Two months ago a friend gave us an oranda in a bowl as a gift. The fish mesmerised us. We decided to get a proper aquarium fully fitted with pump, filters and lighting, if we could keep the oranda alive for more than a month.
A month later, the oranda was still alive. Therefore, we bought an aquarium and more oranda (10 gallons per fish). Another month passed and the fish were all doing well until two days ago when one of the oranda developed swim bladder disease. The fish was moved to a separate aquarium where it died 24 hous later, despite our efforts.
I am now worried about the other eight fish. They are all swimming toward the top of the aquarium. I have changed the water, treated the water to make it safe, and I am at my wits end.
What could be wrong with these fish?
Thank you.
Full Version: Help!
We'll need some more info to actually make any kind of diagnosis. Try and answer all the questions at the top of the page....you mentioned having 8 other fish? Does that mean you have a 90 gallon aquarium? (you mentioned the 10gallon/fish rule).
It most likely is a water quality issue, but we really need to know the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH readings before really knowing what the issue is. If you don't have water testers, I would recommend picking some up ASAP...or at least taking a sample of water to the petstore and having them test for all the above. Make sure you write down the numbers they give you, and don't let them just assure you its all fine...because they might not really know what they're talking about.
Also, some daily water changes might help (if it turns out to be a water quality thing)...I would recommend maybe starting to change 30% everyday right now. And let us know what the water parameters are.
It most likely is a water quality issue, but we really need to know the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH readings before really knowing what the issue is. If you don't have water testers, I would recommend picking some up ASAP...or at least taking a sample of water to the petstore and having them test for all the above. Make sure you write down the numbers they give you, and don't let them just assure you its all fine...because they might not really know what they're talking about.
Also, some daily water changes might help (if it turns out to be a water quality thing)...I would recommend maybe starting to change 30% everyday right now. And let us know what the water parameters are.
Hey there and welcome to the board!! 
If you could answer the questions in the big red box at the beginning of the section
we can get a better idea of what is going on in your tank.
If you could answer the questions in the big red box at the beginning of the section
we can get a better idea of what is going on in your tank.
As said by the previous poster this is almost certainly a water quality problem. I expect your tank is still cycling so nitrite and ammonia levels could be at toxic levels, poisoning your fish.
You need to test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrates a.s.a.p. It is a good investment to buy the kits yourself as they are very useful to have around but most aquatic stores will test it for you for a small charge.
Start the daily water changes of 30%, making sure you temperature match the water and add dechlorinator. I'd also invest in a bubble wall or airstone to put in your tank as this might perk your fish up too. If you do this I cna almost guarantee that your fish will look much happier.
You need to test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrates a.s.a.p. It is a good investment to buy the kits yourself as they are very useful to have around but most aquatic stores will test it for you for a small charge.
Start the daily water changes of 30%, making sure you temperature match the water and add dechlorinator. I'd also invest in a bubble wall or airstone to put in your tank as this might perk your fish up too. If you do this I cna almost guarantee that your fish will look much happier.
Thank you for the quick response. I am based in the Mediterranean island of Cyprus and fish medication/ test kits are hard to come by. My pet store gave me a water conditioner for the treatment of tap water. I have added this to the aquarium. The conditioner treats ammonia. Other than that, I did a partial water change yesterday. But have had no luck finding water test kits. I will look for the test kits tomorrow and report back with the answers to the questions at the beginning of the section.
Separately, how do you feed fish frozen peas. I understand they need to thaw. Then what? Do you mash them up, boil them, or drop them in whole. Some of my fish are just one inch in length, excluding the tail.
Thank you.
Separately, how do you feed fish frozen peas. I understand they need to thaw. Then what? Do you mash them up, boil them, or drop them in whole. Some of my fish are just one inch in length, excluding the tail.
Thank you.
To feed peas, you can cook them a bit, take off the outer shell, and just squish them. You can break them apart for your smaller fish.
Just a short note to let you know that water test kits are not available where I live. Therefore, I must order some online from the US with delivery within the next week. Is there anything I can do in the meantime to ensure as healthy a water as possible?
