One of my lionheads suddenly has some dark "redness" under a few scales around his gills and lower right side close to his lowest fin (?). I just did a 25% water change this morning. Nitates - 5, nitrites -0.1, ammonia - 0.1, PH -7.5-8. PH of tap water was the same.

He seemd to be a bit more "reserved" this afternoon but in the last few hours seems fine.

Can anyone help me out with this? I am getting very worried.

Sincerest thanks.

Christine

Does it resemble bruising? If so then its probably septiceamia brought on by the higher than normal ammonia and nitrites.
Could you give more details from the box above please to help us and in the meantime do more water changing to bring the two levels down to 0.
Is your tank new? as this may explain the levels you have. In a cycled tank the levels should be 0.

Hi Sandy- thanks!

Yes, it does look a bit like bruising, I checked the ammonia and it was at 0.1 before I did the water change. Nitrites were at 0.1 as well. I will check again now. And do another water change.


The tank has been running for about 2 months.

Is septiceamia deadly?

Christine

Actually, I did more like a 35 - 40% water change this morning. Is it still ok to do another water change? Seems like ammonia is at 0 but there is still another 5 minutes to wait for the final result.

I am in the process of reducing the salt as I had it raised to 0.3% to treat a minor ich outbreak. I had it at this level for over a week and just started to reduce it. Should I re-add the salt that I removed with this morning's water change and stop reducing it for the time being?

Any advice greatly appreciated!

As well as the above I also have MARACYN 2 and Medi-Gold. Please help! Everything I have read says that septicemia needs to be treated ASAP but I don't know what to do next. I am worried things will get worse.

Hi Christine,
Septicimia is very bad. I would start the Medigold right away. You should feed this exclusivly for 2 weeks even if the "bruise" goes away.

Now you need to check all the levels and repost them. You want to get the ammonia and nitrites to 0 while leaving some nitrates in the tank....preferalby 5 or above.

How long ago was the ich outbreak? And how long have you been treating it?

Your tank should be cycled, it is probably in it's final stages.
At this point I don't think I would use the Maracyn as it can wreck your cycle.

Septicimia really needs to be treated with injected antibotics...by a vet or by you if you have a vet that will let you have some meds.
This in combination with the medicated food only give a 50/50 chance of survival.
If no vet is in your area or this is out of the area for you, then the only thing to do is feed the medicated food and wait......Sorry to give you this news.
Are there any other fish in with him?

Hi Laurie,

I have one other fish, a lionhead as well, in the tank.

I am not sure where to find a vet that will help with fish - do most regular vets do this kind of thing? I will ask around.

Right now the ammonia is at 0 and nitrates at 5 and nitirites at 0.1 and which is the lowest reading my test gives. Do I still continue to do water changes? Salt?

Can you tell me what I could have done wrong to bring this on? Is there anything else that ould cause these symptoms?

Thanks for your help Laurie.

Forgot to ask above - should I give both fish the medigold?

Sorry again! My mind has been scattered as I am worried about my fish and I forgot to respond to your ich question. I have been treating the ich for about 2 weeks. Toothless had been guiding me on how to raise salinity and I did that for about 10 days since seeing the last white spec. The fish haven't been treated with meds.

Again, sorry for all the posts!

Do the fish still have the spots?.
The key to septiceamia is clean water, so doing regular water changes as well as the food will help.
How big is your tank and how often are you doing water changes?

Hi Sandy,

Just the one fish (I have 2) has the spots. Doesn't seem like it has spread since yesterday but he doesn't look like himself - hiding more than ususal although he still has an appetite.

The tank is 29 gallon and I only have 2 fish, both about 3 inches in length.

How much of a water change should I do? I did about 35% yesterday - should I do it daily? Or only if the ammonia, nitrate, nitrite levels are high?

Previously I had been changing 25% of the water every week.

Thanks for your help!

Christine

The septiceamia will have taken hold because he's ill with the ick. All you can do is lots of water changes and concentrate on keeping the salt going to kill off the ick. Septiceamia is usually viral so just keep doing 30% each day until it looks better as water quality is vital and keep checking your readings to make sure everything is where it should be.
I'm afraid its just one of things that happens. Lowered immunity plays havoc with them. Is the water heated at all? Raise it to 80 with lots of aeration.

