Hi guys,
I'm cycling my tank with goldfish right now (unfortunately two died and I have one left in a 15 gallon tank). The tank was setup without any fish with the filter running for almost a week.
All fish seemed fine for 2 weeks then the two died pretty quickly.
I am changing about a gallon of water everyday sometimes twice depending on if the levels get high.
My question is. How do you prepare the water?
I live in a city (albany, NY). And I know they use chlorine and god knows what else.
What I used to do is let the water age 24 hours in an open bucket before I put it in..but lately I've bene letting it sit for 24 hours and then adding a tiny bit of the water conditioner.
My question is: If I need to change the water quickly. Can I let the water sit for say 10 mins and then add a little dechlorinator and it should be fine for the fish?
The stuff I use is Aqua Plus Tap Water Conditioner. for fresh or salt water. It says it's patented stress reducing formula. It says it removes chlorine and chloramine and neutralizes heavy metals. It also says it coats to protect and heal.
Also I'm thinking of either adding salt to the tank to help this guy (I have another post on it in this forum) or doing a salt dip.
Does this conditioner stuff affect the salt or mix and cause problems for my fishie?
EDIT: I forgot to add that the instructions say to add one capful for every 10 gallons. So I do a capful and a half for my 15 gallon tank. But when i remove some water and add a bucket again I add a tiny bit more again. Is this ok?
Full Version: Water Preparation
I personally would tell you to try Prime.It may seem a bit costly,but it lasts a very long time.You definately get your money's worth. :)You don't have to let water sit at all when you're using Prime. Not only does it condition your water for your fish,it also helps to detoxify Ammonia/Nitrites/Nitrates,which is great especially when you are cycling.
Cycling with fish is very hard on them-especially when you put in multiple fish.It just adds too much ammonia/waste and such before your tank/filter's are ready to handle it all.
You can add 0.1% salt to your tank when your params start showing the Nitrites,salt should help the stress of that for him. I'd forget the salt dip though.
Have you checked this out?http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/cycle.html
This will give you an idea of how much water you should be changing out,and how high the readings can get,etc...I personally change out enough water that my param levels don't get get that high,but that's me.
I think those levels are a bit high when you have live fish cycling so I do bigger water changes to keep them alot lower as to not harm the fish.It may take the cycle a bit longer,but I feel better. 
Cycling with fish is very hard on them-especially when you put in multiple fish.It just adds too much ammonia/waste and such before your tank/filter's are ready to handle it all.
You can add 0.1% salt to your tank when your params start showing the Nitrites,salt should help the stress of that for him. I'd forget the salt dip though.
Have you checked this out?http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/cycle.html
This will give you an idea of how much water you should be changing out,and how high the readings can get,etc...I personally change out enough water that my param levels don't get get that high,but that's me.
I think those levels are a bit high when you have live fish cycling so I do bigger water changes to keep them alot lower as to not harm the fish.It may take the cycle a bit longer,but I feel better.
I agree. salt dips are really for very sick fish and they are so stressful for the fish! Prime is great but you can age the water as you've done too. Personally I always try to age the water rather than add liquids and potions- I've buckets sitting out all over...near the tank they're going in so they're the same temp.
You need to add the de-chlorinator or Prime to any un-aged water that goes in- according to instructions as to how much.
Funny how fish often die after 2 weeks it seems to be when the nitrites set in - that's the moment when you can add the .1% salt dissolved first to the tank. You can use salt safely with the water conditioner.
You need to add the de-chlorinator or Prime to any un-aged water that goes in- according to instructions as to how much.
Funny how fish often die after 2 weeks it seems to be when the nitrites set in - that's the moment when you can add the .1% salt dissolved first to the tank. You can use salt safely with the water conditioner.
I really hope this fish makes it, as he is my favorite one.
I just changed another bucket of water this morning and added a tiny bit of dechlrinator to it (as it only aged about 14 hours).
