Strips are OK, drop test kits are generally better (more accurate) - but at least you can check your parameters so that's good.
Have you got a reading for
Ammonia? That will be the
most important one since your tank will be cycling now and your fish will be producing ammonia that won't be being broken down by the biological filter yet.
NitrIte reading is fine since your tank has started to recycle since yesterday, you wouldn't usually expect to see a reading yet.
NitrAtes could do with coming down. We usually say to try to keep NitrAtes no more than 40-50 mg/l with goldfish.
I suspected your tank was probably already loaded with NitrAtes as you went from tropicals to goldies and are changing only a thrid per week. Did you do a very large water change before you first introduced your goldies?
Can you test your tap water too? That will tell us whether you have any nitrAtes
already in your tap water (not uncommon and a pain).
Ideally, we aim to keep nitrAtes levels as low as possible(0, but 5-10i s a common running levels and you have to take into account your tank is fully stocked up) to promote optimum fish health in a closed environment. You have some live plants, right? That will help to use up some, but not all.
If I were you I would keep water changing for the next few days to get those NitrAtes right down. That will be a good starting point.
Each time you do a water change the nitrAtes are reduced by that amount (for example if your nitrAtes are 50 mg/l now and you change another 50% now, your nitrAtes will be diluted to 25 mg/l and so on and so on). Therefore, If I were you - I'd change 50% daily for the next few days to get the nitrAtes right down. Also test daily, to ensure you keep the ammonia and nitrItes right down as you pass through the cycling stages.
Your pH is fine for goldies, I make your Gh (water hardness) around 280 mg/l which is moderately hard water and your Kh (buffering capacity to keep pH stable) over 100 mg/l which is good.
Harder water, usually has a corespondingly higher Kh and pH. Your ph is a little lower than I would of thought (double check?) based on the Gh and Kh - but it's stable enough. Can you test your tap water for pH, Gh and Kh too? Write those down - it's good to have a baseline reading for tap water vs tank water.
Hope all that helps! Basically - test the water daily, change enough water to keep ammonia, nitrIte and nitrAtes as low as possible (particularly the first two during cycling), keep an eye that the pH doesn't flutuate and you can't go to far wrong!