOL - well Daryl you should have been a politician - Yeah the cause of the bad water is the lack of changing the water and the size is amaller - therefore it becomes polluted faster - but the physical dimensions on just the physical dimensions alone without regard to the personms habits of taking care of the little tyke- have no effect - thus as you remember - the old wives tale concerning the goldfish bowl theory related to size of physical bowl related to stunting the growth of a fish - what offic eare you running for????LOL
  6. My B.S.; Horticulture - M.S.; Genetic engineering and doctorate; area - in a large nutshell -manipulation of/ and use of - organic compounds and naturally occuring biodefense machinisms such as TH - 6040 (Dimilin) as alternatives in Pest control management. My "trek" to the Union Carbide situation was due to my appointment as an FMC Corp; agricultural chemical division emergency response team specialist in the area of Methylisocyanate use in the production of the insecticide development programs for the industrial production of Sevin. The TH-6040 studies led me down a lenthy path of aquatic studies in that -depending on how and where it was used (sandy soil, etc...) we needed a clear fix on developing a timley breakdown process - so that by the time it reached - say Chesepeake bay - from the crop areas of New Jersey (very sandy soils) iots effects were mitigated by subatantial breakdown. This was especially important for affects on Crustacean. Now you know why my answers tend to be long and quite detailed - almost to the point of "overbearing". LOL
  7. According to the Museum of Natural History studies - the belief that size is related to the bowl size, as related to total volume does not apply - and in the case example of Koi - theymaintain genetics - diet makeup within the first year of their growth period - and seemingly a not so distant third in the lineup - the natural seasonal process - the shorter days with greater degrees in fluxuatiuon verses the natural increases in temp in the spring create a genetic growth spurt that makes growth in specific seasonal periods outperform the artificial stabalized conditions many keepers provide their aquapuppies. Daryl was right - did you make a mistake in your measurements - if not - are you stocking with guppies or goldies?????
  8. What is it that u are using as the bottom medium if I may ask? How is your new aquapuppy doing? Are you certain it was dropsey that you saw that you mentioned at the beginning of this thread??
  9. you said that he was old enough to know better - then you say - "I just think that he is very young, and he wouldn't be so bad if his parent would punish him for being bad! " If he is old enough to know better; then the excuse that he is very young doesa not apply. I am not scolding you for your forgiveness - mind you - and that is a good quality - Just be mindful of what justifies your forgiveness. As older people - such as myself - tend to absolve politicians of their wrongdoing by our inaction and chalk it up to "tollerance"; Allowing them leadway gives them justification to do it again. Be wary, keep a sharp eye. By the way; if your outside pond is very small; there are very inexpensive, really inexpensive ways, to cover your pond with a netting. I used that when, in Maryland, the cranes would come in to try a feast at my Koi.
  10. Lets break this down thru an answer to an algae question posted on this forum- but it applies to everyone; Basically the brown algae is under lower light conditions - The greener algae is under higher light conditions - but I believe we have skirted from the real issue here- NITRATE - if your water quality is good and your Nitrates are almost non existant - Algae will grow as slow as oak trees grow. You mwntioned feeding algae wafers- and then the algae did, what we call, bloom. It stands to reason. The algae wafers have a tendency to cause more excretion by way of how the fishes body breaks it down, developing toxins such as ammonia - your cycle must be running properly - because the primary source of food, by algae - is Nitrate - so you have gone thru the Ammonia, nitrate to nitrate cycle. However - this also shows signs of Toxin spikes- it already occured. I use a patch of algae to tell me how the regulation of nitrate is occuring in the tank - algae growing to fast indicates I am feeding to much or poorer water conditions. step up your water changes and smooth out the feeding process. You will be better for it - Remember the algae will not bloom like that unless you give themn a food sopurce - all the light in the world will not produce more algae in your tank unless you provide them with the Nitrate food source. This is not unlike a case where I was called in to survey a problem in Luray Caverns. Blooms of algae were occuring on the wall where visitors were comming to view the caves - really affecting the natural beauty. When I got there; they were taking bleach and frantically treating the walls of the cave to destroy the algae. But in the process - various creatures were dying in the small pools of water from the high concentrations of chlorine. They could not figure out the problem. But in my profession the answer was simple. During the previous 6 months they dramatically increased the lighting of the visitors areas. By doing this - they used bulbs that provided the wavelengths of light in much greater intensity that algae thrive on. So in this case they completed the circle of needs. - Nitrates in the water and other nutrients - and now the high intensity wavelength needed for the specific algae that was ravaging the caves. We stopped the chlorine. We changed the lighting wavelengths - like the choices you have in your aquarium bulbs - and the growth stopped. the color of the new bulbs was actually more appealing than the stark white, to the tourist, and brought the conditions to a closer realm of nature - though no light was the untimate in cave conditions. Your maintaining the tank to ultralow Nitrates by frequent water changes, in the same way, breakes that natural cycle as changing the wavelength of light does.