How long is a good time to age water naturally? I plan on doing this once the tank cycle is complete.
I just changed another bucket of water this morning and added a tiny bit of dechlrinator to it (as it only aged about 14 hours).
How long is a good time to age water naturally? I plan on doing this once the tank cycle is complete.
QUOTE(Trinket @ Jul 3 2006, 10:13 AM) [snapback]542741[/snapback]
I agree. salt dips are really for very sick fish and they are so stressful for the fish! Prime is great but you can age the water as you've done too. Personally I always try to age the water rather than add liquids and potions- I've buckets sitting out all over...near the tank they're going in so they're the same temp.
You need to add the de-chlorinator or Prime to any un-aged water that goes in- according to instructions as to how much.
Funny how fish often die after 2 weeks it seems to be when the nitrites set in - that's the moment when you can add the .1% salt dissolved first to the tank. You can use salt safely with the water conditioner.
There is nothing wrong with still aging the water if you want to. I used to do that too,before I had 15 tanks to change out.When I keep Betta's,I still let the water age overnight. I answered that way because Kevin asked what to do if he needed to change the water fast. And personally,I don't consider Prime in the" liquids and potions category",as it really does aid in keeping your fish alive during those crazy param times when cycling a tank. 
If you have chloramine in your tap letting it sit out wont remove that so you will still need to add a de-chlorinator. I also use Prime and I love it, the smell is kinda gross but all the stuff that Prime does makes up for it.
Sorry- I didn't mean to berate Prime. I have heard nothing but good things about Prime. I wanted to assure Kevin that its okay to age water that's all, I put it too strongly.
I think you can age the water in 24 hours. I usually leave it for 3 days (between water changes). But as
silver points out you should check your tap water to know what you're source water contains (and that can change too).
I hope you're fish is doing okay
I think you can age the water in 24 hours. I usually leave it for 3 days (between water changes). But as
silver points out you should check your tap water to know what you're source water contains (and that can change too).
I hope you're fish is doing okay
Aging the water will work. It will work faster the more surface area you have, or if you drop an air stone into the bucket. This will "age" the water overnight in most containers.
Instant water conditioning can be accomplished by using one of many types of water conditioners. They are all wonderful products. They are not majoc potions or chemicals that you need to be cautioned with. Most are designed to bind or change chlorine, chloramines, etc. in the water. Ones such as Prime have the added affect of binding and detoxifying ammonia and nitrite, and, to a degree, nitrate. They do this through a chemical reaction, yes, but it is not anything mysterious or dangerous. It is simple rearrangement and recombinations of various molecules in a substance. They work instantly (seconds) and very well.
For cheap conditioning, yes, aging can work well. You can also get a good, generic water conditioner - one that binds the chlorine, etc. Or you can go one step up to Prime or Amquel+ and the ilk. These will actually help tremendously when a tank is cycling. They will bind the excess ammonia and/or nitrite from the tank. They do not remove the ammonia or nitrite, but, instead, combine it into a different molecule so that it is not toxic to the fish, but still available for the beneficial bacteria in the developing cycle to use. With large water changes and the addition of Prime at the end of each, your cycling tank's water can remain almost toxin free between water changes - all without any harm to the developing cycle. If you need to cycle with a fish in the tank, it is an invaluable aid.
You cannot overdose very easily with Prime - or other conditioners, particularly. In the case of Prime, the "active" ingredients that are not used to bind chloramines, chlorine, heavy metals, ammonia, nitrite, etc. simply remain, inactive in the water until needed. So, when you do a water change, add it as closely as possible to the amount that you replace, but exact measurements are not necessary.
With a test, you will be able to know exactly how much water you need to change each day to keep the water parameters in good enough range that you will not harm your fish during a cycle. In many tanks, I find I have to change 50-75% of the water daily to get the ammonia/nitrite below 0.5ppm. Then I add Prime, which will bind a fair amount of the new ammonia/nitrite that is added by the fish during the 24 hours before the next water change.
