Calluna

Full Member
  • Content count

    576
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About Calluna

  • Rank
    Level 5
  • Birthday February 10

Previous Fields

  • Gender
    Female
  • Age
    older than young younger than old
  • Location
    USA
  • Referred By
    Google
  • How many Goldfish
    3
  1. My first two fish lived in a bowl for a week before going through many tank upgrades. The oldest lived for 9 years.
  2. Wow, that was stupid of me. Sorry Courtney! I guess I just saw the long post and assumed... and you know what they say about assuming.
  3. The anubias would be best tied to a larger rock or piece of wood. The most important thing is to leave the rhizome (horizontal stem) exposed. CO2 is only necessary in high light, high tech heavily planted tanks... at this point it's not necessary. As for the light... I'm assuming you mean LED right? LEDs are fine for planted tanks and a lot of people use them. Whether they are bright enough really depends on the type of plants, the watts, the par etc. You can just go by trial and error - anubias is very low light and wisteria and low light. I'm not sure what type of sword it is but most are low-medium light. If you really want to get technical with the light you can check out this interesting thread.
  4. WOW Alex that is one long post! haha Ok here's my version stuff you need: -stand for the tank -glass lid + lights or hood -filter -siphon -5 gallon buckets, several for new water and one for old water -or a fancy water change pump thing instead of siphon/buckets, like a python -water test kit... people here like API master test kit, but really any should be fine. Liquid tests may be more accurate/easy to read than test strips. If you're cycling the tank this is more important. -water conditioner for removing chlorine and chloramine, unless you don't have chloramines in your water and want to let it evaporate for at least a day before adding to tank -fish food, unless you make your own... my fish like omega one. Most people here recommend against flakes but my fish are ok with them. -fish net, Other stuff that can be helpful -power strip for all the stuff you'll be plugging in -algae scraper -quarantine/hospital tank or tub, in case you add fish or have sick fish -non iodized salt (some people don't like anti caking agents but I haven't had problems with them), common for treating fish illnesses, and won't kill your filter bacteria. If you don't want the anti caking stuff, canning salt is usually good. -thermometer -heater (for sick fish, too, as room temp will be fine usually). I've heard bad stuff about stealth heaters exploding. -air pump, airline tubing, check valve and airstone or bubble wand -timer to turn on/off the lights ... that's all I can come up with good luck
  5. Yes, but feed it sparingly since it has tons of iodine and goldfish are fresh water.
  6. Gravel works fine! Just make sure it's not really big gravel... mine is about about 1/5 inch. Sand can be a bit of a hassle as you can't vacuum into it, you have to hover the vac over it so as not to pick up sand. It is also more likely to grow anaerobic bacteria which produce toxic gas - to prevent that the sand needs to be stirred occasionally in the first few months of setup. Goldfish may also be rowdy and kick up a lot of sand as they forage, which may clog up the filter intake. I use 2.5 inches of gravel in my tank- about 75 lbs. Some people here are more concerned about having thick gravel, but I've had no problems with it for the last 10 years. Oh and make sure you don't plant the anubias in the gravel - although you can do that (burying the roots and exposing the rhizome), it does better tied to some rocks or wood.
  7. They are common pond snails, and here's a pic of one I caught from a plant: According to this page, they are physa snails and not malaysian trumpet snails, which is melanoides tuberculata. MTS are much more conical in shape, grow larger, and have an opaque rather than translucent shell.
  8. My fancy fish have jumped out of the water, although not out of the tank as there is a cover, thankfully.
  9. Exactly! Unfortunately I don't have a pond but I try to keep my tank as pond like as possible. At least I now have an excuse for why my tank looks like a "lawn of algae!"
  10. So about a month ago I got these two new trapdoor snails... Last week one of them hid behind a plant and didn't move for a few days, and next thing I know there are 5 or 6 baby snails in my tank! They are definitely the offspring of this one because I saw the little tiny trapdoors on their backs. So, for those of you with trapdoor snail experience - are they going to overpopulate my tank? I hope they aren't like pond snails and go from 2 to 200 in a few weeks. I thought one of the perks of trapdoor snails was their slow reproduction... but now I am not so sure. So question two - are they supposed to bury themselves in the gravel? The one that (I'm guessing) had the babies has been acting weird since it gave birth. A few days ago it did that half open trapdoor thing and I thought it was dead, especially when the fish brushed it and the snail didn't retract. The next day though it was eating, and last night it was half buried in the gravel. Today, it's in a different location and half buried face down in the gravel under a plant. Is this normal or is it dying? I just don't want to end up with a rotting snail in my tank...
  11. I feed my fish once a day with omega one flakes or occasionally pellets. I don't give them that much food, just a pinch for all three. Sometimes as a treat I'll give them bloodworms or the vegetables I'm cooking for dinner. Throughout the day they also graze on plants, algae and tiny worms/creatures that live in the gravel. IMO this is the best diet for them - and much of their food comes naturally instead of from flakes or pellets. So far with the way I've fed my goldfish, only a small amount once for twice a day, they've had no digestive, swim bladder, or floating problems. Feeding your fish lots of high protein food many times a day will make them grow much larger, faster, and brighter, but this can also reduce the lifespan of the animal, even if they appear healthy most of the time. Any vegetable should be fine in small amounts. Some people had problems with broccoli causing floating but that hasn't happened to me. Also, there is a concern that spinach could inhibit calcium intake in large quantities, but it also contains calcium so that helps and as long as it's in moderation it should be fine.
  12. A common that isn't dying on the bottom of a 10 gallon with 50+ other dead/diseased feeders.
  13. I'm sure all the bubbles help with aeration because my filter doesn't disturb the water that much since I added a baffle to reduce the current. The air pump broke down (it was a 10 year old pump) so the fish haven't had bubbles in the tank for a few months, but they seem fine. It's been in the mid 90s for a few weeks now and they never gasp at the surface or show signs of distress. In fact, they seem a lot more active than in the winter when it's in the low 60s. That said I do have a lot of plants (and algae, unfortunately) in the tank to oxygenate the water By surface agitation, it doesn't mean the top of the water but the surface of where air and water meet. The surface of a bubble counts. A fine mist of bubbles will be most effective in aerating the water since the smaller the volume of each bubble, the greater the ratio of surface area. The effectiveness of bubbles in diffusing gas is like the alveoli in the lungs- instead of a flat surface, many small "bubbles" are used to increase surface area for gas exchange between the atmosphere and bloodstream.
  14. Mine is similar to the one in the video, but because my filter is too large the bottle that way, it's positioned so that the water flows over the outside of the bottle instead of the inside. I don't have a usable camera now so here's a drawing of it if that helps
  15. I used a "10 gallon" air pump for my 55 for a long time... and it worked fine! I used a tetra whisper pump.