Full Version: How Can I Remove Eggs ?
I am new to this site as I have come across it looking for info. I just got fish for the first time - a calico and a black moor. To my surprise, I discovered eggs in my tank this morning! My question is - If I plan to breed them, how am I to remove them, as they are all over the gravel on one side of the tank. Also, both fish seem to have really settled down and most of the time just remain in one place at the bottom of the tank and only come up when I feed them. Is this normal? Any and all suggestions and advice is welcome as I am new to this! Thanks!!
Hi there babybell01 and 
I honestly don't know how to remove them from the walls and gravel. I gently pulled some eggs off the wall of my tank but they didn't survive. If they lay eggs on plants, it's much easier to remove the leaves and place into a small cycled tank and wait for them to hatch.
No sure if this was much help
I honestly don't know how to remove them from the walls and gravel. I gently pulled some eggs off the wall of my tank but they didn't survive. If they lay eggs on plants, it's much easier to remove the leaves and place into a small cycled tank and wait for them to hatch.
No sure if this was much help
babybell01,
Is you tank brand new? How long has it been running and do you believe it's fully cycled? To help you better with your fish sitting on the bottom question could you answer a few questions for us. (questions from the diagnosis section). Then we can come up with some answers for you.
Test Results for the Following:
Ammonia Level?
Nitrite Level?
Nitrate level?
Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines)?
Ph Level out of the Tap?
Tank size (How many Gals) and How long has it been running?
What is the name and size of the filter/s?
How often do you change the water and how much?
How many fish in the tank and their size?
What kind of water additives or conditioners?
Any medications added to the tank?
Add any new fish to the tank?
What do you feed your fish?
Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt",
bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?
Any unusual behavior like staying
at the bottom, not eating, ect..?
As far as your 'removing the eggs' question. I personally don't. It's too hard, they are sticky buggers and you can cause damage to the good eggs. I wait until they hatch and separate the baby's into a breeding cage once hatched. I have removed eggs with a dropper or turkey baser before but I think I injured many of the fertilzed eggs doing this as they were crammed together. Once they are hatched, I remove the white unfertilized eggs. If the eggs turn white after about 24 hours that means they aren't fertilized. If fertilized they become pale amber to yellow in colour. Here is a link to the FAQ section of KOKO's website where you'll find the basics on what you should do for breeding.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/faq.html
Is you tank brand new? How long has it been running and do you believe it's fully cycled? To help you better with your fish sitting on the bottom question could you answer a few questions for us. (questions from the diagnosis section). Then we can come up with some answers for you.
Test Results for the Following:
Ammonia Level?
Nitrite Level?
Nitrate level?
Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines)?
Ph Level out of the Tap?
Tank size (How many Gals) and How long has it been running?
What is the name and size of the filter/s?
How often do you change the water and how much?
How many fish in the tank and their size?
What kind of water additives or conditioners?
Any medications added to the tank?
Add any new fish to the tank?
What do you feed your fish?
Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt",
bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?
Any unusual behavior like staying
at the bottom, not eating, ect..?
As far as your 'removing the eggs' question. I personally don't. It's too hard, they are sticky buggers and you can cause damage to the good eggs. I wait until they hatch and separate the baby's into a breeding cage once hatched. I have removed eggs with a dropper or turkey baser before but I think I injured many of the fertilzed eggs doing this as they were crammed together. Once they are hatched, I remove the white unfertilized eggs. If the eggs turn white after about 24 hours that means they aren't fertilized. If fertilized they become pale amber to yellow in colour. Here is a link to the FAQ section of KOKO's website where you'll find the basics on what you should do for breeding.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/faq.html
Thanks for replying! Well, Let me start from the beginning: I purchased a 10 gallon tank last week (I know I need a bigger one and we are planning to get one so they don't outgrow the tank). I originally got the black moor and another regular goldfish. I set up the tank, conditioned it, and ran it for a good 4 days before adding the fish. I have a whisper motor filter system that was included with the tank. The fish were fine for the fist day and 1/2. Then the back moor was aggressively chasing and nipping at the goldfish, so much so that the goldfish tried hiding from him but it kept finding him. The goldfish then would not eat for 2 days. I removed it from the tank to separate them but it still would not eat or swim. It died that evening. We thought we just had a mean fish so we bought the Calico because it was the same size and as soon as we put it in the moor attacked it, too. I noticed though that the calico was kind of fighting back so I let them stay together for the day. After about a day and a half, I saw the eggs and at first didn't know that's what they were. I called the pet store and she said they were probably eggs and said they might hatch. She didn't offer any other info on what to do and that's when I found this site. The fish are now getting along, but they just sit at the bottom of the tank in the same places and only come up when I feed them. The Calico takes the food but spits it back out over and over again. I feed them tetrafin goldfish flakes. The water is clear and the filter is running effeciently. It's been a week and a half now, should I change the water? Also, the eggs on the gravel are fuzzy, which I 've read indicates mold. Should these be removed somehow? Will it harm the fish? I found 2 eggs on a plant that are clear with black inside. Are they worth removing and trying to hatch? My black moor has white spots all over, I should buy some medication as this may be caused from stress, right? Sorry so much info but I figured I should probaby give as much as I can if it will help. I was told I didn't need a heater, but what do you think? Thanks for any help!!
the white spots on his gill covers are what we call " breeding stars" they are what males get when they are ready to breed. so theres no need for treatment.
If the fish eggs are dead, and there are no fertalised eggs left. then i recomend you do a water change. also perhaps vacume the gravel, to get rid of the eggs and the mess on the gravel. as the eggs left in the tank will polute your water and your fish may die from it.
Do regular water changes of 10% once a week. and you should be fine.
I hope that helps. if there is any thing else that we can do to help you. then please let us know.,
Thank you
Lee
If the fish eggs are dead, and there are no fertalised eggs left. then i recomend you do a water change. also perhaps vacume the gravel, to get rid of the eggs and the mess on the gravel. as the eggs left in the tank will polute your water and your fish may die from it.
Do regular water changes of 10% once a week. and you should be fine.
I hope that helps. if there is any thing else that we can do to help you. then please let us know.,
Thank you
Lee
Your fish 'fighting' sounds typical of a breeding dance. The fish usually chase each other, nudge each other's butts. Some fish end up with some serious fin damage from it. Sounds like that's what was happening considering the egg outcome.
First off.... you've got yourself a new tank that isn't Cycled yet. If you wish to better understand that process you can read that here. But you need to get test kits to check your water quality. With these results, the people here can helpyou a lot more with your problem. If possible you should get some form of testing supplies.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/cycle.html
It will take a month give or take to complete this process. During this process you are going to see high levels of Ammonia, Nitrates, and Nitrites. Dangerous to the fish if you don't do your water changes. Especially during this time. So you need to do weekly water changes Now and forever. But please take a moment to read about the Cycling of your tank. It's one of the most important things to know when you are starting out, as well as water changes. Otherwise the fish will poison itself in the water and die.
