I have been using the API Master Test drop kit for testing the last three days. My ammonia level was .25 the first day and .50 yesterday and is still .50 this morning (no water changes). I am not sure I trust these readings. I have followed the instructions of 8 drops out of each bottle and waiting 5 minutes for the test to develop. I decided to try my test strips to compare and it shows my ammonia between 2-3!!!!
My fish are doing well. Actually, they are doing the best they have done since I got them 10 days ago. I was planning to do a large water change tonight after work anyway, but now I am worried I am not getting proper ammonia readings. I do use Amquel 2 at water changes. Could the drop test be reading only the non-binded ammonia?
Also, my strip tests show PH at 6.5 while the drop test shows 7.4. AARRGGHH what do I believe?
Full Version: Test Strips V.s. Drop Tests
Since all tests rely on your particular eyes to define and identify color, the tests are not specifically accurate to the degree that we all wish they were. In drop test kits (the "minis" in general - the ones that record only in "yellow" colors), the accuaracy can only be taken to a single digit (they register total, I think, too). It is not accurate enough to go to even a single decimal. Since you are using the two reagent drop test, yours is a bit more accurate. But, if it is the API two drop ammonia test, then yes, it will be reading on the "free" ammonia only.
Some dip tests do read total ammonia. So it may be that you are seeing total in comparison to free. Free is far more important.
Dip strips are several steps more on the scale of inaccurate..... once again, people tend to try to read more degrees of accuracy into the tests than they can truly indicate. You can usually have a degree of accuracy to a single digit here, but not much more. The same with the 2 drop ammonia tests - a single decimal place may be possible, but nothing beyond.
So: any shade of yellow is generally close enough to zero ammonia. Any shade of pale yellow-green means there is something there. Any time you have any darker green that is specific "green" means that the water needs immediate attention. Any shade of green that appears to have blue in it means your fish are either dead or dying. I do not specifically try to quantify the colors much beyond this. Yellow is zero. Green is 1. GREEN is 2 and above and is a panic situation.
I usually have a chuckle over the majority of the readings that are given as "2.35ppm ammonia" or some such reading. There are cetainly tests and instruments that can read with this accuracy, but they are not cheap or common. The dip test will give you a digit, the drop can give you a decimal.
pH is tougher..... I have never been satisfied with the various pH tests. The best I have found is the cheap phenol red sold for swimming pools. I have gone to a digital meter for my tanks. There are "high" and "low" pH tests - if your pH is between 6.5 ad 7.4 you could have a reading that lands halfway between the two test kits - and it will need a reading from both, that you average to get a reasonable reading. That is a true pain!
If you had 0.25ppm ammonia one day and 0.50 the next, depending on the feeding and fish load, it is entirely possible that you could have 2-3ppm ammonia today. It is also possible that you might still have 0.50. If in doubt, change the water. Take a reading just before a change. Then change out a nice, even percentage of the waer and take a reading immediately after the change. Your reading should go down accordingly. So a reading of 0.50 before.... a 50% water change should yield a reading of 0.25ppm after.....
P.S. if your tank is showing ammonia, be very aware that you should be testing for nitrItes now, too. They are nastier for the fish than the ammonia, and insidiously have a way of creeping up on you when you are concentrating on the ammonia!
Some dip tests do read total ammonia. So it may be that you are seeing total in comparison to free. Free is far more important.
Dip strips are several steps more on the scale of inaccurate..... once again, people tend to try to read more degrees of accuracy into the tests than they can truly indicate. You can usually have a degree of accuracy to a single digit here, but not much more. The same with the 2 drop ammonia tests - a single decimal place may be possible, but nothing beyond.
So: any shade of yellow is generally close enough to zero ammonia. Any shade of pale yellow-green means there is something there. Any time you have any darker green that is specific "green" means that the water needs immediate attention. Any shade of green that appears to have blue in it means your fish are either dead or dying. I do not specifically try to quantify the colors much beyond this. Yellow is zero. Green is 1. GREEN is 2 and above and is a panic situation.
I usually have a chuckle over the majority of the readings that are given as "2.35ppm ammonia" or some such reading. There are cetainly tests and instruments that can read with this accuracy, but they are not cheap or common. The dip test will give you a digit, the drop can give you a decimal.
pH is tougher..... I have never been satisfied with the various pH tests. The best I have found is the cheap phenol red sold for swimming pools. I have gone to a digital meter for my tanks. There are "high" and "low" pH tests - if your pH is between 6.5 ad 7.4 you could have a reading that lands halfway between the two test kits - and it will need a reading from both, that you average to get a reasonable reading. That is a true pain!
If you had 0.25ppm ammonia one day and 0.50 the next, depending on the feeding and fish load, it is entirely possible that you could have 2-3ppm ammonia today. It is also possible that you might still have 0.50. If in doubt, change the water. Take a reading just before a change. Then change out a nice, even percentage of the waer and take a reading immediately after the change. Your reading should go down accordingly. So a reading of 0.50 before.... a 50% water change should yield a reading of 0.25ppm after.....
P.S. if your tank is showing ammonia, be very aware that you should be testing for nitrItes now, too. They are nastier for the fish than the ammonia, and insidiously have a way of creeping up on you when you are concentrating on the ammonia!
Wow, thanks for taking the time to answer my question so thoroughly! I have tested for Nitrites yesterday and did't get a positive so I wasn't going to test today, but I am testing it now. I hope they show up soon to indicate my cycle is underway!
Thanks Again!
Thanks Again!
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