On the brighter side, I discovered quite by chance that the air pump was under-performing due to a clogged carbon filter. This was replaced today alongside a partial water change plus the addition of a water conditioner to make tap water safe.
The fish are back to their normal active selves except for one.
This tiny fish has been less social with the other fishes. It is not floating on top nor is it stuck at the bottom. However, it does appear to have quitened down a fair bit and keeps opening its mouth wide. What could be wrong?
Thank you.
On the brighter side, I discovered quite by chance that the air pump was under-performing due to a clogged carbon filter. This was replaced today alongside a partial water change plus the addition of a water conditioner to make tap water safe.
The fish are back to their normal active selves except for one.
This tiny fish has been less social with the other fishes. It is not floating on top nor is it stuck at the bottom. However, it does appear to have quitened down a fair bit and keeps opening its mouth wide. What could be wrong?
Thank you.
I would say that your issue is probably one of water quality, and therefore daily water changes will probably ease the stress on your fish considerably. Smaller fish tend to be more affected by toxic water, and that is probably why he's still not back to his normal self. Try changing at least 30% a day right now, and if you want, you can add some salt to the tank (any salt WITHOUT anti-caking agents)...which will help neutralize the effects of toxic water. I would recommend adding a teaspoon per gallon every 12 hrs...fo 3 treatments. That means after 36 hrs you'll have a 3 tsp/gallon concentration. Salt is also known to kill a lot of parasites...which is another possibility as to why your fish are having problems breathing.
Yes, daily water changes of 30% are the way to go until you get your test kits. Then you will need to continue these changes until your ammonia and nitrites are at 0 and your nitrates are under 40 (preferably under 20).
OK. I will continue with the water changes.
Should I move the little sick fish into a new tank and add the salt only for his benefit or should I add the salt for the entire fish population in the big aquarium? Thank you.
Should I move the little sick fish into a new tank and add the salt only for his benefit or should I add the salt for the entire fish population in the big aquarium? Thank you.
I'd add it to the whole tank as it will benefit all your fish. Make sure you use proper aquarium salt and make sure that you add it gradually as described by the previous poster. Remember too that as you are doing daily water changes you will need to add the relevant amount of salt to each gallon of new water you are adding (only enough for the new water and not for the whole tank again!).
Good luck and let us know how you're all getting on.
Good luck and let us know how you're all getting on.
I use SeaSalt, which I can buy at the grocery store for a couple bucks. It specifically says that it is pure salt, and contains no additives (no anti caking agents)....but to be on the safe side, you can always just buy salt from the petstore.
I have been doing the daily, partial water changes, as recommended, and added an airstone. All the fishes - including the sick little one - are once again swimming about happily, looking healthy and incuisitive.
However, once the test kit arrives, should the water prove unsuitable after the daily, partial
water changes, how can I bring the levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH to the correct levels? Do you add something to the water or simply keep on doing partial water changes and testing? How does one dechlorinate? Should I use some tap safe conditioners? And, if yes, should I keep the carbon filter in when adding conditioners and/or medication?
I understand that darting, bloody streaks and dark red gills indicate ammonia poisoning. If the fish is 3" tip-to-tip, how can I look at the gills without hurting the fish?
In addition, I can see a small area of red in the tails of our two 5" yellow heads. It looks like a long thin vein running from the base of the tail to the tip of each side of the fintail. They were like this when we got them a month ago. Being new to goldfish, I did not spot this when we bought them. Having now read through a fair bit of kokosgoldfhish, should I be worried about fin rot? Other than the presence of the red vein in the tails, the fish are active and eating well.
Lastly, for the last two days I have been feeding our fish mashed, thawed, frozen peas. Their bodies look much more streamlined. I intend to give them their normal flake food (only one available here) after three days of peas. Is this advisable? Should I also order online some brine shrimp or bloodworms to supplement their diets?
I apologise for the long text. Thank you very much for all your assistance.