I would assume because your tank is a week old....that your ammonia levels could and are probably a bit high so you need to do a water change now. This could be a reason why your fish are hanging around the bottom as well. Never completely remove all the water. a 10-20% water change as Lee has mentioned is your proper way. Make sure you condition thenew tap water before you add it to the tank.
Next I'd like to address the "white spots" all over. Does it look like Salt all over your fish? Because if it does you need to treat them for ICK. Ick is the most common disease you'll find in a goldfish tank. If you have ICK in your tank... that would be the answer to why they are sitting at the bottom in my opinion. Ick is a parasite that attaches to a fish when it's stressed out. After a couple days it falls to the gravel and starts to lay eggs and in turn reproducing itself at a very fast rate. It can and will kill your fish if not treated. I find that fish tend to hide, look stressed out... end up with torn fins, act lazy, and it's back fin will be down flat on it's back when Ick starts. You first notice the fish acting a bit off... then you see the salt looking like spots all over their bodies. Here's a photo from KOKO's informative site.
ICK can be treated easily. Either treat with salt at a .3% solution OR with medications containing Malachite Green, Formalin or Copper. You can find medication for ICK at any pet store that sells fish. There are many types/brands. Just get some fast and follow the directions on the bottle carefully. I use RID ICK personally. But there are lots available. Here's a link to more information on how to treat ICK. It's a link to the disease section of this message board where members have provided some in depth information.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/...showtopic=12599
If it's breeding stars... most likely it will be larger white spots on the gill plates of your fish. But not covering your fish like you described. You may also notice your fish will have turbucles on it's front fins.... Here's a picture of my Blue Oranda with Breeding stars. His are quite large, while other fish may have tiny dots their gill plates. But if you say the spots are "all over" I'm not suspecting breeding stars
Lastely... your eggs in the gravel are not fertilzed and need to be removed . I would use a turkey baser if you don't have a syphon to remove them. They will go moldy in the tank and that will cause water quality problems for you for sure. Then eggs on the plant sound like they are fertilized. But my big question for you is "do you have the room for more fish". In a 10 gallon... no you don't as you are already overstocked. You have to really think about how much room you have and your means to care for them (if they survive). Just some things to think about. You can take a look at the breeding section here at KOKO's for more information.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/breeding.html
All white coloured eggs are not fertilized, any amber/yellow eggs are. If you have yellowish / clear eggs with black dots in them... most likely they are going to hatch.
As far as needing a heater in general for your goldfish tank.... some people do and some people don't. I personally don't but my tank is at about 68-70*F depending on the temperature of my house. Some heat their tanks but a goldfish can survive in cooler tank temperatures. But for ICK treatments it's suggested that the tank be raised to the high 70's.
Take care of your tank water and you'll have healthy fish. Make sure you do your weekly water changes and check your water quality often. Especially when your fish aren't acting 'normal'. Please keep us updated on your situation. If possible could you provide a photo of you white spots so we can conclude the problem with your fish.
But the best way for us to help solve your problems in the future is testing your water and providing us with the results.
First off.... you've got yourself a new tank that isn't Cycled yet. If you wish to better understand that process you can read that here. But you need to get test kits to check your water quality. With these results, the people here can helpyou a lot more with your problem. If possible you should get some form of testing supplies.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/cycle.html
It will take a month give or take to complete this process. During this process you are going to see high levels of Ammonia, Nitrates, and Nitrites. Dangerous to the fish if you don't do your water changes. Especially during this time. So you need to do weekly water changes Now and forever. But please take a moment to read about the Cycling of your tank. It's one of the most important things to know when you are starting out, as well as water changes. Otherwise the fish will poison itself in the water and die.
I would assume because your tank is a week old....that your ammonia levels could and are probably a bit high so you need to do a water change now. This could be a reason why your fish are hanging around the bottom as well. Never completely remove all the water. a 10-20% water change as Lee has mentioned is your proper way. Make sure you condition thenew tap water before you add it to the tank.
Next I'd like to address the "white spots" all over. Does it look like Salt all over your fish? Because if it does you need to treat them for ICK. Ick is the most common disease you'll find in a goldfish tank. If you have ICK in your tank... that would be the answer to why they are sitting at the bottom in my opinion. Ick is a parasite that attaches to a fish when it's stressed out. After a couple days it falls to the gravel and starts to lay eggs and in turn reproducing itself at a very fast rate. It can and will kill your fish if not treated. I find that fish tend to hide, look stressed out... end up with torn fins, act lazy, and it's back fin will be down flat on it's back when Ick starts. You first notice the fish acting a bit off... then you see the salt looking like spots all over their bodies. Here's a photo from KOKO's informative site.
ICK can be treated easily. Either treat with salt at a .3% solution OR with medications containing Malachite Green, Formalin or Copper. You can find medication for ICK at any pet store that sells fish. There are many types/brands. Just get some fast and follow the directions on the bottle carefully. I use RID ICK personally. But there are lots available. Here's a link to more information on how to treat ICK. It's a link to the disease section of this message board where members have provided some in depth information.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/...showtopic=12599
If it's breeding stars... most likely it will be larger white spots on the gill plates of your fish. But not covering your fish like you described. You may also notice your fish will have turbucles on it's front fins.... Here's a picture of my Blue Oranda with Breeding stars. His are quite large, while other fish may have tiny dots their gill plates. But if you say the spots are "all over" I'm not suspecting breeding stars
Lastely... your eggs in the gravel are not fertilzed and need to be removed . I would use a turkey baser if you don't have a syphon to remove them. They will go moldy in the tank and that will cause water quality problems for you for sure. Then eggs on the plant sound like they are fertilized. But my big question for you is "do you have the room for more fish". In a 10 gallon... no you don't as you are already overstocked. You have to really think about how much room you have and your means to care for them (if they survive). Just some things to think about. You can take a look at the breeding section here at KOKO's for more information.
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/breeding.html
All white coloured eggs are not fertilized, any amber/yellow eggs are. If you have yellowish / clear eggs with black dots in them... most likely they are going to hatch.
As far as needing a heater in general for your goldfish tank.... some people do and some people don't. I personally don't but my tank is at about 68-70*F depending on the temperature of my house. Some heat their tanks but a goldfish can survive in cooler tank temperatures. But for ICK treatments it's suggested that the tank be raised to the high 70's.
Take care of your tank water and you'll have healthy fish. Make sure you do your weekly water changes and check your water quality often. Especially when your fish aren't acting 'normal'. Please keep us updated on your situation. If possible could you provide a photo of you white spots so we can conclude the problem with your fish.
But the best way for us to help solve your problems in the future is testing your water and providing us with the results.
Thanks for the info, Barbara44!
I will go out and get testing supplies and post the results. I was never told about cycling the tank and will read up on this.