  11. Lets break this down; Basically the brown algae is under lower light conditions - The greener algae is under higher light conditions - but I believe we have skirted from the real issue here- NITRATE - if your water quality is good and your Nitrates are almost non existant - Algae will grow as slow as oak trees grow. You mwntioned feeding algae wafers- and then the algae did, what we call, bloom. It stands to reason. The algae wafers have a tendency to cause more excretion by way of how the fishes body breaks it down, developing toxins such as ammonia - your cycle must be running properly - because the primary source of food, by algae - is Nitrate - so you have gone thru the Ammonia, nitrate to nitrate cycle. However - this also shows signs of Toxin spikes- it already occured. I use a patch of algae to tell me how the regulation of nitrate is occuring in the tank - algae growing to fast indicates I am feeding to much or poorer water conditions. step up your water changes and smooth out the feeding process. You will be better for it - Remember the algae will not bloom like that unless you give themn a food sopurce - all the light in the world will not produce more algae in your tank unless you provide them with the Nitrate food source.
  12. 1 -that is one - ono- rounded tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons of water. when changing your water add salt in direct proportion - for example - my tanks run on 1/2 teaspoon per gallon during changes. This is assuming that the tank by the time of water change - is in a uniform state - that is - equal amounts of salt has solubolized in every gallon of water - so the replacement gallon equals the amount of salt I am taking out. Try not to allow this to fluxuate as that can stress them out. As well - Understanding the basics - in some way - I believe - helps you understand your fishes environment -you should understand the rationale - or more than one reason - for the addition of salt. One of the great reasons is that it regulates the osmotic potential of their body and its ability to take up and exchange things like nutrients. You may remember in school; the membrane that had a higher concentration of colored stuff - say salt in the bag and the less concentration of - say salt- in the fluid outside the bag. NOW do you remember which way the color ended up - diluted inside the bag or flowing toward the outside of the bag - use your memory - The point is the membrane bag allowed the system to equilibrate - or equalize the concentrations of the fluid until the same concentrations were accomplished on both sides of the bag. Well; the fish is in the similar prediciment. Adding salt helps stabalize this effect so there is a better flow across the fishes various membranes of the things he needs without his body stressing out fighting for everything. Do not confuse the addition of salt and the resulting tank as a BRACKISH tank when you read articles. that is not the same.. I feel it is not just important to get quick answers with fish - but also attempt to associate the why part of the answer - your aquapuppy will be the better one for it....
  13. You did not mention how many times a week you change your water - you only mentioned the one change - That aside; Be careful with how much aeration that you do. high aeration, as I have mentioned in a previous topic, is not usually necessary. It has not been shown to substantially change the Oxygen parameters in the tank unless the water quality is marginal. If you have a tendency to feed more that what they need; soluble proteins build up in the water. As the aeration occurs; the proteins latch onto the bubbles for a ride to the surface. there they stay until they are removed or disloged by a an aggitation downward. This is the reason many salt and freshwater people use protein skimmers - for this same tendency to get at the protein goodies. As your fish gets older their dietary needs change. Observe the habit of "sucking " on the top - is your aquapuppy actually sucking on air or is he primarily sucking in water. Is the snout mostly under the surface. If that is the case; your puppy is taking in the tasty proteins just under the surface; like a wale does to krill. Two things can deter this - a protein skinner; or raise your return water rod of the filkter or wet/dry wave action retuirn so that it is just over the surface. In my case; my wet dry rod is above the surface untill the system expells the water back into the tank - occuring about once a minute. this aggitates the surface and breaks up the proteinized surface. I find thios habit starts to occur with a lotr of Goldies - all of a sudden in about the first year of age it is not gradual. Sometimes I actually feel, stupid as it may sound, that if you have one starting it - it is almost as if the habit is an instant fad in the tank................LOL
