The pH of the tap here seems to change on a daily basis. I am trying to cycle my 50 gallon tank (at my fiance's place, wedding in 1 month) for about 2 weeks with an Aquaclear 110. I have been doing a 50% or more water change every day, but I am getting really frustrating with the ammonia level because it tests at 1ppm out of the tap before I do anything to it. I missed the water change yesterday and today the test results were (API test kit with test tubes and drops): Ammonia 1ppm (yikes!), Nitrite 0, Nitrate 7, pH 8.2. There are 2 little Orandas (~1" without the tail) and a slightly larger Ryukin. I've been using Prime and aquarium salt according the manufacturers instructions. I also added Melafix this evening because one of the Orandas got stuck to the filter intake (didn't think he was going to make it). They've been getting Aqueon slow sinking pellets very sparingly to try to limit the amount of waste produced.
The pH of this tank has been consistantly 8.2. The fish usually hang around the surface and act a bit off just after a water change, then they 're back to normal. We did a 90% water change a couple of hours ago and tested again. I'm starting to ask why I even bother changing their water so much, the results are still Ammonia 1ppm, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 7. But the pH dropped from 8.2 to 7.4!
I'm planning on moving the injured fish to my 20 gallon hospital tank (20 minute drive away) to heal, but what can I do for the other two? Should I move everybody to the 20 gallon for the night and try to mess with the pH in the big one tomorrow? Should I leave them in the 50 gallon and hope they make it? How do I keep the pH from fluctuating so much? I don't have trouble with the pH at my own house bouncing around so much.
Full Version: Ph Crash And An Injured Fish
How much the pH bounces around depends largely on what the kH (total alkalinity) of your source water is. Do you know? It may be that at the new house the kH is very low and in your old home the kH was higher. A high kH will keep the pH stable for much longer and a kH less than around 40 or 50 is going to need constant monitoring to keep it from deadly plunges.
I'm sorry you are having problems. It sounds like you are doing everything right with cycling and just need to get some kind of buffer in the water to stop any more pH fluctuations.
First, I would check the kH from the tap (take some water to your LFS, they will check it for you) and then I would check the tap water daily and see how it compares to the tank water. Tap pH can change from day to day. All this will give you a good idea of how serious the problem potentially is and how much buffering is going to be needed.
Meanwhile get hold of some baking soda as a temporary buffer in case the pH should suddenly plunge any farther.
I'm sorry you are having problems. It sounds like you are doing everything right with cycling and just need to get some kind of buffer in the water to stop any more pH fluctuations.
First, I would check the kH from the tap (take some water to your LFS, they will check it for you) and then I would check the tap water daily and see how it compares to the tank water. Tap pH can change from day to day. All this will give you a good idea of how serious the problem potentially is and how much buffering is going to be needed.
Meanwhile get hold of some baking soda as a temporary buffer in case the pH should suddenly plunge any farther.
How much baking soda would I use? Do I just dump it in the tank?
I'll take a sample of water to the lfs tomorrow and have them test it. My test kit doesn't do alkalinity, unfortunately.
If my tap water alkalinity is really low, what should I use to buffer it on a regular basis, assuming I will be doing large water changes for a while yet?
I'll take a sample of water to the lfs tomorrow and have them test it. My test kit doesn't do alkalinity, unfortunately.
If my tap water alkalinity is really low, what should I use to buffer it on a regular basis, assuming I will be doing large water changes for a while yet?
Pinkspore, I would start with 1 teaspoon, and test the water after 30 minutes to an hour. Keep on putting 1 teaspoon at the time in until you see a rise in the pH. Slower is better here, any major swing in pH can cause stress. Up isn't as bad as down, yet still needs to be done gradually.
As for your ammonia being 1 ppm straight out of the tap, that is a problem. And that is also what your fish react to right after a water change. How do you change the water? Filling the tap water straight into the tank? With ammonia in your tap water, that needs to be out of there before the water enters the tank. Best would be to have a 20-30 gl rubbermaid or new garbage container next to the tank, and filling that up with the tap water, then treating it with your water conditioner/dechlorinator. It'll get the ammonia out of there, and then the water is ammonia free to go into the tank. The container might not look pretty, but you can hide it in a closet when you aren't doing water changes. I have 3 of them that I use, and then I tuck them away.
Oh, and as for buffer for a long term basis - a lot of us have good luck with crushed coral, or a product called "buff it up" from Goldfishconnection.com. Once the product gets the kH up to the level you want, and you know how much you have to put in the tank to keep it there, it is rather simple.
As for your ammonia being 1 ppm straight out of the tap, that is a problem. And that is also what your fish react to right after a water change. How do you change the water? Filling the tap water straight into the tank? With ammonia in your tap water, that needs to be out of there before the water enters the tank. Best would be to have a 20-30 gl rubbermaid or new garbage container next to the tank, and filling that up with the tap water, then treating it with your water conditioner/dechlorinator. It'll get the ammonia out of there, and then the water is ammonia free to go into the tank. The container might not look pretty, but you can hide it in a closet when you aren't doing water changes. I have 3 of them that I use, and then I tuck them away.
Oh, and as for buffer for a long term basis - a lot of us have good luck with crushed coral, or a product called "buff it up" from Goldfishconnection.com. Once the product gets the kH up to the level you want, and you know how much you have to put in the tank to keep it there, it is rather simple.
Where you able to make any progress with your pH, PinkSpore?
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