Both fish now have the white spots all over and there are a lot of them. Both fish stay at the bottom of the tank and don't really swim around. They do stay together though, it seems.
I bought Ick Clear by Jungle and put in one tablet after I did about a 25% water change. I removed the carbon pouch from the filter as that was per the directions on the package. My question is if I should give another dose, when should I do it and when can I replace the filter?
The Calico seems to be eating OK but my black moor, Onyx, doesn't seem to want to eat.
I don't want to breed the eggs as I do not have room and I am so new to this that I don't trust myself to do it properly. I need to take good care of the ones I have now.
I went to see it I could remove the eggs with a turket baster but they were so stuck to the gravel that they didn't want to budge. The next thing I knew, the Calico seemed to have eaten most of them. However, these had the white fuzz on them. Did it make him sick?? Today I removed the plants and washed them clear of the eggs and did the 25% water change and added the Ick Clear. There are still some unfertilized eggs embedded in the gravel. Should I do anything about them, and if so how can I remove them?
Also, I discovered really long, thin, white poop in the tank, and I believe it came from the calico but I'm not positive. I found it after I discovered she ate the eggs.
Any more info would be fantastic, as I don't know what steps to take now. I will obtain testing kits and post those results. And I will read up on cycling and attemp that also.
Thanks Barbara44 and all who help me with this!!
I will go out and get testing supplies and post the results. I was never told about cycling the tank and will read up on this.
Both fish now have the white spots all over and there are a lot of them. Both fish stay at the bottom of the tank and don't really swim around. They do stay together though, it seems.
I bought Ick Clear by Jungle and put in one tablet after I did about a 25% water change. I removed the carbon pouch from the filter as that was per the directions on the package. My question is if I should give another dose, when should I do it and when can I replace the filter?
The Calico seems to be eating OK but my black moor, Onyx, doesn't seem to want to eat.
I don't want to breed the eggs as I do not have room and I am so new to this that I don't trust myself to do it properly. I need to take good care of the ones I have now.
I went to see it I could remove the eggs with a turket baster but they were so stuck to the gravel that they didn't want to budge. The next thing I knew, the Calico seemed to have eaten most of them. However, these had the white fuzz on them. Did it make him sick?? Today I removed the plants and washed them clear of the eggs and did the 25% water change and added the Ick Clear. There are still some unfertilized eggs embedded in the gravel. Should I do anything about them, and if so how can I remove them?
Also, I discovered really long, thin, white poop in the tank, and I believe it came from the calico but I'm not positive. I found it after I discovered she ate the eggs.
Any more info would be fantastic, as I don't know what steps to take now. I will obtain testing kits and post those results. And I will read up on cycling and attemp that also.
Thanks Barbara44 and all who help me with this!!
I went out and got the testing kit.
WOW!
Amonia level is 4.0!!!
I did another water change to help reduce it. I added some Prime. Is there anything else I should add???
Nitrite 0.0
High Range pH 7.5-7.6
Nitrate 0.0
Black moor seems to be coming around a little. Swam to surface and stayed there, like he was trying to get fresh air or something. Is that possibly because of the water?
I'm worried about the filter. Should I replace the carbon pouch, even though I put in the medication for the Ick? The package said to remove it.
Thanks for any help!!!
Babybell01
WOW!
Amonia level is 4.0!!!
I did another water change to help reduce it. I added some Prime. Is there anything else I should add???
Nitrite 0.0
High Range pH 7.5-7.6
Nitrate 0.0
Black moor seems to be coming around a little. Swam to surface and stayed there, like he was trying to get fresh air or something. Is that possibly because of the water?
I'm worried about the filter. Should I replace the carbon pouch, even though I put in the medication for the Ick? The package said to remove it.
Thanks for any help!!!
Babybell01
It appears like you are in the first stages of the Cycle Process. Yay! I hope that you've had time to read up on it by now. It's really interesting and informative and is the #1 thing that makes or breaks a fish hobbyist. Most stores don't tell you about this Cycling of the tank.. People get frustrated because their fish are dying, and give up. I learned about it the same way you are .... RIGHT NOW. There should be a law out there in my opinion that all Fish clerks MUST inform a new tank owner of this process.
Your ammonia is high. I would continue to do DAILY water changes to help with this. It's going to be up and down during the cycling process. It's important to keep watching your levels and if they are high you do your daily water changes. After about 2 weeks you'll notice a spike in Nitrites. It's really important to do your water changes then too. Once you start seeing Nitrate levels showing up in your testing.... you know that the process is soon going to be over. When you've got 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite and about 5-25 Nitrates, you've got good water quality. Just hang in there.
Now... your ICK problem. You did get some Ick meds. That's great. The Carbon filter is not to be replaced just yet as it will pull all the medication out of the tank if you replace it. I think you have to (according to the bottle) continue treatment for 3 days manditory and continue if you see the white spots remaining on the body. The insert to the bottle you purchased should mention this. You will probably see a marked improvement in their behaviour by morning. Just remember.. if you see the white spots dissappear it doesn't always mean the problem is gone. So make sure you keep treating for the required # of days. if the white spots are gone tomorrow... it just means the parasite has fallen off and they are laying tons of eggs to start the process all over again.
You could also try adding some Aquarium salt to the tank to help get rid of the ICK. I provided the link to help you with that information above. Just make sure you use salt that does NOT contain iodine. You can buy this at a pet store too.
As for the PH of the tank.. you need not to worry just yet but do keep an eye out for you PH levels and make sure they are consistant. You're levels right now are fine in my opinion. In fact nitrifying bacteria thrive best between 7.5 and 8.6ph. Just do another test tomorrow and the next day while treating your ICK and let us know about it.
As for your filter cartridge right now. That's the place where your beneficial bacteria are starting to grow. There and your gravel and plants etc. Your tank is currently in the making.... your cycle process is beginning. You've just got a bump in the road with ICK that's all. Once your tank is fully cycled you treat that filter cartridge like gold when you clean your tank. You only rinse the filter cartridge in the water removed from the tank when you are cleaning. NOT clean tap water... or you'll kill off the beneficial bacteria that keeps the tank in check. Kill off the good bacteria and you start the cycle process all over again. This is called a Cycle Crash. When I clean my tanks.. I personally do 20% water change EVERY WEEK. One week I syphon the water and clean the gravel up with the syphon. The next week I leave the gravel alone and I rinse my filter cartridge. But I never do both in the same week. That way I"m protecting the beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacteria that live in the filter media need to have water with ammonia and nitrites on a regular basis to turn it into Nitrates. They turn the bad stuff into good stuff
But too much of a good thing is also bad. *smaks head*. Once your tank is "Cycled" Just keep your nitrate levels below 40. Anything between 5 and 25 is good. To determine how long you can go between water changes you test each day and see how long it takes to get to 40. That is how long between changes you can go. But keep a habit of doing weekly water changes... and you'll get into a routine.