  14. DO IT !! take the time to stop by - before it leaves your thought to do so.
  15. Chubbygold - Hold on to your young development in caring for other animals not so fortunate as you - keep the gift of caring and the right to grieve over something to all of us so special- you will be a better grown up for it - - maybe it will be those, like you, that our future will depend on to make humans understand that we must look at animals, and nature (less than 1000 Panda bears left in the world) more thru the eyes of Jane Goodhall (which I grew up with knowing) then the eyes of closed minded politicians - Keep your stand against those that scold you - This is one of those few cases that there is nothing wrong with disapproving of your family's response - They should be more concerned with your Cousins inability to understand why it is wrong to allow something to die - or cause it to die - unless your cousin is to small to understand. I related a story about my godchild here in the topics; my Godchild did not know any better - he wanted to take his Oranda to show off like people did with their dogs in the park - so he put his Oranda in the back of his red wagon without water - and of course it died - he did not know the difference - now he understands - I hope your family explained to your cousin the difference if it was simply the fact that he did not know he was doing wrong. If he did know the difference - he should have been the one being scolded.
  16. This may be long but, I feel, is the only way for a wake-up call; I read a lot of the topics and their contents here in the ?blog of fish?. I do not think I am going beyond the boundaries when I say; I believe many others, in the ?business or hobby? that have done this quite a while would agreed (to some part) of what I say here. Many problems that cause a Hobbyist to ?freak out? and stress out is not due to an immediate attacked that could not have been prevented. The one thing I am ? almost always ? faced with is the primary and secondary affects of water quality. I submit; I believe 75% of the issues stated in this forum ? as problems ? are secondary effects to a primary killer ? water quality. I have written a few articles, in mags ? on this very issue. However; it continues to be a predominant cause of primary and secondary causal effects in fish mortality. Especially for Goldies. I have been in communication with one of the individuals on this site that told me that she changed water once a week and was experiencing Toxic spikes ? and wondered why. You can tell by my response I am always in a lot of detail and I appreciate here contact. I realize that the problem is not the lack of knowledge; but rather the lack of some of us long in the profession to focus on what is the true priority and most urgent factor to maintain a healthy aqua-puppy. Goldies are some of the most resilient fish to environment changes. They are some of the most adaptive to a wide variety of pH ? from 7.0 to 8.2 ? sometimes even wider ? buffer capacity, and the shock of adding buckets of water to tanks rather than the slow addition. The list goes on and on; even the buildup of Nitrates at some rather significant levels. However ? the one thing they will not stand for is the presence of Ammonia and Nitrite. They react to this like a human would to the trace presence of cyanide in the air ? I should know - I was one of the researchers who responded to the Union Carbide Disaster in Bhopal, India during the release of Cyanide gas from the plant. If this topic could save one fish from disaster ? I will try to impress, impress, overdo the idea. If you cannot commit to water changes on a daily basis then, as in many cases, expect to loose your most cherished companion. Even in the case of cycling a tank ? the water change process should be a part of every day life ? like taking a shower is to most people (LOL)> In my case ? all my tanks get a double change per day ? once in the morning and once in the evening. 30% on each change minimum along with a suction vacuum of a different part of the tanks during the morning change. I know Hobbyist that swear by 100% changes per day; their physical problems list is almost non- existent. The changes are twice a day ? 50 ? 