Sandy is right, the only thing I will add is that you raise the temp slowly. 2 Degrees an hour is good.

Hope it goes well for you.

Sorry christine.... I just saw your other post about salt......



I woud continue with the salting if ich is still in the picture. If you see no ich spots and it has been 5 days since you last saw ANY of them, I would reduce your salt additions to a tablespoon per gallon. This is the suggested level for nitrIte poisoning, wich could very well be why your goldie doen't seem to be doing too well.


Good luck and keep us posted!

Ok. So just to clarify.

Everyday I do a 30% weter change adding 1 tablespoon of salt per gallon. (ie. if I take out 3 gallons of water I add 3 tbs of salt).

I noticed today that the fish now had little specks on his face and there are a few more dark spots. Although since he ate the medigold this morning he is much livlier and not hovering at the bottom of the tank. Tank temp is at 80.

So do I still give the fish medi-gold? I started today for both fish - one that shows no symptoms. I hope this is ok. How much should I be feeding them per day of this food?

Thanks again for all your help.

Christine

I do believe that is right about the salt. Since the tank is at 0.3% now correct?

I would feed the medigold a full 2 weeks and nothing else. You'll want to not overfeed as it won't be a good idea to get them constipated.
Usually twice a day feedings is good, depending on how big they are 3-6 pieces each is what I do. (twice daily that is).

The tank was at 0.3% but during the last 2 days I was reducing it slowly - I would say I removerd about 1/2 of the salt. So, do I just strat tomorrow adding the 1tbs per gallon back into the tank?

Sorry for the repetitive questions I just want to make sure I get this right. Should I feed peas as well as medi-gold to avoid constipation?

Thanks Laurie.

No worries.

--Feed medigold, exclusively, for the duration of this treatment. I don't hink constipation is an issue with medi-gold. Unless your goldie has a history of floating issues, you can feed as much as he will eat within 5 minutes, twice a day.

--From here on out, only use 1 tablespoon of salt, per gallon, at each waterchange.

--During treatments for almost anything, waterchanges are a great boon. you cna perform much more than 30% if you like. Is there any chance you could get pictures of the spots and darkened areas you're referring to?

If not, could you explain them in detail for us?

Also, just for the sake of refreshing us on everything, could you give us a recap of everything that has transpired to this point?



Post back soon.


Paul

Christine and Paul, the only reason I mention to be careful Over feeding the medigold is I do have a little piggy that gets constipated on it because he loves it so.
It is a pain to be in the middle of a treatment and have a gf have complications 'cause he is a glutton.

No worries, Laurie.

Its always good to be aware of possibilities like that. All in all, Past history of the fish is important to consider when thinking about constipation. Especially for fancies.....

Ok. I will keep my eyes open for any floating as one of them has had issues in the past with this. But so far so good. My problem is that sometimes the pellets fall and they don't see them!

I will try my best to get some good pics tomorrow morning and post them.

Ok. To let you know what has been going on. We originally had the 2 fish in a 10 gallon tank about 2 months ago. They lived there for about 2 months and I then bought a 29 gallon tank and was cycling it for about 6 weeks. I am not sure if the tank was completely cycled before adding the fish - at that time I didn't know all that I do now about testing for nitrates, nitrites etc. But the fish did well and once I learned (after the fact ) about the testing of the water I began testing the water religiously waiting for a spike in nitrates. During this time I noticed some small white specks on the tail of one of the fish (not the one that is sick now) and it also looked as if a chunk had been bitten from the part of the tail where the white specks were (fin rot???) The specks were not like the specks I see here on fish with ich - the body wsn't covered with them at all - just a few on the tail. Anyway, After getting some advice here I started raise the salinity of the water to 0.3%. Within a few days I noticed that the white specs were gone. I left it at 0.3% for about 10 days which brings me up to now. 2 days ago I started reducing the salinity of the water. I tested the water and everything was low although nitrates were slightly more elevated than a few days prior ( 7 instead of 5). One day prior to starting to reduce the salinity I noticed one of my fish was not as active and was hiding. When I looked at him more closely I saw the dark spots under his scales. I did a 35% water change (adding no salt back to the water) and another 25% change this morning. Since I still wasn't sure about the salt issue I only added 1 tbs for the 3 gallons of water I added back. The dark spots were originally only on his right side (close to the lowest fin on the side of his belly - sorry I don't know all the technical terms for their body parts! ) And another few behind the right side of his head.

