I used to put lots of things in my tank water. Then I had some fish die, so I have cut back to just de-chlorinator (Prime or TLC Super Water Conditioner). But my plants are starting to look pekid.

Now, I think the fish died because of high Nitrates but I am very leary of putting things in the tank water.

I have 2 tanks (20, 55) and both are planted. The 20 gal has 2 types of Crypts; the 50 has onions, 20-25 anubias (nana & barteri), 2 or 3 types of Crypts., and Java Fern



Both tanks have Flourite blend as the substrate. The 50 gal tank has 1 96 wtt 10K bulb; the 20 has a 25 wtt :"grow bulb" (not a lot of choice here because of the size of the tank, I think).



What do I need to add for the health of the plants that won't hurt my fish (photobucket\oranda90272)?

Do you use the standard garden N-P-K that is used for soil based plants?

Do I need to add Iron with the Flourite substrate?



And you will note the photos show algae on the plants: Is there anything I can do (again without hurting the fish) beyond the UV filter I have that will cut down on the algae on the leaves?



20 gal plants: new grow very pale





50 gal: Java Fern and Anubias mounted on piece of wood





Crypts and Onions







I have used previously and have some left:

• AP Plantabbs, Tetra Hilena Crypto
• Natural Aquarium Vital Carbonator, a CO2 injector
• Seachem Flourish Iron, Flourish water conditioner, Flourish Excel Carbon

Pale leaves usually indicate a nutrient deficiency, most likely iron. I would suggest using the Flourish with Iron that you have to see if that helps. If it is used according to directions, it won't harm your fish. Also adding a CO2 generator can help reduce the algae. With CO2, your regular plants will grow more vigorously, using the nutrients that would otherwise feed the algae. I would definately suggest CO2 for your 50 gallon. For NPK, you can use palm and fern fertilizer spikes, or if those are not available, regular houseplant spikes will work. Be sure to push them into the substrate well at the base of the plants and to be careful when you gravel-vac, otherwise you could get an algae bloom.
Is the bulb you have on the 20 gallon an incadescent, fluorescent, or some other type? The reason I ask is that I was not aware of a 25 watt fluorescent that would fit in a hood for a 20 gallon tank.

Thanks.

I will add the Flourish Iron tomorrow am.

Re: CO2: I was afraid to use it, I have had it for years. Did I read you should turn off the air pump when adding CO2? How much CO2 over what time?

The Plantabbs are flat pill shaped, will they work; they are NPK?

Re: lightr for 20 gal tank: mia culpa; the light is an 18" Power Glo 15 wtt. It was the only grow light I could find. Do you know of any other 18" bulbs?

It is best to turn off the airstone when you have CO2. As long as your regular filter has adequate filtration and the output (or bottom edge of a HOB filter) is below the water line, then you will be ok. The CO2 system I use on my 10 gallon tropical is a Hagen Natural CO2 system. It uses a yeast/sugar mixture to make CO2 and can handle up to 20 gallons. You could use 2 of the canisters on your 55. The bubble rate you would want is about 1 bubble every minute to minute and a half.
Plantabbs would be a good source of NPK. Their website does mention they are slightly acidic, but if your KH buffering is good, then that shouldn't be a problem. Also the CO2 can make the water acidic if you have low buffering capacity. If you have low KH, you can use a neutral regulator to bring up your buffering capacity.
The light you have on both tanks will be fine for the type of plants you have.

Thanks the little Hagen unit is not too pricey and I will try it.

I used to use Seachem's Gold Buffer. Then when I reduced my additives I stopped using it as well.

I can test the pH and see how it goes.

What do you think about Seachem's Gold Salts in relation to plants?

I'm afraid I am not familiar with that product. I've never seen it at my LFS. When I did a google search, it seems to be similar to epsom salt.