50 there is never a chance for pH waver (except as sometimes caused by the output of the water company). Water quality levels remain consistent. Does this sound like a lot of work ? I do not think I have experienced ? other than human being death ? the grief I felt from the death of one of my favorite aqua ? puppies ? This grief level is uncanny ? and is something to be avoided if at all possible. Maybe and possibly my water change levels are better suited to you at 30 ? 30%. The alternative ? however ? is the exponential increase in the chancing of physical harm or mortality. As well; it is not just the Pooh you see coming from the fish ? it is the invisible liquid byproducts that they excrete between those releases as well. It is hard to place this is Human terms ? so placing it in relation to the White Dolphins of China (porpoise possibly ? excuse the possible mistake). A person thought he was rescuing 5 individuals ? and placed them in a small swimming pool and contacted an international rescue organization ? by the time they got there a week later ? 2 had died and 3 were in the process of dying. The ?keeper? thought that, being airbreathing creatures ? they would survive - - so he did not change the water that week ? in the pool. Of course ? they were living in their own excrement and drinking their waste as the only source of water. They were being fed ? how nice ? the double kill ?. Imagine you being forced to do the same with the excrement from your bathroom ? daily ? NO it is not a pleasant thought. That is the point. This is not meant to enrage but to educate and ? in some way ? bring some people to a level plain of understanding. You have a choice not to imbibe your excrement ? they depend on you to help them prevent this problem ? Filters do not do it all. Certainly filters are not instantaneous in their responses to the presence of toxins in the water. They give (I know from personal experience) a false sense of security. You depend on the water companies (like I do in Chicago```` with polluted Lake Michigan water) to remove all of those waste and toxins ? they dump human waste and Mercury into the lake and then we pay to have it removed from the water DUHHHH!!!! Your filter system ? in most cases on your tanks ? are no-where near that good. Think about this when you drink water or wash dishes. While you have that moment of thought -= get the bucket out and do that added water change daily - Your aquapuppies water is coming out brown from his or her tap ? yours is coming out clean and clear.``````````````````` I hope this saves at least one aqua-puppy from stress or death?.
  17. Note the clearing of gills is not for every case. - in response to Trance like stste - Punch will be in his comotose state - I place my hand in and his awareness is enough that it does not startle him if I touch himn while in this state - There has been a lot of work done on this but it is shown on millitary sites - if you have access to those sites - in fact the millitary has donme more work in this area than most other foundations or government agencies. As far as bad water is concerned - it is more likely that you will see an increase in "breathing speed" before the yawning could be possibly considered as a yellow light to determine water quality. In fact; if you have multiple fish in the tank; there is, usually, one among them that is more sensitive to toxins in the water and would be the first to show signs of water problems - the Paul Revere of the tank so to speak. Observe your fish and individual habits for 5 minutes a day - these traits will become obvious over time.
  18. I think Ryuu understated the issue - They do not make just a lot of waste - I believe they manufacture more waste inside just to taunt us as being the most incredibly waste producing creature I have eever dealt with - You may want to stop feeding your fish for 2 days or so - or at most a natural no salt cooked pea a day - it will not hurt the fish - they are prepared naturally for this - they have been known to be ok for over 7 days - but I would not push that - changing the water at the sae time - less waste in - less waste out on the goldies
  19. Actually they are not Oblivious - they are in a trance like state - but they are aware of what is going on around them.