This morning I also started giving the medi-gold food. As I mentioned before, since feeding this morning the fish has become more active but I am noticing more dark spots on the other side of his body and tiny black/dark specks on his face close to his eyes.

Hope this info is ok - if you feel I have missed anything let me know. I'll do a lrger water change tomorrow morning adding back the salt. All your advice is really appreciated. I wouldn't know where else to go!

Christine

P.S. Not sure if this is worth mentioning but I have been feeding them a homemade gel food fo the last month with Progold mixed into it.

Well, It will certainly help if you can get a few good pictures of the darkening areas you are seeing. Without them, I am afraid I can't picture what your describing.....

If you need some tips on geting good, clear shots, then don't hesitate to ask.

Hey Paul,

I'd realllllllly appreciate some tips as I haven't had much luck in the past getting good shots - either fish moves too much or they just aren't clear. The tiny snd like dark specks on the face of the fish are going to be really hard to see. It really just looks like tiny dark grains of sand - there are about 5 or 6. The dark spots look like bruising.

Tips would be great!! Thanks!

Sure:


If your camera has an auto-lock for the focus, then utilize it. Find something that is about 1-2 feet from your camera and try to lock ion it. Once a lock is had, move the camera to the exact same distance from the target fish. Wait for the right moment and snap the pic. You can get two types of locks, one is when you keep your finger lightly pressed on the button or sometimes you can get a lock without having to keep your finger on the botton. Refer to your manual for more tips in that department.

Take the pictures at either a downwards facing angle, or a side angle. This keep the flash from bouncing directly back at your camera.

Take MANY, MANY pics and delete those that are no good. Usually one or two shots out of ten is a keeper.

Use the macro setting for up close shots. You can get some great detail with that setting and we might even be able to see the black specs you are seeing....


Good luck!


Paul

Hi there,

Just a quick update n my lionhead.

I have been doing daily water changes and have him on the medi-gold. Since starting the medi-gold he has been his regular active self. He is eating well. The spots are on both sides - but they don't seems worse yet anyway! Still with the dark specks on his face.

Since there is a possibility that my tank wasn't yet cycled am I doing damage by doing these daily water changes? Or in situations like this does the priority become keeping the water clean?

Ok- so I continue daily water changes with salt until the situation improves. How do I know when things are better? Will the spots disappear or is it just his beahviour (eating, pooping, active) that let me know that he's ok?

Paul - I am workign on getting those pics. By the time I get home from work lately the light have gone off in the tank and the fish are sleeping - don't want to stress them by turning on the lights suddenly to take the pics but hopefully tomorrow I will have some to post.

Thanks!

Christine

Yeah, having the papparazi show up at 2 in the morning would stress me out, thats for sure!

Keeping the water quality good is definitely priority. Damaged cycle or not. It will definitely take longer for a damaged bio-filter to recover its equilibrium but that is always a temporary thing, giving that the flowrate and bio-area is sufficient.....


These black flecks and spots are most likely nothing to worry about. As long as they remain active and are still eating, they are not in too much, if any, discomfort. Just keep their water happy and they will remain happy.


Looking forward to the pics.....



Paul

Fish update:

Seems as if the scales on the lower belly of the fish are dry and it looks as if one of them is actually loose. The dark blotches under the scales have increased in some areas and a few of the "specks" on his face have expanded into blotches. Not sure what this all means but he remains active and is eating well.

Paul - should I continue adding the salt to the water? Just to double check - it's ok to change around 50% of the water daily?

Once again thanks for your help and patience!