As far as your fish not eating. Keep an eye on that. Fish can fast for a couple days no problem. Keep us updated on their eating habits.
I am also going to ask another member of the MOD/HELPER team to check out this thread to get a 2nd opinion. We'd both feel better after that too. They will most likely add comments to help you as well. 
Keep up the good work!
Your ammonia is high. I would continue to do DAILY water changes to help with this. It's going to be up and down during the cycling process. It's important to keep watching your levels and if they are high you do your daily water changes. After about 2 weeks you'll notice a spike in Nitrites. It's really important to do your water changes then too. Once you start seeing Nitrate levels showing up in your testing.... you know that the process is soon going to be over. When you've got 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite and about 5-25 Nitrates, you've got good water quality. Just hang in there.
Now... your ICK problem. You did get some Ick meds. That's great. The Carbon filter is not to be replaced just yet as it will pull all the medication out of the tank if you replace it. I think you have to (according to the bottle) continue treatment for 3 days manditory and continue if you see the white spots remaining on the body. The insert to the bottle you purchased should mention this. You will probably see a marked improvement in their behaviour by morning. Just remember.. if you see the white spots dissappear it doesn't always mean the problem is gone. So make sure you keep treating for the required # of days. if the white spots are gone tomorrow... it just means the parasite has fallen off and they are laying tons of eggs to start the process all over again.
You could also try adding some Aquarium salt to the tank to help get rid of the ICK. I provided the link to help you with that information above. Just make sure you use salt that does NOT contain iodine. You can buy this at a pet store too.
As for the PH of the tank.. you need not to worry just yet but do keep an eye out for you PH levels and make sure they are consistant. You're levels right now are fine in my opinion. In fact nitrifying bacteria thrive best between 7.5 and 8.6ph. Just do another test tomorrow and the next day while treating your ICK and let us know about it.
As for your filter cartridge right now. That's the place where your beneficial bacteria are starting to grow. There and your gravel and plants etc. Your tank is currently in the making.... your cycle process is beginning. You've just got a bump in the road with ICK that's all. Once your tank is fully cycled you treat that filter cartridge like gold when you clean your tank. You only rinse the filter cartridge in the water removed from the tank when you are cleaning. NOT clean tap water... or you'll kill off the beneficial bacteria that keeps the tank in check. Kill off the good bacteria and you start the cycle process all over again. This is called a Cycle Crash. When I clean my tanks.. I personally do 20% water change EVERY WEEK. One week I syphon the water and clean the gravel up with the syphon. The next week I leave the gravel alone and I rinse my filter cartridge. But I never do both in the same week. That way I"m protecting the beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacteria that live in the filter media need to have water with ammonia and nitrites on a regular basis to turn it into Nitrates. They turn the bad stuff into good stuff
But too much of a good thing is also bad. *smaks head*. Once your tank is "Cycled" Just keep your nitrate levels below 40. Anything between 5 and 25 is good. To determine how long you can go between water changes you test each day and see how long it takes to get to 40. That is how long between changes you can go. But keep a habit of doing weekly water changes... and you'll get into a routine.
As far as your fish not eating. Keep an eye on that. Fish can fast for a couple days no problem. Keep us updated on their eating habits.
I am also going to ask another member of the MOD/HELPER team to check out this thread to get a 2nd opinion. We'd both feel better after that too.
They will most likely add comments to help you as well. Keep up the good work!
Hi babybell and welcome. I see Barb has been taking real good care of you here. As well as Jen.
I am going to move your thread to the sick forum, that way we can keep an eye on it.
As stated above, if the white spots are all over pretty sure it is probably ich.
I myself don't like to treat ich with meds but with aquarium salt. Salt is safer and "cheaper" to a certain degree, especially in a cycling tank.
Thru all of Barb's posts I am not sure if I remember the dose for salting a tank. If I am repeating it please bare with me.
The dose is 1tsp per gallon of water to get to 0.1%.
Now to treat ich you have to gradually increase that to 0.3%. So once you have the intitial dose in wait 12 hours and add the second dose then again wait 12 hours and then add the final round.
Remember that when you do a water change you are removing the salt so you will have to measure out what you change and place that much salt back in. At this stage you don't have to add the salt back in the 12 hour intervals. All at once is fine.
It is best to dissolve the salt in tank water first then add that to the tank.
Along with the salt we recommend to raise the temp to 80F. You will have to do this slowly, only 2 degrees an hour until you are there.
This will speed up the life process of the ich making it more suseptiable and quicker to cure. With this bare in mind it will look worse quick but be patient.
During this treatment it is necessary to vacuum daily for the cysts that fall off the fish.
I know this is all overwhelming, but we are here to guide you thru.
I am going to move your thread to the sick forum, that way we can keep an eye on it.
As stated above, if the white spots are all over pretty sure it is probably ich.
I myself don't like to treat ich with meds but with aquarium salt. Salt is safer and "cheaper" to a certain degree, especially in a cycling tank.
Thru all of Barb's posts I am not sure if I remember the dose for salting a tank. If I am repeating it please bare with me.
The dose is 1tsp per gallon of water to get to 0.1%.
Now to treat ich you have to gradually increase that to 0.3%. So once you have the intitial dose in wait 12 hours and add the second dose then again wait 12 hours and then add the final round.
Remember that when you do a water change you are removing the salt so you will have to measure out what you change and place that much salt back in. At this stage you don't have to add the salt back in the 12 hour intervals. All at once is fine.
It is best to dissolve the salt in tank water first then add that to the tank.
Along with the salt we recommend to raise the temp to 80F. You will have to do this slowly, only 2 degrees an hour until you are there.
This will speed up the life process of the ich making it more suseptiable and quicker to cure. With this bare in mind it will look worse quick but be patient.
During this treatment it is necessary to vacuum daily for the cysts that fall off the fish.
I know this is all overwhelming, but we are here to guide you thru.
Thanks for the added help Laurie! I was unsure of the salting dosage for ICK so I've learned something here too. Thanks.
Always a pleasure to be of assistance.
(I piggy backed many of threads........I am sure Paul and Carol, Andrea to name a few thought they had a stalker!!).
(I piggy backed many of threads........I am sure Paul and Carol, Andrea to name a few thought they had a stalker!!).
Oh NO!!
My black moor died
After I chaneged the water last night I posted the previous message. Went back in to check on them and he wasn't moving. Just a 1/2 hour before he was staying at the top of the tank and seemed to be trying to get fresh air or something. I'm so sad about that!!
I hope I can save my calico!!! I just tested the water again and the Amonia went down a little. Seems to be between 1.0 and 2.0. But the water is cloudy.
I'm going to do another water change and add another dose of the Ick Clear. The active ingredients in my Ick clear are victoria green and acriflavine. Not the the ones mentioned in a previous post. Should I change to another med or just go with the salt?
