QUOTE(daryl @ May 18 2005, 06:57 PM)
The links I have posted here may help you understand a bit more about the cycle, but, yes - it does take time. It can take up to 8 weeks or more at times. At 68 degrees, it is going to take a whole lot longer.
Ahhh. I was thinking that in an 8 week cycle I should see
some nitrite production by 2½ weeks in.
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I am a bit curious why you need a chiller - I have had a few people that need a way to bring the temperature down if it regularly goes to 80+F.
I got the chiller because the tank is in my daughter's room upstairs. It can get warm up there, and in the summer unless it's stifling we like fresh air rather than air conditioning. That means that even this early in the year (in Pennsylvania) his tank water was up past 80º. So I checked around and saw where a lot of people recommended temps in the high 60s or low 70s, so I settled on 68º as a good temp and bought the chiller. Plus, PA weather is such that depending on the day, and whether the window was open or not, it would range from low 70s to low 80s on any given day, and I thought the severe temp changes were bad, so again, the chiller lets me keep him right where I set it.
I didn't realize a cool tank would take longer to cycle. Maybe I will set his chiller up a couple degrees to speed things along. I think the chiller was a good idea, just maybe have it set a little too cool is all.
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There is a product called BioSpira which will give you a quick cycle - within a week or so . . .
I had heard that a tank with a quick cycle like that is unstable. I had wanted to develop my own cycle slowly, and was set for an 8 week cycle, but again, thought I should see something after 2½ weeks.
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The Aquaclear Filter should help a lot - if it filters more than 100 gallons per hour, use the extra amount.
The Aquaclear is a power head only, not a filter. You can buy a filter attachment for it, but I'm using it to get good circulation that I just wasn't getting from an air stone and air pump. It has aeration on it so the surface is well agitated, but it's serving merely to pull the water through the UGF.
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I think I would feel better for Dennis if you changed about 20% of his water every day to keep the ammonia lower than 1-2 ppm.
That's where I was confused. I don't want his ammonia too high, though again the low temps help me feel a little better about him breathing right, but I also don't want to clean the ammonia out so much as to but the clamps on the cycling process. His tank rarely hits 2 ppm, and when it does I usually change 20%, then later that day another 20%. If I test it and it's around 1 ppm on change days, I only do 20%. And I try to only change every other day unless I test and the ammonia is high. So I have been trying to strike a balance between upsetting Dennis' whole little world by changing water all the time, while at the same time keeping ammonia in there to cycle, and keeping ammonia low to not hurt him.
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Perhaps you will be able to post pictures of Dennis and his girl soon - then we can all enjoy them!
I have one I love that I'll need to post. It's a picture of her and Dennis I took one morning. She got up, woke me up, and told me she wanted to read a story to Dennis. She in her jammies with "bed head" reading one of her little counting books to her "buddy fish".
QUOTE(Phreno)
Also, it may be in your best interest to get a different filter, under gravel ones can clog. I reccomend the penguin 100 mini bio-wheel. You can get it for about 18 dollars on the internet or at your local fish store.
I wish there was one answer. I have seen on other web sites people talking about how great a UGF is as a bio filter. Now here I'm hearing the opposite. I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm saying I'm confused.