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Nitrates in tap water too high

266 posts in this topic

Test Results for the Following:

  • * Ammonia Level 0
  • * Nitrite Level 0
  • * Nitrate level 40
  • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.5
  • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
    Other Required Info:
  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API master test kit drops
  • * Water temperature? 23 degrees
  • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 60L, 1.5 years
  • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Eheim 2008 internal sponge filter, size: 30-60l Pump output: 150-300 l/h, also have an air stone
  • * How often do you change the water and how much? once a week, around 50%
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Yesterday, 50%
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 telescope fancy, 2.5 inches (excluding tail)
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? twice a day- one pea plus either sinking pellets, cheese, cooked mussel etc..
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? No
  • * Any medications added to the tank? Not recently
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Have added salt and King British swim bladder treatment a few months ago
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? No
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? See below

For the past 6 months or so he has stayed very close to the bottom of the tank and sometimes doesnt move for long periods, except when he hears movement, voices or it is feeding time. During these times, he swims excitedly along the bottom, often rolling and losing his balance. I expect swim bladder problems but am unsure what else i can do for him. He has also had a cloudy left eye for over a year. His eyes are huge, even for a telescope fish so I was wondering whether his balance is down to poor genetics rather than something I have done?

Also, I was hoping that the regular water changes of 50% would improve the nitrate readings but they are coming out the tap at at least 20-30ppm.

I was thinking of using API nitra-zorb to see if this clears up his problems, also myaybe live plants although I am not sure whether the readings are too high for them to make much difference?

Any advice would be welcome on any of these issues, thank you :)

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Could you get me a Video or photos please?

As for the problem with the nitrates you could add plants to the tank. Also you could try the Nitra-sorb. I have used this with my SW tanks. The only thing with it, you have to keep and eye on it. Know when you put it in and such, reason it will leach back into the tank.

Cheese isnt good for them, it can cause constipation. just like in humans. So if you please stop feeding it :)

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Googs2.jpg

Googs1.jpg

Hope this works- not posted photos on here before.

This is poor Googles. As you can see, he is resting on the bottom as usual and you can see the cloudiness in his eye. I have just bought nitra-zorb and some live plants so I'm hoping this will reduce the nitrates soon and maybe help him feel a little better.

Does anyone have any more advice?

thanks

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Oh and I will def stop feeding him cheese, didn't realise it did that- thank you

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dairy can also make some major nasties in the water, when my daughter was little she tried to "feed the fish" popcorn and milk 1/2 cup of milk...it fouled the tank so bad I had to throw all the rocks and everything out. Everytime I tried to restart the tank even after bleach washing things the water would go white and my black fish developed the white eyes your talking about...looks almost like a cataract??.

I also think the sponge filters dont put out much for current...you may want to check with someone else but his droopy tail. I see that often in fish in smaller tanks with little current that do not swim much. Sort of like if you don't use your muscles you lose them. If a fish does not have to propel its self around much its tail will tuck under and its muscles sort of shrivel up.

But I was a CNA and I look at things in a human aspect sometimes to much =)

Edited by lwebe10
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OK I just re looked over this....

Yup cheese isnt good. :(

your tank is only 15.85 gallons. Way to small really for this fish.

Could you test your tap water for me.?

Also the filtration in this tank isnt really good for a goldfish. You should have a HOB or a canister filter that filters the tank 10 times an hour. Sponge filters are normally for shrimps, bettas and goldfish fry and sometimes very sick goldfish (in a QT). Never for a regular tank filtration. They are hardy enough for the goldfish waste. :(

Ammonia

nitrites

nitrates and the ph.

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and white coloring in eye and swim problems can also be linked to long term exposure to poor water quality I think. I would up your water changes to 2x a week and just make sure to treat your water. With that small of a tank you could get a tub and fill it with water, treat it and test it before even doing your waterchange. Is it possible to upgrade your filtration system? I know some people are on a tight budget these days...You can always look for used ones online but then make sure you sterilize them and get new filters. The previous person maybe selling it because some disease whiped out there fish...you never know

he has beautiful colors!

Edited by lwebe10
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Thank you, he is beautiful isn't he :)

I love him to bits. I wish I was told the correct information by the people in the shop and I could have given him the proper care from the beginning.

I have just tested the tap and tank water again.