Christine

Sorry, forgot to ask in my last post above about some grey fuzzy growth on a piece of driftwood I have in my tank. Should I remove this as I am treating my fish? Is it even safe at any time? Could it make them sick? Them seem to pick at it throughout the day.

Christine

I wouldn't worry too much about the friftwood. But, just for good measure, its a good idea to give them a good scrubbing every now and again....

I'm beginning to wonder if what your seeing is actually black pigments, naturally appearing under the other skin layers an pigments. The freckling on the head and the blackness apearing "under the scales" sounds a lot like what you would find on a calico goldfish. Here's a pic of what I mean:



Notice the redness around the gills. that is normal for a calico goldfish to have. Its just how the chromatophores and melanophores are arranged. Anyway, see the blackness that seems to be like a bruise on the musculature? Perfectly normal.

Does it look familiar?


Only continue with salt if you are testing positive for nitrItes. When they are reduced to 0ppm and remain thare, discontinue the salting.

You can very safely change 50% of your water per day. But, if your params are low enough, it doesn't need to be that much of a change. Then again, nice fresh water never hurts.


Paul

For good measure, try posting your parameters each day. This way, we can monitor the levels along with you.

Test your tapwater for pH and then the tankwater. Are they different?


Paul

Ok- PH of both tank water and tap water is always in the 7.5-8 range.

I wish I could say that my fish looked as good as the the one in the pic you showed me Paul but the scales on his lower belly almost seem dry (?) One of them actually looks loose. I don't know what that means. Someone else mentioned septicemia - if this is the case should I continue with salt?
Nitrites were at 0 and nitrates were at 5, ammonia 0.1 when I last checked this morning.
Fish was a bit awkward this morning......but throughout the day he is back to normal......eating, swimming etc. This morning he just seemed a bit "zoned out". Also, the other fish kept head butting him. But that has stopped as well.

It could be septicemia. Generally, you would see redness to his coloration and/or any of the following: Spiderweb veins in between the scales, finrot/splits, red veins increasing in the tail, red anal vent, redness and redness. Septicemia ALWAYS shows redness. So, if the darker coloration can be called a red, it is very likely you are right about septcemia.

Since speticemia is a condition brought on by pathogenic bacteria, they would need to be treated with an antibiotic that treats internally (medi-gold, furan two, erythromycin, minocycline). But, only if good clean water, extra waterchanges and perhaps a little salt does not seem to help.

The scales that are located directly on the belly of goldfish look different than the rest of them on the body. Are you taking this fact into account when your describing it as looking "dry"?

Have you been able to get the pictures yet?

What are his symptoms other than a darkening? Eating still? Bottom sitting most of the time? Stringy, white (not clear) poop? Split fins? Redness? What is the dominant color of this fish?


Sorry, I just want to be sure that your not just seeing his coloration becoming more natural as the water quality is improving. Could it be that he was pale beforehand and he is just looking more healthy. Again, I could be wrong. Without a picture, its a little hard to picture the darkening your describing. Especially not knowing the color of the fish. Sorry if I missed it earlier....


Post back soon.

Hi Paul,
Below are some pics that I took - still trying for the perfect one but thought these would be better than nothing in the meantime. Still haven't gotten a good head shot, whcih ill show the increasing number of these dark specks that seem to become larger (expanding?) each day.

His overall body colour has alway been orange. This is a pic I took of him before this darkening started to happen. http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/Aichihuahua/fish1.jpg

About the dry scales. I guess I have just been comparing his scales to my other fish who is white and orange. Pic here: http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/Aichihuahua/fish2.jpg
The scales of the white and orange fish seem much smoother in that lower belly region. Not sure if the white colour just creates this illusion? The areas of the orange fish where there is this dark colour under the scales seem to look a bit more lraised. I don't know - he just seemed healthier looking before (as in first pic)

As far as his behaviour goes he is still eating. Not sure if this makes any sense but I find that he is sleeping more deeply - one morning I woke up thinking he ws dead as he was sitting at the bottom of the tank and barely opening and closing his mouth. This is different from how I have seen him sleep before. But then throughout that same day, his activity level became normal. Yeasterday he seemed off for a little while in the morning. He would swim normally and then sort of let his body just drop, wouldn't move out of the way when the other fish swam by BUT again, an hour or less later, he's back to his regular self. Anyway, here are the pics, I know they are not the greatest but hopefully they will help somewhat as I work on improving my photography skills! Click on pic to enlarge.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/Aic...ua/Pict0058.jpg









Once again, thanks so much for your help!
Christine

Great news! The darkness under the scales certainly does NOT look like septicemia....


