Yabbie is correct about what kH and buffers do with your water!

Without getting deeper into the actual chemistry that is involved, the alkalinity will stabilize your pH - the more buffer, the more stable the pH is.
If you are adding pH down and it is not affecting it, it is because you have way too much buffer for a small amount to work. The best way of describing buffer I have found is a car's shocks. The buffer of the water is like a shock on a car - if it is a good shock, when you push down or pull up on the car, it will go back into position with little or no bounce. If you have bad shocks or poor shocks, when you push down or pull up, the car will bounce up and down and up and down. The buffer does this for the pH. Having adequate buffer will make sure that when the pH is pushed up or down, it is immediately brought back to the original level. You have good enough "shocks" in your water that no matter how hard you push up or down, your buffer will still bring your pH back to where it was originally.
Goldfish can live and thrive in a very wide range of pH - they are actually more forgiving of a higher pH than a lower pH in many cases. The most important thing is
consistancy. As long as the pH remains stable, the fish will adjust and do just fine. A constantly changing pH or a pH that bounces is one of the worse, most stressful things you can do in a tank.
You state that you have a gH of over 300, and a kH of 60 or so. Is that after the acid buffer addition? What is your pH before the acid buffer?
I have well water that has a gH of 300+ and a pH of well over 10+. It is amazingly horrid stuff. I used to use RO water for all my fish. But RO water, or water that has been filtered using reverse osmosis, removed nearly all the mineral content in the water, puts the pH at exactly 7.0, also has a kH of zero. It has no buffer at all. The fish need some minerals, and I had to have a buffer, so I found myself adding all kinds of stuff back into the water to "build" it into quality water. It was ridiculous. Instead, I now use a measure of well water with the RO water - the well water adds the minerals and the buffer, and the RO takes the pH down to a reasonable level. I usually run about 7.8 pH.
There are a few things that are better in lower pH - cycling a tank is easier on the fish in lower pH, colors can be affected occasionally by pH, but in general, a steady pH - even a higher one can be just fine.
You can use a combination of RO water (commonly found in grocery store water dispensers or easy to create yourself with a home plumbed RO filter - I have one plumbed into the kitchen sink with a 25 gallon tank in the basement) and your water. Test the water and add it in combination until you get the levels of all the parameters you are looking for. pH does not have to be 7.0-7.5. It can be 8.0 or 8.5 also.