Salt, in the concentration of 0.1% is a standard treatment to help a fish cope with nitrites in a cycling tank. It helps protect the gill function. To get a 0.1% salinity, the easiest way is to measure 1 level Tablespoon of large grained aquarium salt for every 5 gallons of water. For a 15 gallon tank, you would put in 3 level Tablespoons of large grained aquarium salt, dissolved and poured into the tank, not the filter and not over the fish. When you change the water, you do need to know how much water you took out so you know how much to treat going back in. I like to do it in increments of 5 gallons - the easiest thing. Take out 10 gallons and treat with 2 TAblespoons of salt ,a nd a capful of Prime to the replacement water. Your tank is good to go for 24 hours or so.
Prime does smell quite skunky from the bottle, but the smell is normal and dissapates quickly after it is added to the tank.
The big thing - do not be afraid to really CHANGE out the water. The fish will be the better for it, the cycle will continue to develop and all will be much much better (except for perhaps your sore arms and back!)
Instant water conditioning can be accomplished by using one of many types of water conditioners. They are all wonderful products. They are not majoc potions or chemicals that you need to be cautioned with. Most are designed to bind or change chlorine, chloramines, etc. in the water. Ones such as Prime have the added affect of binding and detoxifying ammonia and nitrite, and, to a degree, nitrate. They do this through a chemical reaction, yes, but it is not anything mysterious or dangerous. It is simple rearrangement and recombinations of various molecules in a substance. They work instantly (seconds) and very well.
For cheap conditioning, yes, aging can work well. You can also get a good, generic water conditioner - one that binds the chlorine, etc. Or you can go one step up to Prime or Amquel+ and the ilk. These will actually help tremendously when a tank is cycling. They will bind the excess ammonia and/or nitrite from the tank. They do not remove the ammonia or nitrite, but, instead, combine it into a different molecule so that it is not toxic to the fish, but still available for the beneficial bacteria in the developing cycle to use. With large water changes and the addition of Prime at the end of each, your cycling tank's water can remain almost toxin free between water changes - all without any harm to the developing cycle. If you need to cycle with a fish in the tank, it is an invaluable aid.
You cannot overdose very easily with Prime - or other conditioners, particularly. In the case of Prime, the "active" ingredients that are not used to bind chloramines, chlorine, heavy metals, ammonia, nitrite, etc. simply remain, inactive in the water until needed. So, when you do a water change, add it as closely as possible to the amount that you replace, but exact measurements are not necessary.
With a test, you will be able to know exactly how much water you need to change each day to keep the water parameters in good enough range that you will not harm your fish during a cycle. In many tanks, I find I have to change 50-75% of the water daily to get the ammonia/nitrite below 0.5ppm. Then I add Prime, which will bind a fair amount of the new ammonia/nitrite that is added by the fish during the 24 hours before the next water change.
Salt, in the concentration of 0.1% is a standard treatment to help a fish cope with nitrites in a cycling tank. It helps protect the gill function. To get a 0.1% salinity, the easiest way is to measure 1 level Tablespoon of large grained aquarium salt for every 5 gallons of water. For a 15 gallon tank, you would put in 3 level Tablespoons of large grained aquarium salt, dissolved and poured into the tank, not the filter and not over the fish. When you change the water, you do need to know how much water you took out so you know how much to treat going back in. I like to do it in increments of 5 gallons - the easiest thing. Take out 10 gallons and treat with 2 TAblespoons of salt ,a nd a capful of Prime to the replacement water. Your tank is good to go for 24 hours or so.
Prime does smell quite skunky from the bottle, but the smell is normal and dissapates quickly after it is added to the tank.
The big thing - do not be afraid to really CHANGE out the water. The fish will be the better for it, the cycle will continue to develop and all will be much much better (except for perhaps your sore arms and back!)
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