It looks like a classic case of ammonia burns OR some mutation in the color genes that triggered some "normal" melanophore migration. I have yet to find a single disease or affliction that causes this type of coloring to appear other than ammonia burns. Especially when there are NO other symptoms to speak of other than , maybe, a little lethargy. But, recent spikes in the parameters can and do cause lethergy.


So, I would just observe them closely for the next few days to a week and see if anything more developes. Just keep your salt at 0.1% until you have gotten your bio-filtration going strong. I have a feeling that your goldies are going to be fine.....



As for the photos, your focus is too far away. If your camera has it, use it on the macro setting for up close shots. Its either that, or back away from the subjects a bit.



Keep us updated on them.


Paul

That really is great news!

Now how do I keep my salt at 0.1%? Is that through adding 1 tbs. per gallon with each water change as I have been doing? Should I still do daily water changes or just go back to my once per week changes?

Would it be normal for these dark areas to be spreading even though ammonia levels are now at 0? Do these marking ever go away?

Also I started feeding them Medi-gold thinking it was septicemia Do I continue for the full 14 days or get them off it right away?

Sorry to bombard you with so many more questions! I really am thrilled to hear that it doesn't look like something as awful as septicemia (not that burns must be too nice for the poor little guy! )

Thanks Paul!

Go with the medi-gold for the prescribed time. Just in case there are any bacterias in him that might become immune to it by stopping it.

Yep, add 1 table spoon (or more precisely 2 3/4 level teaspoons) to each gallon of water your pour into the tank. This will make your salinity hover around 0.1% until you do a waterchange without it.

Ammonia burns, or chemical burns (from waterborne meds or toxins) do not show up until the fish begins to heal. It is essentially the equivelent to a scab on a human. Since the healing process cannot begin until the toxic level of the agitant is reduced. It seems as though the the blackening directly coincided with the drop in your parameters. At least, thats is how I am remembering your situation......

Did you ever gat another filter to add to the 29 galln? If i'm not mistaken, you converted your Aquatec to a bio-wheel, right? That in itself is good but I'm not too sure about the little internal filter and it being good enough for 30 gallons. The Aquatec is only 50% what your tank needs.....


Paul

Yes, you're right. I added a biowheel to my filter.Any suggestions as to what else I can do/add to make sure that that my tank is optimal?

Yep, there was also a slight drop in my parameters as well. On top of that I was salting at 0.3% and the water had evaporated ( about 1-2 inches). While I didn't add salt back to the tank to make up for the evaporation is it possible that the salt became more concentrated and escalated the problem?

Anyway, it's good to know that what I am seeing are signs of healing. Do I continue with daily water changes, or just back to once/twice a week?

Thanks!

Christine

Your waterchanges should be dictated by your parameters. If your ammonia remains nil, and so does the nitrItes, you can go back to doing weekly waterchanges to keep your nitrAtes below 40-50ppm. But, only if your cycle seems to have righted itself.

Well, to fix your filtration, I would say that you should purchase the exact filter you have now, or the penguin version of it. Either way, with the two matching filters and the bio-wheels, you will have tip-top filtration that will be able to handle the bio-load of your two goldfish throughout their lives.....

But, finding the old 170's might prove to be a hard find. You may want to get the Aquatec, if they are available without getting the package/tank deal. If you can't find either, I would go ahead and get the new version of the Penguin 170: http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/produc...id1=2885;pcid2=

It takes the same filterpads that the Penguin 170 and Aquatec 20-40's do. But, the bio-wheel is different as with a few other things. Still a VERY good filter and it would still give you tip-top filtration......


