Thank you Gia, mod and Daryl for your help. I'm such a ditz. I didn't even know I was registered on this board. Shame on me! I belong to a great yahoo group and don't look outside of there much.
QUOTE(daryl @ Sep 8 2005, 12:47 PM)
I see a couple of problems and have a little bit of information that might help.
First - nitrate poisoning does occur over a bit of time, but it really takes a great deal of nitrate to "poison" most fish. When we are talking a "great deal" I would say over 100ppm for a while. I have seen readings that come back at 300+. Some fish still do "OK" at those levels. Others do not. Once a fish is "poisoned" they commonly have swim balance problems, sensitivity to nitrates at higher levels (some to as little as 10ppm), and a lowered immunity to every other nasty that may cross through the tank.
Actually, from what I can tell, it must have been in the 800 plus range for some time. When I realized I had a problem with nitrates I had done two 50% water changes and they were finally dropping below 200. I've been doing daily 40% changes and today is the first time they have ever been close to ten. My anachris grows about a foot a month. I thought it was because of the 260w lights (I often just turn on half), but now I know nitrate helped the anachris and the algae that COVERS the anachris.
QUOTE(daryl @ Sep 8 2005, 12:47 PM)
At 10-20ppm nitrate, he is doing just fine in that tank. I expect the anachris is helping a great deal to keep the nitrates under control. 750gph is definately underfiltered for that size tank - he really needs to have at least 800 gph in the tank - I would shoot at more like 1000 to 1200 goh for that tank.
You're kidding!? I thought I was OVERfiltering. I added that canister filter about two months ago to replace an even older less effective internal strange thing that came with the tank. I'm shocked. Maybe just another Emporer 400 hanging off the back? That wouldn't really be noticeable or ugly, but sounds like it might be the extra umph the tank needs.
QUOTE(daryl @ Sep 8 2005, 12:47 PM)
In an 80 gallon tank, having 8 goldfish is pushing the limits, for, as the goldfish get larger, it will take more and more diligence to keep the nitrates under control. He not only has 9 larger goldfish in there, but 16 other waste producers in that tank - making the tank grossly overstocked. It seems he has built a good bio-filter base - one that is capable of processing the large amount of waste those fish create, but the end result is loads of nitrates. Without diligent water changes and loads of plants, he will have problems with nitrate. The readings he gives at this time, however, are not worrisome. Anything under 40ppm is considered good - with only a few exceptions for a few special fish.
I thought I was following the informed rule of 1 adult goldfish per 10 gallons, but I'm learning that the health of the fish still is at high risk with that. I also admittedly never had a pleco grow that long. I was wrong to think that the plecos aren't big waste producers, I'm finding out differently. Hopefully my fish pull through, but if a few don't, I'm definitely not going to keep as much of a bioload in there.
QUOTE(daryl @ Sep 8 2005, 12:47 PM)
That said - what he is describing sounds like a roaring bacterial infection. (with ich involved, potentially). Bacterial infections are often opportunisitc little nasties - they can come in on a new fish - for example the new lionhead that was introduced. The lionhead may be immune to, or strong enough to resist this particular bacteria, but the others in the tank are not. They have succumbed to the infections - leading to the bloody fins, etc. Emergency help is needed in this tank.
First, I would remove the common pleco - a real hazard in a goldfish tank. They will attach to the goldfish when they are sitting quietly at the bottom of the tank, sleeping, and suck on the slime coat. A large pleco can kill an entire tank full of goldfish in one night. This one fish may be the ground zero of the entire problem - for he could open up wounds and such that could lead to infection.
I've been "meaning" to get rid of the pleco because he IS aggressive. He doesn't suck on them that I see, but what makes me think that when I go to bed, he isn't doing damage for 8 hours? I'm taking him to the LFS tonight.
QUOTE(daryl @ Sep 8 2005, 12:47 PM)
Next, he should remove all the non-goldfish in the tank- relocate them to another tank or tub. Every last fish, dainio and pleco and shrimp should be moved. Leave only the goldfish. .
As far as treatment, since I do not know what he has available, I will mention a few of the commoner treatments available. MaracynII is a good staple antibiotic bath treatment that is commonly found in many PetCos and PetSmarts. It may do the trick, or it may help do the trick. Next, I would recommend that he order some MediGold from Goldfish Connection,
http://www.goldfishconnection.com/shop/det...uctId=8&catId=5This is an antibiotic laced food of the highest quality. Rick, at goldfish connection, will ship very swiftly - Dennis should have it within a day or two of ordering it.
I would have him raise the salt level in the tank to .3% for now - if there really is ich in the tank. It will help keep the ich under control - and possibly may conquer it. For the time being, the bacterial infection is far more worrisome and urgent. That and removing the common pleco.
I am sure others will post here soon.
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I just treated the tank with Maracyn to and some ich medicine. I'll find my hydrometer and see what the exact salinity of the water is as well, and bring it to .3%. I'm heading to goldfish connection shortly to check that out. I did feed as normal and everyone was surprisingly active, even the "goner". The medicine tablets are almost dissolved and the nitrates are 10-20, so maybe they were due for an energy rebound.
I've got pics, but not sure if I can post them since I'm "new" to the web site. lol
Thanks for the advice, and if anyone else has something to add, please do!
Dennis