The Calico still doesn't seem to want to eat. Should I try other things? He spit out the dry bloodworms and didn't seem to want to try the shrimp pellets. Also, I got tubifex worm cubes but they wouldn't stick to the inside of the tank. Any suggestions? I noticed a lot of people use peas, but what kind could I try? I'm sorry I am so clueless!!!
HELP!!
Babybell01
My black moor died
After I chaneged the water last night I posted the previous message. Went back in to check on them and he wasn't moving. Just a 1/2 hour before he was staying at the top of the tank and seemed to be trying to get fresh air or something. I'm so sad about that!!
I hope I can save my calico!!! I just tested the water again and the Amonia went down a little. Seems to be between 1.0 and 2.0. But the water is cloudy.
I'm going to do another water change and add another dose of the Ick Clear. The active ingredients in my Ick clear are victoria green and acriflavine. Not the the ones mentioned in a previous post. Should I change to another med or just go with the salt?
The Calico still doesn't seem to want to eat. Should I try other things? He spit out the dry bloodworms and didn't seem to want to try the shrimp pellets. Also, I got tubifex worm cubes but they wouldn't stick to the inside of the tank. Any suggestions? I noticed a lot of people use peas, but what kind could I try? I'm sorry I am so clueless!!!
HELP!!
Babybell01
Barb and everyone here has been doing a good job of helping you. I am very very sorry that your black moor did not make it.
Unfortunately nearly every one of us lost fish (I have lost a LOT of them) from things that we simply did not know. That is why Koko's is a good place - the knowledge of hundreds and hundreds of people is all put together here - and hopefully we can help you miss some of the pitfalls that have caught us in the past.
As important as conquering the ich is, getting the water under control is really the name of the game. Ich is an opportunistic parasite that takes over when the water is less than good. You can go a long way toward getting rid of those nasties simply by getting the water parameters under control.
I do not know how many days you have treated with RidIch - but perhaps you are on your 3rd day, so I am going to make a suggestion.....
Ich is an insidious little parasite - one that will encyst and hide in the gravel and other places, impervious to medications or salt. There it will wait until the fish are stressed by any problem, popping out to attack when their defenses are down. But, since salt, as noted here above, will kill and control the ich, yet is very benign, cheap and easy to dose, it may be the treatment of choice when you are dealing with an uncycled tank.
If you can handle it, I would suggest that you do a 100% water change every day for a bit here. Get a clean bucket or bowl. Scoop out enough water to fill it and place your fish in the bowl. Do not be afraid to scoop the fish up with your hand - ich does not transfer to humans. You can also use the scoop that you use to get the water and gently scoop the fish into that. These are better methods than a net - which may catch scales and injure the fish.
SEt the bowl aside for a bit. Empty out all the water from the tank. Refill your tank with water, treating it as you have done before - dechlorinator and checking the temperature. Since the average 10 gallon tank holds 9 gallons when filled to within a 1/2 inch of the top rim, calculate your salt this way - 3 level teaspoons of aquarium salt (the LARGE grained type that is sold in the fish dept.) for every gallon will get your tank to the .3% salt you want - so that is 27 teaspoons of salt. You can put this in a jar or container and shake and stir it up to dissolve it faster. Add this salt to the tank - but do not pour it in through the filter. Pour it to the side so it can dissapate in the water before being sucked into the filter...
(Edit: I hope I do not confuse the issue - but for your weaker fish - actually for most fish, it is better if you sneak up on the salt dose. Add 9 teaspoons of dissolved salt per the 9 gallons of water the first time. The next 100% water change you would add 18 tesaspoons in the 9 gallons. Finally, the next 100% water change would have the 27 teaspoons of salt. Keep in mind that if you change LESS than all 9 gallons you need to measure how much water you take out and only add the salt for that amount back. For example, once the tank is at .3% salt, and you changed out 5 gallons, you would add back 5 gallons of water with 15 teaspoons of salt in it - bringing your replacement water to the .3% salinity. )
Set your aeration going. Start up the filter. Place the fish back in the tank.
That fish will produce plenty of waste/ammonia each day to feed the beneficial bacteria that make up a nitrogen cycled tank work, so you do not need to be afraid to change out all the water for a bit. Getting the toxic ammonia and the ich under control are paramount here, right now.
When you change the water, you can take the filter cartridge out of the filter and bang it or rub it clean in the USED fish water. Do not run tap water over it. It will start to grow the beneficial bacteria even as you change all the water.
Even after the ich spots disappear, it would be a good thing to continue with the .3% salt for at least 3 weeks..... As the ich goes, you will find that it is less and less important to do a 100% change of water - and you may be able to do only 80% or 75% and still keep the ammonia down to .50 or less. When the nitrites kick in, the same thing applies - change out what you need to, to keep the toxins down below .50ppm. The salt will help protect the fish from nitrite poisoning, too.
Do not be afraid of water changes. They are GOOD things.
There are several methods you can use to help that biological cycle get going faster - the best one being the use of a "seed". This is a small amount of the beneficial bacteria that is added to your tank to help grow the colony. While you are changing large amounts of water on a daily basis to help conquer the ich, though, something like BioSpira - a bacterial additive to seed the water - is not a good choice. It is in the water - you change the water and you toss it down the drain.
So hang in there for a bit with the salt and water changes and such.
Try frozen green peas (it wil only take 2-3) - cooked a bit, and popped out of their shells. Chop one a bit so it is small enough for your fist to eat. Sometimes you can hand feed the little guy - holding the food in front of his mouth. I have, at times pressed peas through a screen sieve, and, with a bit of the water they were heated in, sucked the pea slush up in a tiny plastic syringe and squirted it in the fish's mouth to feed them.
Please let us know how it is going. We are all here for you.
Unfortunately nearly every one of us lost fish (I have lost a LOT of them) from things that we simply did not know. That is why Koko's is a good place - the knowledge of hundreds and hundreds of people is all put together here - and hopefully we can help you miss some of the pitfalls that have caught us in the past.
As important as conquering the ich is, getting the water under control is really the name of the game. Ich is an opportunistic parasite that takes over when the water is less than good. You can go a long way toward getting rid of those nasties simply by getting the water parameters under control.
I do not know how many days you have treated with RidIch - but perhaps you are on your 3rd day, so I am going to make a suggestion.....
Ich is an insidious little parasite - one that will encyst and hide in the gravel and other places, impervious to medications or salt. There it will wait until the fish are stressed by any problem, popping out to attack when their defenses are down. But, since salt, as noted here above, will kill and control the ich, yet is very benign, cheap and easy to dose, it may be the treatment of choice when you are dealing with an uncycled tank.
If you can handle it, I would suggest that you do a 100% water change every day for a bit here. Get a clean bucket or bowl. Scoop out enough water to fill it and place your fish in the bowl. Do not be afraid to scoop the fish up with your hand - ich does not transfer to humans. You can also use the scoop that you use to get the water and gently scoop the fish into that. These are better methods than a net - which may catch scales and injure the fish.