Paul

Ok - just trying to visualize this so please bear with me for a few more "primitive" questions!

Right now, I have a cannister that hangs off the back of my tank. In that cannister there is a blue filter and a white sponge (biofilter?) that are placed back to back on the cannister. On top of these I have the biowheel.

Ok so were you saying to buy another cannister (model you mentioned) which has another filter (same type that present cannister uses) and biowheel and have both running at the same time? Just to get a visual - I would have 2 cannisters hooked up to the tank, each one with it's own filter and biowheel?

And one more for the road - *cringe* How do I know if my cycle has righted itself? I am still not sure if my tank was ever cycled properly and am a bit confused as to know when to NOT interfere (if that makes any sense )

Again, sorry for for needing so much reassurance - just want to make sure I do this right! Thanks for your patience!

Christine

Okay, the filter we are talking about is the Regent/ Aquatec, right? if so, then this is what is known as a powerfilter or HOB filter (hang on back). A canister filter is a waterproof module that is separate from the tank. Only hoses run from the tank to the pump.


Okay, for a properly filtered 30 gallon aquarium, with two goldfish that are growing, the total flowrate should be anywhere from 275 to 350 gallons per hour. this pertains to HOB filters and internal filters ONLY. Canisters filters can have a much slower flowrate because of the excessive amount of space (bio-media) they have for beneficial bacteria to grow. Plus, the water is FORCED through the bio-media. That makes canisters the best.

Anyway, the flowrate of your Regent/Aquatec filter is only about 150 gph. 170 tops. Anyway, to have sufficient filtration for your tank, you need about double what the single HOB filter is providing. Now, If I remember correctly, you also have a small internal filter running right? Well this wont count for much if there isn't a substantial amount of area for beneficial bacters to colonize (bio-media like a large sponge). If it does have a nice sized sponge, it will help but it wont make your tank sufficient to keep up with your goldies.

So, That is why I suggest getting another filter equal to your one with the bio-wheel.

Now, you will need to keep doing waterchanges every other day or so until your water params go to 0ppm for ammonia and 0ppm for nitrItes and they STAY there. If they DO go to 0ppm before you get your added filtration, this does not mean it will remain that way if you skip on the added filter. As I said before, they are still growing......


Hope this helps!


Paul

Thanks for clarifying - now I get it! I actually just finished ordering the new filter.

Today, ammonia is at 0 and so are nitrites. I noticed that the fish with the burns is "sleeping" a lot more. He is still very inticed by the smell of food and is still eating but tends to return to one particular spot where he then sits at the bottom. Not all day but a lot more than he used to. I imagine that this could be due to the fact that he is healing? Comparing to humans who also tend to need more rest after any sort of trauma? Or is this just wishful thinking?

Christine

Thanks for clarifying - now I get it! I actually just finished ordering the new filter.

Today, ammonia is at 0 and so are nitrites. I noticed that the fish with the burns is "sleeping" a lot more. He is still very inticed by the smell of food and is still eating but tends to return to one particular spot where he then sits at the bottom. Not all day but a lot more than he used to. I imagine that this could be due to the fact that he is healing? Comparing to humans who also tend to need more rest after any sort of trauma? Or is this just wishful thinking?


Ok it is now later in the afternoon and I can definitely say that this fish has spent the majority of the day hovering at the bottom of the tank. As I mentioned in a previous post, it is as if he is in a very deep sleep and barely opens and closes his mouth - I find myself always on the alert because I think he is dead. My other fish keeps sitting close to him often nudging him, getting him to move a little. Is this all normal considering his burns?

Christine

Thanks for clarifying - now I get it! I actually just finished ordering the new filter.

Today, ammonia is at 0 and so are nitrites. I noticed that the fish with the burns is "sleeping" a lot more. He is still very inticed by the smell of food and is still eating but tends to return to one particular spot where he then sits at the bottom. Not all day but a lot more than he used to. I imagine that this could be due to the fact that he is healing? Comparing to humans who also tend to need more rest after any sort of trauma? Or is this just wishful thinking?


