Test Results for the Following:
Ammonia Level? 0
Nitrite Level? 0
Nitrate level? Unknown [can't find the kit]
Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines)? 7.0
Ph Level out of the Tap? Not sure
Tank size (How many Gals) and How long has it been running? 46g, 3 months at new home; 4 years total
What is the name and size of the filter/s? 2 AquaClear 200s
How often do you change the water and how much? 2xs weekly; 25%
How many fish in the tank and their size? Too many; 5 medium, 3 small
What kind of water additives or conditioners? Can't remember
Any medications added to the tank? Yes; Binox - Jungle Labs [active ingredients: sodium chloride and nitrafurazone]
Add any new fish to the tank? Yes
What do you feed your fish? Hikari Gold, supplemented with krill, bloodworms, and shrimp
Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt" bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? - - I have both ich parasites and the "body fungus", along with a small case of finnage tearing on some fish.
Any unusual behavior like staying
at the bottom, not eating, ect..? - They are eating fine, though stressed. I have noted lethargy in 2 individuals.



My main concern is which condition I need to prioritize. I have already added medication for the body fungus [which became very advanced in a matter of days]. The reason for the overcrowded tank right now is because of a minor mishap - my pond was supposed to be finished over one weekend, and it didn't get finished, so I didn't have the extra tank I thought I was going to! I know Jungle products can be used in conjunction with one another, but I didn't want to nuke the tank with two meds at the same time. The fish are stressed enough.

Raivynn, it's a hard call on which to treat first but I think that fungus is an opportunist that takes advantage of an already stressed or sick fish. In extreme cases it can be fatal but it is not generally a fast progressing condition.

Ich on the other hand can get out of control very quickly and be fatal very quickly so I would treat the ich first. Once that is over the fish will be in a better condition to deal with any fungal attacks.

Also, are you sure it is fungus and not a bacterial attack of columnaris or cotton wool disease? The two conditions are easily confused. Your best bet would be to search for some pics and see which most matches your fish.

A simple way of telling the difference is that columnaris is usually very tufty and raised (like cotton wool), it can appear to have strings of fluff waving around, it sometimes turns brown. A fungal growth is usually flatter and smoother, it may be raised but not so tufty looking.

Whichever it is, I think it's best to treat the ich first.

IF it does turn out to be columnaris, the salt will treat it at the same time as the ich - since they are both susceptiable to salt.....

From what I've been told, the body "fungus" [columnaris] is the one that is flatter. I have dealt with both of these issues before, and I'm not exactly concerned. There are more ich spots showing up on the fish, so I may go ahead and dose with IckGuardII [for weak or scaleless fishes] along with the Binox.

The ich I think was using opportunity. My tank's temp has been fluctuating quite a bit -- the temps here in the daytime are around 70+*F, and at night it has dropped to around freezing. I do not heat or cool my home at this time, and I do not use heaters in my goldie tank. So, the water temp is at the mercy of the weather unfortunately. The columnaris [or body fungus] is something my black moors are extremely susceptible to - or maybe I just notice it more on them because they are black.

I do have some Maroxy on hand in case it is a true fungal infection. My fish are going to be so upset with me. First I take away all their ornaments to treat the tank, I medicate them, and now I have to medicate them some more. I'm glad my fish <3 me.


Rai

Ok, good luck with the ich. I'm sure you fish will forgive you for all their inconvenience.

Oh yes, the fish were quite grumpy this morning. I hadn't fed them as much as usual with the medication in the tank. I don't want to go having an ammonia spike in the middle of all of this.

I did dose the tank with IckGuardII, which I had on hand. I have noticed *some* of the white film dissipating, and the white edges on my orange fantail's tail fin are also disappearing.

If all doesn't go as planned, once the ich disappears I'll change the water and remove the meds, wait 48hrs, then try the Maroxy I also have on hand.


Rai