Jump to content
Kokos Goldfish Forum


Full Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by yazooo

  1. I'd be interested to know how they are doing and whether the food has made any difference (Mind does best on NLS pellets) I've had gulpers on and off over the years. At times it has driven me completely up the wall and i have tried all sorts of interventions to prevent it. My gut instinct is that something isn't right; I don't know what and there appears to be little rhyme or reason to it but in the individuals I have seen it exhibited, it just *feels* wrong, like there is something either irritating their gills or their intestinal tract...... or something! As opposed to just a 'bad habit'. I think the real danger is when it persists- the fish lose ability to easy control buoyancy, day after day, and then eventually the stress of it starts to show with a proclivity towards infection etc... This is what happened to one of mine years ago.
  2. Hi guys, Yes I've tried soaking the food That was one of the earliest things I did- but like I said he is doing this gulping even without being fed anything at all by me. However I noticed something this morning- he was pooping a fair bit of green. And I haven't given him veg in a number of days. So he has been eating his plants. Nothing untoward in that except that the 'fasting' I have been doing isn't really going to be fasting if he's filling himself with greens day and night and then when I do feed him it would be on top of the plant material. I wonder if it might be an idea to temporarily remove the live plants just to give his GI tract a genuine rest? I've ordered this skimmer: https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/accessories/cleaning/new-surface-skimmer So hopefully that will arrive soon. I was also thinking- I don't use any chemical filtration. Perhaps it would be worth running some activated carbon just in case of intangibles in the water supply? I'm disinclined to think that this is the case just based on the other tanks being fine but I suppose you never know if one fish maybe more sensitive than others. Worth a try anyway.
  3. Thanks Chai, I guess it is a possibility....I'm going to look into buying one because I'm getting desperate! Feel like anything is worth a go (within reason) The heavy surface agitation does seem to stop much in the way of a (visible) film forming. I fasted him today and he was fine this morning, fine this afternoon and then started on the air again.... buoyant now. I just can't figure it out at all.
  4. Yeah sure- at the minute I have: NLS Algaemax JBL Gold Pearls JBL Spirulina Flakes A couple of the Hikari pellets- I can't remember their names off the top of my head. Lionhead? I have the Oranda one but never give him that as it's a floating pellet. Tetra Gold Japan Pellets. Tetra Goldfish Flakes Fluval Flakes He's probably best on the JBL Gold Pearls- they are a small pellet. But he can still be poor eating those- there's really nothing of that list that is "safe". And sometimes the teeny tiniest amount will start it off- and like I said sometimes none at all. There is the odd sporadic good day when I think there is a progress and then we're back to square one. Jeana- thanks for your reply It is the most irritating, frustrating thing. I sometimes feel like crying watching him do it. I'm just hopeful that it will stop spontaneously like it did before if there isn't anything that I can do to actively stop it.
  5. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) : 0ppm * Nitrite Level(Tank) : 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tank) : 10ppm at highest between WC * Ammonia Level(Tap) : 0ppm (supply NOT chloraminated) * Nitrite Level(Tap) : 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tap)Very low barely 2ppm. (reads as zero on home tests and official report from Water board has it below 2ppm) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.6 /kh- 7/gH 8 No chloramines in supply. * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7 / kh-1-2/ gh- 2 Supply water very soft. All goldfish water is buffered and remineralised with Aquadur by JBL. Has been for years. Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API, Salifert, Hagen/Nutrafin * Water temperature? 19/20 degrees C (66/68 F) * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 180L - running for years. * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? x2 eheim largest aquaball internal filters. * How often do you change the water and how much? Weekly 80% Filter media squeezed at every WC in old tank water- and water tested every week before and after WC. I keep a log book! * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Thursdays are water change day and 80% changed. * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 Comet, 7 inches approx. * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime Aquadur for adding minerals/buffer * What do you feed your fish and how often? Various commerical dried foods, fresh veg, and frozen (gamma irradiated stuff) * Any new fish added to the tank? No * Any medications added to the tank? See below - none currently in tank. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Over the last load of months the following: Metronidazole Salt 0.1% Flubendazole Prazi esha2000 * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Nope, looks wonderfully healthy. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? See below. Folks I am looking for thoughts on my eldest fish- he's into double figures now. He basically has an air gulp problem and it is driving me to despair and I am just drawing a blank as to what I can actually do about it now. He did actually do this years and years ago - but I have no idea why it stopped and why it has started again in more recent months. A typical scenario would be thus- enter the room and he is fine. 9am Feed him a tiny amount of (sinking) food and he'll busy himself down at the bottom finding it etc... This will then be followed by surface gulping for hours and hours. This will leave him overly buoyant and although he will never flip over or become completely incapacitated he will struggle to reach the bottom and needs to just stay at the surface. I've experimented with loads and loads of foods over the months. There are definitely some that he will be worse with (not great with Tetra Gold Japan or *any* flake food- and more of it results in more intense gulping) but it does still happen to a lesser degree with frozen bloodworm, fresh veg. (cucumber, peas...). Or even if he has been fasted he will sometimes still do it. His stools are normal and he passes a large amount of air out of his vent- what goes in must come out! With the cooler water oxygen saturation should not be a problem..... there is loads of surface agitation (and a good surface area) to dissuade him from wanting to spend lots of time at the surface- makes no difference. Having a gentle flow, no venturi- makes no difference. All the treatments listed earlier - made no difference at all. Even briefly or temporarily .The tank has a tiny smattering of gravel but is essentially bare bottom with a few flat river rocks. There = generous amount of floating live plants : hornwort and elodea (that went through various chemical treatments- nothing new). I tried lowering the water level temporarily to see if that would help- made no difference. So any practical thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated - however esoteric- because I have reached a cul-de-sac in my mind as to what the issue is. He looks in great health- there are no signs of anything physiological amiss at all. No fin clamping or redness. And behaviourally he never flicks or does anything unusual except for this air gulping.
