Hi. Could anyone share tips on controling the chlorine level in tap water? I am using Fritz-Guard but even when I overdose it in my tank, the chlorine tester always give me a result of 0.1 ppm, the instructions says that the best level for aquarium is at 0 ppm but I just can't get there.
What I do for water changes is this.
I will pour 2 capful of Fritz-Guard (FG) 1 cap treats 20 gallons, my tank is 18 gals. Check chlorine 2 hours after filling tank results shows 0.1 ppm concentration. Did the same test 1 day later and no change is registered.
Did I do something wrong? Please advise.
Full Version: Procedure For Removing Chlorine
Ive never tested the water for chlorine and I dont think many of us do. As long as you add a dechlorinator or leave the water standing for 12 hours then its all thats necessary.
I take it the fish are fine with that level?
I take it the fish are fine with that level?
Hi Sandy, thanks for taking the time to read and reply. My fish survived 2 years up until now and during the last 2 years, I've never ever once checked chlorine, until my tank cycle crashed and fish suffered a great deal that I decide to check about it. I did a search for Fritz-Zyme #7 and ended up in an independent site that reviewed it and it mentions that any chlorine in the water, as little as 0.1 kills the beneficial bact. So my worry now is on the BB inside the tank.
I think I'm developing a phobia of ph and cycle crash.
I think I'm developing a phobia of ph and cycle crash.
check with your water company and make sure if they use chlorine or chloramine for disinfecting their water. Chlorine is fairly harmless and easy to remove (turning the faucet on to high to produce a lot of bubbles in a bucket is enough to evaporate the chlorine) but chloramine removal is trickier. Adding dechlorinator to it releases toxic ammonia, which is why it also requires ammonia binder at the same time dechlorinator is added.
Hi Man Yu, thanks for reminding me.
Drinking Water in Singapore
PUB's water supply is :
* treated to a quality that is well within the World Health Organisation (WHO) Guidelines for Drinking Water Quality
* disinfected by dosing chlorine during treatment processes. Chlorine is used internationally as a disinfecting agent in drinking water. The residual chlorine present in tap water is in the form of chloramines or free chlorine.
Using Tap Water For Aquarium
* Chlorine Residual level in our treated water is <2ppm and is well within WHO Guideline of 5ppm
* Hobbyists who manage their aquarium system at home need to take extra precaution if they want to use fresh drinking water in their aquariums
* This is because some types of fish may be sensititve to chlorine/choramine present in the drinking water
The Nitrate(as NO3)value of 15 mg/l is well within (WHO) Guidlines for Drinking Water, that is 50 mg/l.
There is Nitrate and Chloramines straight from the tap.
QUOTE
Drinking Water in Singapore
PUB's water supply is :
* treated to a quality that is well within the World Health Organisation (WHO) Guidelines for Drinking Water Quality
* disinfected by dosing chlorine during treatment processes. Chlorine is used internationally as a disinfecting agent in drinking water. The residual chlorine present in tap water is in the form of chloramines or free chlorine.
Using Tap Water For Aquarium
* Chlorine Residual level in our treated water is <2ppm and is well within WHO Guideline of 5ppm
* Hobbyists who manage their aquarium system at home need to take extra precaution if they want to use fresh drinking water in their aquariums
* This is because some types of fish may be sensititve to chlorine/choramine present in the drinking water
The Nitrate(as NO3)value of 15 mg/l is well within (WHO) Guidlines for Drinking Water, that is 50 mg/l.
There is Nitrate and Chloramines straight from the tap.
My newly re-cycle tank is now a Terrorist Tank. It's fishless
Ammonia (NH3) went off the charts, the max color bar is 10.0mg/l, the result color is not even in the charts
Nitrate (N03) at 20 ppm
Nitrite (N02) at < 0.3
I suppose the readings are normal.
And is anybody using API's KH kit? Just want to check if the instructions leaflet contains instructions for testing both GH and KH or just KH alone? I feel that mine may be wrong as the product I bought is just to check KH but the instruction says that this is a GH and KH test kit.
Thanks.
Ammonia (NH3) went off the charts, the max color bar is 10.0mg/l, the result color is not even in the charts
Nitrate (N03) at 20 ppm
Nitrite (N02) at < 0.3
I suppose the readings are normal.
And is anybody using API's KH kit? Just want to check if the instructions leaflet contains instructions for testing both GH and KH or just KH alone? I feel that mine may be wrong as the product I bought is just to check KH but the instruction says that this is a GH and KH test kit.
Thanks.
QUOTE(Triple3 @ Dec 7 2006, 01:48 PM) [snapback]609904[/snapback]
My newly re-cycle tank is now a Terrorist Tank. It's fishless
Ammonia (NH3) went off the charts, the max color bar is 10.0mg/l, the result color is not even in the charts
Nitrate (N03) at 20 ppm
Nitrite (N02) at < 0.3
I suppose the readings are normal.
And is anybody using API's KH kit? Just want to check if the instructions leaflet contains instructions for testing both GH and KH or just KH alone? I feel that mine may be wrong as the product I bought is just to check KH but the instruction says that this is a GH and KH test kit.
Thanks.
Can't edit my post anymore. The Ammonia reading is wrong, I just switched to Prime as a conditioner and it caused my ammonia test kit to give results like over the moon. Changed to API's as recommended in the forum and NH3 is now at 0.25 or 0.50 can't really tell if nitrates is 10 ppm or 20 ppm. Will test again in the morning.
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