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SeanZ123

Hello from Oklahoma

56 posts in this topic

Here go some picture updates!

IMG_0127.jpgIMG_0129.jpgIMG_0130.jpg

Edited by SeanZ123
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Making excellent progress there! :)

You don't ever need to add ammonia remover. Just rely on Prime and water changes to carry you through the cycling process.

From the updated pics, I would say you still have about 2/3 of the gravel to remove. The aim is to have only about a 1/4 inch layer in the tank. Any deeper than that and you risk the possibility of oxygen-starved pockets, which are great places for bad things to live.

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You do not ever need to use an ammonia remover product. The best way to remove ammonia (best for your fish and your cycle) is water changes. As I said before many of those ammonia removers will bind ammonia in a way that your beneficial bacteria can't use it, so you can end up starving your cycle which is bad. If you want a product to detoxify ammonia seachem prime water conditioner is the best. Most here use this as their water conditioner. It will detoxify ammonia for 24-48hrs but binds it in a way that the ammonia is still usable for your cycle :)

Edit: posted at same time as alex

Edited by tithra
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Also I noticed Charles seems to be attracted to the blue filter I wrapped around the intake. Nothing bad seems to happen, I just noticed he loves to "kiss" it.

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Well got the test kit and an air pump to help with oxygen. I figured I should keep a log of the numbers so I dated and wrote them down. Not sure if these even make sense, seems like everything is okay.

Nitrate-0

Nitrite-0

Hardness-250

Chlorine-0

Alkalinity-40

pH-6.6

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IMO and anyone can correct me if I'm wrong...you're gravel should be fine. It will help with the BB's in cycling your tank. water changes should be sufficient. I would however invest in one soon so you can better suck the poo from the top of the gravel. And welcome :hi

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Yeah that's next on my list.

And thanks

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Well got the test kit and an air pump to help with oxygen. I figured I should keep a log of the numbers so I dated and wrote them down. Not sure if these even make sense, seems like everything is okay.

Nitrate-0

Nitrite-0

Hardness-250

Chlorine-0

Alkalinity-40

pH-6.6

6.6 Ph is too low for goldies, you will need to use a buffer to raise this over 7.0, seachem gold buffer is a good one that you can readily find at most stores.

Did your test kit come with an ammonia test? The ammonia is going to be really important to know right now, as ammonia builds up first when you are starting your cycle.

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Okay I'll go look into the Buffer and some other stuff on my next visit. Mine didn't come with an ammonia checker.

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I'm getting the Prime water conditioner today since I'm starting to run short of my other Water conditioner, probably will get the gravel vac also. Also a friend gave me an Aquarium Systems "Twister". He told me he wasn't using it. I tried internet searches but couldn't find anything. Its like 2 super magnetic brushes.

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I would get the ammonia test (get the API drop test kit, it's 10.00) and the buffer before you get anything else if you need to prioritize (that is if you have enough water conditioner to last you awhile longer). Your Ph is borderline dangerous and it is realllly important to know ammonia when you first start a tank :)

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I'm going to get the Buffer, Drop Test kit, and some Prime Water conditioner tomorrow. I noticed when I got home that my fish is occasionally swimming to the surface and maybe taking in a little air. Air pump is working fine but I'm just concerned, the hardness in my water has gone down to 150 but everything else is the same. Hes acting normal and swimming all over the place just goes up every minute or two like if he was chasing bubbles or hoping for more food, and his mouth is more frequently opening and closing.

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Once we get the water quality number we will be able to dial in what is going on :thumb:

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Okay. Is that the Ammonia Drop test kit you're talking about?

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I agree with koko, if you have the funds to buy the full kit that would be ideal as the drop tests are more accurate than the strips you have now and you will get more tests out of it so you save money in the long run. However if money is tight you can just get the single ammonia test and use the strips until you run out, then buy the full kit.

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Okay, they were out of Prime so just got a big bottle of Top Fin Water Conditioner, a Neutral Regulator from Seachem to bring the pH around 7.0, and got the drop kit. Once I go through strips and get paid I shall get the master test kit. Thanks for the help so far and future help. Just did the Ammonia Test and it seems to be at a 1.0 roughly. I haven't done anything yet but wanted to hear your advice.

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The 1.0 reading is quite high for ammonia and potentially dangerous for your fish. You should aim to keep ammonia at 0ppm at all times :) Same goes for nitrites. Nitrates should be kept below 20 ppm.

You will need to do a 100% water change asap (or two 80-90% back to back water changes) to get the ammonia level down in the tank. However, please make sure that the Ph of the water you are adding in is matched within .5 ppm :)

These results indicate that you are still in the initial phase of cycling. I would suggest testing your water on a daily basis to see how many days it takes for your ammonia to rise above 0ppm, then you can figure out how many days you can go between water changes. You likely will have to do a water change daily to every other day, but testing the water is the best way to figure this out.

For the next couple months you will need to keep a very close eye on all your water parameters by testing daily to every other day. It is a good idea to keep a log of your readings so that you can tell how far along in the cycle you are :)

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I've already started a log and I'll do a 80% change tomorrow morning, and the day after that. I should still never use an ammonia remover, correct? really bugs me that the pet store sold it to me my very first day.

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I've already started a log and I'll do a 80% change tomorrow morning, and the day after that. I should still never use an ammonia remover, correct? really bugs me that the pet store sold it to me my very first day.

No, do not use an ammonia remover. The pet store just wants to sell you stuff ;) The best way to control ammonia while cycling is through water changes unfortunately.

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Ok thanks.

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Got another question:

Once I come back from harvest in mid-July from up north, I plan on getting a 40-45 Gallon and getting a 2nd and possibly 3rd friend for charles since this 10 Gallon tank is only temporary. Will I need to cycle that tank as well? I've read using a cycled tanks old filter usually gets rid of the cycling for a new tank. I could be completely mistaken but am quite curious since once I come back Charles will be getting a few friends.

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to become informed.

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Welcome and congrats on Charles. He's a cutie!

If you are planning to upgrade, you might want to check your local Craigslist often. Sometimes there are great deals. :)

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You are correct :) If you move your current cycled filter to the new tank you will have a pretty much instant cycle. I say 'pretty much' because sometimes there can be a small 'bump' so you'll want to check your parameters daily for at least the first week to make sure everything is stable.

When you get your new fish you will need to quarantine them for at least a month before adding them to the main tank. You can use your current tank as the QT, just seed the filter with a bit of media from the main tank to cycle it. We also generally recommend treating with salt and prazipro (you can order this online) during QT. We can advise more on this when you have the new fish in QT :) Just start a thread when the time comes.

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Just wanted to say Hi and Welcome!! You are doing an excellent job caring for Charlie. Keep it up!

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