However, once the test kit arrives, should the water prove unsuitable after the daily, partial
water changes, how can I bring the levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH to the correct levels? Do you add something to the water or simply keep on doing partial water changes and testing? How does one dechlorinate? Should I use some tap safe conditioners? And, if yes, should I keep the carbon filter in when adding conditioners and/or medication?
I understand that darting, bloody streaks and dark red gills indicate ammonia poisoning. If the fish is 3" tip-to-tip, how can I look at the gills without hurting the fish?
In addition, I can see a small area of red in the tails of our two 5" yellow heads. It looks like a long thin vein running from the base of the tail to the tip of each side of the fintail. They were like this when we got them a month ago. Being new to goldfish, I did not spot this when we bought them. Having now read through a fair bit of kokosgoldfhish, should I be worried about fin rot? Other than the presence of the red vein in the tails, the fish are active and eating well.
Lastly, for the last two days I have been feeding our fish mashed, thawed, frozen peas. Their bodies look much more streamlined. I intend to give them their normal flake food (only one available here) after three days of peas. Is this advisable? Should I also order online some brine shrimp or bloodworms to supplement their diets?
I apologise for the long text. Thank you very much for all your assistance.
I'm glad you're fish are perking up, well done!
In answer to your questions -
Should your water quality be off when you get your tests, then the safest and kindest (to the fish) way to correct it is to continue daily water changes of 30% with a weekly gravel vacuum. You can buy all sorts of products which claim to remove everything but they cause more upset to the fish in the long term and often mess up readings on your test kits etc. Also when you stop using them your problems will return. Just keep doing the daily changes until ammonia and nitrite are 0, and nitrates are preferably under 20. You will notice a steady improvement in your fish during this time. As for Ph, as long as it remains constant and doesn't fluctuaue then whatever it is will be fine. Goldfish are able to adapt to this easily and it wont affect them at all. There is only a problem if it keeps changing as this can be lethal to the fish so don't worry about that for the time being.
You can dechlorinate your water by adding a water conditioner to it at water changes (I use Aquasafe but there are mnay others available). Or you can simply let the water stand for 24 hours but when doing big changes this isn't practicalas you'd need loads of buckets and leaving them laying around would cause a problem. Also, most water conditioners remove chloramines (some water companies add this to the supply) as well as chlorine so they are the better option. Not dechlorinating damages fishes gills so it is imporotant.
When adding water conditioners it is not necessary to remove the carbon (I usually add the water conditioner to my buckets of water before pouring them into my tanks), but with any other medications it is necessary to remove the carbon as it will draw the medication out of the water.
Yes darting, streaks and dark gills can indicate ammonia/nitrite poisoning. I'd get your water quality perfect, and let the fish recover for a week or two then if you still ahve problems, have a look at the gills. The good water should be enough to rectify all your problems. If you do need to check the gills then you need to catch your fish (in your hand is best as nets damage their scales, slimecoat etc), and gently but firmly hold it so that it's head is just in the water as this limits struggling. Then slide your thumbnail gently under the gill and pull it very gently upwards and peak underneath.
I wouldn't worry about the red veins unless they become dramatically worse. They could have been in poor wate before you got them which caused this, and they will
take a long time to heal and go away.
Sometimes fish get red veins when they have finrot, but you would also notice a whitening around the edge of the fins and fraying or splits and an uneven edge. Perfect water quality is often enough to stop finrot in it's tracks so get your water quality perfect then if it gets no worse leave it to heal on it's own. Only consider treating if it gets worse than it is now.
Peas are a great cure for constipation and it is best to feed them twice a week all the time as a preventative measure. Flakes don't generally hold much nutritional value. High protein sInking pellets are better if you can get hold of some online. Progold form www.goldfishconnection.com is excellent but hikari also make good ones (I think they are called Lionhead pellets). You might be able to order them online. As well as flakes .pellets, goldies need other variety to ensure they get all the nutrients they need. Blood worms and brineshrimp are excellent (frozen or live) and if you could feed these a couple of time s aweek it would be great. They also love most fruits and vegetables as a treat. Peas as you know are a favourite, as are romaine lettuce (blanched then hung on a veggie clip or weighted down with a rock), swede, oranges (cut a slice and float it on the top of the tnka and watch them go mad!), grapes, skinned and chopped and almost anything else. You'll get to know your fishes individual tastes. If you are feeding hard fruit or veg, then lightly cook it first, same for cabbage as it softens it slightly. use common sense and peel veg if they have skin etc.