SEt the bowl aside for a bit. Empty out all the water from the tank. Refill your tank with water, treating it as you have done before - dechlorinator and checking the temperature. Since the average 10 gallon tank holds 9 gallons when filled to within a 1/2 inch of the top rim, calculate your salt this way - 3 level teaspoons of aquarium salt (the LARGE grained type that is sold in the fish dept.) for every gallon will get your tank to the .3% salt you want - so that is 27 teaspoons of salt. You can put this in a jar or container and shake and stir it up to dissolve it faster. Add this salt to the tank - but do not pour it in through the filter. Pour it to the side so it can dissapate in the water before being sucked into the filter...
(Edit: I hope I do not confuse the issue - but for your weaker fish - actually for most fish, it is better if you sneak up on the salt dose. Add 9 teaspoons of dissolved salt per the 9 gallons of water the first time. The next 100% water change you would add 18 tesaspoons in the 9 gallons. Finally, the next 100% water change would have the 27 teaspoons of salt. Keep in mind that if you change LESS than all 9 gallons you need to measure how much water you take out and only add the salt for that amount back. For example, once the tank is at .3% salt, and you changed out 5 gallons, you would add back 5 gallons of water with 15 teaspoons of salt in it - bringing your replacement water to the .3% salinity. )
Set your aeration going. Start up the filter. Place the fish back in the tank.
That fish will produce plenty of waste/ammonia each day to feed the beneficial bacteria that make up a nitrogen cycled tank work, so you do not need to be afraid to change out all the water for a bit. Getting the toxic ammonia and the ich under control are paramount here, right now.
When you change the water, you can take the filter cartridge out of the filter and bang it or rub it clean in the USED fish water. Do not run tap water over it. It will start to grow the beneficial bacteria even as you change all the water.
Even after the ich spots disappear, it would be a good thing to continue with the .3% salt for at least 3 weeks..... As the ich goes, you will find that it is less and less important to do a 100% change of water - and you may be able to do only 80% or 75% and still keep the ammonia down to .50 or less. When the nitrites kick in, the same thing applies - change out what you need to, to keep the toxins down below .50ppm. The salt will help protect the fish from nitrite poisoning, too.
Do not be afraid of water changes. They are GOOD things.
There are several methods you can use to help that biological cycle get going faster - the best one being the use of a "seed". This is a small amount of the beneficial bacteria that is added to your tank to help grow the colony. While you are changing large amounts of water on a daily basis to help conquer the ich, though, something like BioSpira - a bacterial additive to seed the water - is not a good choice. It is in the water - you change the water and you toss it down the drain.
So hang in there for a bit with the salt and water changes and such.
Try frozen green peas (it wil only take 2-3) - cooked a bit, and popped out of their shells. Chop one a bit so it is small enough for your fist to eat. Sometimes you can hand feed the little guy - holding the food in front of his mouth. I have, at times pressed peas through a screen sieve, and, with a bit of the water they were heated in, sucked the pea slush up in a tiny plastic syringe and squirted it in the fish's mouth to feed them.
Please let us know how it is going. We are all here for you.
Babybell I am sorry to hear your moor died. How horrible, hopefully the calico can pull thru. Daryl has given you some great information with ich, hopefully we can get the ich before he takes another life.
Oh babybell.. I'm so sorry about your moor. You are trying your best so don't get yourself down about it. Let's hope we can get this undercontrol. You sound like you are doing everything possible so keep up the good work along with following some fantastic advice here.
You all have been fantastic!! I appreciate all the help and advice you've given!! I wouldn't know what I would do without you guys!!! 
OK- I went out and bought a 2 gallon bucket (Rubbermaid, hope that's OK), a syphon tube, a new carbon filter, some salt, and a water temp. thermometer that stays in the tank. I also bought a scrub brush for the inside of the tank.
I syphoned the gravel and Boy!! I got a lot of white fuzzy things (eggs?) and white stringy things, and particles of food! I changed the water and added some Prime. Couple of questions:
1. How much Prime can I use if I do a 100% water change?
2. When I do a water change, what temp should the water be? I've been using about 78 degrees, as that is what my instructions that came with the tank said.
3. The sides of the tank are feeling pretty slimey, should I scrub them when I do the water change?
4. The water is pretty cloudy even after I do the water change. Any ideas?
5. My ammonia level at this point is .25. My fish does not want to swim around at all, and sits behind the rock at all times. Just moves around when I change the water. Any thoughts?
6. I have not added any salt yet as I am unsure of a few things. The container says for a general tonic and stress reducer, use one tablespoon per 5 gallons, and then for goldfish bowls it says 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. I have a 10 gallon tank. So, if I do a 100% water change in the morning, how much salt should I add the first time?
I am so sorry I am so confused! I just don't want to do anything wrong!!
I bought a new filter pouch. Should I change it in the morning when I do the water change or should I clean the old one? Actually, right now I don't have the carbon pouch inserted as I was using Ich Clear. Do I need to keep the cartridge out when using salt?
One more question? Is it harmful to complete empty the tank including the gravel and add new fresh gravel or glass pebbles?
I appreciate all your help and advice! I apologize if I drive anyone crazy with these questions!! But I am determined to get things right and creat a safe environment for my fishies!!
Thanks!
Babybell01
OK- I went out and bought a 2 gallon bucket (Rubbermaid, hope that's OK), a syphon tube, a new carbon filter, some salt, and a water temp. thermometer that stays in the tank. I also bought a scrub brush for the inside of the tank.
I syphoned the gravel and Boy!! I got a lot of white fuzzy things (eggs?) and white stringy things, and particles of food! I changed the water and added some Prime. Couple of questions:
1. How much Prime can I use if I do a 100% water change?
2. When I do a water change, what temp should the water be? I've been using about 78 degrees, as that is what my instructions that came with the tank said.
3. The sides of the tank are feeling pretty slimey, should I scrub them when I do the water change?
4. The water is pretty cloudy even after I do the water change. Any ideas?
5. My ammonia level at this point is .25. My fish does not want to swim around at all, and sits behind the rock at all times. Just moves around when I change the water. Any thoughts?
6. I have not added any salt yet as I am unsure of a few things. The container says for a general tonic and stress reducer, use one tablespoon per 5 gallons, and then for goldfish bowls it says 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. I have a 10 gallon tank. So, if I do a 100% water change in the morning, how much salt should I add the first time?
I am so sorry I am so confused! I just don't want to do anything wrong!!
I bought a new filter pouch. Should I change it in the morning when I do the water change or should I clean the old one? Actually, right now I don't have the carbon pouch inserted as I was using Ich Clear. Do I need to keep the cartridge out when using salt?
One more question? Is it harmful to complete empty the tank including the gravel and add new fresh gravel or glass pebbles?