  6. No way! I have only ever seen Tiku pearlies once, and even then it was only one and I bought him
  7. What about filtration? What's the filter turnover and how often do you clean it?
  8. Here are some good links featuring academic/scientific articles/ information on Melafix. Melafix debate Chem Watch
  9. Just re: Test Kit accuracy... PFK did a number of comparisons with lab results versus different test kits to see which were most accurate. Here is the nitrite one for API Nitrite Test You can find more by going through their articles. Oh and Prime is readily available through ebay too!
  10. In an issue of PFK a number of months back I remember one of the feature writers tested the SafeStart product. It didn't eliminate the cycling process by any means but it shortened it to a week if I remember correctly. I will have to try and dig it out. The product I always see them recommending is Waterlife Bactozym. As great as I think PFK is you do always have to remind yourself that they are in the pockets of these companies. If it doesn't specifically state 'PROMOTIONAL FEATURE' Much of their features and articles are sponsored by Tetra, Aquarian etc... and they heavily rely on these companies for advertising revenue.
  11. To be honest from what I have seen online successful pearly owners are fairly few and far between. (If you consider success beyond a few years).
  12. The main thing is not to panic. When do you think that the prazi will be arriving? It took a week for it to get to me.
  13. Eek Im glad you found which piece of equipment was shorting out. Stray current is definitely not good news for you or the fish. Might be a good idea to ensure all the outlets are fully grounded that way any shorting will trip the circuit and cut the current.
  14. As far as i'm aware Flubenol 15 isn't widely available in the US. I've used flubenol 15 as a treatment for flukes on my goldfish. Several times. It works quite slowly, I don't think the 6-12 hours thing is accurate, whereas prazi works immediately on the adult flukes. It took around 48hours to show signs of improvement with my fish. It says out there that flubenol will destroy even the eggs but again I don't believe that to be true as then one treatment would have been enough but the symptoms of flukes started again after a number of days. The only other thing to say was that the flubenol 15 made my fish lethargic. They weren't themselves. Bottom sitting increased etc... The first time there were other things going on with the tank that might have caused it but the subsequent times they reacted in the exact same way. (And in total I think they were given it 3-4 times.) Normal behaviour resumed when carbon was added and water changes were done. So all in all my experiences with Flubenol 15 weren't wonderful. It did stop fluke symptoms albeit temporarily but also had other less desirable side effects for my fish. I've a packet of it sitting un-used and I daresay I wont be using it again. Not with goldies anyway, I don't know the sort of success people have had with tropicals/discus etc... NB: It will also turn your water v. milky for the first 24-48hours. Doesn't seem particularly soluble as there is white particulate matter that never dissolves and needs removed by syphoning.
  15. Im sorry about Jelly, Erin. With my own fish that had gill flukes the main symptoms was excessive air gulping, mainly after meals and a lot of split fins. When they were quite heavily affected they were lethargic and clamped with a moderate amount of bottom sitting. No flashing or flicking and gill colour was actually healthy. When a fish has flukes and you add prazi you will see a very definite reaction, lots of gill fluffing (like they are 'choking') and the like. For fish that don't have flukes, when I have added prazi there is zero reaction. Good website: http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/disease/flukes.htm
  16. I really dunno either, it seems odd doesn't it? I've actually gone through my bottle pretty quickly you know, I have less than a third left. The prob with gill flukes is catching them before they take hold again , it took me a week before I realised that they would start showing symtoms again three days after a dose so all the subsequent doses meant that it got used up quite rapidly. Thankfully I think, just from reading online that flukes don't seem that common in British fish? I'm not sure why that would be seeing as I imagine we are prob. supplied by the same places that the rest of the world sources their goldies from.
