Hello Pixiefish,

Today I wwent and purchased a tube type water test kit. Looks like I can manage it just fine except one thing, I have no idea what a good, ideal, stress, or danger reading is. Can you post me a chart of safe levels?

Thanks! Luvbender

OK - my connection is a disaster so I'm going to post back later with all the info you need. Have you run tests yet? Please post them if so, while I'm fiddling with my stupid wireless box!

I did an ammonia test it is at 0! YAY! I'd say the Nitrates are at about 7 (the color is in between the 5 and the 10) The Nitrites are at .50. The High Range ph is at 8.0. The ph is 7.8. I'm using the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, it was the best one Petsmart had. Like I said, I only want the best for Booger, I wish I could get a good picture of him and share it with you. It seems you've helped more than anyone to get him as happy as he is!

Thanks! I'll check for your reply in the AM...nighty night.

After the test tubes sat for a minute, they darkened in color. Now the Nitrites are definately 1.0 and the Nitrates are a positive 10. But hey! The Ammonia is still a big fat ZERO...I'm just too happy about that.

I'll get some water ready for the morning and do another water change. I prepare a two gallon jug with 2tsp of API Conditioning salt, and a tbsp of water conditioner. I do it the night before so the water will be the right temp by morning. I've also been using Cycle, once a week. Oh and I use the tap water now as prescribed by Dr Pixiefish.

I become such a dork when it comes to my GF. =)

Hello and excuse the delay - my connection probs should be fixed soon.

Um, if you go to your previous topic you'll see that I've already explained about water chem levels and water changing requirements - My answer is post No.17, so click on the link and scroll down just to refresh details in your mind.

http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/...c=64462&hl=

So, it looks as if you're almost cycled
PH 7.8/8.0 = good (are they results from regular and high range tests, respectively? or from the tap and the tank?)
ammonia 0 = good
NitrAtes = 10 = good
NitrItes =1.0 = not good. Nitrites are dangerous to fish because they bind to the red blood cells and prevent the uptake of oxygen - so this is why salting at this stage is helpful.

Two things to do -
First), a large water change (50% will still leave 0.50ppm, 75%- 0.25, so I'd try almost 100% if poss)
Second) Get to grips with the salt.
The initial stage is to salt for you entire tank volume to a level of 0.1% - this means 1tsp p/gal (predisolved in tank water)
Next, Salt needs to be recorded and controlled to prevent levels escalating, as the only way it can be removed is through water changes. So, if you take out 5 gals then you add 5tsp to the new water going back in to maintain the level. It really helps to write a log of everything you do, how much water changed, when, how much salt etc.

Lastly, I don't seem to have any info on the size of your tank or the turn over of your filtration - can you let us know?
As I said in the previous thread, water changes need to be governed by water levels rather than being fixed at a set amount at a set time. If your tank is 20gals, you need to be changing at least 15 gals to get on top of the nitrite.
I'm a little concerned by your regime of the 2 gal jug - either you are not changing enough water or your tank is very small. So, let us know your tank vol, type of filter and if it's just the one fish or more. OK?

PS Those test tubes need to stand for 5 mins before the results are fully developed. Except PH which is immediate.

Hello Pixiefish,

I did what you told me to today and this is how it turned out. I did about an 80% WC, used salted tap water with the conditioner.

Before 80% WC:

Ammonia .25
NitrAte 5.0
ph 7.6
NitrIte 0.25

Keep in mind that I did a 25% yesterday.

After todays 80% WC:

Ammonia 0
NitrAte 0
ph 7.6
NitrIte 0

Now, as I understand it, some NitrAtes are good? How much?

I took out some of my rock, there was too much in there. I want to save the rock for my new 20 gal, should I keep some old tank water in the container with the rock or let them dry out? Booger has had a milky patch (not ich) on his side, it's not a spot, it's a odd shaped patch...any ideas what it could be?

OK that's good. Nitrates shouldn't rise above 20 but as you're still cycling, your main concern is keeping on top of amm/nit. Did you salt for the whole tank with the water change? If you can get some Prime it will help detoxify the lower levels of amm/nit and make life a little easier
How big is the tank, hun and what about the filter? Let us know. It's important.

As far as the rock is concerned, I would just remove it and let it dry out. There won't be enough beneficial bacteria on it to seed a new tank.
Maybe you could post a picture of your fishes white patch and open a thread about this in the Disease & Diagnosis section?

I'm going to suggest you read the following topics so that you can get to grips with the basics:

http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/tensteps.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/cycle.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/Filtration.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/care.

You'll start to feel much more on top of things if you familiarize yourself with this info.

Thanks Love!

I sent some pics to Koko for the GF of the week contest and asked that she put them on my page??? Not sure if that can be done or not but I asked. I told her I wanted you to see them, let me know if she does.

I have a 10 gallon "Eclipse" tank. It is self contained for the filter, everything is built in. The filter uses charcoal and blue fiber stuff, like matting for a pillow and I have a bio-wheel. I have a small bubble stone too. Not sure how else to tell you about the filter and all...sorry!

My little guy is a baby, he is maybe 2" long at most.

You've been a huge help, I plan to monitor the water everyday for Nitrites and Ammonia, and do my water changes according to the test results...right? Then once my tank is cycled I can monitor it Weekly? Bi-weekly?

Thanks for everything Booger thanks you too!

Once cycled, test weekly.
Does your manual state how many gals the filter turns over per/hour? I suspect it is not enough - for a 10gal you need 100 gal p/hr turn over.
You need to change water every week once it's cycled, although as the tank is small and the filter is most likely underpowered you might be better off making changes twice a week. Watch the nitrate and keep it from rising above 20.