I appreciate all your help and advice! I apologize if I drive anyone crazy with these questions!! But I am determined to get things right and creat a safe environment for my fishies!!
Thanks!
Babybell01
Boy that is alot to cover in one reply so bare with me.
Ok, for the 100% water change, I don't recommend this. Not sure where you got that idea, but that would hurt more than help at this point.
I would do a 30% change for now. Try and temp match the water to the tank's. 78 is good.
Next is this the first time you have syphoned the gravel? If so, well you could've released the toxins beneath it. Usually if you haven't vacuumed it is best to do it 1/4 tank per day until you get it all done. But what is done is done, just watch for the fish to get sicker. If so you'll have to do supportive care...........water control.
For the prime you use what will condition your whole tank. For example you have a 20 gal tank, but only change 10 gals, you use enough Prime to treat 20 gals. Make sense?
Concerning the sides of the tank, I would clean the front and the sides and leave back for now. It is usually best to do "half" the tank when cleaning alot. You can clean the back next time.
When the water is cloudy after a change, you stir things up so you need to let the filter do it's thing to get it clear.
Now if the tank is still cycling, (can't remember but I think your is) it will continue to do so. This is a bacteria bloom and is necessary. Once the tank cycles completely it will clear.
It is a good idea to check all the levels and post them back for us. This way we know them fresh. With the 30% change and the Prime that will help to deal with the ammonia.
Remember when you have ammonia and use the Prime it will still show up on the test. However it is "binded" to be non toxic for the moment buying time to get it under control. (I can go into this more later).
Salt is a good stress reducer and a natural medicine for fish.
The dose is 1tsp per gallon of water to reach a 0.1% concentration. To fully treat ich you need to run the tank at a 0.3% concentration.
But adding the salt slowly over 36 hours is necessary in the beginging.
Meaning add the appropriate amount for the gals of the tank, wait 12 hours and then add them again. do the same a third time. (if this is not clear let us know and we can better explain it).
Now when the salt is in the tank it doesn't evaporate. As you do water changes you will have to measure out what you just took out and place that much salt back in the tank.
Once the salt is running at 0.3% you don't have to add it back slowly during water changes. (make sense?)
I wouldn't change the filter, if it is glogged with goo, just gently rinse it in tank water as you do a change. This is where the good bacteria live and you don't want to kill it off.
As for the new gravel or pebbles are you needing or wanting to change them?
Ok, for the 100% water change, I don't recommend this. Not sure where you got that idea, but that would hurt more than help at this point.
I would do a 30% change for now. Try and temp match the water to the tank's. 78 is good.
Next is this the first time you have syphoned the gravel? If so, well you could've released the toxins beneath it. Usually if you haven't vacuumed it is best to do it 1/4 tank per day until you get it all done. But what is done is done, just watch for the fish to get sicker. If so you'll have to do supportive care...........water control.
For the prime you use what will condition your whole tank. For example you have a 20 gal tank, but only change 10 gals, you use enough Prime to treat 20 gals. Make sense?
Concerning the sides of the tank, I would clean the front and the sides and leave back for now. It is usually best to do "half" the tank when cleaning alot. You can clean the back next time.
When the water is cloudy after a change, you stir things up so you need to let the filter do it's thing to get it clear.
Now if the tank is still cycling, (can't remember but I think your is) it will continue to do so. This is a bacteria bloom and is necessary. Once the tank cycles completely it will clear.
It is a good idea to check all the levels and post them back for us. This way we know them fresh. With the 30% change and the Prime that will help to deal with the ammonia.
Remember when you have ammonia and use the Prime it will still show up on the test. However it is "binded" to be non toxic for the moment buying time to get it under control. (I can go into this more later).
Salt is a good stress reducer and a natural medicine for fish.
The dose is 1tsp per gallon of water to reach a 0.1% concentration. To fully treat ich you need to run the tank at a 0.3% concentration.
But adding the salt slowly over 36 hours is necessary in the beginging.
Meaning add the appropriate amount for the gals of the tank, wait 12 hours and then add them again. do the same a third time. (if this is not clear let us know and we can better explain it).
Now when the salt is in the tank it doesn't evaporate. As you do water changes you will have to measure out what you just took out and place that much salt back in the tank.
Once the salt is running at 0.3% you don't have to add it back slowly during water changes. (make sense?)
I wouldn't change the filter, if it is glogged with goo, just gently rinse it in tank water as you do a change. This is where the good bacteria live and you don't want to kill it off.
As for the new gravel or pebbles are you needing or wanting to change them?
Thanks for the info, LaurieP!
It was my first time syphoning the tank, but I know I didn't get all the debris. Best if I leave it alone until my cycling is over???
I will start the salt with my morning water change. Should I dissolve it first in tank water? So I will add 10 tsp for a 10 gallon tank, am I right? The next day, add another 10 tsp and the third another 10? If I do a daily water change, say about 30% (or 3 gallons) should I then put in 13 tsp of salt on the second and third day?
After the three days when it is .3% do I just then add only the tsps that I took out during that water change?
About the gravel, I didn't know if I would be better off starting over or not to get the tank clean.
One other question - should I test the water before or after the water change?
Thanks for the advice!
Babybell01
It was my first time syphoning the tank, but I know I didn't get all the debris. Best if I leave it alone until my cycling is over???
I will start the salt with my morning water change. Should I dissolve it first in tank water? So I will add 10 tsp for a 10 gallon tank, am I right? The next day, add another 10 tsp and the third another 10? If I do a daily water change, say about 30% (or 3 gallons) should I then put in 13 tsp of salt on the second and third day?
After the three days when it is .3% do I just then add only the tsps that I took out during that water change?
About the gravel, I didn't know if I would be better off starting over or not to get the tank clean.
One other question - should I test the water before or after the water change?
Thanks for the advice!
Babybell01
When syphoning at any tank cleaning you wont ever get all the debris. So don't worry about it. Besides as Laurie said it's best to do portions at different cleaning times as your tank is going through a tough phase. This protects the beneficial bacteria /cycle as well as your fish from the toxins under the gravel. AS for new gravel or not.. that's up to you. But your gravel will rarely look clean all the time. Besides, you've probably already started building up some beneficial bacteria in there. Thus speeding up the cycling process rather than starting from scratch.... so in my opinion it's best to leave it alone unless it's something you really want to change.
Looks like to me that you've got the Salt thing figured out
I personally test my water before and afterwards to make sure the water change has improved the results
Keep up the good work Babybell. you are well on your way of having great fish keeping habits. Good for you.
Just a quick note too... as most of us have said... make sure you only rinse your filter media in the removed tank water from your water changes. I mentioned how I do mine every other week... and the gravel syphoning opposite weeks. But... whatever you do.. don't go and buy a new filter media each time you clean your filter. I've had mine for what seems forever. It gets brown and gross.. but you just rinse it. All the good bacteria live there.