Ok it is now later in the afternoon and I can definitely say that this fish has spent the majority of the day hovering at the bottom of the tank. As I mentioned in a previous post, it is as if he is in a very deep sleep and barely opens and closes his mouth - I find myself always on the alert because I think he is dead. My other fish keeps sitting close to him often nudging him, getting him to move a little. Is this all normal considering his burns?

Christine


Ok it is now an hour since writing the above and my fish continues to hover at the bottom of the tank. If it wasn't for his eyes moving I would honestly think I lost him! His tail seems to be hanging to one side and he barely opens and closes his mouth - my other fish has been acting strangely -as I mentioned above he has been beside my sick fish most of the day and constantly gently nudges him - when the fish doesn't respond he swims away quickly only to return to his side again. I checked the water (see above) and all was ok. Please help me find a way to help my fish!

Are his fins clamped close to his body while he is bottom sitting?


If his fins are not clamped, he is not stressed and is just " resting his bones".... Probably in a healing state of rest, you know?


Try not to worry. Things have been kind of hectic for them recently. Allow them a little time to return to their normal routines and they ver well should do just that.



Paul

Just came up from checking and no clamped fins!

Poor little guy - I'll let him rest his bones while I relax mine!

It's kinda sweet that my other fish won't leave his side.

Thanks Paul.

Yep, goldfish are actually very social animals. They lik to be in schools and actually form bonds with particular members of the school.

I saw a program about amazing animals once where a goldfish that was raised in a tiny little bowl and wound up being stunted and deformed. He grew is the shape of a "C" because the bowl (actually a small brandy snifter) was so small. Anyway, some savior saw him in some shop overseas and decided to buy the fish and give it a good home. She brought the fish home to her tank of goldies and let him go in it. Well, she quickly realized that he was so deformed that he could not swim like a normal fish would and was having REAL problems finding food. He would flip his fins a bit and just spiral, uncontrollably while bumpng along the bottom. Well, one of the fantails in the tank took a special liking to the deformed newbie. It stuck by the newbies side through thick and thin. At mealtime, the fantail would swim over to the deformed one and actually push him up to the surface to get food. It would do this before it would even feed itself!!!! Evidently, the fantail knew exactly why the deformed one wasn't eating and he made sure it didn't go without....


Hows that for a happy ending, huh?

Awwwwwwwwwww........that definitely is a wonderful story which I will pass on to many of my pet loving friends and family!

To be honest, I have tended to stray away from fish in my life (had just about every other pet ) because I felt (ignorantly) that it would be hard to bond with them - that they would probably lack the traits/emotions that I had found in so many cats, dogs, birds etc.

Through all these experiences I learned that humans are incredibly ignorant to think that these creatures don't share our abilty to express their emotions at very deep levels. Actually, although our brains my be larger than most, the animals I have had in my life have lead me to see that they really have their "stuff" together a heck of a lot more than we do!

So to save you from more preaching, I just think it's awesome that I have proven myself wrong about fishies, and that I can add your story and my own personal one to my collection of lessons I have learned!

Thanks!

HELP!

I woke up this morning and my fish was floating, sort of bent in half. He is still breathing but seems to have lost control of his body. His fins are not clamped. I did a 35% water change adding salt but I don't know what else to do. Today of all days I have to work very late but will come home on my lunch if I have to do something to help save him!

Please let me know if there is anything I can do to help him. Checked water yesterday and ammonia was 0 and nitrites as well.

Thank you.

Christine

Can you tell me anything more? Any changes in your routine?


What is the pH of your tankwater? pH of tapwater?


So far, you've done all you can with what we know at this point.......


Post back soon.


Paul

He's gone.

When I got home (just now) he was in the same spot as this morning, but not breathing at all.

Any ideas as to why he died? Tank water is the same as the tap - 7.5-8. I changed the water after I noticed his floating. He's still in the tank - haven't had time to take him out yet. No changes other than not doing large daily water changes. Was testing twice daily for nitrites etc. Everything was ok.


I know I did the best I could but why is it that I can't seem to have them last despite this fact?

How do I care for the last one? Do I keep him alone? Sorry - so many questions.

Thanks.

Christine