  20. If you think about cloning it - make sure we have first dibs LOL
  21. If you get much higher it will produce stress and flareups like ICH - One person commented about allowing temp. flux - I totally agree it stimulates their natural cycle - and enhances their color like it does to Koi. Every day I feel so fortunate that I am able to have a chiller - and I feel real sadness for those that cannot afford or aquire one. I know they are expensive. I wish there were a place where used chillers could be offered to those not being able to afford one - that being said. If you have a canister filter - try this - set your canister filter in a small tub - get ice and put the ice all around the canister and allow the filter to sit on the ice as well - pour in a little tap warter to get the melting process started - maintain as necessary during hot spells. For those that have never thought of a chiller but can afford one: I do not know where you are geographically. I have been thru this long ago and far, far, away in another time of prehistoric Goldie mania. Especially if you are, like some, that maintain comfort for the fish 24 hours a day by cooling the entire house; I will guarantee you - The money you initially invest in a small chiller with titanium cooling system and digital read system ? less than $170.00 ? will substantially save on your electric bill and your stress level ? not just the goldies. Great ones may be found at drsfostersmith.com and their catalog ? Prime is a good example. Anything above 79 degrees begins to substantially limit oxygen. As well; you may notice them swimming unusually erratic or fast. This is nature?s way of attempting to cool their body temperatures down. This develops, over time, stress. This opens them to diseases such as ICH. Also I do not know where you place your temp testers in the tank ? for 55 and above- there should be two ? one in each opposite end of the corners of the tank. Digital therm. ? good ones ? can register max of .5 degrees vs. cheaper ones +-2.0. Side important note ? make sure your tank water is grounded ? residual electrostatic charges in tanks cause a number of problems such as hole in the head diseases ? this buildup of charge can come from anything like pumps, hoses, and heaters. If you have a heater ? the ground could save your life in that people have died from broken heaters that they were unaware of when they placed their hands in the water. I use an in-line heater that is controlled by the chiller. However ? I keep the heater unplugged because the variability in temperature dramatically enhances their natural color and entices spawning habits. My tanks stabilize, in the Fall for example ? 77 degrees with no chiller assist during the day, and 71-72 degrees no heater assist at night. This drops in the winter ? but because they have the same attributes as Koi they tend to welcome this temp variation ? especially is some of their habits and characteriatic physical changes with the seasons. You have said nothing about your lighting - if it is sufficient in ?K? is it to close to the water surface or dues it have small fans to draw the heart up out and away from the tank? Reducing the temp affect on the water. Does your uv system add to the temperature of your water. If you add a chiller make sure that your UV filter, if you have one, is placed before the chiller in the lineup- this reduces temp fluxuations in the bigger tanks and catches any rises much faster due to UV work. My UV is made for a 200 gallon setup and tends to heat the water. When it was purchased I was looking too far ahead.
  22. The system would not allow me to edit comething - my paragraph as follows - my apologies First Do a purge of their system by using the standard rates of Epson salts for two times - 2 complete water changes between the treatments. During the treatment feed only 3-4 peas on that day - cooked and a pea with a couple of epsom salt crystals closed up in a pea that you feed - do not worry this will not harm them. Between the first and second epsom salt treatment and after for a toital of 10 days; stop the food that you are feeding - The following is very detailed - but necessary to completly understand the why and how of the process. So; please excuse the detail --- edited it should have read - First Do a purge of their system by using the standard rates of Epson salts for two times - 2 complete water changes between the treatments. During the treatment feed only 3-4 peas on that day - cooked and a pea with a couple of epsom salt crystals closed up in a pea that you feed - do not worry this will not harm them. Between the first and second epsom salt treatment only feed cooked natural peas and corn deshelled- after the second treatment - while the epsom salts are in the water from the second treatment - for a toital of 10 days; stop the food that you normally feed - The following is very detailed - but necessary to completly understand the why and how of the process. So; please excuse the detail ---
  23. Sherry Hit, what I feel, is the great majority of the problem - especially in Pearlscales and Ranchu's in general. However - here is some trials I have made and some determinations. Two things, I feel, are major contributors to this problem - besides breeding. In fact - I believe it is a combination of problems associated - becomming a synergistic nightmare. You may wish to try some of - what I term - the problem resolvers - none of them pose danger to the fish and may reduce, though not eliminate, the problem. If you have a sincere interest in "righting" your fish - try this........... Overfeeding and dry feeding; Nickie73 was on course. These little butterballs are hard to understand - it is not like a dog where you can see the fat. In many cases many owners think they should look like the closet golf ball. Not so. First Do a purge of their system by using the standard rates of Epson salts for two times - 2 complete water changes between the treatments. During the treatment feed