Oh and by the way, always soak pellets or flakes in a little tank water for a few minutes prior to feeding as this helps avoid swimbladder problems developing at a later stage. It also aids digestion.
Good luck!
In answer to your questions -
Should your water quality be off when you get your tests, then the safest and kindest (to the fish) way to correct it is to continue daily water changes of 30% with a weekly gravel vacuum. You can buy all sorts of products which claim to remove everything but they cause more upset to the fish in the long term and often mess up readings on your test kits etc. Also when you stop using them your problems will return. Just keep doing the daily changes until ammonia and nitrite are 0, and nitrates are preferably under 20. You will notice a steady improvement in your fish during this time. As for Ph, as long as it remains constant and doesn't fluctuaue then whatever it is will be fine. Goldfish are able to adapt to this easily and it wont affect them at all. There is only a problem if it keeps changing as this can be lethal to the fish so don't worry about that for the time being.
You can dechlorinate your water by adding a water conditioner to it at water changes (I use Aquasafe but there are mnay others available). Or you can simply let the water stand for 24 hours but when doing big changes this isn't practicalas you'd need loads of buckets and leaving them laying around would cause a problem. Also, most water conditioners remove chloramines (some water companies add this to the supply) as well as chlorine so they are the better option. Not dechlorinating damages fishes gills so it is imporotant.
When adding water conditioners it is not necessary to remove the carbon (I usually add the water conditioner to my buckets of water before pouring them into my tanks), but with any other medications it is necessary to remove the carbon as it will draw the medication out of the water.
Yes darting, streaks and dark gills can indicate ammonia/nitrite poisoning. I'd get your water quality perfect, and let the fish recover for a week or two then if you still ahve problems, have a look at the gills. The good water should be enough to rectify all your problems. If you do need to check the gills then you need to catch your fish (in your hand is best as nets damage their scales, slimecoat etc), and gently but firmly hold it so that it's head is just in the water as this limits struggling. Then slide your thumbnail gently under the gill and pull it very gently upwards and peak underneath.
I wouldn't worry about the red veins unless they become dramatically worse. They could have been in poor wate before you got them which caused this, and they will
take a long time to heal and go away.
Sometimes fish get red veins when they have finrot, but you would also notice a whitening around the edge of the fins and fraying or splits and an uneven edge. Perfect water quality is often enough to stop finrot in it's tracks so get your water quality perfect then if it gets no worse leave it to heal on it's own. Only consider treating if it gets worse than it is now.
Peas are a great cure for constipation and it is best to feed them twice a week all the time as a preventative measure. Flakes don't generally hold much nutritional value. High protein sInking pellets are better if you can get hold of some online. Progold form www.goldfishconnection.com is excellent but hikari also make good ones (I think they are called Lionhead pellets). You might be able to order them online. As well as flakes .pellets, goldies need other variety to ensure they get all the nutrients they need. Blood worms and brineshrimp are excellent (frozen or live) and if you could feed these a couple of time s aweek it would be great. They also love most fruits and vegetables as a treat. Peas as you know are a favourite, as are romaine lettuce (blanched then hung on a veggie clip or weighted down with a rock), swede, oranges (cut a slice and float it on the top of the tnka and watch them go mad!), grapes, skinned and chopped and almost anything else. You'll get to know your fishes individual tastes. If you are feeding hard fruit or veg, then lightly cook it first, same for cabbage as it softens it slightly. use common sense and peel veg if they have skin etc.
Oh and by the way, always soak pellets or flakes in a little tank water for a few minutes prior to feeding as this helps avoid swimbladder problems developing at a later stage. It also aids digestion.
Good luck!
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