Looks like to me that you've got the Salt thing figured out
I personally test my water before and afterwards to make sure the water change has improved the results
Keep up the good work Babybell. you are well on your way of having great fish keeping habits. Good for you.
Just a quick note too... as most of us have said... make sure you only rinse your filter media in the removed tank water from your water changes. I mentioned how I do mine every other week... and the gravel syphoning opposite weeks. But... whatever you do.. don't go and buy a new filter media each time you clean your filter. I've had mine for what seems forever. It gets brown and gross.. but you just rinse it. All the good bacteria live there.
Great! Thanks guys!!
I'll post tomorrow with update and new test results!!
I'll post tomorrow with update and new test results!!
I believe that you are in great hands here with Barb and all. 
I just want to add that Prime can be triple dosed (even more if calculations are done accordingly) to the new water during a waterchange, even 100% changes. This will add an extra layer of protection against ammonia and/or nitrIte poisoning.
Hang in there, it will get easier. You seem to be a very willing fishkeeper and your taking everything in good stride. It will become the pleasurable experience it seemed to be at first. Just keep in mind that youll want to quarentine any new goldie you get to be a tankmate. That means another small tank/bin with filter waiting on standby.....
Good luck!
Paul
I just want to add that Prime can be triple dosed (even more if calculations are done accordingly) to the new water during a waterchange, even 100% changes. This will add an extra layer of protection against ammonia and/or nitrIte poisoning.Hang in there, it will get easier. You seem to be a very willing fishkeeper and your taking everything in good stride. It will become the pleasurable experience it seemed to be at first. Just keep in mind that youll want to quarentine any new goldie you get to be a tankmate. That means another small tank/bin with filter waiting on standby.....
Good luck!
Paul
Here's an update:
I tested the water before I did the change:
Ammonia .50
pH 7.4-7.5
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
After the change:
Ammonia .25
pH 7.4
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
I removed about 30% of the water, added 78 degree water then put in Prime. I dissolved 10 tsp of salt in tank water and added that in. (First time)
Fish still won't eat or swim and is constantly open and closing mouth. He stays in the corner of the tank.
The water is now a little clearer.
So, tomorrow I will do another 30% water change and add another 13 tsp of salt, am I correct? (10 for the gallon and 3 for the water I removed).
Please let me know if there is anything else I can do!!
Thanks guys!!
I tested the water before I did the change:
Ammonia .50
pH 7.4-7.5
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
After the change:
Ammonia .25
pH 7.4
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
I removed about 30% of the water, added 78 degree water then put in Prime. I dissolved 10 tsp of salt in tank water and added that in. (First time)
Fish still won't eat or swim and is constantly open and closing mouth. He stays in the corner of the tank.
The water is now a little clearer.
So, tomorrow I will do another 30% water change and add another 13 tsp of salt, am I correct? (10 for the gallon and 3 for the water I removed).
Please let me know if there is anything else I can do!!
Thanks guys!!
Looks like you have a great understanding of whats happening and what you need to do. You have the right idea with the salt treatment. So keep up the good work.
Looks like your water paramaters are getting better. Just keep posting if you are unsure and we will try out best to respond to you in a timely manner to help you out.
One thing I wanted to make sure you were doing...... You got yourself a new heater and when treating for ick and salting you should gradually not suddenly increase the temp to about 80*F. Make sure you turn your bubblers up to high as there will be an increased need in oxygen from the higher temp.
Has your goldie eaten at all ?. If not when did it eat last?
You are doing great
Looks like your water paramaters are getting better. Just keep posting if you are unsure and we will try out best to respond to you in a timely manner to help you out.
One thing I wanted to make sure you were doing...... You got yourself a new heater and when treating for ick and salting you should gradually not suddenly increase the temp to about 80*F. Make sure you turn your bubblers up to high as there will be an increased need in oxygen from the higher temp.
Has your goldie eaten at all ?. If not when did it eat last?
You are doing great
Although I tried my best, my fish died during the night I am so upset and discouraged now. My family and I really want to have fish, but I must be doing something wrong!
Do you think the problem started with the fish laying eggs in a non-cycled tank?
What can I do now? Should I start over completely from the beginning? Completely clean my tank out, put new gravel in and completely cycle it all the way through for a month and then get one goldfish?
I went through 3 fish in two weeks! I don't want to give up, but I don't want to harm any more fish. Just so discouraged!!
What do you think I should do? I feel awful about the whole thing!
You all have been so great and terrific and I appreciate all the time and help you've given me.
I really want to enjoy fish in my home - how can I proceed?
Thanks!
Babybell01
I am so upset and discouraged now. My family and I really want to have fish, but I must be doing something wrong!Do you think the problem started with the fish laying eggs in a non-cycled tank?
What can I do now? Should I start over completely from the beginning? Completely clean my tank out, put new gravel in and completely cycle it all the way through for a month and then get one goldfish?
I went through 3 fish in two weeks! I don't want to give up, but I don't want to harm any more fish. Just so discouraged!!
What do you think I should do? I feel awful about the whole thing!
You all have been so great and terrific and I appreciate all the time and help you've given me.
I really want to enjoy fish in my home - how can I proceed?
Thanks!
Babybell01
I am sorry to hear he didn't make it. It is tough, to keep fish alive during cycling.
You could either start again as you say cycling the tank "fishless" or do what you have been doing, hoping for a different outcome.
I personally haven't done a fishless cycle, although there is a very good article on how to do it here on the site.
Of course with the tank containing ich, I would completely clean it out and start again if that is what you choose.
Sorry again, but it is possible to keep fish......but you usually lose your first few until you get the handle of things. (I know, been there done that).
You could either start again as you say cycling the tank "fishless" or do what you have been doing, hoping for a different outcome.
I personally haven't done a fishless cycle, although there is a very good article on how to do it here on the site.
Of course with the tank containing ich, I would completely clean it out and start again if that is what you choose.
Sorry again, but it is possible to keep fish......but you usually lose your first few until you get the handle of things. (I know, been there done that).
I agree, its not your fault at all. Most folks learn about cycling a tank in much the same way you did. The hard way. Indeed, this was definitley a compound issue here as the ich did not make anything easier. 
Fortunately, without a host to live off of, the Ich in your tank will soon die off and there will be none left. They are one of the very few protozoans, that affect our fish, wich can be called a "true parasite". I would say that if you complete the cycling of your tank, the fishless way, by the time its fully cycled, your worries about ich will be looooooong gone.
Stick with it, your well on your way to becoming an excellent fishkeeper!
Fortunately, without a host to live off of, the Ich in your tank will soon die off and there will be none left. They are one of the very few protozoans, that affect our fish, wich can be called a "true parasite". I would say that if you complete the cycling of your tank, the fishless way, by the time its fully cycled, your worries about ich will be looooooong gone.
Stick with it, your well on your way to becoming an excellent fishkeeper!
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