TAP:

pH- 7.6 but matches 7.4 on 'high range' test

Amonia- 0

Nitrite- 0

nitrate- 20

TANK

ph- 7.6 (same as above)

Amonia- 0

Nitrite- 0

nitrate- 40

A couple more questions....

when you test the tubes against the white of the colour chart, do you lay it flat against the white or slightly away from it? I find it hard to judge the colour accurately (especially with the nitrates) because it changes depending on how close it is to the white. Does that make sense?

Also, in my first post about Googles back in July 2011, I was told my filtration was excellent :(

Thirdly, i have been looking for new tanks on ebay. What is the minimum tank volume I should have for one fancy?

Thank you very much for all your help

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oh, and I've just checked his size again- he's 2 inches excluding his tail

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the general rule is simply 20 gallons(I have no idea how to convert that to liters) for the first fish 10 gallons for each additional. And 10x the filtration. plus 50% waterchanges once a week atleast is what I always tell people. This is to allow a goldfish to grow to maximium potential and there is alot slower of an impact on waterquality with larger tanks giving you more time between waterchanges for anything to build up icky.

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I think with those adjustments the fish will get better. I dont know why someone would say a sponge filter is good, Im sorry about that. They arent good for goldfish older than a fry. :(

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Hello everyone, I have been posting on here a lot lately so I am sorry to be annoying but I am determined to make Googs better!

I have recently bought him an 80litre (21 gal) tank with a filter in the lid which filters at least 1000lph!

The only prob now is the nitrates in the tap water still. I have planted some amazon swords and java ferns and will try out the nitra-zorb today.

Fingers crossed!!

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Congrats on the new tank! That is awesome! :)

For the nitrates I would also suggest trying a pothos plant with the roots in the tank. These are sold as house plants but the roots can be placed in the water to assist with nitrate reduction. There is an article on the site detailing how to do this but I am on my phone right now and can't link to it. Search pothos and you should get several discussions about it :) the larger tank will also reduce the rate of nitrate build up since you have more water volume to dilute it.

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thanks koko!

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thanks koko!

:thumb:

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Have you ever treated googles for flukes? If not you may want to go ahead and do that. The product you can get for this over in the UK is kusuri flukesolve. :) I am suggesting this because of the bottom sitting you are noticing. Although, the bottom sitting may be related to the swim bladder problems you describe, bottom sitting is also potentially a sign of flukes which are very common in goldies. The flukesolve is a prazi based formula, which is gentle as far as meds go. Treating for flukes is generally considered standard procedure when you get a new fish, so if you have not yet treated for this since you have had googles, I think it would be good to just rule it out as a potential contributing factor to the symptoms you are seeing.

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Thank you Koko, Tithra and Iwebe for all your help :) Googles thanks you as well! :gfish:

I have never treated him for flukes as I didn't realise but I will do so asap. I am going to try and find prazipro online as my local aquarium didn't have any kusuri. In a way, I hope it is flukes because otherwise I don't know what else I can do for him :(

No luck yet in finding a pothos plant yet but will keep trying. In the mean time the nitra-zorb is working well :D

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It looks to be a different brand than the kusuri, but it says it is prazi based so I think that one will be just fine :)

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Hello again =)

I have finally found an affordable Pothos plant. All the ones I have found here in the UK are huge. The one I found was half dead so I got a good discount. I'm going to grow healthy cuttings from it so hopefully it will work on the nitrates asap!

Also, Prazipro arrived today from the US. I didn't trust the brands here and I wanted to get something that had a good reputation with you guys.

I was wondering if someone would kindly lay out a dosage schedule for me based on Google's symptoms as I don't really know what I'm doing and don't want to get it wrong. I am going on holiday from 20-25th of May so something that will work around that would be excellent. I have aquarium salt as well and not sure whether it would be best to use that alongside the prazi (I've not used it yet) My aquarium is approx 22gallons

Thank you guys

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Also, I read somewhere that doing a salt dip first to strip the slime coat is recommended. I'm also a bit unsure of how to do this and worry it will stress him? Especially as his problem is prob due to SB rather than flukes

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You don't really need to do the salt dip, especially if you are unfamiliar with the technique :)

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Glad you got the prazi! :)

Schedule is as follows:

Day 0 - add prazi (add amount stated in directions)

Day 4 - 50% water change

Day 5 - 50% water change, add prazi

Day 9 - 50% water change

Day 10 - 50% water change, add prazi

and so on until you have added prazi 5-6 times.

For the first two rounds of prazi you will want to keep salt at .1% (1 tsp per gallon), remember to replace the amount of salt you took out with each water change.

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Thanks Tithra and Alex :gfish:

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