  17. Hmmm.. when did you buy it Yazooo? When I looked on that very website last week out of interest when another member mentioned it, it specifically said that they wouldn't send single bottles of Prazi to the UK and that you would have to buy a pack of 4 x 4oz bottles plus shipping! I've just looked on the site now and it doesn't say that anymore It may be best to email them and check Just a reminder though, that you do run the risk of having products like that brought in from overseas conficasted by customs without warning and losing your money Although, I think it's quite rare I bought it... maybe two months ago? So fairly recently! The way I actually found this retailer was through ebay as she also sells on there. I contacted her asking if she would ship a bottle to the UK and so on and so forth. The legality thing is a PIA. To be honest it was worth the risk in my case. I'd tried loads of meds., spent a fortune trying to get rid of the dreaded gill flukes. Flubenol 15 (twice) Sterazin and Dactymor(which is actually prazi based but has crazy water changing instructions- 75% before treatment, 75% 6 hours after dosing and 50% the next day- no thanks). I really feel like the prazi was a life saver for my guys! If for whatever reason that website doesn't ship single bottles anymore, just search ebay and ask the sellers if they will ship to the UK. At the time, I found like 3 that would and the above was just one that I randomly picked.
  18. I ordered Prazi from... http://www.rockymountainpond.com/ The prazi itself was $12, and shipping was $14. It arrived within a week. Altogether it cost ?12 , which is pretty reasonable I think! Sterazin (thought to be malachite green/formalin) didn't touch my flukes outbreak. Nor did Flubenol 15.
  19. In the sense they both contain antibiotics. But different ones. MediGold: Ormetoprim, Sulfadimethoxine, Kanamycin and Oxolinic Acid Metromeds: Metronidazole, Ormetoprim-sulfa and Oxytetracycline. Instructions with Baktotabs say you should change the water daily, so I would be more inclined to go with the Baktopur direct- and not use it on the main tank but a separate QT so that the filter won't be affected. NB: It takes a while to dissolve and will turn the water luminous yellow. It should also be used in dim light as nifurpirinol is photosensitive. I haven't seen that range before but it sounds uh...useful.
  20. A pH crash would be odd if your kH was substantial and the water well buffered. I'd prob test the tap water again to see that it hasn't changed in anyway. Have you any decor that would lower pH like bogwood? I've used Interpet Anti Internal Bacteria No. 9 and it really had no effect two of my fish suffering from a bacterial infection. Im pretty sure that on the box it says it contains formaldehyde and methanol, which will deplete oxygen from the water. I can't be entirely sure but I think the No. 13 Swimbladder treatment is esentially the same stuff. It says it won't harm the filter and it didn't harm mine but if you go with this product i'd still keep an eye on the params. If you think it is bacterial what you really need is anti-biotics which you can obtain from a vet either in the form of injections (though not all vets are going to be willing to just give you these) or in tablet form that you could mix into your own food. If you need a vet that see's fish you can contact W. H. Wildgoose on 02085393538. Address is 655 High Road, Leyton, London E10 6RA. I don't know if that's anywhere near you but sure it doesn't hurt to know of them. (He is a listed Aquatic Vet in the Practical Fishkeeping Vet directory) Anywho. If a vet transpires not to be an option then for antibiotics the best you can obtain legally is Sera Baktopur Direct or Baktotabs- Medicated Food. Both contain the antibiotic nifurpirinol. It is one of the few antibiotics that is well absorbed through the skin so the drug will get into them even if they are not eating (obv. not the case if you go for the medicated food version) Obviously drawback would be that, as it is an antibiotic it will totally kill your cycle so it would need to be done in a QT. Fish and Fins UK
  21. I share these sentiments in a general capacity as well as within this thread. Everyone should be reminded that when taking advice online you should always research things yourself as thoroughly as possible. Ultimately the fish are your own and any decision you make in treatments are you're responsibility. The internet is so valuable in putting us in touch with people with experience but at the same time it doesn't hurt to be cautious and to take the time to try and filter and evaluate what is being advised.
  22. Those are great pictures. It certainly looks like popeye to me, you can see the build up of fluid. :S One of mine had the same with just the one eye but that progressed to both and then on to dropsy. If he was mine I would treat with antibiotics.
  23. Spitting out food can sometimes be a sign of gill irritation/flukes, i'd suspect something like that if he is now refusing things that he previously ate (ie/peas) Whats the water params like?
  24. I had a similar-ish kind of situation, though the results weren't quite so high as yours an old ammonia test kit nearing the end of it's days gave me false positive's. It was such a relief to see that it wasn't really up at all. In the future I think ill just ditch the bottles when they start running on low. Not exactly on topic but Practical Fishkeeping did lab comparisons on test kits on the market to check their accuracy: Nitrate http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/...p?article_id=96 And pH http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/...?article_id=554 And nitrite http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/...?article_id=116
  • Create New...