The danios will produce a certain amount of waste. It is almost guaranteed that the new goldies will produce far more waste than the danios did. So when you first put your goldies in the cycled tank, you will almost certainly see a bump in your cycle. The tank that was so balanced before will have a bump in ammonia and possible nitrites - or nitrites and no ammonia, or both. This should last only for a few days, though. Changing out as much water as necessary each day to keep the ammonia/nitrites below 0.50ppm will protect your fish while the cycle rebounds. It should in a matter of days. I have had a few tanks that squnch around with a trace of nitrite for a week or two - but careful management works and it soon disappears.
If you have the ability to get your goldfish one at a time, you can put in just one, let the cycle grow to it, then put in the next. But if you do that, you should quarantine the second from the first - a big problem. So, in your case, if you get your goldies from a mail order source, they can both be quarantined in the same tank.
Did you have parasites on the danios? Did you treat the parasites? What did you have and how did you deal with them? A great number of parasites cannot live without a fish host. So in a tank with no fish, there are no parasites after a short time. If you have clear ammonia available, you can remove the danios and just keep the tank cycled with a little bit of ammonia for a week or so. This will preserve the cycle, but will starve out a lot of parasites. You could even put in a bit of ammonia - just until you get a little reading still on ammonia 12 hours later. When you see this amount go to zero at 12 hour mark, add just a bit more each day. This will build your bacteria population in anticipation to the goldfish load that is coming.
When I get a new fish, I put it in the iso tank. The tank is then raised to 0.1% salt (1 T per 5 gallons), 12 hours later, it is raised to 0.2% salt (2 T per 5 gallons) and then 12 hours later it is raised to 0.3% salt (3 T per 5 gallons). This level of salt is maintained for at least 2 weeks. I generally will isolate and/or keep a fish in the salt until at least 2 weeks has past since any problems were noted. If you find a problem, resolve it and then make the 2 weeks following the qt time.
If I am getting a fish from a local source and the fish is strong and has not been stressed by shipping, etc., I will often salt dip it before placing it in the iso tank. This will strip the slime coat, shedding a large number of parasites that may be present. IF a fish has been shipped, though, it is often highly stressed and may have had a "calming agent" added to the shipping water. It is best to let a fish such as this rest, come out of the sedation of the calming meds and recouperate before salt dipping. On occasion, I have set out a very large tub of water that is clean, clear and fresh - 50 gallons or so - with just good aeration. The new fish will go in that tub for about 6 hours to recover from the sedation and stress of the trip. It is then salt dipped and placed in the iso tank.
Do not medicate with any medicated food, antibiotics or other treatments unless you see a reason for doing so. To medicate with out specific reasons has the potential to create "super bugs" - bacteria or parastites that are resistant to the drugs and treatments we have. Salt is a solid, time-honored treatment. Start with that and go to the next step only if necessary.
Feed lightly for the first few days - this will keep the waste level down - less waste means less ammonia/nitrite/nitrate. Slowing increase the food as you see your cycle respond and process the excess waste.
A UV is a wonderful thing for all tanks. I love them. They do not take care of parasites and bacteria in the gravel or on the fish, but they take care of most or all of things that are free floating in the water. By and large, the majority of bacteria and parasites have to cross through the water to travel from fish to fish. A UV will kill them in this mode. With a good UV, you prevent cross contamination between fish even in the same tank. Ich, flukes and many other parasites have a life stage where they are free swimming - and the UV will kill them at this stage. A UV can prevent a lot of problems, solve numbers of problems, and make treatment of most other problems far more effective, short, and through.
You are almost ready for your goldies, huh? Whooopeee!!!!