only 3-4 peas on that day - cooked and a pea with a couple of epsom salt crystals closed up in a pea that you feed - do not worry this will not harm them. Between the first and second epsom salt treatment and after for a toital of 10 days; stop the food that you are feeding - The following is very detailed - but necessary to completly understand the why and how of the process. So; please excuse the detail ---- Take what you normally feed in the morning and split it in half; to feed the other half in the early evening. It has been determined, by many experts, that straight dry food pellets is a simple NONONONONO?? especially with Goldies. They get impacted with dry food because of their weird genetically designed bodies. Right on Nickie73 Try this; get a little screw down pill crusher ? about $1.00. Take the amount of food that you would feed in the morning ? for example ? I combine three types ? never the same any one feeding (a placebo affect in my thinking it would be boring for me so why not for them ? and have found different responses to eating depending on the variety). For example Omega has a marine food with garlic and lots of omega-3, a veggie round by omega for bottom feeders, and Hikaris Bio Gold. Grind away ? takes but a few seconds. This way you are not restricted to the few sinking types out there ? the food world is yours for the asking. I had to buy a small refrig to hold mine when my other half threatened he with living in the dog house with the fish if the fish products did not leave the family refrigerator. (refrigerate your products for freshness , etc ? ). Now; take a few cooked peas unshelled. The moisture of the peas will help bind the stuff. I take a minute to mush and mush until the pea particles are fairly small. If I need any additional moisture I add a drop or 2 of Viti-Chem ? the amino acid supplement ? great stuff, safe, and cheap ? and goes a long way. You could also use Garlic oil while adding a little flaxseed meal. You will find the consistency that is right for you. Make little torpedoes of the mush. Torpedoes seem to be ?sucked ? up easier. As well; some goldies tend to take balls of mush and actually work them around in their mouths until the ball cannot be broken up and they will spit it out in an hour or so. The consistency should be enough to hold under water but soft enough for them to palletize. It is easy to tell . Do not save the rest. ? discard the remaining and make fresh at the next feeding. This can become a real family thing to do. I make a game of it with the kids. If you drop one or tow ? do not worry about it ? your little aguapuppy vacuum cleaners will find the scraps I assure you. Like dogs ? they never leave a dirty plate. And do not think they do not know where that one morsel went to in the dark deep. In fact: I tested a ?torpedo.? I placed it under several rather large stones ? within 3 minutes ? not only did they ?smell? the presence ? the little suckers burrowed down into the stones and sucked up every particle. Remember now ? you have ground this stuff up. The amount you feed them of the little torpedoes is more concentrated in food than just feeding granules. Small amounts are not necessarily small. By grinding you allow easy digestion and faster breakdown of particles ? by exponentially increasing the surface area of each particle to the digestion process and becoming accessible. Therefore ? you tend to generate less waste of unused product going thru their system and coming out the other end. Also the mush additive of the Peas is great. The mushing allows any future additives of antibacterial or antiparasidic granules without altering your feeding habits ? it is harder for them to separate the medicine from the food ? and they will do this like a dog does with a pill in a piece of hamburger. I guarantee you. While in the "treatment period" try to stay with low fat fish food product 8% or less if possible- if possible use some Hikari Bio-Gold or the marine formula Omega peleted product - with Veggie rounds ground with Daphnia - mushed together with the pea. Include ground predetermined amounts of antiparasidic and antibacterial foods such as what Jungle has - split up in the feedings. - grind it well - Goldies will seperate it out. You can use trhem together - however going beyond the 7-10 day period with medication is a chance of killing good bacteria as well - So do not over - do a good thing - I have seen this occur on overtreated fish. Again - smaller amounts of food is more important than large Once during the day or the evening give a very small sliver of canteloupe or bannana as a treat - low in fat - great for available vitimans like vitiman C-no they are not going to starve. I attempt here is a multiple pronged effect without harming the fish.; 1. Reducing the fat layer on the piglet and reduce pressure on certain organs trying to vie for space and boyancy. Could you imagine a submarine if its air tank size was being reduced bu a fat layer pushing in from the outside. I am not sayiong be as slim as Princess Diania - but a little Jennie Craig has done wonders for many problems like this I have seen. 2. Purging Dry food that has lodged in the system causing distress. The ground product is so much more accessible for the system to handle - especially the slow goings of a goldie system. 3 Treating for Diseases and pathogens in the fish - not in the water. It is more direct. As well; the grinding of the product assists in the metabolism of the medicine without hurting the little one. Most of the time - if it is disease related - it would be due to the buildup of bacteria. It goes without saying the importance of water changes - See - if over a 20 day period - there is any improvement. I have found a lot of success with this concept. Maintain the ground idea - stay away from dry pelleted forms of feeding. The good side to this - It opens the door to so many otherr floating types of foods to try in the future.
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